Lafayette in America in 1824 and 1825, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Or, Journal of a Voyage to the United States (2024)

Be it remembered, That on the sixth day of November, in the fifty-fourthyear of the independence of the United States of America, A. D.1829, Carey and Lea, of the said district, have deposited in this Officethe title of a Book, the right whereof they claim as proprietors in thewords following, to wit:

“Lafayette in America in 1824 and 1825; or Journal of a Voyage tothe United States: by A. Levasseur, Secretary to General Lafayetteduring his journey. Translated by John D. Godman, M. D.”

In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, entitled“An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies ofmaps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copiesduring the times therein mentioned.” And also to the act, entitled, “Anact supplementary to an act, entitled, ‘An act for the encouragementof learning, by securing the copies of the maps, charts, and books, to theauthors and proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned,’and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving,and etching historical and other prints.”

Maryland Cattle Show—Indian Deputation introduced to Gen. Lafayette—President’sMessage—Extraordinary honours paid to the Nation’sGuest—National recompense presented by Congress.

On arriving at Washington, we went to dine with thepresident; and after reposing for twenty-four hours, we setout for Baltimore, where we were invited as members ofthe Agricultural Society to the annual meeting of the farmersof Maryland. The object of this society is the distributionof rewards and encouragements to all, who in thecourse of the year have made improvements in agriculture,or the arts of domestic utility. The different products areexhibited, without the names of their owners, and examinedby a committee, upon whose report the society awardsthe prizes. The show appeared to be rich in products ofevery description. A great number of horses, cows, andsheep, remarkable for their beauty of form, proved howcareful the Maryland farmers are in improving their stock.Models of agricultural implements, linen, cotton, canvassand woollen cloths, wines and grain, so arranged, as to beopen to public examination, attested the spirit of investigationand improvement which pervades the industriousclass of this rich state. General Harper opened the meetingby a very instructive discourse upon the progress andactual condition of agriculture in Maryland, and GeneralLafayette was charged with the distribution of the premiums.After these were delivered, the farmers were arrangedin two lines, and General Lafayette passed betweenthem, shaking hands with every one. We then gaily seatedourselves at table, where numerous toasts were drank,“to the nation’s guest,” “the farmer of La Grange,” &c.To these tributes of respect, the general replied by thefollowing toast: “The seed of American liberty transplantedto other shores, smothered hitherto, but not destroyed10by European weeds; may it germinate and grow afresh,more pure and vigorous, and cover the soil of both hemispheres.”

Before leaving Baltimore we visited several farms in thevicinity, at each of which General Lafayette took accuratenotes of various improvements, whose application hethought would prove useful on his farm at La Grange. Heespecially admired a fine steam boiler,[1] at General Harper’sfarm, by which numerous flocks could be more abundantlyand economically fed. Mr. Patterson presented hima young bull and two heifers of rare elegance of form, saidto be of the English Devonshire breed. We also receivedfrom several other agriculturists, wild turkeys for the improvementof the European breed, pigs of singular size,figure, &c.; in short, every one wished to present some ofhis produce to the farmer of La Grange, who acceptedthem the more gratefully, because he saw in each of thesepresents means of rendering service to French agriculture.

On returning to Washington, we found the city muchmore animated than before our departure. The numberof strangers and citizens from all parts of the Union, whichusually assemble at the opening of congress, were collectedthis season in much greater crowds, attracted by the wishof being there at the same time with the nation’s guest,and to witness the inauguration of the recently electedpresident. The European ambassadors and ministers ofthe new states of South America, had returned to theirposts, which they left during the fine season; Indian deputationshad also arrived from the most distant forests, tomake known the wants of their brethren to the Americangovernment. These deputations came to visit GeneralLafayette the morning after our return; they were introducedby Major Pitchlynn, their interpreter; at their headwere two chiefs whom we had previously seen at Mr.Jefferson’s table during our visit to Monticello. I recognisedthem by their ears cut into long straps and garnishedwith long plates of lead. One of them, named Mushulatubbee,made an address to General Lafayette in the Indianlanguage; after he had concluded, Pushalamata, the first of11their chiefs, also addressed the general, congratulating himon his return to the land for which he had fought and bledin his youth, &c. This chief expired a few days afterwards:feeling the approach of death, he called his companionsaround him, requested them to dress him in hisest ornaments and give him his arms, that he might dielike a man. He expressed a desire that the Americanswould bury him with the honours of war, and fire a saluteover his grave, which was promised. He then conversedwith his friends until he gently expired. He was very oldand of the Choctaw tribe, as well as part of those whocame to see General Lafayette; the rest were Chickasaws.

On his return to Washington, the general found messagesfrom all the southern and western states, expressingthe desire and hope of the people of those parts of the Unionthat he would visit them: the representatives of the differentstates who had come to sit in congress, daily came to seehim, and spoke with enthusiasm of the preparations whichtheir fellow citizens were already making to receive thenation’s guest.

He felt that it would be difficult, not to say impossible,to refuse invitations so feelingly and honourably expressed,and determined to accept them all; but on account of theadvanced state of the season he could not re-commencehis journey till the end of the winter; during part of whichhe would remain at Washington, where he could attend tothe debates in congress. As these debates would not beginfor some days, he determined to profit by the intervening timeto visit all the members of General Washington’s family,residing in the vicinity of the capital. We first went tothe house of one of his nieces, Mrs. Lewis, at Wood Lawn;this lady was brought up at Mount Vernon with Mr.George Lafayette, and time had not destroyed the fraternalfriendship existing between them. She received us withgreat kindness, as did her husband and family. We remainedfour days at Wood Lawn, receiving the most delicateattentions, and departed charged with little presents,of great value to us, because they were almost all objectswhich had belonged to the hero of liberty, the immortalWashington.

As Wood Lawn is but a division of the ancient property ofMount Vernon, we had but a short walk to Judge Bushrod12Washington’s. We then revisited Arlington, the residenceof Mr. Custis, of whom I have heretofore had occasion tospeak. His house, built according to reduced plans of thetemple of Theseus, stands upon one of the most beautifulsituations imaginable; from the portico the eye takes in, atone view, the majestic course of the Potomac, the commercialmovements of Georgetown, the rising city ofWashington, and far beyond the vast horizon, beneathwhich lie the fertile plains of Maryland. If Mr. Custis, insteadof the great number of indolent slaves, who devourhis produce, and leave his roads in a bad condition, wouldemploy a dozen well paid free labourers, I am sure that hewould soon triple his revenues, and have one of the mostdelightful properties, not only of the District of Columbia,but of all Virginia.

While General Lafayette was visiting his friends, congresscommenced its session on the 6th of December, accordingto custom. The president’s message was receivedby both houses on the 7th at noon; and, on our return toWashington on the 8th, we read this political paper, alwaysso important in the United States, but still more interestingthis year, because it was the last great administrative actof an honest man; and its influence, perhaps, saved the republicsof South America, I do not say from the intrigues,but at least from the attacks of Europe. Those who wishto learn how, in a legitimate government, the chief magistrateelected by the people renders an account of the sacredtrust they have confided to him, should read Mr.Monroe’s message of the 6th December, 1824. They willthere see with what candour this wise magistrate informscongress of all the acts of his administration, with whatsimplicity he speaks of his treaties with all the kings ofEurope; with what frankness he exposes the wants, the resources,the situation of the state; but also with whatcourage and dignity he declares to the whole world thatthe republic, faithful to its engagements, will regard as apersonal offence all attacks directed against its allies, andwill always repel, with its whole power, the unjust principleof foreign interference in the affairs of the nation.

After the reading of the message committees were immediatelyappointed by both houses upon the various articlesit contained. The committee charged with what13related to the general, was requested to report with aslittle delay as possible. Other committees were appointedto arrange the ceremonial of the general’s public receptionby congress; and, on the 8th of December the joint committeereported by Mr. Barbour to the house of representatives,that, in order to avoid difficulties, each house of congressshould separately receive the nation’s guest. Thesenate then determined upon the manner in which GeneralLafayette should be received, and the committee was authorizedto act as intermediary to the senate and him.

On the 9th Mr. Mitchell, in the name of the committees,proposed resolutions, which were unanimously adopted,that General Lafayette should be publicly gratulated bythe house of representatives on account of his acceptingthe invitation of congress, and assured of the profound respectfelt for his eminent services during the revolution, aswell as of the pleasure caused by his return, after so longan absence, to the theatre of his exploits.

As soon as these resolutions were made known, thetroops wished to parade, to give the reception of the nation’sguest by congress all the brilliance of military pomp;but General Lafayette, having learned their intention, requestedthem to relinquish it, as he considered it inconsistent,both with his character and situation, to appear beforethe national representatives surrounded by the pomp ofarms; the troops, always delighted to do what was mostagreeable to him, immediately laid aside their project. Athalf past twelve we went in carriages with the committeeof the senate to the capitol; at ten o’clock precisely thedoors of the senate were thrown open, and General Lafayettewas led into the midst of the assembly by Mr.Barbour, president of the committee. On arriving at thecentre of the hall, Mr. Barbour said, in a loud voice, “Weintroduce General Lafayette to the senate of the UnitedStates.” The senators standing uncovered received thisannunciation with the most profound silence. The committeethen conducted the general to a seat on the rightof Mr. Gailliard, president of the senate; a motion to adjournwas made immediately after, that each senator mightindividually pay his respects to the general. This motionbeing carried, the senators successively left their seats, and14approached him for that purpose. Thus terminated thebusiness of the day.

The next morning, the general was again conducted tothe capitol, by a deputation of twenty-four members ofthe house of representatives. The procession consisted ofmerely twelve coaches, but without escort, pomp, or decorations;our progress through the city was slow and silent.At the sight of the first coach, which contained the general,the citizens halted, removed their hats, but uttered noexclamation. This silence, this simplicity, was really impressive.We were conducted into the committee roomuntil the session commenced; the public galleries werecrowded from early in the morning; the seats were occupiedby foreign diplomatists and most distinguished personsof the city. That part of the hall which is not occupiedby the representatives, was, on this occasion, alone filledby ladies.

When the members had taken their seats, Mr. Condictproposed that the senate should be invited to attend, andthe motion was carried by a large majority. The speakerthen requested the members to pass to the right, in orderto give place to the senators. The senate then enteredand took their seats; a few minutes after, two memberscame for Mr. George Lafayette and myself, and conductedus into the hall, to a seat occupied by the public officers.A signal being then given, the doors were thrown open,and General Lafayette entered between Messrs. Mitchelland Livingston, followed by the rest of the deputation:the whole assembly arose and stood uncovered in silence.When the general reached the centre of the hall, thespeaker, Mr. Clay, thus addressed him:

“General—The house of representatives of the UnitedStates, impelled alike by its own feelings, and by those ofthe whole American people, could not have assigned to mea more gratifying duty, than that of presenting to you cordialcongratulations upon the occasion of your recentarrival in the United States, in compliance with the wishesof congress, and to assure you of the very high satisfactionwhich your presence affords on this early theatre of yourglory and renown. Although but few of the members whocompose this body shared with you in the war of our revolution,all have, from impartial history or from faithful15tradition, a knowledge of the perils, the sufferings, and thesacrifices which you voluntarily encountered, and the signalservices, in America and in Europe, which you performedfor an infant, a distant, and an alien people; and all feeland own the very great extent of the obligations underwhich you have placed our country. But the relations inwhich you have ever stood to the United States, interestingand important as they have been, do not constitute theonly motive of the respect and admiration which the houseof representatives entertain for you. Your consistency ofcharacter, your uniform devotion to regulated liberty, in allthe vicissitudes of a long and arduous life, also commandsits admiration. During all the recent convulsions ofEurope, amidst, as after the dispersion of, every politicalstorm, the people of the United States have beheld you,true to your old principles, firm and erect, cheering andanimating, with your well known voice, the votaries ofliberty, its faithful and fearless champion, ready to shedthe last drop of that blood which here you so freely andnobly spilt, in the same holy cause.

“The vain wish has been sometimes indulged, that Providencewould allow the patriot, after death, to return tohis country, and to contemplate the intermediate changeswhich had taken place—to view the forests felled, thecities built, the mountains levelled, the canals cut, thehighways constructed, the progress of the arts, the advancementof learning, and the increase of population—General,your present visit to the United States is a realization ofthe consoling object of that wish. You are in the midstof posterity. Every where, you must have been struckwith the great changes, physical and moral, which haveoccurred since you left us. Even this very city, bearinga venerated name, alike endeared to you and to us, hassince emerged from the forest which then covered its site.In one respect, you behold us unaltered, and this is in thesentiment of continued devotion to liberty, and of ardentaffection and profound gratitude to your departed friend,the father of his country, and to you, and to your illustriousassociates in the field and in the cabinet, for the multipliedblessings which surround us, and for the very privilegeof addressing you, which I now exercise. This sentiment,now fondly cherished by more than ten millions of16people, will be transmitted, with unabated vigour, downthe tide of time, through the countless millions who aredestined to inhabit this continent, to the latest posterity.”

The profound emotion experienced by the speaker,which had visibly agitated him throughout his address,rapidly extended to the hearts of the auditors, each ofwhom waited, with benevolent anxiety, for the answerthey expected the general would have ready in writing,for so solemn an occasion. But every one was agreeablysurprised, to see him advance a few steps towards thespeaker, cast upon the assembly looks of feeling and gratitude,and, after a few instants of recollection, deliver, in asonorous voice, distinctly audible throughout the house,the following extempore reply:

“Mr. Speaker and Gentlemen of the House of Representatives—Whilethe people of the United States, and theirhonourable representatives in congress, have deigned tomake choice of me, one of the American veterans, to signify,in his person, their esteem for our joint services, andtheir attachment to the principles for which we have hadthe honour to fight and bleed, I am proud and happy toshare those extraordinary favours with my dear revolutionarycompanions; yet it would be, on my part, uncandidand ungrateful, not to acknowledge my personal share inthose testimonies of kindness, as they excite in my breastemotions which no words are adequate to express.

“My obligations to the United States, sir, far exceedany merit I might claim; they date from the time when Ihave had the happiness to be adopted as a young soldier,a favoured son of America; they have been continued tome during almost a half a century of constant affection andconfidence; and now, sir, thanks to your most gratifyinginvitation, I find myself greeted by a series of welcomes,one hour of which would more than compensate for thepublic exertions and sufferings of a whole life.

“The approbation of the American people, and theirrepresentatives, for my conduct, during the vicissitudes ofthe European revolution, is the highest reward I couldreceive. Well may I stand firm and erect, when, in theirnames, and by you, Mr. Speaker, I am declared to have, inevery instance, been faithful to those American principlesof liberty, equality, and true social order, the devotion to17which, as it has been from my earliest youth, so it shallcontinue to be to my latest breath.

“You have been pleased, Mr. Speaker, to allude to thepeculiar felicity of my situation, when, after so long anabsence, I am called to witness the immense improvements,the admirable communications, the prodigious creations,of which we find an example in this city, whosename itself is a venerated palladium; in a word, all thegrandeur and prosperity of those happy United States,who, at the same time they nobly secure the completeassertion of American independence, reflect, on every partof the world, the light of a far superior political civilization.

“What better pledge can be given, of a persevering,national love of liberty, when these blessings are evidentlythe result of a virtuous resistance to oppression, and institutionsfounded on the rights of man, and the republicanprinciple of self-government?

“No, Mr. Speaker, posterity has not begun for me,since, in the sons of my companions and friends, I find thesame public feelings; and, permit me to add, the samefeelings in my behalf, which I have had the happiness toexperience in their fathers.

“Sir, I have been allowed, forty years ago, before a committeeof a congress of thirteen states, to express the fondwishes of an American heart; on this day, I have thehonour and enjoy the delight, to congratulate the representativesof the Union, so vastly enlarged, on the realizationof those wishes, even beyond every human expectation,and upon the almost infinite prospects we can with certaintyanticipate; permit me, Mr. Speaker and gentlemenof the house of representatives, to join to the expression ofthose sentiments, a tribute of my lively gratitude, affectionatedevotion, and profound respect.”

I will not attempt to depict the deep impression producedby the reply of the general, and by this simple yetmajestic scene on the spectators. I fear that it would beunderstood but by few. As regards my own feelings, Ifrankly avow, that I could not avoid drawing a comparisonbetween this touching picture of national gratitude crowningthe civic virtues, with those pompous ceremonies, inthe midst of which the monarchs of Europe deign to show18themselves, surrounded with the glitter of arms and thesplendour of dress: the latter appeared to me only similarto some brilliant theatrical representation, which it wouldbe gratifying to behold, if we could forget that they butadd to the misery of the people.

After these testimonies of devotion and feeling, hithertounknown in the history of nations, thus tendered by congressto General Lafayette, it might have been supposed,that all marks of national gratitude were exhausted. But,in compliance with the message of the president, and aboveall, with the expression of public opinion which was dailymanifested in the public prints and in private letters addressedfrom all parts of the Union to the members, congressstill conceived that more remained to be done, andhastened to appoint a committee to devise a mode of presentingto General Lafayette a recompense worthy of thenation which tendered it. This committee reported a billon the 20th of December, in which, after detailing the servicesrendered by Lafayette to the American nation, andthe sacrifices he had made in the achievement of its independence,they proposed that the sum of 200,000 dollars,and the fee simple of a tract of land of 24,000 acres, to bechosen in the most fertile part of the United States, shouldbe offered as a compensation and testimony of gratitude.This proposition was received with enthusiasm by thesenate, and it was believed that it would pass without discussion,when at the moment it was about to be sent to thehouse of representatives, a senator observed, “that he hadno objections to make either to the sum about to be voted,or to the services for which it was given; that he yieldedto no one in gratitude and friendship towards General Lafayette,whose virtues and services, he believed, could notbe too highly recompensed; but thought that the proposedmethod was defective; that charged with the administrationof the public revenues, he did not believe that congresswas permitted to dispose of them otherwise than for thepublic service; he thought that each state might claimwith justice, a right to testify its gratitude to Lafayette;finally, that he voted against the consideration of the proposition,to avoid establishing a precedent, the consequencesof which might hereafter be fatal.”

The eloquence of Mr. Hayne easily triumphed over this19opposition, arising from a scrupulous attention and care ofthe public finances, and the bill having been a third timeread, was almost unanimously adopted. Seven votes onlywere in the negative; and it was universally known thateven those who opposed the bill, were among the warmestfriends and partizans of the general. Motives of publicexpediency, and, with some, the habit of opposing everynovel measure of finance, were the only reasons for theircourse of conduct.

The proposition was received with equal warmth andgood will in the house of representatives. As soon as thecommittee presented their report, all other business waspostponed, and the consideration of the bill commenced.The discussion that ensued, as in the senate, fully recognizedthe rights of the general to national gratitude, andonly turned on the legality of the proposed plan. Afterthe third reading the bill was passed by an overwhelmingmajority.

During these discussions in congress, General Lafayette,who was wholly ignorant of their existence, was at Annapolis,whither he had been invited by the legislature ofMaryland. It was not until the day after his return toWashington, that the two committees of the senate and thehouse of representatives waited on him, to acquaint himwith the resolutions of congress.

Mr. Smith, the chairman, presented him the act, and observedthat the congress of the United States, fully appreciatingthe great sacrifices made by the general in thecause of American Independence, had taken that opportunityof repaying a part of the vast debt owed to him by thecountry.

General Lafayette was greatly embarrassed on hearingthis munificence of congress towards him. He was at firsttempted to refuse it, as he thought the proofs of affectionand popular gratitude which he had received from themoment of his arrival in the United States, were a sufficientrecompense for all his services, and he had neverdesired any other. But he nevertheless felt, from themanner in which this offer was made, that he could notrefuse it without offending the American nation, throughits representatives, and he therefore immediately decidedupon accepting it. He replied to the committee with his20usual promptness and feeling, assuring them of the deepgratitude he felt, as an American soldier, and as an adoptedson of the country, for this as well as other marks ofaffection that had been bestowed upon him.

This act of congress was soon spread, by means of thepublic journals, through all parts of the Union, and wasevery where received with unanimous approbation. Somestates even wished to make an addition to these grants ofcongress. Thus, for example, Virginia, New York, andMaryland, were desirous to heap additional favours on theguest of the nation. It required all the determined moderationof the general to repress this excess of gratitude, whichwould have ended in placing at his disposal all the fundsof the United States; for if the states had once engaged inthis struggle of generosity, it is difficult to say where itwould have ended.

Nevertheless, the newspapers, the organs of publicopinion, in applauding these acts of congress, attacked, witha severity which distressed General Lafayette, those fewmembers of the senate and house of representatives, whohad voted against the national donation. These attacks,in fact, were the more unjust; for, as I have already said,the majority of the opponents of the measure were personalfriends of the general, and wholly devoted to his interests;but in voting, not against the proposition, butagainst its form, they remained faithful to a principle theyhad always adopted, of not disposing of the public fundsfor other purposes than those of the public service. Someof them deemed it proper to explain this to the general.“Not only,” said they, “do we partake of the gratitudeand admiration of our fellow citizens towards you for theservices you have rendered us, but we also think that thenation can never repay them, and yet twenty-six of usvoted against the proposition in congress.” “Well,” repliedthe general, in taking them cordially by the hand, “Ican assure you, that if I had had the honour of being yourcolleague, we should have been twenty-seven, not only becauseI partake of the sentiments which determined yourvotes, but also because I think that the American nationhas done too much for me.” This reply soon appearedin all the journals, and, as may be supposed, only addedto the popularity of him who made it.

21I have already observed that during the deliberations ofcongress, General Lafayette had accepted the invitation ofthe legislature of Maryland, who also wished to bestow onhim the honour of a public reception. We left Washingtonon the 16th of December, accompanied by Dr. Kent,Mr. Mitchell, members of the house of representatives fromMaryland, and a detachment of volunteer cavalry. On ourroute, we visited the family and beautiful farm of Capt.Sprigg, ex-governor of Maryland, and arrived at Annapolisin the afternoon. The deputies of the city met the generalat a great distance from it, notwithstanding the badnessof the weather, and the troops had advanced as far as Miller’sHill. Another corps of militia had marched fromNottingham, which is thirty miles from Annapolis. Thestorm had retarded its arrival, but had not damped thezeal of the citizens. At Carrol’s Lane, about two milesfrom the city, the general, notwithstanding the remonstrancesthat were made, descended from the carriage, andwith his head uncovered, returned thanks to the troops forthe affection they testified towards him. “They have exposedthemselves to the severity of the weather on myaccount, and I cannot permit it to deter me from returningthem my thanks,” observed he. At the limits of thedistrict an interesting meeting took place between him andsome soldiers of the revolutionary army, several of whomhad assisted in carrying him from the field of battle atBrandywine, where he had been wounded. Twenty-fourdischarges of cannon, and the display of the national flagon the state house, announced his arrival in the city.

Conducted into the hall of the legislature, which wasfilled with persons of distinction and soldiers of the revolution,he was led to a seat, where he listened to a discoursefrom the mayor in the name of the city. In hisreply, he alluded to the fact, that Annapolis had been thescene of events for ever memorable in the annals of theUnited States; it was within its walls that Washington hadlaid down a power conferred on him by the nation; andthe inhabitants of that city had always been worthy, bytheir patriotism, of being the witnesses and participators ofthis noble act.

The next day, Friday, 17th December, the militia ofthe county, the volunteer battalion of Annapolis, and the22United States artillery were reviewed by him, displayinggreat discipline and soldierly precision in their manœuvres.

The following Monday, he received from the legislatureof the state, a repetition of the same honours bestowed onhim a few days previous by the congress of the UnitedStates. The day terminated by a public dinner, at whichall the senators and representatives were present, and by aball given by the mayor of the city.

Annapolis is a city of about 2500 inhabitants, handsomelysituated on the river Severn, which empties into the ChesapeakeBay. It is the seat of government of the state ofMaryland, but will never become an important place, atleast from its commerce, which is wholly absorbed by theport of Baltimore.

In returning to Washington, we went by Fredericktown,where the general was received with enthusiasm bythe population, and by a great number of his former companionsin arms, among whom he recognized ColonelM‘Pherson, with whom we lodged. At the public banquetgiven him by the town, the table was lighted by a candelabrasupporting an immense quantity of candles, the baseof which was an enormous fragment of a bomb shell usedat the siege of Yorktown.

Fredericktown is, next to Baltimore, the largest city inMaryland. It is situated in the heart of a fertile country,on the west bank of a small stream called the Monocacy.Its population, which does not amount to more than 3000,are generally engaged in manufactures.

CHAPTER II.

Election of the President—Public character of the President—Publicofficers—Congress—Grand public dinner on the 1st of January.

When we landed at New York, in the month of August,the people of the United States were occupied in thechoice of a new political chief. This choice takes place23every four years. It is always accompanied with muchpopular excitement, which may be readily conceived, asit equally interests every individual. Nevertheless, thisexcitement does not occasion any tumults. Since theadoption of the constitution, the nation has at nine differenttimes elected a president, and always without the occurrenceof any serious disturbance. The public prints, it istrue, as organs of the opposing parties, become arsenals inwhich arms of all description and temper may be found,and which are oftentimes made use of in any thing but acourteous manner; but the exaggeration and violence ofthese journals are productive of no evil consequences, andnever excite the people to transgress the laws.

The election of 1824 has, in common with the nine preceding,completely baffled the penetration of Europeanpoliticians, who, with an assurance founded on ignoranceand duplicity, predicted that the constitution of the UnitedStates was about to experience a shock, which it was impossibleit could sustain, and that from the bosom of theturbulent democracy of America, would arise civil warand an overthrow of all civil order. These predictionswere founded on the circ*mstance of the American nationhaving, until the present time, been able to restrict itschoice to a few individuals, rendered dear to their countryby their revolutionary services, whilst now it found itselfobliged to enter on another list, and, consequently, to openthe door to the ambitious and designing.

It was during the height of the excitement produced bythe discussion of the presidential question that GeneralLafayette appeared on the American shores. This event,as if by enchantment, paralyzed all the electoral ardour.The newspapers, which, the evening before, were furiouslycombating for their favourite candidate, now closed theirlong columns on all party disputes, and only gave admissionto the unanimous expression of the public joy andnational gratitude. At the public dinners, instead of caustictoasts, intended to throw ridicule and odium on some potentadversary, none were heard but healths to the guestof the nation, around whom were amicably grouped themost violent of both parties. Finally, for nearly twomonths all the discord and excitement produced by thiselection, which, it was said, would engender the most disastrous24consequences, were forgotten, and nothing wasthought of but Lafayette and the heroes of the revolution.

On the evening of the day in which the president hadreceived a notification that his successor had been appointed,there was a large party at his house. I had alreadybeen present at these parties, which are very striking fromthe numerous and various society there assembled, and bythe amiable simplicity with which Mrs. Monroe and herdaughters receive their guests. But, on this occasion, thecrowd was so considerable that it was almost impossibleto move. All the inhabitants of Washington were attractedby the desire of seeing the president elect and his competitors,who, it was taken for granted, would be present,and who, in fact, were so, with the exception of Mr. Crawford,who was detained at home by illness. After havingmade my bow to Mr. and Mrs. Monroe, to reach whom Ifound considerable difficulty, I looked with impatience forMr. Adams and the other candidates. It appeared to me,that their being thus thrown together would prove extremelyembarrassing to them, and I felt some curiosity tosee how they would conduct themselves on the occasion.On entering one of the side rooms, I perceived Mr. Adams;he was alone in the midst of a large circle which wasformed around him. His countenance was as open andmodest as usual. Every instant persons pressed throughthe crowd to offer him their congratulations, which he receivedwithout embarrassment, and replied to by a cordialshake of the hand. At some distance, in the midst of agroup of ladies, was Mrs. Adams. She appeared to be radiantwith joy; but it was easy to be seen that she wasmore pleased at the personal triumph of her husband thanfor the advantages or pleasures that would result to herself.Whilst I was attentively looking at this interestingscene, a tumultuous movement was heard at the door, anda murmur of satisfaction arose from the whole party; Isoon ascertained the cause, in seeing General Jacksonmake his appearance. Every one pressed forward to meethim, and endeavoured to be the first to salute him. To allthese effusions of friendship he replied with frankness andcordiality. I alternately scrutinized both Mr. Adams andthe general, being curious to see how these two men, whothe morning before were rivals, would now meet. I was not25kept long in expectation. The moment they perceivedeach other, they hastened to meet, taking each other cordiallyby the hand. The congratulations offered by GeneralJackson were open and sincere; Mr. Adams appearedto be deeply moved, and the numerous witnesses could notrestrain the expression of their satisfaction. Mr. Clayarrived an instant afterwards, and the same scene was repeated.This, perhaps, produced less effect than theformer, as Mr. Clay having had fewer chances of success,was supposed to make less effort to maintain his self-command;but it fully demonstrated the wisdom of thenation in its selection of candidates. The generosity ofcharacter manifested by General Jackson entirely satisfiedme of the futility of the menaces of the Pennsylvaniamilitia. Whilst these reflections were passing through mymind, I met in the crowd two officers with whom I haddined at York, and whom I had remarked particularly fortheir zeal and excitement. “Well,” said I, “the greatquestion is decided, and in a manner contrary to yourhopes, what do you intend to do? How soon do you laysiege to the capitol?” They began to laugh. “You recollectour threats, then,” said one of them. “We went,in truth, great lengths, but our opponents disregarded it,and they acted properly; they know us better than wewished them to do. Now that is settled, all we have to dois to obey. We will support Adams as zealously as if hewere our candidate, but, at the same time, shall keep aclose watch on his administration, and according as it isgood or bad, we will defend or attack it. Four years aresoon passed, and the consequences of a bad election areeasily obviated.” “Yes,” said I, “much easier than thatof legitimacy or hereditary succession.” They left me,laughing heartily, and the next day no body spoke of theelection.

When the ardour and zeal of the parties in favour oftheir peculiar candidates are considered, it might be supposedthat the president of the United States was an inexhaustiblesource of benefit to his friends, and that his powerwas such, that he could at will dispense favours, places,and riches. To remove this error it is only necessary toturn to that article of the constitution which fixes the dutiesof the head of the government, and any one will be26convinced that it leaves fewer means of corruption in hishands than are with us bestowed on the lowest prefect.

It will be seen that the constitution, in fixing in a precisemanner the duties and power of the chief magistrate, hasrather kept in view the welfare and interests of the nation,than the gratification of one individual and his family.Hence, the president is placed in such a situation, thatwhatever may be his personal character, it is impossiblefor him to injure the liberty, right, or honour of his fellowcitizens. He does not, like some kings on the old continent,enjoy several millions of revenue, and immense estates.The law only allows him 25,000 dollars as a salary, but itis not by the sumptuousness of his equipages, by the splendourof a numerous guard, or by the number of his courtiers,that he maintains the dignity of his station.

As he cannot entrench himself behind the responsibilityof his ministers, nor protect himself under the infallibilityof his character, or the inviolability of his person, whichthe constitution does not guarantee, the president of theUnited States is obliged to be extremely circ*mspect inall acts of executive power, which are delegated to himalone; and the people are so firmly persuaded, that thefunctions of a chief magistrate are only to be fulfilled byincessant attention and labour, that they would be exceedinglyastonished, and, perhaps, indignant, if the newspaperssometimes announced, that the president had been occupiedon a certain day for two or even for three hours withone of his ministers.

If the difference which exists between the president ofthe United States and the kings of Europe are striking, thatbetween the ministers of that republic and ours is not lessremarkable. A minister of the United States has but 3000dollars salary, no hotel, no furniture nor train of servantspaid by the nation, no sentries at his door, no servants ina ridiculous dress to attend him when he goes in public,no privileges unconnected with his office, but, at the sametime, no responsibility for his actions. Chosen by the president,he is in fact his instrument, and owes him all histime. As he has not under his orders a host of directorsgeneral, chiefs of division, and clerks of all kinds, at highwages, he is obliged himself to put his hand to the wheel,27and truly to earn his salary, which is too small, it is true,to enable him oftentimes to give sumptuous dinners tomembers of congress; but is sufficient, nevertheless, for awise and conscientious man, who well knows that it is onlyby his activity and probity, and not by intrigues and corruption,that he will fulfil the duties of his station, and repaythe confidence reposed in him.

The habits of the American ministers are so simple, anddiffer so little from those of their fellow citizens, that nothing,absolutely nothing, in their exterior serves to markthem in public. During our first visit to Washington,when we wished to return the visits they had had the politenessto pay us, we were several times obliged to ask,not for their hotels, for we should not have been understood,but for their residences, although situated in the samestreet in which we were living. Sometimes, when we hadknocked at the door of their houses, they have themselvesopened them. We have often met them with their portfolios under their arms, returning on foot from their officesto their respective houses, where a modest family repastawaited them. All this, doubtless, would appear verybourgeois with us, but in the United States, where the peoplethink more of a good administration than the luxuryand splendour of its administrators, it is thought natural andproper, and, I believe, with reason.

This extreme simplicity of the ministers extends to allother public officers, and is the true secret of that economyof government we so highly praise, and which, in all probability,we shall never attain.

A senate, and a house of representatives form the legislativepower of the United States, power which emanatesimmediately from the people, and which counterbalancesthe executive power, so that if it should happen that thepeople, in a moment of error, should bestow the presidencyon an incompetent or ambitious candidate, the injuriousinfluence of such a man would be neutralized by that ofcongress.

Congress assembles on the first Monday in the month ofDecember of each year, and continues in session accordingto the importance of the business before it, but rarely beyondthe month of May. From the middle of November,the senators and representatives of the different states begin28to arrive in Washington. Among them there are manywho, to fulfil the duties of their appointment, have beenobliged to traverse hundreds of leagues of uninhabitedforests, and over most perilous roads. On arriving theylodge at a hotel, where they are obliged, in some instances,to sleep in a room with four or five of their colleagues.The table is open to all who reside in the house. It isusually there, after a frugal meal, that those interestingconversations occur, in which most part of the questionslikely to come before congress during the session are amicablydiscussed. When the first Monday in December arrivesthe session opens, and business commences immediately,for all are at their posts. During the whole timeevery day is conscientiously employed by the representativesof the nation in the discussion of the dearest interestsof the people. As soon as the session closes, each memberreturns to his constituents, and finds, in the reception theygive him, the dearest recompense he can hope for, if heshould have fulfilled his duty to their satisfaction.

The first of January was fixed upon by the two houses,for a grand dinner to General Lafayette. The representativesof the people wished to consecrate American hospitality,by seating the guest of the nation at a table at whichthe whole people could be present in them. Mr. Gailliard,president pro tempore of the senate, and Mr. Clay, speakerof the house of representatives, presided at the dinner.Mr. Gailliard had General Lafayette on his left, and Mr.Monroe the president of the United States on his right;who, overlooking on this occasion the rule he had madeof never attending any public dinner, had accepted theinvitation; Mr. Clay had on each side of him, the secretariesof the different departments. Among the guests, wereGeneral Dearborn, minister of the United States to thecourt of Portugal; Generals Scott, Macomb, Jessup, andour worthy countryman Bernard, by whose side I had thehonour to be placed; Commodores Bainbridge, Tingy,Steward and Morris, as well as many other public officersof highest rank. Among the guests, General Lafayette hadthe pleasure of finding some of his old companions in arms.Captain Allyn of the Cadmus, who had recently arrivedfrom France, was also present. The hall was decoratedwith great splendour, and the guests were animated by a29feeling of union, which demonstrated how completelythey considered this ceremony as a family festival.

It is in such assemblies, that the public feeling of a peoplecan be studied, particularly where its representatives,chosen freely, and having no reason to flatter those inpower, or to dissimulate, give a free vent to all their sentiments.After a variety of toasts, highly complimentary tothe general, and to which he replied with great felicity, theentertainment was concluded with a universal wish of theguests that all the American people could have been presentat it.

CHAPTER III.

Departure from Washington—American Feelings—Sea-Lion—Familyof Free Negroes—Raleigh—Fayetteville—North Carolina.

About the first of February, General Lafayette had receivedfrom all the southern and western states such pressinginvitations, that he could no longer hesitate as to whatcourse he should pursue; and immediately we were allactively employed in determining our order of march, andthe means of surmounting the difficulties which every oneassured us, would be very great in a journey of this natureand length. We had, indeed, a distance of more thantwelve hundred leagues to pass over, in less than fourmonths, to enable us to be in Boston on the seventeenth ofJune, where the general had promised to assist at the celebrationof the anniversary of Bunker’s Hill; and a part ofthe country through which we were obliged to travel, wasscarcely inhabited, and the roads, rough and difficult, wereimperfectly laid out.

But thanks to the experience of General Bernard, to theinformation of the post master general (M’Lean,) and tothe assistance of the members of congress who were inWashington, Mr. George Lafayette was enabled to traceout an such an excellent itinerary, that his father had nofear of neglecting in his course any places of importance in30the various states we had to visit, although most of theseplaces were often many miles to the right or left of ourmain line of march; and his time was so exactly proportioned,that, unless prevented by sickness or some seriousaccident, we were to arrive in Boston on the day promised.

We neglected no precaution adapted to aid us in surmountingthe obstacles which, in the opinion of every one,threatened us in the course of this new journey. Thegeneral’s friends could not think without fear of the fatiguesand dangers to which, they said, he was about toexpose himself. Mrs. Eliza Custis, of the Washingtonfamily, pressed him to accept of her commodious and easycarriage. We purchased good saddle-horses to substitutefor the coach on very bad roads; reduced our baggage asmuch as possible, and on the 23d of February, at nineo’clock in the evening embarked upon the Potomac,which we descended to its outlet in the Chesapeake Bay,and thence proceeded to Norfolk, where we landed earlyon the morning of the 25th, after a pleasant passage of twonights and one day. On the day following we went todine at Suffolk, a small village, where they waited for thegeneral with all the eagerness and kindness he had hithertomet with at every step.

Favoured by a good road and pleasant weather, ourmarch was very rapid. A few miles from Norfolk wewere obliged to stop some time before a small, solitary innupon the road, for the purpose of refreshing our horses.We were sitting in our carriage when the landlord presentedhimself, asked to see the general, and eagerly pressedhim to alight for a moment and come into his house.“If,” said he, “you have only five minutes to stay, do notrefuse them, since to me they will be so many minutes ofhappiness.” The general yielded to his entreaty, and wefollowed him into a lower room, where we observed aplainness bordering on poverty, but a remarkable degreeof cleanliness. Welcome Lafayette, was inscribed withcharcoal upon the white wall, enwreathed with boughsfrom the fir trees of the neighbouring wood. Near thefire-place, where pine wood was crackling, stood a smalltable covered with a very clean napkin, and covered withsome decanters containing brandy and whiskey; by theside of a plate covered with glasses was another plate31filled with neatly arranged slices of bread. These modestrefreshments were tendered with a kindness and cordialitywhich greatly enhanced their value. Whilst we were partakingof them the landlord disappeared, but returned amoment after accompanied by his wife, carrying her littleboy, about three or four years of age, whose fresh andplump cheeks evinced the tenderness and care with whichhe had been cherished. The father, after first presentinghis wife, next took his child in his arms, and, having placedone of his little hands in the hand of the general, madehim repeat, with much emphasis, the following: “GeneralLafayette, I thank you for the liberty which you have wonfor my father, for my mother, for myself, and for my country!!”While the child was speaking, the father and mothereyed the general with the most tender regard: theirhearts responded to the words of their boy, and tears theywere unable to suppress, proved that their gratitude wasvivid and profound. Were I to judge from what I myselffelt on witnessing this simple and yet sublime scene, GeneralLafayette must have found this one of the most pleasingmoments of his life. He could not conceal his emotions,but having tenderly embraced the child, took refuge in hiscarriage, bearing with him the blessings of this family,worthy of the freedom they enjoyed.

The same day, shortly before reaching Suffolk, some negroesstopped us with an invitation to enter their cabin,situated on the road side, to see a very extraordinary animal,which they told us was a sea-lion. It was about sevenfeet long, covered with a hairy skin of the colour of thefallow deer, spotted with black: the size of its body nearthe shoulders was about that of a calf, from whence it diminishedgradually till it terminated at the tail in largefins; its head was small, round, and slightly flattened, resemblinga little that of the tiger; its mouth was furnishedwith long, strong and sharp teeth; its extremities werevery short and had the shape of a hand; the fingers wereunited by a membrane capable of great extension, and armedwith very strong and sharp claws. The negroes told usthat in walking along the shores of Elizabeth River atlow water, they perceived this animal upon the sand,where it appeared to have been left by the tide. As soonas it saw these men it moved towards them, but without32any apparent hostile intentions. The negroes, however,ran away at first, whilst it followed them for some time,but at a slow pace, as it is easy to conceive on examiningits short extremities, which appeared better adapted forswimming than walking. After having retreated a hundredsteps, one of the negroes, who was armed with a musket,turned and fired at the animal, which received the chargein the flank, and almost immediately expired.[2]

A few compliments accompanied with some small moneymade these poor negroes very happy, and we left themto go and visit a neighbouring habitation, which was saidto belong to a large family of free blacks. The house wasvery well kept, both externally and internally; I wasstruck with the order and neatness which prevailed, aswell as the fine appearance of the inhabitants, who seemedto enjoy a state of comfort and ease superior to that ofmost of our European peasantry. One of our travellingcompanions, a citizen of Norfolk, assured us that thisfamily had more than doubled the value of their propertysome years, by their intelligence and industry. I invitethose who still persist in believing that the negroes are incapableof providing for themselves in a state of freedom,to visit this family, which, however, is not the only one ofthe kind which could be found in the state of Virginia.

After stopping a few moments among the citizens ofSuffolk, we continued on our route to Murfreesborough,where we were to lodge. Our late arrival had the appearanceof a nocturnal journey. The bad condition andlength of the road had tired our horses, and we thought fora while that we should be compelled to sleep at the footof the hill on which the town is built. An enormous bonfire,lighted on a neighbouring mountain, whose light displayedour distressed situation; the illuminations of Murfreesborough,which exhibited the appearance of a city inflames; the noise of cannon resounding on our right, withthe effect of battery on our flank; the cries of ourescort; the whipping and swearing of our drivers, all wasinsufficient to stimulate our horses, which, sunk in the mudto their knees, appeared to have taken root, refusing to33make the least exertion to draw us out of this sad situation,in which we remained about an hour. At length we arrived,and were very amply compensated by the cordialhospitality of the inhabitants of Murfreesborough, who neglectednothing to prove to General Lafayette that thecitizens of North Carolina were not less sincerely attachedto him than those of the other states.

From Murfreesborough, we went the next day to Halifax,where we crossed the Roanoak, in a ferry-boat, amidstthe thunder of artillery which awaited the arrival ofGeneral Lafayette on the opposite shore. Halifax wasformerly the head quarters of Cornwallis, during his campaignin North Carolina. It was there that the English chiefadopted the resolution, which proved so unfortunate, ofentering Virginia. We only slept at Halifax, and in twodays, after travelling over frightful roads, reached Raleigh,a pretty little town, situated on the west bank of the riverNeuse. It is the seat of government for North Carolina,and contains about two thousand seven hundred inhabitants,of which about fifteen hundred are blacks, both freeand slaves. One of the most precious monuments of thistown, is the superb statue of Washington, executed inmarble by Canova. It is preserved, with the greatestcare, in one of the halls of the capitol.

The governor of the state, officers of government, militia,and, in fine, all the population, were prepared toreceive and entertain, with proper dignity, the guest of thenation. Such was the height of the prevailing enthusiasm,that, in spite of bad weather, a company of volunteer dragoonshad marched nearly one hundred and fifty miles, toassist at this family festival. The gallant men who composedit, had solicited and obtained leave to perform, forthis day, the duty of guard to Lafayette; and they hadfounded their pretensions upon the circ*mstance, that thecounty of Mecklinburg, to which they belonged, was thefirst in the state where independence was declared, duringthe revolution. “Whenever it becomes necessary to servefor liberty or Lafayette,” said they, “we shall always befound among the foremost.” Nothing was neglected byGovernor Burton, in doing the honours of his dwellingto the national guest.

The morning of our arrival at Raleigh was near being34marked by a very unfortunate accident. In one of thecalashes which followed us, was General Daniel of themilitia, and a young officer of his staff; their horses ran off,and, the driver not being able to guide them, dashedviolently against the trunk of a tree. The force of theshock threw both the riders and the coachman to somedistance, but the one most hurt was poor General Daniel,who lay almost senseless upon the spot. Our progresswas immediately suspended, and General Lafayette, who,at the time, was a considerable distance in advance of theprocession, hastily returned to assure himself of the natureof the accident. General Daniel already began to recover,when the hasty zeal of his friend, General Williams,was upon the point of placing him in greater danger thanarose from the fall. This gentleman insisted upon hisbeing immediately bled, and already held the fatal lancetin hand to proceed with the operation, when Mr. GeorgeLafayette besought him seriously to forbear, representingthat we had just left the table, and that a bleeding immediatelyafter dinner might be attended with injurious consequences.After having rendered General Daniel thefirst attentions which his situation demanded, we had himcarried to the house of a rich planter, whom we had visitedin the morning, some miles off; and, the next day, ourwounded friend joined us at Raleigh, entirely recoveredfrom his fall, returning his warmest thanks to Mr. GeorgeLafayette, for having averted the employment of thelancet.

I was, at first, much surprised to see this lancet drawnupon such an occasion, but one of our travelling companionsinformed me, that in the southern and western states,and especially in those where the population is widelyscattered, the art of blood-letting is familiar to almost allthe great planters. The difficulty of finding a surgeon atthe moment of accident, often makes it necessary to bleedthemselves, which they sometimes do so profusely, thatthe most hardy phlebotomists of the French school wouldbe alarmed at the sight.

On the 4th of March, we arrived at the pretty littletown of Fayetteville, situated on the western bank of CapeFear river. The weather was dreadful, the rain pouringin torrents, notwithstanding which, the road for many35miles in front of the town was covered with men andboys on horseback, and militia on foot. In the town, thestreets were crowded with ladies elegantly dressed, hurrying,regardless of consequences, across the gutters, to approachthe carriage of the general, and so occupied with the pleasureof beholding him, that they did not appear to notice thedeluge which seemed ready to engulf them. This enthusiasmmay be more readily conceived, when we considerthat it was manifested by the inhabitants of a town,founded forty years ago, to perpetuate the recollection ofservices rendered by him whom they were this dayhonouring.

General Lafayette was conducted to the front of thetown-house, where, upon an elevated platform, he wasreceived and addressed by Chief Justice Troomer, on behalfof the town council. In the course of his harangue,the orator recapitulated, with enthusiasm, the obligationswhich America owed to Lafayette, retraced some of thepersecutions to which he had been exposed in France andAustria, for having remained faithful to the cause of libertyand the rights of man, which he had been the first to proclaimin Europe, and concluded by drawing a forcibleparallel between the young republics of the United Statesand the old monarchies of the ancient continent ofEurope.

After General Lafayette had expressed his gratitude forthe reception given him by the citizens of Fayetteville,and his sympathy for the sentiments of the orator, we wereconducted to the residence of Mr. Duncan M‘Rae, where,by the attentions of Mrs. Duncan, our lodgings had beenprepared in an elegant and commodious manner. Thegeneral was there received by the committee, appointed tosupply all his wants. “You are here in your own town,” saidthe chairman of the committee to him, “in your ownhouse, surrounded by your children. Dispose of all—everything is yours.” Every moment of our short stay atFayetteville was occupied by festivals of gratitude andfriendship. Notwithstanding the bad weather, whichnever ceased to oppose us, the volunteer militia companies,assembled to render military honours to the last survivingmajor-general of the revolutionary army, would not quitthe little camp which they had formed in front of the36balcony of the house, whence the general could easily seethem manœuvre. They were still under arms, on themorning of our departure, and we passed in front of theirline on leaving the town. It was then that GeneralLafayette, wishing to give them an expression ofhis gratitude, alighted, and passing through the ranks,took each officer and soldier affectionately by the hand.This conduct excited the spectators to such a pitch of enthusiasm,that a great portion of the population, willingto prolong the pleasure of seeing him, accompaniedhis carrage a considerable distance on the road, and onlyquitted him when the sun was nearly set.

The commerce of Fayetteville is very flourishing, andmust still increase from the vicinity of Cape Fear river,which is navigable to the sea. The products of the surroundingcountry consist principally of tobacco and grain.Its population is nearly four thousand souls, and increaseswith remarkable rapidity. Unfortunately more than athird of this population consists of slaves, who increase inthe same proportion with the free inhabitants; a circ*mstancewhich will probably continue for some time to retardthe full developement of its resources. What I heresay of Fayetteville is applicable to the whole state ofNorth Carolina, which, in a population of six hundredand forty thousand souls, has above two hundred thousandslaves.

The climate of North Carolina is said to be healthy, andvery well adapted to every species of culture. Nevertheless,the part through which we passed did not present anagreeable aspect. We met with numerous pine forestsoverflown by the rivers which watered them; many sandplains, and but little cultivated ground; that which is cultivatedproducing only rice and indigo. The mountainousparts of the state are stated to produce abundant crops ofwheat, rye, barley, oats, Indian corn, tobacco, hemp andcotton. This last article, when prepared for manufacturing,is produced in the proportion of one hundred and fiftypounds for each slave.

It is also in the highest grounds where native gold isfound in considerable quantity. It is obtained by simplywashing the earth. Its purity is very remarkable, havingbeen found twenty-three carats fine, and superior in quality37to the American or English gold coins. The pieces areof various weights. The heaviest yet found weighed nearlyfive pounds. In 1810, the mint of the United States receivedone thousand three hundred and forty-one ounces,the value of which amounted to twenty-four thousand sixhundred and eighty-nine dollars. In Montgomery county,many persons live by hunting for this metal. Every onehas permission to seek, upon condition that he gives halfhe finds to the owner of the soil.

Notwithstanding all its rich resources, North Carolinaappeared to me one of the least advanced of all the stateswe have hitherto visited. Slavery, in my opinion, shouldbe regarded as the principal cause of this condition. Itsconstitution, though in general founded upon those of theother states, differs from them in some points, and retainssome traces of aristocracy. Thus, for example, to be electeda senator, a person must be owner of three hundredacres of land; to be a representative, he must possess onehundred: finally, no man can be elected governor unless hebe the free proprietor of an estate yielding one thousanddollars. In the midst of promises of religious liberty, theconstitution of North Carolina has nevertheless the misfortuneto have preserved an unhappy distinction betweensects: thus, any man who denies the truth of the protestantreligion, can have no pretensions to any public employment.[3]I am well aware that in a government which supportsno established order of clergy, the inconvenience ofsuch a distinction is not so great, but it is nevertheless aserious blow aimed at the equality established and recognizedby law. A wrong of still more consequence inthis state, is that of having so long neglected the means ofpropagating primary instruction. In 1808 the legislature38first ordered schools to be provided at the public expense.But in spite of the defects which I have pointed out, theinhabitants of North Carolina, from their patriotism, areunquestionably worthy to form a part of the great confederatefamily of the United States. To prove this, it will besufficient to cite one fact, which is, that during the revolutionarywar, the enemy could never procure a pilot uponthe coast of this state. I might add, that the brilliant successeswhich attended the battles of Briar Creek in 1779,of Waxhaws in 1780, and of Guilford in 1781, were due tothe militia of this state.

CHAPTER IV.

Entrance into South Carolina—Route from Cheraw to Cambden—Monumenterected to Baron de Kalb—Road from Cambden to Charleston—Rejoicingin Charleston—Colonel Huger—History, Institutions, andManners of the South Carolinians.

Twenty-four hours after our departure from Fayetteville,in the midst of a pine forest, we met the deputation ofthe state of South Carolina to General Lafayette. This meetingtook place on the confines of the two states. Our kindand amiable travelling companions from North Carolinadelivered us to their neighbours, with the most lively expressionsof regret at a separation which cost us as muchas them, and we continued our route in new carriages, witha new escort of friends, till we arrived at Cheraw, a prettylittle town, which, three years previous, had not more thanfour houses built, and now contains about fifteen hundred inhabitants.The next day’s journey was long and difficult;sometimes, indeed, the road was almost impassable, being,in some places, entirely cut up by the overflow of rivers,whilst in others we could only cross the marshes by movinggently over a road formed of badly arranged trunks of trees.In fact, we travelled so slowly, that night overtook us onthe road, and it soon became so dark that many of the gentlemenof our escort lost the road, and not being able totrace it in the sand, wandered into the forest. The carriages39of the party also began to stray from each other, andtowards ten o’clock Mr. George Lafayette and myselfdiscovered that the one we rode in was at a great distancebehind the others. A few minutes after we felt a violentshock, and heard a loud crash. Our carriage tongue wasbroken, and we were left in the midst of the marsh. Oursituation was extremely disagreeable, and we should havehad some difficulty to escape from it but for the assistanceof two dragoons who had never left us, and who obliged usto mount their horses, which, after some minutes, broughtus in sight of the fires of the guard surrounding the housethat was to serve us for an asylum, where the general hadarrived an hour before. In this house, which stood altogetheralone in the midst of the woods, we were well accommodated.We had an excellent supper, and good beds,in which we might probably have slept soundly but for thetrumpet, which was sounded all night for the purpose ofrallying our scattered escort.

On arising, an entirely novel scene was presented tomy view. We were in the midst of what is called in Americaa new settlement, that is to say, a clearing or erectionof a new habitation in the woods. The house in which wehad passed the night was the only dwelling in the place,and it was still unfinished. By its side they had begun toraise the frames of some other buildings, doubtless intendedfor granaries and stables. Numerous trunks of half hewntrees collected together showed that it was the intention ofthe owner soon to erect other buildings, and already theforest was prostrated to a considerable extent. But a fewvast trees were standing in the clearing, whose brancheswere not only lopped off, but some of them were deprivedof their bark, and blackened for their whole length by theaction of the flames which had been employed to burn thebrush about them. It is difficult to imagine any thing moredesolate than such a scene. “It is, nevertheless, in thisway,” said one of our travelling companions, “that all ourlittle towns, which are so attractive and lively, begin.Cheraw, where you slept yesterday, and with which youwere so much pleased, but a few years ago resembled this,and, perhaps, should you return in four or five years, youmay here find another Cheraw. See,” continued he, takingme to a part of the forest which the axe and the fire had40still spared, “with what care and skill the founder of thisfuture city has laid the basis of a fortune which he anticipatesenjoying in a short time. Look at this lot of severalacres, surrounded by a strong fence, in which his cows,horses, and hogs are enclosed. These last named animals,raised thus at large, and in the enjoyment of abundanceof food, soon multiply without number, and affordhim a certain part of his subsistence. The next year, thatportion of his land which comes to be cleared, will probablyyield him a rich harvest of corn or rice; but the proprietor,whilst waiting for the growth of his crops, is obliged to obtainhis bread by trading, and pays for it in turpentine, collectedfrom the enormous pines which surround him. Asmall notch cut in the body of the tree, gives issue to a liquidwhich is received in a trough. Three thousand treesfurnish annually seventy-five barrels of turpentine. But itis not only the young and vigorous trees which contributeto his wants; he has recourse also to those time has destroyed.From the dead trees he extracts tar, obtained byburning the wood upon a grate, a kettle being placed beneathto receive the boiling liquid. Sometimes from theplants which he clears away from around his house, he obtainsa considerable quantity of potash, which still augmentshis wealth. Every year sees the cleared land increasearound him, and soon other settlers, encouraged by his success,place themselves about him, and assist in erecting thenew village, in which he may be permitted to enjoy thepublic employments conferred by his fellow citizens as atribute to his talents and patriotism.”

Whilst we were thus engaged in casting a rapid glanceover the resources of our host and his future destinies,General Lafayette concluded the preparations for his departure,and, at a signal given by the trumpets, we resumedour journey, passing through the sands and pines on ourway to Cambden, where we were to lodge. The weather hadchanged during the night, and our march was now favouredby a clear sky. Although it was the month of March, wefelt the heat of the sun considerably, and every thingaround bore the appearance of advanced spring. Onapproaching Cambden, where we saw a considerable numberof well cultivated gardens, we were a good deal surprisedto find the trees in flower, and the balmy air41perfumed by the plants, as in France during the month ofJune.

Cambden is not a large town, containing only about twohundred inhabitants. We nevertheless found there a verynumerous population, collected from more than eighty milesaround, to receive General Lafayette, and assist in layingthe corner stone of a monument which they were abouterecting to the memoir of Baron de Kalb. General Lafayettewas received a little in advance of the town, nearthe old quarters of Cornwallis, by all the citizens underarms, and was conducted with great pomp, and in themidst of companies of young ladies, to the dwelling preparedfor him, where he was addressed by ColonelNixons, Jr. with a remarkable warmth of feeling. The attentivecrowd applauded the orator with transports, whenhe told the general that his visit to the United States hadadded a new page to history, and that the splendour ofGreek and Roman triumphs faded before the unanimityand harmony of this popular ovation.

On the morning of the next day, a long procession,formed chiefly of free masons, followed by the civil authoritiesand deputations from the different associations ofSouth Carolina, came to the general’s lodgings, and conductedhim with solemn music towards the spot whereDe Kalb’s funeral ceremony was to be performed. Therethe consecration of the monument raised by the generousinhabitants of South Carolina to unfortunate bravery, wasperformed. An inscription, in a style at once noble andunaffected, reminds the country of the services and gloriousend of De Kalb.

It is well known that De Kalb was a German, who,after he had served a long time in France, came to America,like Lafayette and Pulaski, to offer his services in thecause of liberty. He was second in command in GeneralGates’s army during the unfortunate affair of Cambden,where the Americans were completely defeated. He hadperformed prodigies of valour at the head of the Delawareand Maryland troops, when, towards the close of the battle,he fell from his eleventh wound, an event which deprivedthe American cause of one of its most able and devoteddefenders.

After his remains, which had been carefully preserved,42were deposited in the monument, and had received militaryhonours, the stone which was to cover them was laidby General Lafayette. It contained the following inscription:—Thisstone was placed over the remains of BaronDe Kalb by General Lafayette, 1825.

The hand of the general resting upon the stone, followedit as it slowly and gradually descended, whilst the multitude,in religious silence, contemplated the French veteran,after almost half a century, rendering the last offices to theGerman soldier, in a land which they both had moistenedwith their blood, and which their arms had contributed toset free. How many glorious and painful recollections mustthis scene have awakened in the mind of Lafayette! Alas!during his long triumph, how many tombs was it his lot tovisit, from that into which he descended at Mount Vernon,to the one soon to be raised at Bunker’s Hill!

The ceremony concluded by a discourse from the general,in which he paid to his old companion in arms, thattribute of esteem which was due to his civil virtues, hismilitary talents, and undaunted courage, in defending thecause of freedom.

We left Cambden on the 11th, to go to Columbia, thecapital of the state of South Carolina. This town ispleasantly situated upon a fertile and healthy plain, on theshore of the river Congaree. We found all the streets,through which the general and his escort were to pass,ornamented with flags and triumphal arches. Upon oneof these, three young and beautiful girls supported flags,upon each of which were inscribed, in letters of gold, thenames of Lafayette, De Kalb, and Pulaski. Under another,placed near the house we were to occupy, thegeneral was met and addressed by the mayor of the town,a young man of distinguished talents, who, during our stayat Columbia, paid us the most kind and delicate attentions.Governor Manning also addressed the general, in the presenceof the people assembled in the legislative hall ofSouth Carolina, and both the evening and morning weredevoted to public rejoicings.

The first evening, after having passed through the streets,which were brilliantly illuminated, we paid a visit to theacademy, under the superintendence of the celebrated Dr.43Cooper. We were agreeably entertained by the professors,who are all of the first merit. Two of them spokeFrench with great fluency. They informed us, that theyhad resided a long time in Paris, where they were proudto have acquired that knowledge which they were calledupon to impart to their pupils. The next day, severalcompanies of militia, among which a corps formed by thestudents of the academy, under the name of LafayetteGuards, were distinguished, came to exercise under thegeneral’s windows. We passed the remainder of the day,in the midst of some of Lafayette’s veteran companions inarms, who took a pleasure in recalling to his memory, thetimes in which they had fought and suffered with him forthe independence of their country. In the evening, at aball, rendered remarkable by the beauty of the ladiesgracing it, as well as for the good taste displayed in thearrangements, we made acquaintance with a young ladywho inspired us with the most lively interest. She wasthe wife of one of the professors. Born in Paris, she hadonly been transplanted into this new soil about threemonths, in the midst of manners which at first were altogetherstrange, but with which she now appeared perfectlyreconciled. She was introduced to the general, who receivedher with great kindness. Towards the close of theevening, her French and American feelings, stronglyexcited by the testimonials of friendship and admirationshe saw lavished upon Lafayette, suddenly broke forth intransports which she was unable to suppress. “Heavens!”exclaimed she, “how proud and happy I feel, to-day, inbeing a native of France, and of the same country withGeneral Lafayette!” Then, after having sprung towardsthe general and kissed his hands, she returned to me withgreat animation, and said: “Tell the general’s family, Ibeseech you, how happy we should be to receive themhere as we have received him! And say to them, that formyself, I feel for the children of La Grange the friendshipof a countrywoman, and for Lafayette himself the gratitudeof an American.” This scene made a lively impressionupon all who witnessed it, and the general thankedthe young lady with all the ardour of a strongly agitatedheart.

On the 14th of March, we set out for Charleston, intending44to lodge some miles from this city, as General Lafayettewas not to make his entry until the 15th. An escort ofColumbia volunteer cavalry were formed in line before thedoor, at the moment of our departure, anxious to accompanythe general all the way to Charleston; but he thankedthem, and insisted that they should not leave the town, asthe road he had to travel was both long and difficult, andthere was moreover the appearance of a heavy rain. Itwas, in fact, at a very late hour that we arrived at ourdestination. The night and the rain caught us in themidst of a thick forest, across which it was difficult to findour narrow and devious way. About nine o’clock in theevening, the carriage I rode in broke down. That of thegeneral, which went before with the governor and someofficers of his staff, continued its route without perceivingthe accident; but that of Mr. George Lafayette, which atthis time happened to be in the rear, found its passageobstructed, and the horses taking fright, plunged amongstthe trees, where it stuck fast. Mr. George, and his travellingcompanions, Colonel Preston and the Mayor ofColumbia, immediately alighted, and, by main strength,dragged their carriage before mine. They offered me aseat along with them to continue the journey, directingthe servants to mount the horses and go in search of lightand assistance to repair the broken vehicle. I acceptedtheir offer, but had scarcely joined them, when ColonelPreston, who had taken the reins, deceived by the darkness,carried us into the thickest of the woods, and in sucha situation, that we must have infallibly upset had we proceededa step further. Nothing was left for us now, butto remain nearly an hour, under a driving rain, for thereturn of the servants, who brought with them great pinetorches. They now assisted us out of our embarrassment,and at eleven o’clock at night, wet and extremely fatigued,we reached the house of Mr. Izard, where we found thegeneral and his companions, who had arrived a long timebefore. The hospitable table of Mr. Izard, his kind receptionand that of his family, soon made us forget our misfortunes,at which we were the first to laugh over the dessert.

That the citizens of Charleston, who had made immensepreparation to receive the guest of the nation, might not bekept waiting, we resumed our journey at a very early hour.45At the moment when we were preparing to take leave ofthe family of Mr. Izard, we saw an escort of volunteer cavalryarrive from the city, with which we immediately setout. In proportion as we advanced towards Charleston,the monotony of pine forests disappeared. Our eyes nowrested with pleasure upon clusters of verdant and beautifullyshaped saplings, among which superb magnolias weremajestically elevated. The entrance to the city appearedto us like a delicious garden. The coolness of the nighthad condensed the perfumes from the orange, peach, andalmond trees, covered with flowers, and embalmed the air.We stopped a few minutes to change the carriage and allowthe procession time to form, when, on a signal given by acannon, we commenced our entrance into Charleston.

The inhabitants of Charleston, as residents of the citywhich had received the young Lafayette on his first arrivalon American ground, in 1776, were eager to prove that nowhere more than among themselves, had a stronger recollectionof his devotion to the cause of liberty been preserved.Accordingly, the reception which they gave himmay be compared, for the splendour of its decorations andpublic enthusiasm, to the finest we had seen in the principalcities in the United States. The militia of Charlestonwere joined by the militia from the most distant parts ofthe state. Some companies of volunteer cavalry had, wewere told, marched fifty miles a day to take the post assignedthem by their patriotic gratitude.

Among the various corps which left the city to meet thegeneral, there was one which particularly attracted our attention.Its uniform was precisely similar to that worn bythe national guard of Paris at the time of the French revolution.The language in which the men composing thiscorps sounded forth their vivat, when the general passedbefore them, showed us that they were Frenchmen, andwe experienced a pleasing emotion on hearing our countrymenunite their voices with those of liberty and gratitude.

The French company joined the procession, and, actuatedby a sentiment of extreme delicacy, the Americansceded to them the place of honour, near the carriage ofthe general. The procession was soon increased by agreat number of parties, composed of the clergy, association46of Cincinnati, veterans of the revolutionary army, studentsof the different faculties, officers of the United Statesarmy and navy, judges of the different courts, children ofthe public schools, German, French, Jewish, and Hibernianbeneficent societies, the association of mechanics, &c. &c.All these detachments were distinguished by the form, colour,and devices of their flags; and the rest of the populationfollowing on foot and on horseback, made the air resoundwith cries of Welcome, Lafayette, which sounds, for nearlytwo hours without intermission, were mingled with thethunder of cannon from the shipping in port, and the ringingof all the bells. But amidst all these expressions ofpublic affection, that which penetrated the general’s heartmost was the touching and generous plan adopted by thecitizens of Charleston to share the honours of his triumphwith his brave and excellent friend Colonel Huger.

It is well known that during his imprisonment in the fortressof Olmutz, General Lafayette was upon the point ofbeing liberated by the devotion of two men whom thesame generous feelings had associated in this dangerousenterprize. These were Dr. Bollman, a German physician,and young Huger, an American, son of a descendantof a French family proscribed by the revocation of the edictof Nantes, in whose house Lafayette was received on hisfirst landing in Charleston. A series of unfortunate incidentscaused the failure of this generous attempt, whichnearly cost them their lives, and occasioned Lafayette tobe treated, by his keepers, with increased severity. Uponhis release from the Austrian dungeons, young Huger returnedto his country, where he found, in the esteem ofthe public, the reward of his noble and perilous enterprize.At present the father of a family, a planter, and colonel ofmilitia, he lives retired and generally beloved, on a fineestate within a few leagues of Charleston. General Lafayettehad already enjoyed the pleasure of pressing him tohis grateful heart, upon his arrival at New York. Whenwe entered Charleston, his fellow citizens insisted uponhis taking a place by the side of the nation’s guest, in histriumphal car, where he shared the public felicitations andplaudits. At the feast, at the theatre, or ball, every where,in fact, the name of Huger was inscribed by the side ofthat of Lafayette, upon whom the citizens of Charleston47could confer no greater favour, than by testifying such ahigh degree of gratitude for one who had formerly exposedhimself in attempting to restore him to liberty.

After the procession had passed through all parts of thetown, it halted at the court-house, where the mayor, at thehead of the municipal authorities, and in the presence ofthe people, addressed General Lafayette.

The acclamations of the people followed the words ofthe orator, and the reply of the general, who, with an eloquencerendered more impressive by the grateful feelingsof his heart, recalled the ancient obligations which he owedthe citizens of Charleston, the noble devotion of the ladiesof this patriotic city, and the courage of the Caroliniansduring the whole course of the revolution.

Colonel Drayton also addressed the general on behalf ofthe association of Cincinnati, after which we were conductedto the sumptuous lodgings prepared for us, where,during the whole of the next day, the general received thevisits of all the corporations of the city. The company ofFrench fusileers we had observed on entering the city,presented themselves first, the martial music at its head,saluting the general with the two patriotic airs of YankeeDoodle and the Marseillois. Mr. Labatut and one of hiscompanions then addressed the object of their homage,after which the company filed off before him, blending withthe military honours they paid him, testimonies of the mosttender affection. When the general complimented theofficers on the fineness of their discipline, and good taste oftheir uniform, “We could not,” said they, “have chosenone more honourable. Lafayette and our fathers wore itin the glorious days of liberty in our country, and it incessantlyreminds us that the first duties of an armed citizenare, the maintenance of public order, and the defence ofthe rights of man.” We passed among these brave mensome delicious moments, consecrated to the recollectionsof our country. All spoke of it with tenderness and enthusiasm,all expressed ardent wishes for her happiness.Among them were some exiles!

Shortly after the French company had retired, we sawall the members of the clergy arrive, assembled under thedirection of the Rev. Dr. Farnham, whom they had chosenfor their orator. Among them were seen Episcopalians,48Presbyterians, Jews, Roman Catholics, and German andFrench Protestants. To witness their touching union, andthe testimonies of their reciprocal liberality, one mighthave thought that they all belonged to the same communion.I cannot introduce here the long and eloquent discourseof Dr. Farnham, but I can assert, that, like thatpronounced by Bishop White of Philadelphia, it confirmedwhat I had heard of the liberality of the clergy, which,without the support of a government that seems ignorantof their existence, feels the necessity of conciliating publicesteem by the practice of true virtue.

I pass over the account of the balls, displays of artificialfire-works, and entertainments given during our stay inCharleston, since it would be nearly a repetition of whatI have already said in relation to so many cities. But, leavingthe general surrounded by his old fellow soldiers, atthe head of whom he still found the worthy General Pinckney,to be entertained with the glorious recollections oftheir youthful days, I shall attempt a rapid sketch of thehistory of South Carolina.

This portion of the North American continent was exploredfor the first time by Jean Ponce de Leon, the Spanishgovernor of Porto-Rico. Struck with the beauty ofthe vegetation, and the smiling aspect of the country, hegave it the beautiful name of Florida. But not findingeither gold or silver mines, he gave up the plan of forminga settlement. For a long time this country was covetedby the kings of France, England, and Spain; but it was nottill the year 1562 that France decided upon asserting herclaims. At the request of Admiral Coligny, who was desirousof finding an asylum for the protestant party, a navalofficer named Ribaut, a native of Dieppe, was despatchedwith two vessels and troops to survey the coast and forma settlement. Jean Ribaut landed at the mouth of a river,under the thirtieth degree of latitude, and established theright of possession by the erection of a stone column, uponwhich he engraved the arms of France. After remainingsome time upon the coast, during which he entered intotreaties of peace with the natives of the country, he arrivedat the mouth of Albemarle river, where he formed his firstsettlement, which he called Carolina, in honour of CharlesIX. He raised for its protection a small fort, which he49garrisoned with about forty men, and leaving it under thecommand of one of his officers named Albert, returned toFrance. This governor being very severe in carrying intoeffect the discipline he had established, was soon murderedby his soldiers, who, anxious to return to theircountry, very soon embarked, and sailed for France. Butscarcely had they lost sight of the coast when they experiencedsuch a dead calm as kept them so long at sea thattheir provisions became exhausted; and they had alreadybegun to devour each other, when they were met by anEnglish vessel, which carried them to England, wherequeen Elizabeth made them relate to her, with their ownlips, the account of their horrible adventures.

Two years afterwards, a new expedition sailed underthe command of Réné de Landonnière, to establish andprotect the colony; but whether owing to misfortune, orwant of knowledge in the leader, the expedition was attendedwith the most melancholy results. The complaintsof the colonists against Landonnière reached France, anddetermined the government to send out Ribaut to takecharge of their affairs. This person was surprised at themouth of May river by a Spanish squadron of six vessels,which attacked him so fiercely that he could only escapeby entering the river. Determined to resist the Spaniardswith vigour, Ribaut landed his men, carefully entrenchedthem, and going in search of the best troops of Landonnière,whom he left in Fort Carolina, with all those whowere unable to bear arms, embarked again to pursue theenemy. But he was assailed during the night by a violentstorm which drove his vessels upon the rocks. It waswith the greatest difficulty that he and his companionsgained the shore to surrender themselves to the Spaniards,by whom they were basely murdered without mercy. Thesick, together with the women and children who remainedin the fort, met with the same fate. Landonnière, and afew of his family, were all that escaped, and after a longtime, succeeded almost by a miracle in getting back toFrance, where they carried the news of the melancholyend of their companions. By the court of France the horribleevent was treated with indifference, but the publicdid not conceal its indignation, and many of the mostinfluential men demanded vengeance. One of these, named50Dominic de Gourges, a gentleman of Gascony, resolved uponbeing the avenger of his countrymen. He fitted out threevessels at his own expense, took on board two hundred soldiersand eighty marines, arrived at the mouth of the riverMay, where he showed himself under the Spanish flag,landed under this disguise without being recognized,marched rapidly upon Fort Carolina, of which, with twoothers, aided by the natives, he soon obtained possession,conquered the Spanish garrisons, razed the fortifications, andreturned in triumph to France laden with booty. This daringenterprise struck terror into the Spaniards, and for ever disgustedthem of Carolina, which, until the reign of CharlesII. of England, was abandoned to all the nations of Europe.

It was at this time that the English government, who hadpreviously made a settlement at the mouth of May River,under pretext of protecting some families who had escapedthe tomahawk of the Indians in Virginia, took possessionof all the country, situated between the 31st and 36th degreesof latitude, and granted it to eight gentlemen of thecourt, the king, as proprietary of the royal castle of Greenwich,reserving to himself supreme authority, together withthe fourth part of all the gold and silver which might be foundwithin the bounds of the territory. The celebrated Lockewas appointed to prepare a charter for the new colony.By this constitution a species of royalty was transferred tothe oldest of the colonists, supported by an aristocracywhich exhibited the whimsical assemblage of lords, barons,landgraves and caciques, whose powers and pretensionsincessantly coming into collision, were soon subjected tothe tyranny of the palatine, for such was the title of thesuperior officer whose precedence was derived entirelyfrom his age. This constitution, the abortive conceptionof a great genius, was destroyed in 1720. The populationof the colony soon increased rapidly, in consequence of thepolitical and religious persecutions, which at that perioddesolated Europe. It received, almost at the same time,English royalists, the parliamentists, and the non-conformists.France sent the choicest of her citizens, proscribedby the edict of Nantes. In 1730, the mountains of Scotlandsaw their vanquished inhabitants going thither in search ofan asylum; and in 1745, it was further enriched bythe arrival of Swiss and German emigrants. From this51time Carolina began to be sensible of its strength, and toresist the abuse of power manifested by the English government.She refused to pay taxes imposed without her consent,and gave her sanction to the resolutions of thecolonial congress, to which she sent deputies in 1765.Nevertheless, when, in 1775, it was resolved to break thechain which united Carolina to the mother country, a divisionof opinion occurred among the colonists, a considerablenumber of whom armed in favour of the Britishgovernment. A civil war was near breaking out, when avery extraordinary occurrence led to the reconciliation ofthe parties. On the same day that hostilities commencedat Lexington in Massachusetts, despatches from Englandarrived at Charleston. The revolutionary committeeseized the mail containing the letters addressed to thegovernors of Virginia, the two Carolinas, Georgia and EastFlorida, by which they were directed to employ the forceof arms to reduce the colonies to subjection. About thesame time, intelligence was received at Savannah, of anact of parliament, authorising these governors to deprivethe colonists of the protection of the law and royal privilege,and confiscate their property.

These various accounts having been published by thecommittee, inspired all the citizens with the same sentimentsof indignation, and the councils being immediatelycalled together, the question was proposed, Shall we die slaves,or live free? The reply could not be doubtful. All swore totake up arms and defend their rights. Some indiscreet tories,who attempted to maintain possession of the countryby the assistance of Indians, whom they had taken into pay,were soon annihilated by the patriotic militia, who, after along and painful struggle against the English troops of Savannah,at length secured the independence of Carolina bythe celebrated victory gained at Eutau Spring, in the year1781.

It was in the midst of the troubles of war, in the year1778, that Carolina formed her first constitution. This,though very much in conformity with the principles of therevolution, perhaps exhibited some indications of the hastewith which it was prepared. It was revised, modified, andadopted in its present form, at Columbia, on the 30th ofJune, 1790. Such as it now is, it would be considered in52Europe highly democratic; but, compared with the constitutionof Pennsylvania, for example, and those of someother states in the Union, it appears altogether aristocratic.The conditions imposed upon the candidates for governor,senators, and members of the assembly, restrict the eligibleto a very small number. The senators, chosen every fouryears, to the number of forty-three, must be at least thirtyyears of age, have resided in the state five years previous tothe election, and possess an unincumbered property worththree hundred pounds sterling. Should the candidate notdwell in the district by which he is supported, his propertymust be worth a thousand pounds sterling.

The representatives, to the number of twenty-four, areelected for two years. They must be free white men, atleast twenty-one years of age, and the owners of propertyworth one hundred and fifty pounds sterling, or instead, aplantation containing five hundred acres, and ten slaves.Should the candidate not reside in the district where he issupported, the value of his property is required to be fivehundred pounds. He must be a citizen of the state, in whichhe shall have lived at least three years previous to theelection.

It is obvious that both houses of the legislature are composedof a portion of the richest proprietors only. It isfrom this legislative power, blemished as it is with aristocracy,that the executive authority springs; for it is by theunion of the two houses that the governor, in whom thispower resides, is chosen. The conditions of eligibility forgovernor are very high, and restrict the choice to a verysmall circle. Every candidate for this office must be thirtyyears of age, a citizen of the state, in which he must haveresided at least ten years previous to the election, and possessa clear estate worth fifteen hundred pounds sterling.The powers of the governor only continue for two years.The worst condition in the constitution is that imposing anobligation on the senators to own slaves. I am well awarethat it must necessarily disappear before the abolition ofslavery takes place, but does it not appear to be placedthere as an obstacle to abolition? And might not the repealof this article prove a salutary effort in favour of abolition?

As in all the other states of the Union, religious organizationis in no way connected with government, which only53guarantees to the various sects the free exercise of their religiousrites, so long as such a privilege is unattended bylicentiousness, or is compatible with the peace and securityof the state. Ministers of religion are ineligible to theoffice of governor, lieutenant-governor, and member of assembly,so long as they continue in the exercise of theirpastoral functions. The sects are numerous and variable,as one may easily perceive from the composition of thereligious body that waited upon General Lafayette. Itmay, perhaps, have been observed, that it was only whilstspeaking of the sects in South Carolina, that I mentionedthe Jews. It is, in fact, in this state alone, that they appearsufficiently numerous to attract attention. Their numberis computed at about twelve hundred, of whom thecity of Charleston contains about five hundred, who, duringthe late war, distinguished themselves by their courage andpatriotism, furnishing a company of sixty volunteers for thedefence of the country. The rest of the United States containslittle more than five thousand Israelites, the most ofwhom are of English and German origin. Those of SouthCarolina are more particularly of French and Portuguesedescent. The synagogue in Charleston was built in theyear 1794. Previous to this time the Jewish congregationof this city had only a small place for the exercise of theirreligious rites. According to Dr. Theact’s description ofCharleston, the Israelites began to form into a society aboutthe year 1750. As soon as ten of them had united, (forthis is the number required by the Hebrew law for thepublic exercise of their religion,) they procured a placeconvenient for their purpose. The present edifice isspacious and elegant. The society that built it is calledKalh kadosh beth Eloem, that is to say, the religious societyof the house of God. Kalh, or society, is the name commonto the whole Hebrew congregation. The actual numberof subscribing members is about seventy, which gives rathermore than three hundred persons having the privilegeof the synagogue, as well as the other advantages connectedwith this privilege. The society of Reformists amount toabout fifty members, which, with their families, makeabove two hundred of this order.

South Carolina is situated between the 32d and 33ddegrees of latitude. Its superficies contains about twenty-nine54thousand square miles, the soil being very variable.From the coast of the Atlantic to about twenty-four mileswithin the interior, the country is a vast plain rising imperceptiblyabout two hundred feet above the level of the sea;its surface is divided into forests of pine, which grow in asandy soil of little value; extensive morasses, which renderthe air insalubrious during the autumn; savannas, whichproduce only grass; and higher lands, which are adapted tothe growth of cotton. Rice is cultivated with successnear the rivers, whose inundations fertilize their borders.Beyond the plain the country is mountainous, productive,and more healthy than the lower districts, where thehumidity of the rivers, and the changeableness of temperatureduring the whole season, render diseases verycommon.

This state contains 502,741 inhabitants, who may bedivided into three classes; 237,460 free whites, 6,806 freeblacks, and 258,465 slaves. It appears, that the numberof slaves considerably surpasses that of the free whites, sothat this state has begun to feel the inconveniences of slaveryto such a degree, that fear has induced them to adoptmeasures of safety, which infringe both the laws of humanityand the rights of property. By a recent law,every traveller, who enters Carolina with a black servant,finds that he is immediately taken from him, imprisoned,and only returned to him when he is about to leave thestate. What is the utility of this measure, is a questionI find myself very much embarrassed to answer. It is, saythey, to prevent dangerous communications, between theslaves of that state and the free black strangers, whonever fail to talk to them of liberty.

This state of things in relation to slavery in South Carolina,is the more distressing from its singular contrast withthe character of the inhabitants of that state. The Caroliniansare particularly distinguished for the cultivation oftheir minds, the elegance of their manners, their politenessand hospitality towards strangers. This last virtue isso common in Carolina, that one finds very few tavernsout of the large towns. Travellers may boldly presentthemselves at the houses of the planters which they find ontheir road, and are sure of being well received. The dispositionto assist the indigent is so great at Charleston, that55besides a great many private associations, they have fivepublic charitable societies, whose revenues, already veryconsiderable, are still daily increased by the liberality ofthe citizens.

The three days which General Lafayette passed atCharleston were marked by entertainments whose brilliancyand refinement delighted him; but of all the delicate attentionsthat were paid him, the most touching, perhaps, wasthe gift, made him by the city, of a beautiful portrait of hisfriend Colonel Huger. This beautiful miniature, of an appropriatesize, unites the merit of perfect likeness with themost admirable execution. It strongly resembles the styleof our celebrated Isabey, and would not have been disownedby him. It was executed by Mr. Frazer of Charleston,who already enjoys a great reputation in the United States,but has probably surpassed himself in this work. Theframe of solid gold, is more valuable for the elegance anddelicacy of the workmanship than the richness of its material.It came from the workshop of two artists of Philadelphia,and would have done honour to our most experiencedFrench jewellers.

The governor presented the general, in the name of thestate, with a beautiful map of South Carolina, enclosed ina rich case of silver. Many other persons came also tooffer handsome keepsakes, which he gratefully accepted.

On the 17th of March he left Charleston, carrying withhim the regrets of his friends, and the blessings of thepeople.

CHAPTER V.

Fort Moultrie—Edisto Island—Alligators—Savannah—Funeral Monuments—Augusta—Stateof Georgia.

The roads of South Carolina being generally very bad,the Charleston committee resolved to conduct the generalby sea to Savannah, where he had been expected for sometime. We embarked on the 17th of March, on board of56an elegant steam-boat, prepared and well provisioned bythe attentions of the committee, and took leave of theinhabitants of Charleston, who, assembled on the wharfand crowding the vessels, responded, by their acclamations,to the parting salutations of their guest. Before losingsight of Charleston, we directed our course towards Sullivan’sIsland, upon which stands Fort Moultrie, whichsaluted General Lafayette with all its guns. This fort,commanding the pass by which the vessels are obliged toenter the port of Charleston, was defended with extraordinarycourage by the Carolinian militia, on the 28th ofJune, 1776, against the English forces, superior both innumbers and experience.

The militia were commanded by General Moultrie, who,during the revolutionary war, sustained the highest reputationfor the valour and ability with which he defendedthis important post. We afterwards continued our navigationbetween the continent and the islands which borderit, and extend as far as Savannah. We landed on one ofthese, called Edisto, where General Lafayette was expected;but, as it was impossible for him to remain there morethan two or three hours, the inhabitants, who were collectedat one of the principal proprietor’s, decided to offerhim at once all the festivals they had prepared for severaldays. We had, at the same time, the harangue, the publicdinner, the ball, and even the baptism of a charming littleinfant, to which the name of Lafayette was given. Wethen rapidly traversed the island in a carriage, to join oursteam-boat, which awaited us on the side next the ocean.What we saw of the island, in this short ride, appearedto us enchanting; the vegetation was particularly strikingfrom its variety; odoriferous shrubs of the most elegantform, were agreeably interspersed among large forest trees;and, in the downs which border the sea-shore, we sawsome beautiful palm-trees, which gave to the small dwellingsthey shaded an aspect altogether picturesque. Thisisland, which lies at the mouth of Edisto river, forty milessouth-west of Charleston, is twelve miles in length and fivebroad. It has been inhabited since 1700.

During the rest of our voyage to Savannah, we coastedthe islands of Hunting, Beaufort, Port Republican, HiltonHead, &c.; and often through passages so narrow, that our57vessel almost touched the land on each side, and had ratherthe appearance of rolling on the surrounding meadows,than of gliding on the water which disappeared beneathus It was nearly midnight when we passed Beaufort,and all on board were asleep; but we were soon awakenedby the acclamations of citizens, who were waiting on theshore, and General Lafayette having arisen, yielded withreadiness to their desire that he would land for somemoments among them.

At sunrise, as we approached the mouth of the Savannahriver, we began to see some alligators extended on theshore, or swimming round our vessel. Our captain shotone, and sent the boat for it. It was about eight feet long,and we were assured that it was but of a middling size;some of them extend to twelve feet, and sometimes even,it is said, to fifteen or eighteen. The size of their body isthen equal to that of a horse. When of this size, the alligatoris a formidable animal, from its prodigious powerand agility in the water. Its form is nearly like that of alizard; it differs from it only by its cuneiform tail, flattenedon the sides, and which, from the root to the extremity,diminishes insensibly. Like all the rest of the body, it iscovered with a scaly coat, impenetrable to all arms, evento a musket-ball.[4] The head of an alligator of the largestsize is about three feet; the opening of the jaws is of thesame dimensions; its eyes are very small, sunken in thehead, and covered; its nostrils are large, and so muchdeveloped at the summit, that, when it swims its head atthe surface of the water resembles a large floating beam.Its upper jaw, only, is moveable; it opens perpendicularly,and forms a right angle with the lower jaw.[5] On each sideof the upper jaw, immediately below the nostrils, are twolong and strong teeth, slightly pointed and of a conical58form. They have the whiteness and polish of ivory, andbeing always exposed, give to the animal a frightful aspect.In the under jaw, just opposite these two teeth, are twosockets proper to receive them. When the alligator strikeshis jaws together, it produces a noise absolutely like thatmade by slapping a board violently against the ground, andwhich may be heard a great distance.

When, on the morning of the 19th, we arrived in sightof Savannah, we perceived all the population on the shore,and the militia assembled, who had waited during severalhours. We soon heard the majestic salute of the artillery,and the acclamations of the people. We replied to themby a salute from the guns of our vessel, and by the patrioticairs with which our music caused to re-echo from theshore. To this first feeling of pleasure caused by the receptionof the citizens of Savannah, a sentiment of painfulregret suddenly succeeded. We had to separate from ourtravelling companions of South Carolina. Among themwere the governor of this state, several general officers,and some members of the committee who had received usat Charleston. The governor, faithful to the laws whichinhibited his passing beyond the limits of the state, resistedall entreaties to induce him to land, and bade farewell tothe general with all the emotion of a child who separateshimself from a parent he is to see no more. Some minutesafter, we were in Georgia, at the entrance of Savannah,where the general was received and addressed by GovernorTroup, in the midst of an eager crowd. The triumphalcar and arches, the acclamations of the people, thewreaths and flowers scattered by the ladies, the sound ofbells and cannon, every thing proved to Lafayette thatthough he had passed into another state, he was neverthelessamong the same friendly and grateful people.

A commodious lodging had been prepared in the elegantmansion of Mrs. Maxwell; thither they conducted GeneralLafayette with a grand escort. After he had reposedsome moments, the mayor and council of the city came tocompliment him, and the day was terminated by a publicrepast, at which the civil and military authorities of thestate and of Savannah, the members of the bar, the clergy,and a great number of citizens, were present. After thethirteen usual toasts, the company offered many volunteer59toasts, all strongly indicative of the patriotic and republicancharacter which always distinguishes American assemblies.General Lafayette replied to the toast addressed tohim, by the following: “To the City of Savannah—Mayher youthful prosperity prove more and more to the oldworld, the superiority of republican institutions, and of thegovernment of the people by themselves.” A hymn toliberty, to the air la Marseillaise, terminated the banquet,and we returned to our quarters by the light of an illuminationwhich blazed over all the city.

The next day, Sunday, the general received, at an earlyhour, the visit of the French and the descendants ofFrenchmen residing in Savannah. At their head was Mr.Petit de Villers, who spoke in their name, and who, in adiscourse fully expressive of the sentiments of his compatriotstowards Lafayette, portrayed with ardour thebenefits of American hospitality towards proscribed Frenchmen,forced by every kind of despotism successively to demandan asylum in the United States.

To the visit of the French, succeeded those of the officersof the different bodies; the clergy came afterwards;at their head was the reverend Mr. Carter, who, in complimentingthe general, felicitated him above all, that hisefforts in favour of American independence had also resultedin the establishment of religious liberty.

To his acknowledgments, general Lafayette joined theexpression of his satisfaction in seeing America giving sogood an example of true religious liberty to old Europe,which still enjoys a very limited toleration. “In religious,as in political societies,” added he, “I am persuaded thatthe election by the people is the best guaranty of mutualconfidence.”

The citizens of Savannah had for a long time cherishedthe intention of paying a tribute of gratitude to the memoryof General Greene, justly considered as the southern heroof the revolutionary struggle; and to that of General Pulaski,the brave Pole, who, despairing of the cause ofliberty in his own country, came to sacrifice his life in thecause of American independence. They thought that thepresence of General Lafayette would add to the solemnityof the ceremony, and resolving to profit by his sojourn atSavannah, obtained his consent to lay the first stone of the60funeral monuments they intended to raise. Consequently,every thing being ready, they made the proposition, whichhe accepted with the more readiness and ardour, as he wasgratified to have an occasion of publicly testifying hisesteem for the character of General Greene, to whom hehad been particularly attached.

The ceremony was strongly characterized by the associationof those exalted religious and patriotic feelings,which particularly distinguish the actions of the Americanpeople. Agreeably to the resolution adopted at a meetingof the citizens, of which Colonel John Shellman was president,the masonic society, which was charged with all thedetails relative to the construction of the monument, formeditself into a procession on the 21st March, at nine inthe morning, and moved to the sound of music, to thelodgings of General Lafayette. The high priest, the kingand other officers of the royal chapter of Georgia, weredecorated with their finest apparel and richest masonicjewels. Before them was carried a banner elegantly embroidered.When they marched with the general, theprocession was augmented by the militia and citizens.

On arriving at the site of the destined monument, thetroops formed a line to the right and left to receive theprocession between them. The children of the schoolsuniformly dressed, and carrying baskets filled with flowers,which they scattered beneath the steps of General Lafayette,were already assembled. The people, collected in acrowd behind them, seemed placed there to protect theirfeebleness, and to present them to the nation’s guest. Aftera silence the most profound was obtained among theattentive crowd, the masons, and the monument committeearranged themselves at the west of the foundation,and the other part of the procession occupied theeast. General Lafayette then advanced to the place preparedto receive the corner stone. He was surrounded bythe grand master, the grand keepers, the chaplain, thegrand priest, the king, and the secretary of the chapter ofGeorgia, the governor, Colonel Huger, George Lafayette,&c. A national air, executed by a band of musicians, announcedthe commencement of the ceremony. Then thepresident of the monument committee advanced, and delivered61a very impressive and appropriate address, whichhe concluded by the following words.

“Very respectable grand master, in conformity with thewishes of my fellow citizens, and in the name of the monumentcommittee, I pray you to celebrate, according to therites of the ancient fraternity to which you belong, the layingof the corner stone of the monument we are about toraise to the memory of General Greene.”

After the orator had made this invitation, General Lafayettemade a sign that he wished to speak, and immediatelythe silence and attention of the multitude were redoubled,and all fixing their eyes upon him. He advanceda little, and said with a solemn voice—

“The great and good man to whose memory we thisday pay a tribute of respect, of affection and profound regret,acquired in our revolutionary war a glory so true andso pure, that even now the name alone of Greene recallsall the virtues, all the talents which can adorn the patriot,the statesman, and the general; and yet it appertains to me,his brother in arms, and, I am proud to be able to say, hisvery sincere friend, to you, sir, his brave countryman andcompanion in arms, here to declare, that the kindness ofhis heart was equal to the force of his elevated, firm, andenlightened mind. The confidence and friendship whichhe obtained, were among the greatest proofs of the excellentjudgment which characterized our paternal chief. Bythe affection of the state of Georgia towards him, the armyalso felt itself honoured; and I, sir, present myself beforeyou, before new generations, as a representative of thisarmy, of the deceased and absent friends of GeneralGreene, to applaud the honours rendered to his memory,and to thank you for the testimonies of sympathy whichyou have accorded me in this touching and melancholysolemnity, and for the part which your wishes have causedme to take in it.”

When the aged companion of Greene had ceased tospeak, a brother of Solomon’s Lodge, invested with masonicinsignia, advanced from the crowd, and joining hisvoice to the grave tones of the music, sung a hymn, thelast strophe of which was repeated in chorus by the assembledcompany, and the prayer of the people ascended to62heaven with the solemn reports of the reverberatingcannon.

During this time the corner stone had been prepared;and, before placing it, the grand chaplain, Mr. Carter, pronouncedthe prayer with a loud voice.

After this prayer, which was heard in religious silence,the grand master ordered the secretary of the committee toprepare the different objects which were to be placed inthe foundation as memorials of the event. These were severalmedals with the portraits of the nation’s guest, ofWashington, of General Greene, and Franklin; some piecesof money of the United States, struck at different periods,and also some paper money of the state of Georgia; someengravings, among which were the portraits of GeneralCharles Pinckney, and Doctor Kollock, and all the detailsrelative to the ceremony; lastly, a medal, on which werethese words: “The corner stone of this monument, to thememory of General Nathaniel Greene, was laid by GeneralLafayette, at the request of the citizens of Savannah, the21st of March, 1825.”

The stone was then lowered, amid strains of funeral music,to the bottom of the excavation. The general thendescended to the stone, and struck it three times with amallet; all the brethren came successively to render theirduties, and the grand priest of the royal chapter of Georgiacame, with the censor in his hand, to bless the cornerstone. When all these ceremonies were ended, the grandmaster remitted to the principal architect all the objects requisiteto be employed in the completion of the monument,charging him by all the ties which bound companions inmasonry to acquit himself of his duty, in a manner honourableto his workmen and himself.

With these, and other ceremonies common on these occasions,the stone was then sealed while the music playeda national air. The whole was terminated by a triple volleydischarged by the United States’ troops.

The procession then marched back in the same order asbefore, and repaired to Chippeway place, where the ceremonywas repeated in laying the corner stone of the monumentof Pulaski.

Before returning to his lodgings, General Lafayette wentto Brigadier-general Harden’s to assist at a presentation of63colours embroidered by Mrs. Harden, and presented by herto the first regiment of the Georgia militia. On these colours,very richly worked, was the portrait of General Lafayette,and several inscriptions recalling various gloriousepochs of the revolution. The burst of enthusiasm on receivingthem extended alike to the officers and soldiers,who swore that under these colours, presented by beauty,and consecrated by Lafayette, they would ever be assuredof vanquishing the enemies of liberty and their country.

Some hours after, notwithstanding the pressing entreatiesof the citizens, and above all, the ladies, who had prepareda ball for the same evening, the general, pressed by timeand his numerous engagements, was obliged to quit Savannah,and we embarked on board the steam-boat Alatamahawith the governor of Georgia, and the committee of arrangement,to visit Augusta, which is situated a hundred andeighty miles from the mouth of the river Savannah.

We found at Savannah a young man whose name anddestiny were calculated to inspire us with a lively interest;this was Achille Murat, son of Joachim Murat, ex-king ofNaples. On the earliest news of the arrival of GeneralLafayette in Georgia, he precipitately quitted Florida,where he has become a planter, and came to add his homageand felicitations to those of the Americans, whom henow regarded as his countrymen. Two days passed in hiscompany, excited an esteem for his character and understanding,not to be withheld by any who may have the sameopportunity of knowing him. Scarcely twenty-four yearsof age, he has had sufficient energy of mind to derive greatadvantages from an event which many others, in his place,would have regarded as an irreparable misfortune. Deprivedof the hope of wearing the crown promised by hisbirth, he transported to the United States the trifling remainsof his fortune, and sufficiently wise to appreciate thebenefits of the liberty here enjoyed, he has become a naturalizedcitizen of the United States. Far from imitatingso many fallen kings, who never learn how to consolethemselves for the loss of their former power, Achille Murathas become a cultivator, has preserved his name withoutany title, and by his frank, and altogether republicanmanners, has rapidly conciliated the regard of all who knowhim. He possesses a cultivated mind, and a heart filled64with the most noble and generous emotions. For the memoryof his father he cherishes a profound and melancholyveneration. Mr. George Lafayette, having cited in conversationsome traits of that brilliant and chivalric braverywhich Murat so eminently possessed, he appeared to bemuch affected by it; and, some moments after, when alonewith me, he said with warm emotion, “Mr. George hascaused me a great happiness; he has spoken well of my fatherto me.”

The conversation turning upon European politics, he explainedhimself with great freedom on the subject of theholy alliance, and, in general, upon every kind of despotism.I could not avoid saying to him, in pleasantry, that it was avery extraordinary circ*mstance to hear such discoursefrom the mouth of an hereditary prince. “Hereditaryprince,” replied he with vivacity, “I have found the meansto be more than such a thing—I am a freeman!” One circ*mstance,however, caused me pain and surprise, whichwas, that Achille Murat, free to choose his residence in theUnited States, should come to establish himself exactly inthe country afflicted by slavery. This choice could onlyappear to me reasonable for a man who had decided to labourall in his power for the gradual emancipation of theblacks, and to give to his neighbours an example of justiceand humanity, in preparing his slaves for liberty; but, Ibelieve, this noble project has not entered into the thoughtsof our young republican, who, to judge by some peculiaritiesof his conversation, seems but too well prepared toadopt the principles of some of his new fellow citizens as tothe slavery of the blacks. Is it then, thus, that the original sinof royalty must always show the tip of its ear?[6]

Savannah is the most important city of the state ofGeorgia. It is situated on the right bank of Savannah river,and about seventeen miles from its mouth. Its large andstraight streets cross at right angles, and are planted oneach side with a row of delightful trees, called the Pride ofIndia, and for which the inhabitants of the south have amarked predilection. Although elevated forty feet abovethe level of the river, the situation of Savannah is unhealthy;65an autumn seldom passes without the yellow fever makingcruel ravages. Commerce is notwithstanding very activethere; its port, which can admit vessels drawing forty feet,annually exports more than six millions of dollars worth ofcotton. Its population is 7523 inhabitants, divided thus:3,557 white individuals, 582 free people of colour, and3,075 slaves. The number of persons employed in themanufactories nearly equals that of those occupied in commerce,which is about six hundred.

On quitting Savannah, we sailed at first for more thansixty miles between low marshy grounds whence issuedmany rivulets, and which was covered by a vegetation themost rich and varied that it is possible to imagine. Amongthe tallest trees we observed four or five species of pines,nine of oak, tulip-trees, poplars, plantains, sassafras, &c.,beneath which grew more than forty kinds of shrubs, ofwhich the form, flower, foliage and perfume, constitute thedelicacies of our most brilliant parterres. Beyond thisplain, the soil rises rapidly about two hundred feet abovethe level of the sea, and presents at intervals fine tablelands, on which are established rich cotton plantations.

As we approached Augusta, two steam-boats, crowdedwith a great many citizens of that town, came to meet us,and saluted General Lafayette with three cheers, and thedischarge of artillery. We answered them by the patrioticair of Yankee Doodle, and by three rounds of our guns.They joining us we ascended the river together, eachforcing the steam in rivalry of speed. There was somethingfrightful in this contest; the three roaring vesselsseemed to fly in the midst of black clouds of smoke, whichprevented us from seeing each other. The Alatamaha wasvictorious, which produced a lively joy in our brave captain,who seemed to be a man who would blow up hisvessel rather than be beaten on such an occasion.

The general, forced to adhere rigorously to his calculationsfor travelling, had at first resolved to pass but one dayat Augusta; but it was impossible for him to resist theearnest solicitations of the inhabitants to remain two days,that the greater part of the preparations made for himshould not become useless. He yielded, and the entertainmentsthey gave him were so multiplied, that for the firsttime since the commencement of this prodigious journey,66he suffered a fatigue which caused us a momentary inquietude.

Among the citizens who received the general on thewharf at Augusta, we again met our fellow-passenger inthe Cadmus, Mr. King, a young lawyer much esteemed byhis fellow citizens. This meeting was to us not only veryagreeable, but also very useful; in leaving the river Savannah,our communications with the Atlantic would becomemore difficult; it was therefore important for us to transmitour despatches from Augusta, that our friends in Europemight once more have news from us before we should haveentirely passed into the interior of the country; and Mr.King had the goodness to undertake to forward them afterour departure, as well as some effects which we retrenchedfrom our baggage, in order to lighten ourselves as much aspossible, for we foresaw that we were going to travel theworst roads that we had yet encountered since leavingWashington.

The day after our arrival, the general was engaged tovisit, on the other side of the Savannah river, a sort ofprodigy, which proves to what extent good institutionsfavour the increase of population, the developement of industry,and the happiness of man. It is a village namedHamburg, composed of about a hundred houses, raised inthe same day by a single proprietor, and all inhabited inless than two months by an active and industrious population.This village is not yet two years old, and its port isalready filled with vessels, its wharves covered with merchandise,and its inhabitants assured of a constantly increasingprosperity. Hamburg being on the right bank ofthe Savannah, belongs to South Carolina.

On the 25th we left Augusta, which is well built andcontaining more than four thousand inhabitants, to visitMilledgeville, passing through Warrenton and Sparta. Thegeneral was very affectionately received in each of thesesmall towns; but we found the roads every where in a badcondition, and so much broken up, that we were obliged totravel a part of the way on horseback. Happily the carriagein which the general rode, resisted all accidents, butit was near breaking down twenty times. The first daythe jolts were so violent, that they occasioned GeneralLafayette a vomiting which at first alarmed us, but67this entirely ceased after a good night passed at Warrenton.

We arrived on the 2d of March, on the banks of littleriver Oconee, near to which Milledgeville, the capital ofGeorgia, is built. This town, which, from the dispersion ofits houses, and the multitude and extent of its beautiful gardens,rather resembles a fine village than a city, containinga population of two thousand five hundred souls, amongwhom General Lafayette was received as a father andfriend. The citizens, conducted by their magistrates,came to receive him on the banks of the river, and the aids-de-campof the governor conducted him with pomp to thestate house, which claimed the honour of lodging him. Theday was passed in the midst of honours and pleasures ofevery kind. After the official presentation in the statehouse, where the general was addressed by an Americancitizen of French descent, Mr. Jaillet, mayor of Milledgeville;after the visit which we made to the lodge of ourmasonic brethren, and the review of all the militia of thecounty, we dined with Governor Troup, who had assembledat his house all the public officers and principal citizens,with whom we spent the evening at the state house,where the ladies of the place had prepared a ball forGeneral Lafayette; but at this ball there was neither possibilitynor wish for any one to dance; each, anxious toentertain or hear the nation’s guest, kept near him, andseized with avidity the occasion to testify gratitude andattachment. Affected almost to tears with the kindnessevinced towards him, the general completely forgot thatGeorgia was a new acquaintance. He also forgot, it seemed,that to-morrow we were to depart early in the morning,and that some hours of repose would be necessary, as hepassed a great part of the night in conversing with his newfriends.

Before continuing the narrative of the subsequent journey,which conducted us from the bosom of the mostadvanced civilization, into the centre of still savage tribes,the aboriginal children of America, I shall make someobservations on the state of Georgia.

This state, situated between the 30th and 35th degreesof north latitude, and the 3d and 9th of longitude westfrom Washington, is bounded on the north by the state of68Tennessee, to the north-east by South Carolina, to thesouth-east by the Atlantic ocean, to the south by Florida,and to the west by the state of Alabama. Its surface is58,000 square miles, and its population 340,989 inhabitants,of which nearly 150,000 are slaves; a proportiontruly alarming, and which will, some day, bring Georgiainto an embarrassing situation, if its government does notadopt some measure to diminish the evil. Here, as in allthe slave states, the blacks are goods and chattels, whichare sold like any other property, and which may be inherited;but their introduction into the state as an object ofcommerce is severely prohibited. According to existinglaws, a person who brings into the state a slave, which hesells or exposes to sale within the year immediately succeedinghis introduction, is subjected to a penalty of onethousand dollars, and an imprisonment of five years in thestate prison. The prejudices against the coloured race isvery strong among the Georgians, and I have not remarkedthat they have made any great efforts for the abolition ofslavery; the laws even interpose a barrier to gradualemancipation, for a proprietor cannot give liberty to hisslave without the authority of the legislature. The ancientcode of slavery introduced by the English, and which wasa code of blood, is fallen into disuse, and has been suppliedby some laws protective of the slaves. Thus, forexample, whoever now designedly deprives a slave of lifeor limb, is condemned to the same punishment as if thecrime had been committed on a white man, except in acase of insurrection; but we feel that this law is to beadministered by judges who are themselves slave-holders,and under the influence of the same prejudices as theirfellow citizens; thus may one say with truth, that if theslaves of Georgia do not perish under the whip of theirmaster, as too often happens in the French colonies, it isowing solely to the naturally mild and humane dispositionsof the Georgians, and not to the efficacy of the laws, whichadmit that a slave may accidentally die on receiving moderatecorrection, without the author of the infliction beingguilty of murder.

Georgia, it is said, was that one of the ancient coloniesin which the revolution obtained the fewest suffrages.The royal party, for a long time, preserved there a great69influence, which, augmented by the presence of a numerousbody of English, under the orders of Colonel Campbell,maintained the royal government until the end of the war;thus the patriots had more to suffer in Georgia than elsewhere.

It was not until 1798, that the constitution, which hadbeen adopted in 1785 and amended in 1789, was definitivelyand vigorously enforced by a general assembly ofthe representatives. This constitution is very nearly similarto that of South Carolina.

If Georgia is not yet one of the richest states of theUnion, by the abundance and variety of its productions,the cause should be attributed to the influence of slaveryalone. No country, perhaps, is more favoured by naturethan this, and all the products of the most opposite climatesmay be easily and abundantly drawn from its soil. Theseashores and the adjacent islands produce six hundredpounds of long cotton per acre, of which the medium priceis thirty cents per pound; and the same soil will producefour crops without manure. Sugar may be cultivated inthe same soil, with an equal success. The white mulberrygrows there in such quantities, that Georgia could easilyliberate the United States from an annual tribute of severalmillions which they pay to Europe, if the culture of silkwas confided to skilful and interested hands; that is to say,to the hands of freemen. Tea grows without culture inthe neighbourhood of Savannah; in some choice places,three crops of indigo are annually produced; and, in theinterior, the lands produce abundantly of grain and maize;finally, pulse and fruits of all kinds grow here with anunusual facility. But to fertilize the sources of such abundantriches, there are requisite an industry and activity,rarely possessed by men accustomed to confide the careof their existence to the devotedness of unhappy beingsbrutalised by slavery.[7]

Departure from Milledgeville—Macon—Indian Agency—Meeting withIndians during a Storm—Hamley—M’Intosh’s Tribe—Uchee Creek—BigWarrior—Captain Lewis—Line Creek—Montgomery—Farewellof M’Intosh—Cahawba—State of Alabama—Mobile.

On the 29th of March, after having taken leave of thecitizens of Milledgeville, and expressed our thanks to thecommittee of arrangement, the authorities of the town andthe state, for the kindnesses with which we had beenloaded, we resumed our route with some aides-de-camp ofGovernor Troup, who, with a skilful foresight, had previouslyarranged every thing, so that the general shouldexperience the inconveniences inevitably to be encountered,as little as possible, in a journey across a countrywithout roads, towns, and almost without inhabitants; for,to enter the state of Alabama, we had to traverse that vastterritory which separates it from Georgia, and which isinhabited by the Creek nation; a people which civilizationhas blighted with some of its vices, without havingbeen able to win them from the habits of a wandering andsavage life.

The first day, after travelling for some hours, we arrivedat Macon to dinner, where the general was received withenthusiasm by the citizens, and a number of ladies,whose elegance and manners formed a singular contrast tothe aspect of the country we had traversed. Macon,which is a small and handsome village, tolerably populous,did not exist eighteen months since; it has arisen from themidst of the forests as if by enchantment. It is a civilizedspeck lost in the yet immense domain of the original childrenof the soil. Within a league of this place, we areagain in the bosom of virgin forests; the summits of theseaged trees, which appear as records of the age of the world,waved above our heads, and, when agitated by the winds,gave rise alternately to that shrill or hollow tone, whichChateaubriand has termed the voice of the desert. Theroad we pursued was a kind of gulley or fissure, over the71bottom of which the general’s carriage was with difficultydrawn, and often at the risk of being shattered in pieces;we followed on horseback, and arrived in the evening atthe Indian agency.

This is an isolated habitation in the midst of the forests,built during the last year for the conferences between theIndian chiefs and the commissioners of the United States.It was there that the treaty was formed, by which thetribes inhabiting the left bank of the Mississippi consentedto retire to the right bank, on the payment of a considerablesum of money to them. The year 1827 was assignedas the time for their evacuation, and it is not without sorrowthat the Indians find that it is drawing near; they willrelinquish with regret the neighbourhood of civilized man,although they detest him; and accuse their chiefs of havingbetrayed them in making this cession, which, it is said,has already cost the life of M’Intosh, one of the chiefs whosigned the treaty.

We passed the night at the Indian agency; we had beenexpected the evening before by about a hundred Indians,among whom the name of Lafayette has existed by traditionfor fifty years; but the delays we had met with hadexhausted their patience, and they had gone to prepare forour reception elsewhere. On the second day we had totraverse thirty-two miles over a road which became moreand more difficult. A storm, such as is never seen inEurope, and which, however, I cannot pause to describe,now assailed us, and forced us to halt for some hours. Happilywe found a shelter in a cabin built by an American,not far distant from the road. Some Indian hunters, accustomed,no doubt, to seek refuge here, were drying theirgarments around a large fire; we took our place amongthem without being known, or attracting any particular attention.Mine, on the contrary, was strongly excited bythis interview, the first of the kind I had met with. I hadheard much of the manners of these sons of nature, and,like every inhabitant of a civilized country, I entertainedsuch singular ideas respecting them, that the slightest oftheir gestures, and every minutiæ of their dress and accoutrements,induced an astonishment which the Indiansdid not appear to share in seeing us. As far as I could, bysigns, I proposed a multitude of questions, to which they72replied by a pantomime, which was at once expressive andlaconic. I had heard much of the apathy of Indians as anatural faculty, but also singularly augmented in them byeducation. I wished to make a few experiments on thispoint, but did not know how they would receive them. Iprovoked one of them by hostile gestures; but my anger,though tolerably well assumed, did not appear to excitemore emotion than the tricks of a child would have done.He continued his conversation without attending to me,and his countenance expressed neither fear nor contempt.

After some other trials of the same kind, always receivedwith the same calm indifference, I recurred to signs ofkindness; I offered to the Indians a glass of brandy: thissucceeded better. They emptied it. I showed them somepieces of money, which they took without ceremony. Isoon quitted them, and it appeared to me that we separatedvery good friends. The termination of the storm now permittedus to resume our route, and we arrived at a restingplace rather better than that of the preceding evening.This was a group of cabins constructed of logs, and coveredwith bark. The owner was an American, whom a reverseof fortune had forced to take refuge here, where he carriedon a lucrative trade with the Indians by exchanging goodsfrom the coast for furs. His small farm was composed ofsome acres in tolerable cultivation, a well furnished poultryyard, and the dwelling I have spoken of above. Onarrival, we found two Indians seated before his door, oneyoung, the other middle aged, but both remarkable fortheir beauty and form. They were dressed in a shortfrock, of a light material, fastened around the body by awampum belt. Their heads were wrapped with shawlsof brilliant colours, their leggings of buckskin reachedabove the knee. They arose on the approach of the general,and saluted him, the youngest, to our great astonishment,complimenting him in very good English. We soonlearnt that he had passed his youth in college in the UnitedStates, but that he had withdrawn several years beforefrom his benefactor, to return among his brethren, whosemode of life he preferred to that of civilized man. Thegeneral questioned him much as to the state of the Indiannations. He replied with much clearness and precision.When the last treaty of the United States was spoken of,73his countenance became sombre, he stamped on the ground,and, placing his hand upon his knife, murmured the nameof M’Intosh in such a manner, as to make us tremble forthe safety of that chief; and when we appeared to beastonished, “M’Intosh,” exclaimed he, “has sold the landof his fathers, and sacrificed us all to his avarice. Thetreaty he has concluded in our name, it is impossible tobreak, but the wretch!” He stopped on making this violentexclamation, and shortly afterwards quietly entered onsome other topic of conversation.

Hamley, (the name of the young Indian,) when he foundwe were somewhat rested, proposed to us to visit his house,which he pointed out to us on the slope of a hill at a littledistance. Two of the governor’s aides-de-camp and myselfaccepted the invitation, and followed the two Indians. Onour route they showed to us a fenced enclosure, filled withdeer and fawns, which they called their reserve, and whichserved them for food when they had been unsuccessful inthe chase. Hamley’s cabin adjoined this enclosure. Weentered it. There was a large fire on the hearth, and eveninghaving commenced, the whole building was illuminatedby the flame of the burning pine wood. The furnitureconsisted of two beds, a table, some rude chairs, whilstwicker baskets, fire arms, and bows and arrows, with aviolin, were hanging on the walls. The whole arrangementindicated the presence of man in a half civilizedstate. Hamley’s companion took down the violin, andhandling the instrument with vigour rather than lightnessand grace, played some fragments of Indian airs, whichinduced a desire of dancing in Hamley, but whether fromcourtesy, or from a wish of inducing a comparison whichwould result to his own credit, he begged us to begin.The grave Americans who accompanied me, excused themselves.Being younger, or less reserved, I did not wait fora second invitation, and executed some steps of our nationaldances; this was all that Hamley desired. I sawhim throw off every thing that might embarrass him, seizea large shawl, and triumphantly spring into the centre ofthe apartment, as if he would say, it is now my turn. Hisfirst movements, slow and impassioned, gradually becameanimated, his movements, incomparably bolder and moreexpressive than those of our opera dancers, soon became74so rapid that the eye could scarcely follow them. In theintervals, or when he halted for breath, his steps softlybeating time to the music, his head gently inclined, andgracefully following the movements of his pliant body, hiseyes sparkling with an emotion which reddened the copperyhue of his complexion, the cries that he uttered whenhe awoke from this reverie in order to commence his rapidevolutions, had the most striking effect upon us, which itis impossible to describe.

Two Indian women, whom I afterwards learned wereHamley’s wives, approached the house, during the timethat it resounded with his exertions, and our plaudits, butthey did not enter, and I therefore merely saw them. Theyhad the usual beauty of this race; their dress was composedof a long white tunic, and a scarlet drapery thrownover their shoulders; their long black hair was wholly unconfined.On their neck, they had a necklace of four orfive strings of pearls, and in their ears, those immense silverrings so generally worn by Indian women. I believed, fromtheir reserve, that Hamley had forbidden them to enter,and therefore made no inquiries respecting them. Therewere also some negroes about the house, but they did notappear to be slaves. They were fugitives to whom he hadgranted an asylum, and who repaid his hospitality by theirlabour.

I would willingly have remained several days as Hamley’sguest and companion in the chase; but we wereobliged to continue our journey. We retired, and the nextday, the 31st March, resumed our route. As we plungeddeeper into this country of forests, the Indian soil seemedto efface from our minds those prejudices which inducecivilized man to endeavour to impose his mode of life onall those nations who still adhere to primitive habits, andto consider the invasion of districts in which this pretendedbarbarity still exists, as a noble and legitimate conquest. Itmust, however, be stated, to the praise of the Americans,that it is not by extermination or war, but by treaties, inwhich their intellectual superiority, it is true, exercises aspecies of gentle violence, that they pursue their system ofa*ggrandizement against the Indian tribes to the west andnorth. With them, civilization is not sullied by crimes tobe compared with those of Great Britain in India, but in75rendering this justice to them, we, at the same time, cannothelp feeling a strong interest in the fate of the unhappy Indians.Thus, in meeting at every turn the bark cabin ofthe Creek hunter, now the habitation of peace and savageyet happy ignorance, we could not think without sorrowhow soon it might be overthrown and replaced by thefarm of the white settler. It was on the banks of the Chatahouchethat we met with the first assemblage of Indians,in honour of the general. A great number of women andchildren were to be seen in the woods on the oppositebank, who uttered cries of joy on perceiving us. Thewarriors descended the side of a hill at a little distance,and hastened to that part of the shore at which we wereto disembark. The variety and singular richness of theircostumes presented a most picturesque appearance. Mr.George Lafayette, who was the first that landed, was immediatelysurrounded by men, women, and children, whodanced and leaped around him, touched his hands andclothes with an air of surprise and astonishment, thatcaused him almost as much embarrassment as pleasure.All at once, as if they wished to give their joy a grave andmore solemn expression, they retired, and the men rangedthemselves in front. He who appeared to be the chief ofthe tribe, gave, by an acute and prolonged cry, the signalfor a kind of salute, which was repeated by the wholetroop, which again advanced towards the shore. At themoment the general prepared to step on shore, some of themost athletic seized the small carriage we had with us, andinsisted that the general should seat himself in it, not willing,as they observed, that their father should step on thewet ground. The general was thus carried in a kind ofpalanquin a certain distance from the shore, when the Indianwhom I have spoken of as the chief, approached himand said in English, that all his brothers were happy in beingvisited by one who, in his affection for the inhabitantsof America, had never made a distinction of blood or colour;that he was the honoured father of all the races ofmen dwelling on that continent. After the chief had finishedhis speech, the other Indians all advanced and placedtheir right arm on that of the general, in token of friendship.They would not permit him to leave the carriage,but dragging it along, they slowly ascended the hill they76had previously left, and on which one of their largest villageswas situated.

During our progress I drew near to the Indian chief; Isupposed that as he spoke English, that he, like Hamley,had been educated in the United States, and this I foundto be the case. He was about 28 years of age, of a middleheight; but the symmetry of his limbs was perfect, hisphysiognomy noble, his expression mournful; when he wasnot speaking he fixed his large black eyes, shaded by aheavy brow, steadfastly on the ground. When he told methat he was the eldest son of M’Intosh, I could not recall,without emotions of sorrow, the imprecations I had heardpoured forth against this chief, on the preceding evening.This, in all probability, occasioned the air of depressionand thoughtfulness I remarked in the young man; butwhat I afterwards learned in conversation with him explainedit still more satisfactorily; his mind had been cultivatedat the expense of his happiness. He appreciatedthe real situation of his nation, he saw it gradually becomingweaker, and foresaw its speedy destruction; he felthow much it was inferior to those which surrounded it, andwas perfectly aware that it was impossible to overcomethe wandering mode of life of his people. Their vicinityto civilization had been of no service to them; on the contrary,it had only been the means of introducing vices towhich they had hitherto been strangers; he appeared tohope that the treaty which removed them to another anda desert country, would re-establish the ancient organizationof the tribes, or at least preserve them in the state inwhich they now were.

When we arrived at the brow of the hill we perceivedthe glitter of helmets and swords; troops were drawn upin line along the road. These were not Indians; theywere civilized men, sent by the state of Alabama to escortthe general. The singular triumphal march to which hehad been obliged to submit, now ceased. The Indianssaw with some jealousy the American escort range themselvesround the general; but we approached the village,and they ran on in order to precede us. We there foundthem on our arrival, with their garments thrown off, andprepared to afford us a sight of their warlike games.

We arrived on a large plain, around which were situated77about an hundred Indian huts, crowned by the rich verdureof the dense thickets; one house was distinguishedfor its greater size, it was that of the American agent. Healso kept an inn, and his wife superintended a school for theinstruction of the Indian children. All the men were assembled,deprived of a part of their dress, their faces paintedin a grotesque manner, and some wearing feathers intheir hair, as a mark of distinction. They then announcedto us that there would be a mock fight in honour of theirwhite father. In fact, we soon perceived them separateinto two divisions, and form two camps at the two extremitiesof the place, appoint two leaders, and make preparationsfor a combat. The cry that was uttered by each ofthese troops, and which we were told was the war-whoopof the Indian tribes, is, perhaps, the most extraordinarymodulation of the human voice that can be conceived, andthe effect it produced on the combatants of all ages, wasstill more so. The sport began. They explained the planto us as follows: Each party endeavoured to drive a ballbeyond a certain mark, and that which attained this objectseven times would be the victor. We soon saw the combatants,each armed with two long rackets, rush after thelight projectile, spring over each other in order to reach it,seize it in the air with incredible dexterity, and hurl it beyondthe goal. When the ball was missed by a player, itfell to the ground, when every head was bent, a scene ofgreat confusion ensued, and it was only after a severestruggle that the players succeeded in again throwing it up.In the midst of one of these long combats, whilst all theplayers were bent around the ball, an Indian detached himselffrom the group to some distance, returned on a run,sprung into the air, and after making several somersets,threw himself on the shoulders of the other players, leapedinto the circle, seized the ball, and for the seventh time castit beyond the mark. This player was M’Intosh. Thevictory was obtained by the camp which he commanded;he advanced to receive our congratulations under a showerof applause from a part of the Indian women, whilst thewives of the vanquished appeared to be endeavouring toconsole them.

The general, after this game, which much amused him,visited the interior of some of the huts, and the Indian78school. When we were ready to resume our journey,young M’Intosh re-appeared dressed as an European. Herequested permission from the general to accompany himto Montgomery, where he wished to carry his brother, whowas about ten years of age, in order to place him under thecare of a citizen of Alabama, who had generously offeredto educate him. The general consented to it, and we allset out for Uchee Creek, an American tavern, situated onthe banks of a creek of that name. We arrived at thatplace at an early hour, and visited the neighbourhood,which was charming. Accompanied by M’Intosh, I soonmade an acquaintance with the Indians of that district. Wefound them exercising with the bow. I wished to try myskill, M’Intosh likewise armed himself; he had the armand eye of William Tell. Some proofs of his skill wouldscarcely be credited were I to relate them. I was moststruck with the skill, with which, whilst lying on the ground,he discharged an arrow, which, striking the ground at afew paces distance, made a slight rebound, and flew to animmense distance. This is the mode employed by the Indianswhen they wish to discharge their arrows to a greatdistance without discovering themselves. I tried in vainto accomplish it; each time my arrow, instead of rebounding,buried itself in the earth.

We returned to Uchee Creek, and met an Indian chiefon his way to the tavern. He was on horseback, with awoman behind him. When he arrived within a few pacesof the house, he dismounted and went forward to salute thegeneral, and to make some purchases. During this timehis wife remained with the horse, brought it to him whenhe wished to depart, held the bridle and stirrup when hemounted, and afterwards sprung up behind him. I askedmy companions if this woman was the wife of the Indian,and if such was the condition of the females of the nation.They replied, that in general they were treated as we hadseen; in the agricultural districts they cultivated the ground,among the hunters they carried the game, the culinaryutensils, and other necessary articles, and thus loaded couldtravel great distances, that even maternal cares scarcelyexonerated them from these laborious occupations. However,in the excursions I afterwards made in the environs ofUchee Creek, the condition of the women did not appear79to me as unhappy as I was led to expect. I saw before almostall the houses the women sitting in circles, engaged inweaving baskets or mats, and amusing themselves with thegames and exercises of the young men, and I never remarkedany signs of harshness on the part of the men, or of serviledependence on the part of the women. I was so hospitablyreceived in all the Indian cabins at Uchee Creek,and the country around was so beautiful, that it yet appearsto me as the most beautiful spot I ever visited. FromUchee Creek to the cabin of Big Warrior, which is thenearest resting place, is about a day’s journey, through acountry inhabited by Indians. We several times met partiesof them, and were greatly assisted by them in extricatingourselves from dangerous places in the road, for the stormhad encumbered them, and swelled the streams. On one ofthese occasions, the general received a touching specimenof the veneration these sons of nature held him in. Oneof the torrents we were to cross had risen above the unnailedwooden bridge over which the carriage of the generalwas to proceed. What was our astonishment, on arrivingat the stream, to find a score of Indians, who, holding eachother by the hand, and breast deep in water, marked thesituation of the bridge by a double line. We were wellpleased at receiving this succour, and the only recompensedemanded by the Indians, was to have the honour of takingthe general by the hand, whom they called their whitefather, the envoy of the Great Spirit, the great warrior fromFrance, who came in former days to free them from the tyrannyof the English. M’Intosh, who interpreted theirdiscourse to us, also expressed to them the general’s andour own good wishes. The village of the Big Warrior isthus named on account of the extraordinary courage andgreat stature of the Indian who was its chief. We arrivedthere at a late hour; the chief had been dead some time;the council of old men had assembled to name his successor,and had designated one of his sons, remarkable for thesame strength of body, as worthy of filling his place. Thisson had much conversation with Mr. George Lafayette; heexpressed himself in English, and astonished us by the singularapathy with which he spoke of the death of his father.But the Indians have not the slightest idea of what we callgrief and mourning. Death does not appear an evil to them,80either as regards the person who has quitted this life, orthose who are thus separated from him. The son of BigWarrior only appeared to regret that the death of his father,which had occurred a short time before, did not permit himto dispose of his inheritance, and to present one of thedresses of this celebrated chief to the general.

We only passed one night with the family of Big Warrior;the next day we arrived at Line Creek, that is to say,at the frontier of the Indian country. We were receivedthere by an American who had married the daughter of aCreek chief, and had adopted the Indian mode of life. Hewas a Captain Lewis, formerly in the army of the UnitedStates; his house was commodious, and was furnished withelegance for an Indian cabin. Captain Lewis, who is distinguishedfor his knowledge and character, appeared to usto exercise great influence over the Indians; he had assembleda great number, well armed and mounted, to act as anescort to the general. One of the neighbouring chiefs cameat the head of a deputation to compliment the general. Hisdiscourse, which appeared studied, was rather long, andwas translated to us by an interpreter. He commenced byhigh eulogiums on the skill and courage the general hadformerly displayed against the English; the most brilliantevents of that war was recalled and recounted in a poeticaland somewhat pompous strain. He terminated somewhatin these words: “Father, we had long since heard that youhad returned to visit our forests and our cabins; you, whomthe Great Spirit formerly sent over the great lake to destroythose enemies of man, the English, clothed in bloodyraiment. Even the youngest amongst us will say to theirdescendants, that they have touched your hand and seenyour figure, they will also behold you, for you are protectedby the Great Spirit from the ravages of age—you mayagain defend us if we are attacked.”

The general replied, through the interpreter, to thesecompliments of the Indians; he again counselled them tobe prudent and temperate; recommended their living inharmony with the Americans, and to always consider themas their friends and brothers; he told them that he shouldalways think of them, and would pray for the welfare oftheir families and the glory of their warriors. We nowdirected our course to the stream which separates the81Creek country from the state of Alabama. The Indiansunder Captain Lewis, mounted on small horses as lightand nimble as deer, some armed with bows and arrows,and others with tomahawks, followed us in a long file, therear of which was hidden in the darkness of the forest.On arriving at the brink of the stream, they turned back,uttering loud cries; some of the chiefs, however, bid us afinal adieu as we left their territory.

We passed the night on the banks of Line Creek, in a smallvillage of the same name, almost entirely inhabited by personswhom the love of gain had assembled from all partsof the globe, in the midst of these deserts, to turn to theirown profit the simplicity and above all the new wants ofthe unfortunate natives. These avaricious wretches, whowithout scruple poison the tribes with intoxicating liquors,and afterwards ruin them by duplicity and overreaching,are the most cruel and dangerous enemies of the Indiannations, whom, at the same time, they accuse of beingrobbers, idlers, and drunkards. If the limits to which Ihad determined to restrain my narrative had not alreadybeen overstepped, I could easily show, that these viceswith which they reproach the children of the forest, arethe result of the approach of civilization, and also in howmany instances they are surpassed by the whites in crueltyand want of faith. I will content myself with citing buttwo facts from the thousands, which are an eternal stigmaon men so proud of the whiteness of their skin, and whocall themselves civilized.

A short time since, a trader, living in the state of Alabama,went into the Creek country for the purposes of hisbusiness. Having met with one of the chiefs of the nation,he bargained with him for peltries; but, as the conditionshe proposed were all disadvantageous to the Indian, toinduce him the more readily to consent to them, he intoxicatedhim with whiskey. After the bargain was concluded,they set out together for the nearest village. On the way,the Indian reflected on what he had done, and perceivedthat he had been duped; he wished to enter into someother arrangement with the trader, but the discussion sooncaused a violent quarrel, which ended by the Indian strikinghis adversary so violent a blow with his tomahawk, asto stretch him dead at his feet. Twenty-four hours afterwards,82on the first complaint of the whites, the murdererwas arrested by his own tribe, who, after having assembledtheir great council, pronounced him guilty of a base assassination,in thus having killed a white who was withoutarms or means of defence. They then conducted him tothe banks of Line Creek, where they had requested thewhites to assemble to witness the justice they renderedthem, and shot him in their presence.

The evening of our arrival at Line Creek, I went into astore to make some purchases, and whilst there, an Indianentered and asked for twelve and a half cents worth ofwhiskey. The owner of the shop received the money,and told him to wait a moment, as the concourse of buyerswas very great. The Indian waited patiently for a quarterof an hour, after which he demanded his whiskey.The trader appeared astonished, and told him if he wantedwhiskey he must first pay him for it. “I gave you twelveand a half cents a few moments since,” said the Indian. Thepoor wretch had scarcely pronounced these words, whenthe trader sprung forward, seized him by the ears, and,assisted by one of his men, brutally turned him out of theshop. I saw him give the money, and was convinced ofthe honesty of the one and the rascality of the other. Ifelt strongly indignant, and notwithstanding the delicacy ofmy situation, I would have stept forward to interfere, butthe whole scene passed so rapidly that I hardly had timeto say a few words. I went out to see what the Indianwould do. I found him a few steps from the house, wherehe had been checked by his melancholy emotions. Aninstant afterwards, he crossed his arms on his breast, andhurried towards his own country with rapid strides.When he arrived on the margin of the stream, he plungedin and crossed it without appearing to perceive that thewater reached above his knees. On attaining the otherside, he stopped, turned round, and elevating his eyestowards heaven, he extended his hand towards the territoryof the whites, in a menacing manner, and uttered someenergetic exclamations in his own language. Doubtless,at that moment he invoked the vengeance of heavenon his oppressors; a vengeance that would have beenjust, but his prayer was in vain. Poor Indians! youare pillaged, beaten, poisoned or excited by intoxicating83liquors, and then you are termed savages! Washingtonsaid, “Whenever I have been called upon to decide betweenan Indian and a white man, I have always foundthat the white had been the aggressor.” Washington wasright.

The conduct of the American government is of anentirely different character, as regards the Indian tribes.It not only protects them against individual persecution,and sees that the treaties made with them by the neighbouringstates are not disadvantageous to them, and arefaithfully adhered to, but it also provides for their wantswith a paternal solicitude. It is not a rare circ*mstancefor congress to vote money and supplies to those tribes,whom a deficient harvest or unforeseen calamity haveexposed to famine.

We quitted Line Creek on the 3d of April, and the sameday General Lafayette was received at Montgomery, bythe inhabitants of that village, and by the governor of thestate of Alabama, who had come from Cahawba with allhis staff and a large concourse of citizens, who hadassembled from great distances to accompany him. Wepassed the next day at Montgomery, and left it on thenight of the 4th and 5th, after a ball, at which we had thepleasure of seeing Chilli M’Intosh dance with severalbeautiful women, who certainly had little idea that theywere dancing with a savage. The parting of M’Intoshwith the general was a melancholy one. He appearedoverwhelmed with sinister presentiments. After havingquitted the general and his son, he met me in the courtyard;he stopped, placed my right arm on his, and elevatinghis left hand towards heaven, “Farewell,” said he,“always accompany our father and watch over him. Iwill pray to the Great Spirit also to watch over him, andgive him a speedy and safe return to his children in France.His children are our brothers; he is our father. I hopethat he will not forget us.” His voice was affected, hiscountenance sad, and the rays of the moon falling obliquelyon his dark visage, gave a solemnity to his farewell withwhich I was deeply moved. I wished to reply to him,but he quitted me precipitately and disappeared.

At two o’clock in the morning, we embarked on theAlabama, on board the steam-boat Anderson, which had84been richly and commodiously prepared for the general,and provided with a band of musicians sent from NewOrleans. All the ladies of Montgomery accompanied uson board, where we took leave of them; and the momentthe reports of the artillery announced our departure,immense fires were lighted on the shore. Our voyage asfar as the Tombigbee was delicious. It is difficult toimagine any thing more romantic than the elevated, gravelly,and oftentimes wooded shores of the Alabama.During the three days we were on it, the echoes repeatedthe patriotic airs executed by our Louisiania musicians.We stopped one day at Cahawba, where the officers ofgovernment of the state of Alabama had, in concert withthe citizens, prepared entertainments for General Lafayette,as remarkable for their elegance and good taste, astouching by their cordiality and the feelings of which theywere the expression. Among the guests with whom wesat down to dinner, we found some countrymen whompolitical events had driven from France. They mentionedto us, that they had formed part of the colony at ChampD’Asile. They now lived in a small town they hadfounded in Alabama, to which they had given the nameGallopolis. I should judge that they were not in a state ofgreat prosperity. I believe their European prejudices,and their inexperience in commerce and agriculture, willprevent them from being formidable rivals of the Americansfor a length of time.

Cahawba, the seat of government of Alabama, is a flourishingtown, whose population, although as yet small, promisesto increase rapidly, from its admirable situation atthe confluence of the Cahawba and Alabama.

The state of Alabama, which, like Mississippi, was formerlypart of Georgia, and with which its early historyis intimately connected, received a territorial governorfrom congress in 1817, and was admitted into the federationas an independent state in 1816. Its population, whichin 1810 was only 10,000, had risen to 67,000 in 1817, andis at present 128,000. In this estimate of the populationI do not include the Indian tribes of Choctaws, Cherokees,and Chickasaws, residing in the east and west of the state.

From Cahawba we descended the river to Claiborne, asmall fort on the Alabama. The general was induced by85the intreaties of the inhabitants to remain a few hours,which were passed in the midst of the most touching demonstrationsof friendship. Mr. Dellet, who had beenappointed by his fellow citizens to express their sentiments,acquitted himself with an eloquence we were astonished tomeet in a spot, which, but a short time before, only resoundedwith the savage cry of the Indian hunter.

A little below Claiborne, I remarked that the banks ofthe Alabama were much lower; when we had passed themouth of the Tombigbee, we found ourselves in the middleof low marshy meadows, but apparently very fertile.Finally, we arrived on the 7th of April, in Mobile bay, atthe bottom of which is situated a city of the same name.

The distance we had traversed in three days, and whichwas more than three hundred miles, on account of thewindings of the river, formerly required a month or sixweeks in ascending, and half the time in descending. Thisshows what a prodigious revolution the application ofsteam to navigation will effect in the commercial relationsof a country.

The city of Mobile, which is the oldest establishment inthe state, is very advantageously situated for commerce, ona beautiful plain, elevated more than twenty feet above thegeneral level of the water. This town had languished fora long time, under the despotism of the Spanish inquisition,and the wretched administration of the French government.It has often been devastated by the yellow fever. At present,all its wounds are healed; a few years of libertyhave sufficed to render it prosperous. When the Americanstook possession, it did not contain more than twohundred houses; at present, its population is more than1800 souls. Formerly it scarcely exported four hundredbales of cotton; this year it has despatched upwards ofsixty thousand.

The arrival of the steam-boat in the bay, was announcedby discharges of artillery from Fort Conde; and when wereached the wharf at Mobile, the general found the committeeof the corporation and all the population assembledto receive him. He was conducted to the centre of thetown under a triumphal arch, the four corners of whichwere adorned with the flags of Mexico, the republics ofSouth America and Greece. In the centre was that of the86United States. Here he was complimented by Mr. Garrowin the name of the city, and in presence of the municipalbody. He was then led to an immense hall, expressly constructedfor his reception. He there found all the ladies,to whom he was presented by the governor; after whichMr. Webb addressed him in the name of the state. In hisspeech, the orator retraced with much truth, the debasedsituation into which despotism and ignorance had formerlyplunged the city of Mobile, and the rich territory that surroundedit; he then painted the rapid and increasing progressthat liberty and republican institutions had producedin the arts, in industry and commerce, which had now renderedthese very spots rich and prosperous; he attributedthis happy change to the glorious and triumphant exertionsof the revolutionary patriots, whose courage and constancyhad been sustained by the noble example of Lafayette; andhe terminated by expressing his regret that the efforts ofthe French patriots had not resulted in consequencesequally beneficial to their country.

In returning his thanks to the orator and the citizens ofAlabama, the general took a rapid survey of the strugglesfor liberty in which he had borne so important a part, andconcluded by expressing his deep conviction of the necessityof the closest and most intimate union among thestates.

The inhabitants of Mobile, hoping that the general wouldpass some days with them, had made great preparations forentertainments to him, but the most part were rendereduseless. Limited in his time, he was obliged to yield tothe solicitations of the deputation from New Orleans, whopressed him to depart the next morning. Nevertheless heaccepted a public dinner, a ball and a masonic celebration;after which we went on board the vessel which was to takehim to New Orleans, to obtain a few hours of that repose,which a day filled with so many pleasant emotions hadrendered absolutely necessary.

Departure from Mobile—Gulf of Mexico—Passage of the Balize—Landingat the entrenchments near New Orleans—Entrance intothe city—Entertainments and Public Ceremonies—Battle of NewOrleans.

The vessel on board of which we had retired, on leavingthe ball, was the Natchez, an excellent and handsomesteam-boat, sent by the city of New Orleans to transportthe general from Mobile to the shores of the Mississippi.An experienced captain, Mr. Davis, commanded her; shehad on board the Louisiania deputation, at the head ofwhich was Mr. Duplantier, an old friend and companion inarms of the general. At the break of day, cannon wereheard, at which signal we weighed anchor. The generalstationed on the deck, received the farewell of the citizenswho pressed in crowds to the shore, and testified their sorrowby expressive gestures and a gloomy silence. In halfan hour, the city of Mobile disappeared from the horizon,which enlarged around us, and in a short time thesmoke of the artillery, tinged by the rays of the rising sun,also became invisible. When night returned, it found usin the Gulf of Mexico.

To reach New Orleans, we might choose between tworoutes; either behind Dauphin, Horn, Dog, Ship, or Catislands, traversing lakes Borgne and Pontchartrain, and disembarkinga few miles in the rear of the city, or else boldlycross the gulf to the mouth of the Mississippi, pass theBalize and ascend the river. Our captain, confident ofthe solidity of his vessel, decided on the latter plan, whichwas not unattended with danger, but it gained us a wholeday. We soon repented of his determination. A stormarose in a short time. The motion of the vessel becameso disagreeable that we were obliged to lie down to avoidthe sea sickness which attacked almost all of us. Duringthe night, the wind greatly augmented, and the waves becameso high, that several of them entering the ports, inundatedthe cabin and our beds. The noise of the wind,88waves, and engine, with the creaking of the vessel, were sohorrible, that we expected to founder every moment. Atbreak of day I ascended to the deck, from whence I beheldthe most imposing and awful spectacle; we arrived at theBalize. We could not avoid feeling a strong emotion atthe sight of this magnificent river, whose rapid stream andprodigious breadth announced rather a conqueror than atributary of the ocean. Its waves repelling, to a great distance,those of the sea, heaped on the low islands at itsmouth, thousands of immense trunks of trees, which, afterhaving flourished for ages under the polar circle, were nowdecaying under the burning sky of Mexico, and feeding anew vegetation with their remains. Enormous alligatorsof a sinister appearance and sluggish gait, attached to thefloating trunks of trees, menaced the navigator, and seemedto dispute the entrance of the river with him. For a longtime after we had entered the Mississippi we thought ourselvesin another sea, so distant are its shores, and so tumultuousare its waves. It was not until after some hoursthat it became sufficiently narrow for us to perceive itsmuddy banks, or that the stream diminished in swiftness.

In the morning we passed fort Plaquemine, from whichwe were saluted with thirteen guns, and night again surprisedus before we could perceive the walls of NewOrleans. No variety in the vegetation is perceptible forsixty miles from the Balize. Hitherto nothing was to beseen but cypresses covered with the sombre tillandsia,called by the natives of the country, Spanish beard. Thisparasitic plant, which forms a long and dense drapery onthe trees, has a more melancholy appearance, from its onlygrowing in countries subject to the yellow fever. It is saidto afford food to those animals which seek a shelter in thewoods during the winter. The inhabitants of Louisianaemploy it to stuff matrasses and cushions; for these purposes,after having washed it in an alkaline solution, theybeat it till the husk is detached; when it is dry it has theappearance of long black hair. It is so durable as to beconsidered incorruptible. It is employed with success inbuilding, mixed with mortar or tenacious earth.

About midnight, I went on deck for a short time; thenight was dark, the sky charged with thick clouds, and theair filled with a hoarse noise. The batteries at New Orleans89were then firing a salute of a hundred guns, to announcethat the day on which the guest of the nation wouldarrive, was commencing.

Next morning we awoke near those famous lines wheretwelve thousand picked English troops were overthrownby a few hundred men, the half of whom bore arms for thefirst time. Astonished at the cries of Vive la liberté, vivel’ami de l’Amerique! vive Lafayette! in the French language,we hastened on deck. What was our surprise onseeing the shore covered with French uniforms! For aninstant we believed that we were transported back to thebosom of our country, once more freed, and our heartsbeat with joy. General Lafayette disembarked in themidst of the thunder of artillery, and the acclamations ofan immense multitude, who, regardless of the badness ofthe weather and the distance from the town, crowded thelevee. He was received by a numerous escort of cavalry,and by the twelve marshals who had been appointed to directthe procession. Leaning on the arm of his ancientcompanion in arms, Mr. Duplantier, and of General Villeré,he proceeded to the house of Montgomery, which had beenJackson’s head quarters on the day when he covered himselfwith glory by his admirable defence of his lines. Thegovernor of the state there waited for him, and receivedhim in the name of the people of Louisiana.

The speech of the governor, depicting Frenchmen enjoyinga liberty which is still considered in France as problematical,made a deep impression on the general, and hereplied to it with much emotion.

At the conclusion of his reply, every one that could forcean entrance into the house were presented to him in turn.There were a great number of the veterans of the revolution,and among others, Colonel Bruian-Bruin, who hadserved at the siege of Quebec, where the brave GeneralMontgomery perished; Judge Gerrard, who fought atYorktown, Colonel Grenier, who, after having gloriouslyassisted in the three revolutions of America, France, andColombia, still preserved at seventy years of age, all thecourage and fire of youth. A great number of ladies alsocame down to meet the general, and offered him their congratulationsthrough Mr. Marigny, on his safe arrival inLouisiana. After all the presentations had been gone90through, the procession was formed, and, notwithstandingthe violence of the rain, we took up the line of march tothe city. We advanced but slowly, from the denseness ofthe crowd, which, as we approached the city, blocked upboth the road and the levee. When we arrived at the outskirtsof the town we met with bodies of troops drawn upin two lines, through which we passed to the sound of martialmusic. Notwithstanding the badness of the weather,the general proceeded along these lines on foot, and beforehe again entered the carriage returned his thanks to thecommanding officers. The procession again moved on,augmented by the troops falling into the rear, and, as it advanced,the crowd became still greater in spite of the continuanceof the storm. This immense concourse of people,the view of the triple row of houses adorned with hangings,bordering the river side, the sound of the artillery andbells, and the prolonged acclamations of the whole population,produced a sensation which it is difficult to describe;at last, in the midst of these testimonies of strong affection,the general arrived at the barrier of the public square, andwas conducted by the committee of arrangement under atriumphal arch of admirable architecture and excellent design.This monument was sixty feet in height, forty ofwhich were below the springing of the arch, by fifty-eightin breadth; the arcade was twenty feet wide, and twenty-fivelong; it rested on a socle imitating Sera-Veza marble;the base, forming a pedestal of green Italian marble, wasdecorated with colossal statues of Justice and Liberty. Thisallegorical basem*nt supported an arch of the doric order,adorned with four coupled columns on each face. Thekey-stones were composed of twenty-four stones, each decoratedwith a gilt star, united by a fillet, on which was engravedthe word, Constitution, thus representing the twenty-fourstates connected by one common tie. The pediment,in imitation of yellow Verona marble, supported two figuresof Fame with trumpets, and carrying banners entwinedwith laurel, having on them the names of Lafayette andWashington; the whole was surmounted by the nationaleagle. The upper socle supported an entablature of sevenfeet, on which was inscribed, in English and French, “Agrateful republic dedicates this monument to Lafayette.”On the top of the monument was a group representing91Wisdom resting her hand on a bust of the immortal Franklin,and the four angles were decorated with rich nationaltrophies. The names of the signers of the declaration ofindependence, and those of officers who had distinguishedthemselves during the war of the revolution, were inscribedon various parts of the arch. This beautiful edifice, designedby Mr. Pilié, and executed by Mr. Fogliardi, presenteda striking appearance, and the reliefs had an admirableeffect.

Under this monument the general was received by themunicipal body, at the head of whom was the mayor, Mr.Roffignac, who addressed him in the name of the citizensof New Orleans.

In expressing his thanks to Mr. Roffignac, the generaldid not permit such an occasion to escape him, of payinga tribute of esteem to the memory of the father of thisworthy magistrate. “On my entrance into this capital,”said he, “I feel penetrated with gratitude for the receptionI have met with from the people of New Orleans and itsworthy mayor, whose name recalls to a cotemporary ofhis father’s, recollections of courage and loyalty.” Mr.Roffignac appeared extremely affected by this testimony ofthe general’s to the exalted character of his father, and thetears that escaped from his eyes proved the depth of hisfeelings.

After leaving the triumphal arch, the general was conducted,amidst the acclamations of an immense crowd,to the city hall, where he was complimented by Mr. Prieurin the name of the city council; from here we went to thehotel of the municipality, where our quarters had beenprepared, and which the people of New Orleans designatedby the name of the “Lafayette house.” After taking afew moments of repose, the general went out on a balconyto review the troops. All the detachments that passedwere remarkable for the elegance of their uniform, andthe exactness of their discipline. The grenadiers, the voltigeurs,Union guards, chasseurs, New Orleans guards, Lafayetteguards, each in turn attracted the attention of thegeneral. But when, in the rear of the riflemen, whosename recalls so many recollections of gallantry, he perceiveda file of a hundred Choctaws, marching, accordingto the Indian custom, in a single line, he was much gratified92to see, that, by a delicate attention, they had shownhim that his name was familiar to the warriors of the mostdistant nations, and that they had admitted among theirtroops, these brave Indians, who had been the allies of theAmericans in the Seminole war, and, who, for nearly amonth past, had been encamped near the city, in order tosee the “great warrior,” “the brother of their great fatherWashington.”

The next day, the general received the visits of the vicepresident of the house of representatives, and of thosemembers of the legislature who were then in the capital,and immediately afterwards the gentlemen of the bar,headed by Mr. Derbigny, who had been chosen their orator,were presented to him. In a discourse filled with noblethoughts, and pronounced with a touching eloquence, Mr.Derbigny eulogised with delicacy and address, that rectitudeof mind, and firmness of character, which, during politicaltempests, had always guided Lafayette in the pathof justice, and preserved him from participating in the excessesof party.

In his reply, the general, carefully avoiding any allusionto the eulogies that had been heaped upon him, confined himselfto the consideration of the general interests of Louisiana,and the individual exertions of those who complimentedhim; he felicitated the citizens of that state, afterhaving been governed by the criminal laws of France andSpain, that they gradually ameliorated them, and were stilloccupied in perfecting this part of their code, to such adegree, that it might even serve as a guide to the rest ofthe United States, whose criminal laws are already so superiorto those of every other people.

Being strongly urged to visit both the French and Americantheatres on the same evening, the general decidedby lot which he would attend the first; chance was infavour of the American. We went there at seven o’clock,and were received with an enthusiasm that cannot be described;they gave an appropriate piece, of which neitherhe nor the audience could appreciate the merit, as everyeye was attracted by the hero of Yorktown, who completelywithdrew all attention from the representation ofthe Prisoner of Olmutz. He afterwards went to theFrench theatre, where they were impatiently expecting his93appearance. When he entered, the violence of the plaudits,and the repeated cries of “Vive Lafayette,” suspendedthe representation. Every body rose; it was like Themistoclesappearing at the Olympic games: at last, calm beingre-established, the general took his seat in the box that hadbeen prepared for him, and saw with pleasure the last actof that charming comedy, L’Ecole des Vieillards, whichseemed to me to be as much relished by my former countrymen,the Americans of Louisiana, as by the inhabitantsof Paris. Before he retired, the general heard an odewhich was performed to his honour, all the allusions ofwhich were applauded with enthusiasm.

In the course of Tuesday morning, a deputation of theSpanish emigrants and refugees presented themselves tocompliment the general; and, above all, to testify theirgratitude for the manner in which he opposed, in the Chamberof Deputies in France, the invasion of Spain, and thedestruction of the liberal constitution.

The general, whose principles had led him to oppose,with all his energy, a measure disapproved of by France—ameasure which had produced such disastrous results toSpain, and the heroic victims of which were now beforehim, was deeply affected by the expressions of gratitudenow showered upon him; and, in an eloquent and impressivereply, paid his tribute of esteem, admiration, and regret,to the memory of the unfortunate Riego; he hadalready, on more than one occasion, openly expressed hisopinion on the unhappy death of that generous martyr toliberty, and the whole American nation had partaken ofthe same feelings, for the consistent and courageous defenderof the revolution in the peninsula.

On the following day, many other deputations waitedon General Lafayette, and expressed to him their attachment,and devotion to his principles. Among them werethose of the militia staff, of the medical society, of theclergy, and of the free blacks, who, in 1815, courageouslyassisted in the defence of the city; and our two last eveningswere occupied, the one by a public ball, and the otherby a masonic dinner. I will not attempt to describe theseentertainments, which, from the beauty, elegance, andamiability of the ladies, the enthusiasm and frank cordialityof the citizens, the sedulous and delicate attentions of94the magistrates, the richness and profusion of the details,equalled any thing we had ever met with.

Nevertheless, in the midst of the pleasures thus affordedhim by the Louisianians, the general experienced momentsof inquietude and sorrow. Sinister rumours reached him;he was told of a serious dispute between the staff and theofficers of the militia, on the subject of certain prerogativesof the legion, denied by one, and insisted on by the otherswith equal warmth, which might produce bloody resultsafter the departure of him whose presence was a curb evenon the most headstrong. In so serious an affair he did nothesitate on using all his influence to reconcile citizens,whom a moment of error and a false point of honour hadtemporarily divided; he, therefore, invited all the officers ofthe different corps to meet at his house. When they arrived,he told them that they were, doubtless, aware of his reasonsin thus bringing them together; that he was informed of whathad passed, and the evil consequences that would ensue;he observed, that he felt that he was the cause, howeverunwillingly, and could he have foreseen such unpleasantcirc*mstances, he should have written to decline their invitation.He begged them to consider the injurious reportsit would occasion as regarded all parties, and concluded bybegging that they would accept of him as a mediator.

One of the superior officers immediately advanced, andwith an honourable frankness said to him, “General, I placemy honour in your hands, and now agree to whatever youmay dictate.” The eldest of the complainants then observed,“General, I also confide my honour, and that ofmy comrades, who freely agree with me, in your keeping.”The general took a hand of each of these brave men, andhaving united them, had the satisfaction of seeing the happiestconcord established between men, who an instant beforehad renounced the pleasing title of brothers in arms.This interesting scene had many witnesses, who soon promulgatedthe details. The news of it was received withastonishing enthusiasm, as it was a sincere reconciliationbetween all that Louisiana cherished and revered.

General Lafayette had intended to visit the scene of thebattle of the 8th of January, but the continuance of stormyweather, and the necessity for his complying in two orthree days to all the kind invitations that were heaped upon95him, obliged him to relinquish the idea. A colonel of the staff,who witnessed the chagrin this sacrifice occasioned me, hadthe goodness to propose that I should accompany him,whilst the general was paying some private visits. I acceptedhis invitation with eagerness, and we immediately set outin a carriage he sent for. On the way he informed me thathe was born in France; that placed, from his birth, in theprivileged class of society, he had, from his infancy, beenbrought up in the aristocratic prejudices of his caste; andthat, although very young at the epoch of the French revolution,he believed it his duty to defend the rights of a fewagainst the natural and sacred rights of the many, and thathe had joined the Vendeans. “Then,” said he, “I believedin the legitimacy of an absolute monarchy, and in the hereditarysuccession of virtue, with all the fervour of ignorance,and I at first fought for them, with all the courageand devotion of fanaticism; but the campaign had not terminatedbefore my reason, bursting the bonds with whicheducation had loaded it, taught me, that instead of combating,as I had believed, for justice and truth, I was merelythe instrument of a few men, determined to sacrifice everything, even their country, to their own private interests,and I sheathed my sword, which I ought never to havedrawn in so unjust, so absurd a cause.” He went on tosay, that he would have re-entered France, but was deterredby the scenes of bloodshed and confusion then so prevalentin that country. He, therefore, sought in otherlands that happiness he was denied at home. After traversingall Europe, and every where finding the same criminalalliance of royalty, nobility, and clergy, against thewelfare and interests of the people, he finally settled in theUnited States. He added, “I had only lived at New Orleansa short time, when, in 1815, the inveterate enemies ofthe liberty of others in both hemispheres presented themselvesbefore that city. I flew to arms, happy in finding anoccasion of proving my gratitude to my new country, andmy sincere attachment to the principles which governed it,and I am happy in being able to say, that my presence wasnot wholly useless on the field of battle we are about tovisit.”

My companion had scarcely uttered these words, whenour carriage stopped, and we stept out near the extreme96right of the lines. Before examining them, the colonel hadthe goodness to explain to me the operations that precededand brought on the battle of the 8th. I understood, fromthese details, how difficult it had been for General Jackson,with the handful of men he had at his disposition, to opposethe landing and rapid progress of an army of 15,000 men,or quadruple his own.

The position chosen by the American general to wait forreinforcements, and to arrest the advance of so formidablean enemy, appeared to me to be very judicious. He threwup entrenchments about five miles below the city, along anold canal, the left of which was lost in the depths of aswampy wood, whilst the right rested on the river. Thetotal length of this line was about eight hundred toises, butas three hundred toises of the left were unassailable, theenemy was confined in his attack to a front of about fivehundred toises, and obliged to advance in full view over aperfectly level plain. Nevertheless, whether from wantof time, or want of reflection, General Jackson committedtwo serious errors; the first was in erecting his entrenchmentin a straight line, and at right angles to the river, sothat he not only deprived himself of the advantage of crossfires, but he also exposed himself, if the English, more skilfulor fortunate, had sent a few vessels up the river in therear of his lines; he exposed himself, I say, to the danger ofhaving had his whole line enfiladed by the enemy’s artillery.The other fault was, erecting his second line at so greata distance from the first, that if this had been forced, hewould never have been enabled to have gained the other,and his troops would have been cut to pieces in the interval.These two faults would have sufficed, as may readilybe supposed, to compromit the safety of an army more numerousand better disciplined than that of General Jackson;but the destiny of American liberty, or rather the supernaturalcourage of the citizens, who, on that day,fought for the preservation of their independence, andthe safety of their families, with the inflexible firmnessof Jackson himself, shaded with the laurels of a most brilliantvictory those faults which would have destroyed a lesspatriotic army.

I will record the details, which were given me withgreat clearness and precision, of all the operations that preceded97that glorious day. I refer those who wish to studythem to the excellent memoir of Mr. Lacarriere Latour,and to the equally distinguished accounts of Messrs. Brackenridgeand Mac Fee; but I cannot resist the desire of nowretracing some of the most brilliant acts which saved Louisiana,and immortalized its defenders.

Notwithstanding all his exertions, General Jackson wasunable to collect for the defence of his entrenchments morethan 3,200 men, and fourteen pieces of cannon of differentcalibers, pressed for time, he had been obliged to form theupper part of his works with bales of cotton, brought downfrom the city. He remained twenty-four hours in this position,expecting an attack every instant, when, on the8th of January, at break of day, he perceived the Englisharmy, 12,000 strong, advancing on him in three columns,the most formidable of which menaced that part of his leftwing, defended by the Tennessee and Kentucky militia.Each soldier, besides his arms, carried fascines or a scalingladder, and marched in the most profound silence. TheAmericans permitted them to advance within half cannonshot, and then opened on them a terrible fire of artillery,to which the English replied by three cheers, and the flightof some Congreve rockets, and then hurried their march,closing their ranks as they were mowed down by the shot.This coolness and determination, which seemed as if itwould ensure them a speedy victory, did not last long. Themoment they arrived within musket shot, the Tennesseansand Kentuckians commenced a fire of small arms, whichinstantly broke their columns, and forced them to seek forshelter behind some thickets, which covered their right. Itis true, that infantry never kept up so constant and destructivea fire, as that of these intrepid American militia. Themen, arranged six deep, loaded the arms, and rapidly passedthem to the front rank, composed of able marksmen,each of whose balls carried certain death to the enemy.

Whilst the English officers, with a courage worthy of abetter cause and of a happier destiny, endeavoured torally their scattered troops, to lead them to a freshassault, an American artilleryman, in the battery commandedby Lieutenant Spotts, perceived in the plain,a group of officers, agitated and dismayed, carryingoff some one with some difficulty. “It is perhaps the98commander-in-chief and only wounded,” exclaimed he,“he must not escape so.” He levelled his piece againstthem, fired, and Packenham the English commanderwas killed in the arms of his friends. The desire forrevenge now rallied the English; officers and soldierspressed forward in a new column, led on with fury byKean and Gibbs, the successors of Packenham. But thefire of the Americans redoubled in intensity and precision;Kean and Gibbs successively fell, the one mortally,the other dangerously wounded, and the column againbroken, disappeared, leaving only its wreck on the plain.

Whilst in the centre of the line the American troopswere thus crushing their adversaries, without the loss of asingle man, fortune seemed as if she wished to try them onthe right by a reverse. Twelve hundred English, led bya daring chief, rapidly advanced along the river, and unexpectedlyfell on a small redoubt, defended by a companyof riflemen and one of the 7th regiment. The Americans,surprised at this point, at first retired in some disorder.General Jackson, whose vigilant eye let nothing escape,at this decisive moment perceived an English officermounted on the entrenchments, brandishing in one handhis sabre, and with the other assisting his soldiers to scalethe rampart. Jackson hastened to the spot, met therunaways, arrested their flight, and, in a terrible voice,demanded of their commander who had given him ordersto retreat. “The enemy has forced our entrenchments,”replied the captain. “Well,” answered Jackson in asevere voice, “go back and with your bayonets force themout.” This order was immediately executed. In an instantthe English, who at first thought themselves victors,fell under the blows of the Americans. Among the slain,was the intrepid Colonel Rennie, an ancient French emigrantwho had entered the English service; the same thathad been seen so boldly surmounting the rampart, aidingand encouraging his soldiers in the assault.

This battle, which decided the fate of New Orleans, andperhaps even of Louisiana, only lasted three hours, andcost the Americans but seven men killed and six wounded,whilst the English left near three thousand men and fourteenpieces of cannon on the field. General Lambert, theonly one of the English generals in a state to command,99ordered a retreat, and hastened to seek shelter for himselfand the wreck of his army, on board Admiral Cochran’sfleet, who, the evening before, had said with his accustomedboasting, that if he were ordered to attack the Americanlines, he would carry them in less than half an hour, withtwo thousand sailors, sabre in hand.

Thus, a small army, composed of citizens hastily collected,and commanded by a general whose military careerhad just commenced, beheld an English army, whichpassed for one of the bravest and most experienced inEurope, and which boasted it had expelled the Frenchfrom Spain, fall before its patriotic efforts.

When I returned to the city, I found General Lafayettesurrounded by numbers of ladies and citizens of all ranks,who, knowing that he would leave them the next morning,mournfully came to bid him farewell, and once more totake him by the hand. In the crowd I remarked someecclesiastics, and among them a capuchin, whose dressbeing new to me had attracted my attention on the day ofour arrival. The account I heard of him interested mestrongly, and may perhaps be equally so to my readers.

Father Anthony, for such is his name, is a venerablecapuchin friar of the order of St. Francis, and has residedin Louisiana for many years. Animated by an ardent andsincere piety, Father Anthony prays in silence for all theworld without asking prayers of any one. Placed in themidst of a population composed of different sects, he doesnot think it right to trouble their consciences by endeavoursto gain proselytes. Sometimes, as being a capuchin,Father Anthony asks alms, but it is only when he has somegood action in view, and his slender funds, exhausted byhis constant charity, deny him the power of doing it himself.Every year, when the yellow fever, in stretching itsmurderous hand over New Orleans, drives the terrifiedinhabitants to the country, to seek an asylum against diseaseand death, the virtue of Father Anthony shows itselfin all its brilliancy and force. During this time of dreadand grief, how many unhappy wretches, abandoned bytheir friends or even by their relations, have owed theirrecovery and life to his exertions, his care, his piety. Ofall those he has saved, (and there are many,) there is notone who can say, “before he lavished his care on me, did100he ask of what religion I was.” Liberty and charity, suchis the moral code of Father Anthony; hence he is not infavour with the bishop. When he came to visit the general,he was dressed, according to the custom of his order,in a long brown robe, tied about his middle with a thickcord. The moment he perceived him, he threw himselfinto his arms, exclaiming, “O my son, I have found favourbefore the Lord, since he has thus permitted me to seeand hear the worthiest apostle of liberty!” He then converseda few moments with him in a tone of the mosttender affection, complimented him on the glorious andwell-merited reception he had met with from the Americans,and modestly retired into a corner of the room,apart from the crowd. I took advantage of this, toapproach and salute him. How deeply was I touched byhis conversation!—what sweetness! what modesty! andat the same time what enthusiasm! Every time that hespoke of liberty his eyes sparkled with a sacred light, andhis looks were fastened on him he termed his hero, on Lafayette.“How happy must he be,” said he, “how pureis the source of all his glory! with what transport he mustcontemplate the result of his labours and sacrifices!Twelve millions of men happy and free through him!Yes! this man is certainly beloved by God. He has doneso much good to others.” He came again to see us themorning before our departure. When the crowd hadquitted the room, and he was left alone with the general,he hastened to him, and pressing him with transport to hisbosom, “Adieu, my son,” cried he, “adieu, best belovedgeneral! Adieu! may the Lord attend you, and after thetermination of your glorious journey, conduct you to thebosom of your beloved family, to enjoy in peace the recollectionof your good actions and of the friendship of theAmerican people. O, my son, perhaps you are stillreserved for new labours! Perhaps the Lord may makeyou the instrument of freeing other nations. Then, myson, think of poor Spain! Do not abandon my dear country,my unhappy country!” The tears flowing from hiseyes, moistened his long beard, whitened by age; his voicewas interrupted by sobs; and the venerable old man, leaninghis forehead on the shoulder of Lafayette, remained in101this attitude a few moments, still murmuring, “My son,my dear son, do something for my unhappy country.” Itwas not without deep emotion that the general tore himselffrom the arms of this pious patriot, who, before heretired, also bestowed his benediction on Mr. GeorgeLafayette.

But the 15th being fixed for our departure, from thedawn of day the avenues to the general’s apartment werefilled with even a greater assemblage than that of theevening before. There were present a great number ofladies, and particularly crowds of children brought by theirparents, that they might contemplate the features of thebenefactor of the country, the friend of the great Washington.The general left the house on foot. Cries of ViveLafayette were heard on every side. In crossing theparade ground, on which were several companies of thelegion and troops of the line, lining the avenues, heexpressed his gratitude to all the officers whom he met;he again testified to Mr. Gally, the captain of artillery, howmuch he appreciated the merit of the fine corps he commanded;and, as he understood that this officer intendedgoing to France in a short time, he begged him, in the mostpressing manner, to have the goodness to carry news ofhim to his family at La Grange. He got into a carriageat the extremity of the parade ground, to proceed to theplace of embarkation, where the steam-boat that was totake him to Baton-Rouge now waited for him. The leveewas crowded by an innumerable concourse of people.The balconies, roofs of the houses, all the shipping andsteam-boats which were near this spot, were filled withspectators; and, when he went on board, he was salutedby a prolonged acclamation, but it was not repeated, andmore than ten thousand persons remained in a state ofprofound silence, until the Natchez was out of sight. Theartillery only was heard at intervals, giving a solemnityto this separation that was profound and universal.

The governor and his staff, the mayor and municipalbody, the committee of arrangement, to whom we owed somany and great obligations, embarked with us to prolongfor a few moments the pleasure of being with the general;but at two miles from the city, the most of them102were obliged to leave us. It was not without profound regretthat we separated from these worthy officers, whomwe had only known for a few days, it is true, but yet sufficientlylong to appreciate them fully.

CHAPTER VIII.

History and Constitution of Louisiana—Baton-Rouge—Natchez—Stateof Mississippi—Voyage to St. Louis—Reception of General Lafayettein that city.

For a long time after the French had founded large andprosperous establishments in Canada, they were ignorantof the existence of the Mississippi; when some of their traderslearnt from the Indians with whom they trafficked,that to the westward of their country there was a greatriver, that communicated with the Gulf of Mexico. Thiswas in the year 1660. Three years afterwards Mr. DeFrontenac, governor of Canada, wishing to verify this assertion,sent a Jesuit missionary, father Marquette, at the headof a small detachment to discover this country. The Jesuitascended Fox river to its source, from thence traversingthe Wisconsin, he descended to the mouth of theMississippi, and found that the account of the Indians wastrue.

Twenty years afterwards, Count Robert de la Salle notonly proved the existence of this river, but ascertained thatit offered an easy communication with the ocean. He descendedit from the river Illinois to the Mexican gulf, whilstfather Hennepin, a franciscan, ascended it as far as thefalls of St. Anthony, situated three hundred miles abovethat river. Count Robert took possession, in the name ofthe king of France, his master, of the whole course of theriver with the adjacent country, and erected some forts forthe protection of the settlers, which, as the soil appearedvery rich, he expected to see arrive in great numbers.Nevertheless, it was not until 1699, that the first settlementwas made at Biloxi, by a celebrated French naval officer,103Lemoine d’Iberville, who was the first to enter the Mississippifrom the sea, and ascended the river as far as Natchez,which he chose for the capital of Louisiana, calling it Rosalie,in honour of the name of Chancellor Pontchartrain’slady. To people this new capital, some young girls andwell selected soldiers were sent from France. These lastwere married to the girls and exempted from military duty.Each colonist was allowed some acres of land, a cow andcalf, co*ck and hens, a gun; half a pound of powder and twopounds of lead, with a month’s provisions, were distributedto them monthly. Next came missionaries, which, insteadof improving the land by the labour of their hands, or developingthe resources of the colonists by their wisdom andcouncils, began to preach to the neighbouring Indians, inorder to convert them to the catholic faith. The fruits ofthese labours soon began to appear; that is to say, the Indianspretended to listen to the new doctrines which werespread before them, and became hypocrites for the sake ofobtaining brandy. This liquor, which was the first rewardof their conversion, exasperated all the passions to whichthey were unfortunately predisposed; and from this timethey became the most dangerous and cruel enemies of thesettlement, instead of the useful neighbours which theywould doubtless have been, if, without interfering with themanner in which they worshipped God, their friendly allianceonly had been sought. Nevertheless, in the course ofa few years, the cordiality and gentleness of the Frenchcharacter counteracted the unhappy influence of the missionaries,and almost all the savage tribes with the exceptionof the Chickasaws, made peace with the colonists and renderedthem important services. Mr. de Bienville, the brotherof Iberville, and at that time governor of Louisiana, yieldingto his ardour for research, explored the greater part ofthe rivers tributary to the Mississippi, and laid the foundationsof some new settlements on its banks. But none ofthese succeeded. The number of colonists had considerablydiminished, when, in 1712, Antony Crozat, who by theIndian trade, had amassed a fortune of forty millions,purchased the grant to the whole of Louisiana, with theexclusive right of its trade for six years. His letters patentincluded all the rivers emptying into the Mississippi and allthe lands, coasts and islands situated upon the gulf of Mexico,104between Carolina on the east and Mexico on the west.But Crozat was not long in discovering how much the expectationshe had founded upon this country were exaggerated,and hastened to renounce his contract for thepurpose of obtaining another for the period of twenty-fiveyears, in favour of the Mississippi Commercial Company,of which the celebrated Law was the projector. But thiscompany was not more fortunate than Crozat. Instead ofenticing into the colony such settlers as would have addedto its prosperity, he received only rich and avaricious adventurers,who were attracted by the report of the minesof gold and silver, with which the country was said toabound, and, disappointed in their hopes, quickly returnedto Europe. In spite of the efforts of the government institutedby the commercial company, the proprietaries weresoon reduced to despair, and established military posts,where they defended themselves until reinforcements werereceived. The first expedition that arrived was composedof criminals and women of abandoned character, sent outby the French government. The company were justly indignantat this, and declared, that in future they would notsuffer the colony to be thus morally and physically polluted.

In 1718, New Orleans, consisting of a few cabins builtby Illinois traders, and thus named in honour of the regentDuke of Orleans, passed under the jurisdiction of the governor-general,M. de Bienville, and received a considerablenumber of new settlers. Two villages were built inits vicinity by Germans, under the command of Arensburg,a Swedish captain, who, in 1709, had fought by the sideof Charles XII. at the battle of Pultowa. The colony nowbegan really to prosper, and in 1723 swarms of capuchins,missionaries, jesuits, and pious ursulines, began to arrivefrom all directions. These last at least were good forsomething. They were entrusted with the education oforphan girls, and the superintendance of the military hospital,with a pension of fifty thousand crowns per annum.Intolerance, the inseparable accompaniment of all privileges,and especially those of religion, began to show itselfin the colony, as soon as the capuchins, jesuits, &c. madetheir appearance. In 1724, a royal edict expelled theJews, as declared enemies to the Christian name, and they105were ordered to disappear in the course of three months,under penalty of imprisonment and confiscation of property.It was thus that the throne and church watchedthen, as it did before, and has done since, to dry up themost abundant sources of public prosperity. In 1729, theintrigues of England raised the Indians against the colony,and thus gave a sad blow to its prosperity. The war thencarried on by General Perrier de Salvert, had a fortunatetermination. Meanwhile it was only through the attachmentof some Indian women to a few French officers, thatthe garrison escaped being totally massacred one night;which would have led to the entire destruction of the colony.In consequence of these late hostilities, and thebase intrigues carried on in the metropolis, the colonistslost their time together with the fruits of their labours. Thecompany, disgusted and deceived in their hopes of gain,abandoned the country, which, in 1731, returned under thedominion of the king, without being any better governed.In 1759, its financial affairs were in such disorder, that thetreasury owed more than seven millions of francs, althoughthe French government had expended for various servicesin Louisiana, nearly double the amount it had derived fromit. Louis XV., at the close of a war badly conceived, and,in 1763, as badly terminated, having lost Canada, wasupon the point of having Louisiana taken from him. Buthis ministers, assisted by Madame Pompadour, his mistress,obtained fifteen millions from the court of Madrid, andthis colony was ceded to Spain with such secrecy anddespatch, that the governor of Louisiana had not yet receivedinformation of the affair when the Spanish ships ofwar arrived at the mouth of the Mississippi, with the officersappointed to take possession of this immense territory.The governor and inhabitants of Louisiana refusedto recognise the Spanish authority, so that the commissionerswere obliged to return to Europe. Three orfour years passed in negotiating with the colonists, whopersisted in continuing under the dominion of France. Atlength, in 1769, Spain becoming provoked, sent out GeneralReilly with considerable forces. Arrived before NewOrleans, Reilly manifested the most conciliatory disposition.His proclamations only spoke of oblivion for thepast, and were completely successful. The commotions106ceased, and the Louisianians surrendered themselves. Asa sign of reconciliation, Reilly gave a grand entertainmenton board his fleet, to which he invited the chief officers ofthe colony, and principal inhabitants. These accepted theinvitation with confidence, but at the moment when theywere about to leave the table, Reilly caused them to beseized by his soldiers and shot. One of these, M. De Villeré,had his life spared, but was put on board a frigate tobe transported to the prisons of Navarre. His wife andchildren, informed of the fate that threatened him, wishedto go and petition his highness, or at least to receive hisfarewell. They were already near the frigate, from whichhe stretched out his arms to them, when the unhappy manfell within their sight, pierced by the bayonets of the villainswhom the traitor Reilly had appointed to guard him.

After this horrible execution, the Spaniards, with fourthousand troops of the line, and a considerable train ofartillery, entered New Orleans, the inhabitants of whichwere struck dumb. The English protestants, and a fewJews, who had escaped the force of the royal decree of1724, were soon banished by the new authorities. Allcommerce with the colony was prohibited except withSpain and her possessions. A court martial was established,and its iniquitous decisions struck at all the Frenchofficers who remained. Of these, five were shot, and sevenothers thrown, for ten years, into the prisons of Havana.The infamous Reilly, having for a whole year gorged himselfwith blood and plunder, at length set sail, carrying withhim the scorn and hatred of the whole population. Hissuccessors in the government had great difficulty in doingaway the effects of his crimes, and it is due them to saythat they succeeded. During thirty-three years of Spanishdominion, the colony enjoyed peace and prosperity, and tothis very day, the names of Don Unsuga, Don Martin Navarro,and Don Galvar, are remembered there with veneration.

During all the changes experienced by Louisiana, itsboundaries had never been determined with accuracy. In1795, the government of the United States made a treatywith Spain, in virtue of which the limits were traced, andthe free navigation of the Mississippi secured to the twocontracting parties. But notwithstanding this treaty the107owners of privateers, and crews of vessels of war, madespoliations upon the commerce of the United States. Freenavigation of the Mississippi, and permission of landing atNew Orleans, were refused the Americans. PresidentAdams, therefore, immediately took measures to obtain redress.Twelve regiments were raised, and an expedition fittedout upon the Ohio to descend to Louisiana. But somechanges occurring in American politics caused this projectto be abandoned for the moment. The next year, Mr. Jefferson,then president of the United States, re-demanded ofSpain the fulfilment of the treaty. This power, sensible ofits weakness, and fearing to be compelled to cede the colony,secretly sold it to the French Republic on the 21stof March, 1801. Upon hearing of this cession the Americangovernment were justly alarmed. It foresaw, that theactivity and intelligence of the French, applied to so richand productive a soil, would make them more formidablethan the Spaniards; that their new neighbours might beable to close the navigation of the Mississippi against them,and possess themselves of the commerce of the Gulf ofMexico and Antilles. It immediately formed the project offorcibly opposing the occupation of Louisiana by France,and joined England against her. But this plan was overthrownby the treaty of Amiens. At peace with England,France feared no further obstacles to her projects, and anexpedition was fitted out by her to take possession of Louisiana,and at the same time support her wavering authorityin St. Domingo. The American government immediatelyhad recourse to negotiations for the purpose of purchasingLouisiana. Affairs, at that time, changed with such rapidity,that the situation of France had again altered beforethese propositions reached her. Threatened with a newwar by England, wearied with the struggle to defend St.Domingo, loaded with a considerable debt due the UnitedStates, the first consul thought that the sale of Louisianawould prove a good operation, the opportunity of effectingwhich might relieve him from one difficulty, at least. Heaccordingly sold it. The United States agreed to pay himfifteen millions of dollars, on condition that three millionsseven hundred and fifty thousand dollars of this sum, shouldbe retained for the purpose of paying the claims held bythe American merchants against France, for the spoliations108they had suffered. This treaty, signed at Paris the 30th ofApril, 1803, by Messrs. Livingston and Monroe on the partof the United States, and Mr. Barbé Marbois for France,was ratified in the month of October, and the transfer ofthe colony to the American commissioners took place onthe 20th of December in the same year.

All the parties interested in this bargain had reason tobe satisfied with its conclusion. France, freeing herselffrom the trouble of a distant government, more burthensomethan profitable, received sixty millions of francs,which she needed to carry on the war, and, without expendinga cent, discharged a debt due the American merchantsof nearly twenty millions. The United Statesstrengthened their independence, acquired new frontiersmore secure than the old ones, established her commercialpreponderance in the Gulf of Mexico and Antilles, and, bythe free navigation of the Mississippi, increased an hundredfold the value of the products of the states west of the Allegany.In fine, Louisiana herself, by entering into thegreat federal compact, secured an honourable and independentexistence as a body politic, and soon saw her industryand prosperity freed from the cunning schemes of acapricious master.

Louisiana was immediately erected into a territorial government,by the congress of the United States, which appointedMr. Clayborne its governor. In 1811, it wasadmitted a member of the Union, and left to form its owngovernment and institutions. The representatives of thepeople, freely elected and assembled at New Orleans, framedand signed a constitution, which was laid before, andsanctioned by congress. This constitution was in conformitywith, and very similar to those of the other states, exceptthat the Louisianians believed it their duty to adopt everypossible precaution against corruption and abuse of power.Thus, for example, it was decided that every person,convicted of having given or offered presents to publicfunctionaries, should be declared incapable of serving asgovernor, senator, or representative.

If I thought it necessary to seek fresh proofs of the superiorityof an independent over a colonial government, whetherthis last proceed from a monarchy or republic, itwould suffice to point out Louisiana, at first a colony for109nearly a century, without advancing beyond the stage ofinfancy, incessantly taken and retaken, sometimes by theSpaniards, at others by the French, and always incapableof resisting either the one or the other, after an expense toits metropolis of one hundred and eighty-seven thousanddollars per annum; and, in fine, after the numerous emigrationsfrom Europe, exhibiting but a meagre populationof about forty thousand souls, spread over a vast and richterritory. I would next show this same Louisiana, aftertwenty years of independent republican government, havingmore than trebled its population, defeating under thewalls of its rich capital, an army composed of the chosentroops of England; receiving into its ports annually morethan four hundred ships to exchange its valuable productsfor those of all parts of the habitable globe; and, in itscities, offering all the resources, all the enjoyments thatcan contribute to the happiness of life, and which are ordinarilythe products of a long period of civilization.

The state of Louisiana, enclosed within its new limits,is situated between 29° and 33° n. l. and 12° and 17° oflongitude. It is bounded on the north by Arkansas territory,east by the Mississippi, south by the Mexican gulf,and west by the Mexican provinces of Texas. It containsforty-eight thousand square miles, divided into twenty-sixparishes or counties. It has a population of 153,500 souls,among which, unfortunately, nearly 70,000 slaves areenumerated. The capital of this state is New Orleans, acity admirably situated in a commercial point of view, regularlylaid out, ornamented with fine buildings, and containingtwenty-eight thousand inhabitants. The greatestinconvenience which New Orleans labours under, is itssituation upon the alluvial shores of the Mississippi, bywhose floods it is often inundated. This is perhaps theprincipal cause of the yellow fever which is experiencedthere almost every autumn. The impossibility of findinga single stone in all this alluvial ground, shows why theprincipal streets have been left unpaved, so that during therainy season it is difficult to go about on foot. The walksmade in front of the houses scarcely serve to keep footpassengers from the mud, and do not prevent the carriagesfrom sinking sometimes to their axles. The authorities,however, have at length begun to procure paving stone110from up the Mississippi, which the vessels bring as ballast.This plan, though tedious and expensive, is the only onepracticable.

The greater number of travellers who have visited NewOrleans, pretend that the manners of the city are stronglyinfluenced by the presence of the numerous emigrantsfrom St. Domingo. These have the reputation of lovingpleasure to licentiousness, and of treating their slavesbadly. The love of gambling, and the duels so often occasionedby this passion, give rise, it is said, to much disorderamong them. To confirm or disprove this opinionby my own observation, would be, in me, culpable arrogance.My too short stay in this city did not permit meto study the character of its society, and I could only bestruck with the patriotic spirit, the freedom and hospitality,displayed with enthusiasm in the presence of GeneralLafayette.[8]

Twenty-four hours after leaving New Orleans, we arrivedat Duncan’s Point, where the citizens of Baton-Rouge,a town situated eight miles above, had previouslysent a deputation to General Lafayette, to request him tostop a short time amongst them. The general acceptedthe invitation with gratitude, and two hours afterwards welanded below the amphitheatre upon which the town ofBaton-Rouge stands. The beach was crowded with citizens,at the head of whom marched the municipal authorities,and the first regiment of the Union came to form itselfin line under the same star-spangled banner, which, indefiance of the greatest dangers, had but lately been plantedupon the ruins of Spanish despotism, by the inhabitants ofthese parishes. Accompanied by the people and magistrates,the general proceeded to the room prepared for hisreception, in which he found the busts of Washington and111Jackson crowned with flowers and laurel. There he receivedthe expressions of kindness from all the citizens,with whom he went to the fort, the garrison of which receivedhim with a salute of twenty-four guns, and afterwardsdefiled before him. We then entered the main buildingto examine the interior of the barracks, but what wasour surprise, on entering into the first apartment, to find inthe place of beds, arms, and warlike equipments, a numerousassemblage of elegantly dressed and beautiful ladies,who surrounded the general and offered him refreshmentsand flowers. The general was sensibly touched by thisagreeable surprise, and passed some delightful moments inthe midst of this seducing garrison. On our return totown, we found a great number of citizens met to offer thegeneral a public dinner, among whom the frank cordialityof the American, and the amenity of the French charactersprevailed.

It was almost night when we returned on board theNatchez to continue our voyage. On leaving Baton-Rouge,we had the mortification to part again with some of thosewho had accompanied us from New Orleans, and amongothers, with Mr. Duplantier, senior, whose active and tenderfriendship, as well as that of his son, had been of greatservice to the general.

Baton-Rouge stands upon the left bank of the river, onehundred and thirty-seven miles above New Orleans. Inthis passage, the navigation of the river is very interesting.For several miles after leaving New Orleans, the eye reposesagreeably upon the shores, enriched with fine cottonand sugar plantations, and embellished with clusters oforange trees, from the midst of which rise the white andshowy dwellings of the planters. By degrees the gardensand houses become more rare; but all the way to Baton-Rougeone continues to see fine and well cultivated lands.These plantations spread along the river, sometimes extendingnearly a mile back to the thick forests, which serveas their limits. The soil is entirely formed of the fertilesediments deposited by the ancient inundations of the Mississippi,now confined to its channel by artificial banks.A special law enjoins it upon each river proprietor to keepup with care that portion of dike opposite his property, sothat one every where sees the slaves continually engaged112in driving down stakes, interlacing the branches of trees,and heaping earth here and there where there is dangerthat the river will force a passage. But notwithstandingall precautions, the water often rushes furiously overthese obstacles, and spreads devastation and death. Nota year passes without some proprietor having the misfortuneto see snatched from him in a few minutes the fruitsof long and laborious exertions. All the lands which borderthe Mississippi, from its outlet to six hundred milesabove, are subject to inundations. Nevertheless, on leavingBaton-Rouge, the left shore appears sufficiently elevatedabove the surface of the water to be free from theseaccidents.

The distance between Baton-Rouge and Natchez, is twohundred and sixty miles. This we ran in thirty-two hours,having had a pleasant passage, in the course of which wemet a great many boats of all forms and sizes, laden withall sorts of productions from the most distant points of theUnion. Those which more particularly attracted our attentionwere large and of a square form, without eithermasts, sails, or oars. They floated down the river at themercy of the current, and bore more resemblance to enormousboxes than to boats. They are called arks, and arecommonly manned by Kentuckians, who go in this way toNew Orleans, to dispose of their grain, poultry, and cattle.There, after receiving pay for their produce, they sell alsothe planks of their arks, which cannot ascend the river, andreturn to their homes on foot, across the forests of thestates of Mississippi, Alabama, and Tennessee. More thanfifteen hundred persons, it is said, travel thus, every summer,seventeen hundred miles by water, and afterwards,in returning, eleven hundred on foot.[9]

On Monday, the 18th of April, some distant dischargesof cannon, which we heard at dawn, announced our approachto a city. Some minutes afterwards, the first raysof the sun gilding the shores of the Mississippi, which, inthis place, rose a hundred and fifty feet above the surface113of the water, showed us the tops of the houses in Natchez.Our steam-boat stopped a little while previous to arrivingopposite the town, and we went on shore at Bacon’s landing,where the citizens, with a calash and four horses, andan escort of cavalry and volunteer infantry, were waitingfor the general. We might have landed a little higher upand entered the city by a more direct road, but the membersof the committee of arrangement had the address toconduct us by a devious road, along which our eyes werepresented with all the beauties of the country. In proportionas we advanced, the escort increased. It consistedof citizens on horseback, militia on foot, ladies in carriages,and nearly the whole population, who came in a crowd tosee their beloved and long expected guest. Two addresseswere made to the general; one by the presidentof the committee of arrangement, on entering the city; theother by the mayor, on one of the most elevated spots onthe banks of the Mississippi, within view of the town andthe river, its source of prosperity. At the moment thegeneral finished his reply, a man suddenly emerged fromthe crowd, approached the calash, waving his hat in theair, and cried out, “Honour to the commander of the Parisiannational guard! I was under your orders in ’91, mygeneral, in one of the battalions of the Filles-Saint-Thomas.I still love liberty as I loved it then: Live, Lafayette!”The general was agreeably surprised to meet, on theshores of a distant country, one of his old citizen soldiers,who recalled to him in so touching a manner the happytimes when he could rationally think of the happiness andliberty of his country. He affectionately offered him hishand, and expressed to him the pleasure he felt in thusmeeting him in a land of liberty and hospitality.

At the moment we were preparing to enter our hotel,we observed a long procession of children of both sexesapproaching us. They were led by Colonel Marshall, whor*quested of the general for them, and in their name, permissionto shake hands with him. The general willinglycomplied with this wish of the children of Natchez, whomarched in order before him, placing successively one oftheir little hands in that which had fought for the libertyof their fathers. The parents, spectators of this scene, contemplatedit with silence and emotion. On its termination,114I heard them congratulate each other on the happy influencewhich this day would have upon the future charactersof their children. “When they have grown up,” saidthey, “and come to read their country’s history, they willfind the name of Lafayette intimately connected with allthe events which led to the freedom of their fathers, theywill recall the gentleness of his manners, the mildness ofhis voice, when he received them in their infancy, and willfeel an increased love for a liberty won by such a man.”

The inhabitants of Natchez neglected nothing whichcould contribute to the pleasure of their guest during thetwenty-four hours he remained with them. The publicdinner concluded with toasts, To the Nation’s Guest—Thetriumph of Yorktown—France fighting for the liberty of theworld—The victory of New Orleans—in fact to all gloriousand patriotic American recollections. It was not untilafter the ball which closed about daybreak, that the generalcould think of embarking. The ladies employed allthe charms of mind and person to retain him as long aspossible, but our minutes were counted; and six o’clockin the morning found us again on board our vessel.

At the moment when the general was about to leave theshore, an old revolutionary soldier presented himself, anduncovering his breast marked with scars, “these wounds,”said he, “are my pride. I received them fighting by yourside for the independence of my country. Your blood,my general, flowed the same day at the battle of Brandywine,where we were so unfortunate.” “It was indeeda rough day,” said the general to him, “but have we notsince been amply indemnified?”—“Oh! that is very true,”replied the veteran, “at present we are happy beyond ourfurthest wishes. You receive the blessings of ten millionsof freemen, and I press the hand of my brave general! virtuealways has its reward!” Every one applauded theenthusiasm and frankness of the old soldier, whom thegeneral cordially greeted.

On leaving Natchez, we parted from the worthy Mr.Johnson, governor of Louisiana, who would not consent toleave the general whilst within his own state. He nowplaced us under the care of the state of Mississippi, andleft with us, for the purpose of doing the honours of Louisianaas far as St. Louis, Messrs. Prieur, recorder of the115councils of New Orleans, Caire, his private secretary, andMorse and Ducros, his aides-de-camp. In taking leave ofthe governor, General Lafayette evinced the most sincereaffection, and desired him to express in his name all thegratitude with which he was penetrated by his cordial receptionin Louisiana.

Natchez was formerly the capital of the state of Mississippi,but has ceased to be so in consequence of not beingin a central situation. Its population is nearly three thousand,and its port is the place of rest and provisioning forvessels passing between New Orleans and the westernstates, which gives it a great deal of activity. This citywas founded in 1717, by some French soldiers and workmenwho had been in the garrison of Fort Rosalie, andwho, finding the situation good, established themselvesupon it after obtaining their discharge. The most of thembought their lands from the Indians, who lived at somedistance from the river, where they had five villages situatedvery near each other. That which they called the GreatVillage, where the principal chief of the nation resided,stood on a small stream called White River. It was tothe west of this village that the Frenchmen, led by Hubertand Lepage, had erected Fort Rosalie.

When one has viewed the environs of Natchez, it iseasy to conceive how readily the first settlers renouncedtheir own country to fix themselves in these then savagewilds. It is difficult to find a more fertile soil, a morevigorous vegetation, or more agreeable and varied situations.The valleys afford fertile pastures, the hills arecrowned with sassafras, catalpas, tulip-trees, and thesuperb magnolia grandiflora, the tops of which rise morethan one hundred feet high, while their large white flowersdeliciously perfume the air. Nevertheless, one cannotexclude the thought, that these verdant meadows, coolgroves, and cheerful and vigorous nature, are sometimesvisited and rendered melancholy by the yellow fever.

Natchez is the only town in Mississippi which we visited,so that I have little to say relative to this state. I shallonly mention, that for a long time, with Alexandria, itformed a part of the state of Georgia, from which it wasseparated in 1800; that in 1817 it took its place in theUnion as an independent body politic, and framed for116itself a constitution. The fertility of its soil, and facilitiesof sending its productions to market, have contributed, ina singular degree, to the increase of its population. In1800, it had only six thousand eight hundred and fifty inhabitants,while it now contains seventy-six thousand. Ifin this number, about thirty-thousand slaves are included,its prosperity must still be regarded as very great. Manylarge fortunes are found in this state, where it is not uncommonto meet with planters having incomes of sevenor eight thousand dollars. The staple products are cottonand Indian corn.

The state of Mississippi is situated between the 30thand 35th degrees of north latitude, and the 11th and 14thdegrees of west longitude from Washington. Its surfacecontains forty-five thousand three hundred and fifty squaremiles. It is bounded on the north by the state of Tennessee,east by Alabama, south by Louisiana and the Gulf ofMexico, and west by Louisiana and Arkansas. Althoughthe population is very much scattered, the land bears aconsiderable price, being on the banks of the river fromfifty to sixty dollars per acre. The price lessens in proportionto the distance which the products have to betransported.

In leaving Natchez, we parted as it were from thecivilized world. From this town to St. Louis, we did notmeet with a single assemblage of houses that deserved thename of town or even village. The banks of the Mississippiagain became flat, and presented nothing but groundsoverflown and covered with thick forests, impenetrable tothe rays of the sun. The swarms of musquitoes whichrose out of it and settled in thick clouds upon travellers,rendered the voyage almost insupportable, especiallyduring the night, if we had not taken the precaution toprovide musquito curtains. The only habitations we metwith were large cabins, situated upon places a littleelevated above the level of the river. These were inhabitedtemporarily by hardy speculators from the north,who, always abandoning the good in hopes of findingbetter, retreat incessantly before the advance of civilization,and seek their fortunes in the wilderness. The dangersof the navigation increase with the monotony of the shores.Every moment presents some evidence of recent disaster.117Here, one beholds the ravages of a hurricane which hascrossed the river, and, in its devastation, has on bothshores uprooted and carried off, as if they had been weakreeds, thousands of trees, which by their prodigious sizewere the pride of the forest. There, our captain showedus a snag or sawyer, the inclined point of which hadpierced the bottom of a boat, immediately afterwardsswallowed up by the flood. Further on, the wood-choppers,in giving us the necessary supplies of wood, told usof the explosion of a boiler which occasioned the death ofnear forty passengers; and it was not long before we ourselvessaw the bank covered with travellers, who wereimpatiently waiting until their boat which had been piercedby a snag, should be repaired so as to be in a conditionagain to brave the danger from which they had so narrowlyescaped.

These snags and sawyers, so formidable to the navigator,are very numerous all along the river. Snags arethrown into the stream by high floods, and, having floatedsome time, become fixed to the bottom of the river, withtheir tops either above or below the surface accordingto their length, but always inclining in the direction ofthe current. The sawyers differ from snags only in beingfirmly stuck in the bed of the river, and in this situationthe current keeps them in constant vibration, alternatelyraising and depressing their summits. As their positionoften changes, it is difficult to avoid them; and, if vesselsin ascending the river are so unfortunate as to strikeagainst them, their destruction is almost inevitable, forthey are pierced in such a manner, that the water poursthrough the opening, and sinks them, sometimes in a fewminutes.

But persons are little disposed to be uneasy on accountof these dangers, when, as in our case, they are on board avessel skilfully managed, with all the delicacies of life, andinexhaustible resources afforded by the society of good andagreeable travelling companions. The committee of NewOrleans were joined by two gentlemen from Natchez, asrepresentatives of the state of Mississippi, near the personof General Lafayette. To the attentions and gaiety of themembers of both these deputations, we were indebted fornot having known a moment of tediousness or inquietude,118during our long voyage. After having sailed for five days,with the states of Louisiana, Arkansas, and Missouri, onour left, and the states of Mississippi, Tennessee, and Kentucky,on our right, we arrived at the mouth of Ohio, withoutany delays but those necessary to take in wood. Thisfuel was sometimes supplied us by the woodmen on theborders of the river, who live by the unlimited forestswhich surround them. When we could find no woodmenwe often supplied ourselves. In this case, our captain,after having made his men take in the necessary quantity,left in exchange a note nailed to a tree, upon which wasinscribed the number of cords he had taken, the name ofhis boat, his place of residence, date of his passage, andsignature. This kind of commerce with the Mississippiwoodmen is very common, and I have heard it said thatthere never has been known an example of bad faith onthe part of the purchasers, who always show themselvesmost scrupulous in paying their accounts, which areoften presented months afterwards at Natchez and NewOrleans.

When arrived at the mouth of the Ohio, we had comefrom the city of Natchez four hundred and fifty miles. Ourpilot assured us then, that the upper part of the Mississippiwas too little known to him, to permit him to conduct usthrough the midst of dangers which were met with atevery moment. In consequence of this declaration, ourgood Captain Davis made us enter the Ohio for the purposeof obtaining a new pilot, at the distance of four milesfrom its mouth, whom we were so happy as to procure immediately.On going thither, we met a steam-boat, whosenarrowness and unsteady motion induced us to think, that,destined for the navigation of small streams, it only appearedupon the agitated waters of a large one upon extraordinaryoccasions. This steam-boat was the Artizan, bearingthe Tennessee deputation, sent to desire the general to ascendthe Cumberland river to Nashville, where he had beena long time expected, and where his intention of visitingSt. Louis was not then known. After a short conferencewith the deputies of the state of Tennessee, who insistedstrongly that the general should proceed immediately totheir shores, it was determined that we should continue ourvoyage in the Natchez to St. Louis; that a part of the Tennessee119deputation should come with us, and the rest remainon board the Artizan at the mouth of the Ohio until ourreturn. These arrangements, concluded to the satisfactionof every one, we left the beautiful, to enter again the greatriver. We remarked, with surprise, that at the confluenceof these two bodies of water, the current appeared suspendedfor several miles, which seems to indicate the equalityin volume and force of the two rivers at this place.

After leaving the mouth of the Ohio, the appearance ofthe shores of the Mississippi changes entirely. The lands,more elevated, present a greater number of houses. Fromplace to place traces of the old French establishments arevisible, and beautiful islands like gardens, often presentthemselves to the eye of the navigator, interrupting the monotonyof the river. At first he sees the isle of Birds,charming for its freshness; next those called the Two Sistersand the Dog’s Tooth; and then English Island, whichrecalls the first settlement made by the English in the midstof these wilds in the year 1765. This was soon destroyedby the savages, who saw with pain their old French friendsdispossessed by traders whom they had never before seen.At about forty miles from the confluence, and almost oppositeeach other, rise capes Girardeau and Lacroix, both thusnamed by Mr. De Frontenac, governor of Canada, sent toascertain the truth of the assertion made by the Indians, thatfrom the north there came a great river which ran neither inthe direction whence the Great Spirit rose, nor towards thatin which he set. There is at present at Cape Girardeau asmall village, recently founded, which begins to prosper.A little above, on the eastern side, are seen the ruins of ancientfortifications exhibiting a scene altogether picturesque.These are the remains of fort Chartres, constructed at greatexpense by the French, in 1753, for the defence of UpperMississippi, now deserted by the Americans as altogetheruseless.

Some hours after having passed fort Chartres, whilst wewalked the deck, our captain pointed out in the river a flockof young Louisiana geese, led by the two old ones. Theelegant shape, and beautiful plumage of these fowls, mademe anxious to get possession of the whole family. I immediatelylaunched into the river a skiff manned with two sailors,and, going in the direction of the old goose, endeavoured120to get the boat between her and shore. The old geese,taking fright, made their escape with loud cries, but theyoung ones, unable yet to fly, or escape by climbing the steepbanks, soon fell into our hands. We carried off five, whichour captain had the goodness to take charge of, promisingto raise them with care, and forward them to New Orleans,whence Mr. Caire engaged to send them to La Grange, forthe benefit of the general’s farm.[10] As I was returning fromthis little expedition, I perceived, in the middle of the river,another very tempting game. This was a superb deer,which swam with as much calmness and ease as though itwere in its native element. When it heard our cries, mingledwith the noise of our steam-boat, it threw its longbranching antlers upon its shoulders, and sunk in the waterto escape our notice, swimming rapidly for the swiftestpart of the current. As soon as it thought itself free fromthe danger of pursuit, it re-appeared above water, shookits antlers proudly, and tranquilly resumed its course. Itis by no means rare, as we were informed, to see many ofthese animals thus passing from one shore of the river to theother, and visiting the fertile islands which adorn its course.

At the distance of one hundred miles from the Ohio, theshores of the Mississippi suddenly assume a more imposingappearance, rising steeply eighty or a hundred feet abovethe level of the water. They are composed of very hardgranite. In their whole height they are impressed withdeep horizontal furrows, which appear to have been causedby the friction of the water, whilst the river was at thedifferent levels which they indicate. Some of these furrowsare nearly a foot deep. They occur at unequal intervals,and mark the successive decrease of the water. Atthe actual level of the river the furrow is scarcely perceptible.What a length of time has, therefore, been occupiedin the formation of each furrow by the sole action of thewater upon a rock of such hardness? The solution of thissingle question would, perhaps, throw a good deal of difficulty121into the calculations of the system-makers, who pretendto fix the epoch of the creation of our globe.

Some distance above, these steep rocks leave betweenthem and the river a considerable space, in which is situatedHerculaneum. The site of this village is altogether romantic,the towers, formed upon the rock, which crowns itirregularly, impart a fantastic character, and attract thecuriosity of travellers. From the height of these towers,which spring from the steep rock, they throw down meltedlead, which cools by rolling in the air, becomes round, andfalls in the form of small shot into large receivers of water,placed beneath. The large or small size of the holesin the iron sieve, through which it is thrown while boilinghot, give the various sizes wanted for hunting. The leadmines found in abundance upon the shores of the Merrimacriver, which empties into the Mississippi ten miles from thisplace, have given origin to these establishments, the prosperityof which increases every day.

On the evening of the 28th, we arrived at a poor littlevillage which the French formerly founded under the sadname of Empty Pocket, better known at the present day bythe name of Carondelet. Although we were not above sixor seven miles from St. Louis, as we could not get thereby day light, the members of the different committees inattendance upon the general, resolved to pass the night atanchor in the river, and wait till next morning to enter thetown. No sooner were the inhabitants of Carondelet informedof the presence of General Lafayette in theirvicinity, than they came in crowds on board the boat tosee him. They were nearly all Frenchmen. For a longtime, their settlement has consisted of only about sixtyhouses, and does not promise to increase. Unsuited tocommerce, it was only occupied with agriculture, whichis still its chief means of obtaining the necessaries oflife. The most of them came from Canada, andfixed themselves upon a portion of land along the Mississippiwithout inquiring who owned it. They laboured,some for ten, others for twenty years; and none of themthought of securing the titles to the little farms producedby the sweat of their brows. At present, whilst the governmentof the United States are selling much of the land itpossesses in these regions, these unfortunate people run a122constant risk of seeing themselves dispossessed by purchaserswho come to claim their property. They mentionedtheir inquietudes to the general, who promised torepresent their situation to the federal government, and interesthimself in their behalf. These good people, in thesimplicity of their gratitude, offered him whom they alreadyregarded as their protector, every thing which they thoughtwould be agreeable; one of them brought him tame Mississippigeese; another, a young fawn which he had raised; athird, petrifactions and shells which he looked upon asprecious. The general saw that if he refused these presentstheir feelings would be wounded; and therefore hastenedto accept them and return his acknowledgements.

On the morning of the 29th of April, Governor Clark,of Missouri, Governor Coles of Illinois, and Colonel Benton,came on board; who all three came to accompany thegeneral to St. Louis. Some minutes after, the steam-boatPlough Boy, having on board a great number of citizens,ranged along side the Natchez, and the nation’s guestwas saluted by three cheers, which made the forests ofthe Missouri resound with Welcome, Lafayette. We thenweighed anchor, and at nine o’clock saw a large numberof buildings whose architecture was very fantastical, risingfrom the midst of beautiful green shrubbery and smilinggardens, commanding distant views of the river. This wasthe city of St. Louis. Its name, and the language of agreat portion of its inhabitants, soon informed us of its origin.But if we were struck with the diversity of languagesin which General Lafayette was saluted, we were not lessso by the unity of sentiment which they manifested. Theshore was covered by the whole population, who mingledtheir cries of joy with the roar of the cannon of our twovessels. The moment the general stepped on shore, themayor, Dr. Lane, presented himself at the head of the municipalauthorities, and greeted him with an address.

As the general concluded his reply to the mayor, an elegantcalash drawn by four horses approached the shore, toconduct him to the city, through all the streets of whichhe was drawn in the midst of the acclamations of the people.He was attended by Mr. Augustus Choteau, a venerableold gentleman by whom St. Louis was founded, Mr.Hempstead, an old soldier of the revolution, and the mayor.These gentlemen conducted him to the house of the son of123Mr. Choteau, prepared for his reception, which was thrownopen to all citizens without distinction, who desired tovisit the national guest. Among the visiters, the generalmet with pleasure Mr. Hamilton, son of General AlexanderHamilton, the former aide-de-camp to Washington, whomhe so much loved, and an old French sergeant of Rochambeau’sarmy named Bellissime. This last could notrestrain the joy he felt on seeing a countryman thus honouredby the American nation.

The inhabitants of St. Louis knew that General Lafayettecould only remain a few hours with them, and they tookadvantage of the short time he had to dispose of to show himevery thing which their city and its environs containedworthy of notice. While dinner was preparing at Mr.Peter Choteau’s, we rode out in a carriage to visit on thebanks of the river those remains of ancient Indian monumentswhich some travellers call tombs, whilst others regardthem as fortifications or places for the performance ofreligious ceremonies. All these opinions are unfortunatelyequally susceptible of discussion, for these monumentshave not preserved any sufficiently well marked charactersto afford foundation for satisfactory deductions. Thosenear St. Louis are nothing but mounds covered with greenturf, the ordinary shape of which is an oblong square.Their common height is little more than eight feet, butmust have been much greater before the earth they arebuilt of was thrown down during the lapse of ages. Theirsides are inclined, and the mean length of their base is fromeighty to a hundred feet, their width varying from thirty tosixty feet. What leads me to believe that these fabrics ofearth have never been used as strong holds in war, is, thatnot one of them is surrounded by ditches, and they areplaced too near together. These mounds are not only metwith in the environs of St. Louis, but all over the states ofMissouri, Indiana, and upon the borders of Ohio, where, weare informed, they meet with much more interesting tracesof the greatest antiquity, indicating that this world whichwe call new, was the seat of civilization, perhaps longanterior to the continent of Europe.[11]

124From the mounds of Saint Louis to the junction of Mississippiand Missouri, we should only have had two or threehours ride, but the time of the general was so calculatedthat we were obliged to forego the pleasure we should havederived from visiting the union of these two rivers, whichhave their sources in countries where nature yet reignsundisturbed. Returned to town, we went to see the collectionof Indian curiosities made by Governor Clark, which isthe most complete that is to be found. We visited it withthe greater pleasure from its being shown us by Mr. Clark,who had himself collected all the objects which composeit, while exploring the distant western regions with CaptainLewis. Specimens of all the clothing, arms, andutensils for fishing, hunting, and war, in use among the varioustribes living on the sources of the Missouri and Mississippi,are here to be found. Among the articles commonlyworn by the Indian hunters, collars made of clawsof prodigious size, particularly struck our attention. Theseclaws, Gen. Clark informed us, are from that most terribleof all the animals of the American continent, the GrizzlyBear, of the Missouri, the ferocious instinct of which addsstill more to the terror inspired by its enormous size andstrength. The bears of this species meet together to thenumber of ten or twelve, and some times more, to chaseand make a common division of their prey. Man is theirfavourite prey, and when they fall upon his track, they125chase him with outcries like those made by our hounds incoursing a hare, and it is difficult to escape the steadinessof their pursuit.[12] This animal is altogether unknown inEurope, even in the largest menageries. The LondonCabinet of Natural History possesses only a single claw,which is regarded as a great rarity.[13] Gen. Clark hasvisited, near the sources of the Missouri and Mississippi,Indian tribes which, previous to his visit, had never seen awhite man; but among whom he nevertheless discoveredtraces of an ancient people more civilized than themselves.Thus, for example, he brought away with him a whipwhich the riders of these tribes do not understand themode of using on their horses at the present time. Theknots of this are very complex, and actually arranged likethe knout of the Cossacks. He presented General Lafayettewith a garment bearing a striking resemblance to aRussian riding coat. It is made of buffaloe skin, preparedso as to retain all its pliancy, as if dressed by the mostskilful tanner. From these and some other facts, Mr.Clark, and Captain Lewis, his companion, concluded thatthere formerly existed, near the pole, a communication betweenAsia and America. These two intrepid travellerspublished in 1814, an interesting account of the journeysmade by them in 1804, 5, and 6, by order of the Americangovernment, the object being to explore the sources of the126Missouri, and the course of the Columbia river, till itreaches the Pacific ocean.

We could have remained a considerable longer time inGovernor Clark’s museum, listening to the interesting accountswhich he was pleased to give us relative to hisgreat journeys, but were informed that the hour for dinnerhad arrived, and we went to the house of Mr. Peter Choteau.On our way we visited a portion of the town whichwe had not before seen, and were surprised at the whimsicalmanner in which some of the houses, apparently themost ancient, were constructed. They generally consistedof a single story, surrounded by a gallery covered with awide projecting roof. Some one pointed out to us, thatformerly the basem*nt was not inhabited, and that thestair-way leading to the upper story was moveable at pleasure.This precaution was used by the first inhabitants ofSt. Louis for the purpose of guarding against the insidiousnocturnal attacks of the Indians, who saw with jealousythe whites making permanent settlements among them.When St. Louis, then a feeble village, passed under theSpanish authority, the neighbouring Indians were still sonumerous and enterprising, that the inhabitants couldscarcely resist them, or even venture abroad. It is related,that, in 1794, an Indian chief entered St. Louis, with aportion of his tribe, and having demanded an interview,spoke as follows: “We come to offer you peace. We havemade war against you for a great many moons, and whathas been the result? Nothing. Our warriors have usedevery means to fight with yours, but you will not, and darenot meet us! You are a pack of old women! What canbe done with such people, since they will not fight, butmake peace? I come therefore to you to bury the hatchet,brighten the chain, and open a new communication withyou.”

Since that time the tribes have greatly diminished, andmost of them departed. Those still remaining in the vicinityshow the most peaceable disposition towards thewhite inhabitants, with whom they carry on a considerabletrade in furs. The inhabitants of St. Louis are, besides,sufficiently numerous no longer to fear such neighbours. Thepopulation amounts to nearly six thousand souls, which127number will probably be doubled in a few years, for thiscity has the prospect of a brilliant destiny in these vastregions, in the midst of which civilization, under the guidanceof American liberty and industry, must run a giant’scourse. St. Louis is already the grand store-house of allthe commerce of the countries west of the Mississippi. Itssituation near the junction of four or five great rivers,all of whose branches, which spread to the most distant extremitiesof the Union, furnish an easy and rapid communicationwith all those places which can contribute to thewants or luxuries of its happy inhabitants. Into whatastonishment is the mind thrown on reflecting that such aheight of prosperity is the result of but a few years, andthat the founder of so flourishing a city still lives, and, fora long time, has been in the enjoyment of the results whichhe neither could have hoped for, nor anticipated, had itbeen predicted to his young and ardent imagination on firstapproaching the solitary shores of the Mississippi. Thisenterprising man, who, with his axe, felled the first tree ofthe ancient forest on the place where the city of St. Louisstands, who raised the first house, about which, in so shorta time, were grouped the edifices of a rich city; who, byhis courage and conciliating spirit, at first repressed therage of the Indians, and afterwards secured their friendship;this happy man is Mr. Augustus Choteau. I havealready named him among those appointed by the inhabitantsof St. Louis to do the honours of their city to theguest of the American nation. It was at the house of hisson, Mr. Peter Choteau, that we partook of the feast ofrepublican gratitude. It was highly interesting to beholdseated at the table the founder of a great city, one ofthe principal defenders of the independence of a greatnation, and the representatives of four young republics,already rich from their industry, powerful from theirliberty, and happy from the wisdom of their institutions.As might be readily supposed, the conversationwas highly interesting. Mr. Augustus Choteauwas asked a great many questions respecting his youthfuladventures and enterprises. The companion in arms ofWashington was requested to relate some details of thedecisive and glorious campaign of Virginia, and the membersof the different deputations of Louisiana, Mississippi,128Tennessee, and Missouri, drew a pleasing picture of theprosperous advancement of their respective states. Inthis company, that which touched General Lafayette mostwas the prevailing unanimity among the guests, who,though they did not all speak one language, agreed perfectlyin respect to the excellence of those republican institutionsunder which it was their happiness to live.Before leaving the banquet in order to attend the ballwhich the ladies were so kind as to prepare for us, sometoasts were exchanged, all of which bore the impression ofthe harmony existing between the old French and the newAmerican population. Mr. Delassus, formerly lieutenant-governorof Louisiana, drank, “The United States andFrance! May these two countries produce anotherWashington and another Lafayette, to emancipate therest of the world!” Governor Coles drank, “France!dear to our hearts from so many recollections, and aboveall for having given birth to our Lafayette.” GeneralLafayette finished by drinking the health of the venerablepatriarch, who, in 1763, founded the town of St. Louis,and immediately afterwards we left the table for the ball,where we found the most numerous and brilliant companyassembled, as we were informed, that had ever been seenupon the western shore of the Mississippi. The splendiddecorations of the room, and the beauty of the ladies whograced it, made us completely forget that we were on theconfines of a wilderness which the savages themselves consideras insufficient for the supply of their simple wants,since they only frequent it occasionally. We partook ofthe pleasures of the evening until near midnight, the hourat which we were to return on board the Natchez, for thepurpose of taking some rest before daylight, when we wereto depart. At the moment we were about to embark,many citizens of St. Louis had the goodness to offer usseveral objects of curiosity, such as bows, arrows, calumets,and dresses of the Missouri Indians. We acceptedwith gratitude these testimonies of benevolence, which wehave preserved as agreeable remembrancers of happyoccurrences so far from our country.

Changes produced in the navigation of the Mississippi since the introductionof Steam—Arrival at Kaskaskia—The Canadians andIndians—Singular meeting with a young Indian educated among theWhites, and returned to savage life—Indian Ballad—State of Illinois—Departurefrom Kaskaskia—Separation of General Lafayette andthe Louisiana deputation.

Governor Coles, who had embarked with us, requestedof General Lafayette and obtained his consent, that hewould not leave the river Mississippi without visiting thestate of Illinois, along which we were to pass in descendingthe river. It was decided that we should stop at Kaskaskia,a large village of that state, and, although nearlyeighty miles distant, we arrived there a little while beforenoon, so fortunate and rapid was our navigation. Sincethe application of steam to navigation, the changes producedin the relations of the towns on the Mississippi isprodigious. Formerly the voyage from New Orleans toSt. Louis required three or four months of the most painfultoil that can be imagined; the action of the oar wasnot always sufficient to overcome the resistance of thecurrent. They were often obliged to warp the boat byhand, advancing from time to time with a small boat to tiea rope to a tree or stone on the shore.[14] This slow andpainful operation, the consequent privations and bad diet,caused diseases among the boatmen, which ordinarilydestroyed one third of the crew. At present the samepassage which is nearly fifteen hundred miles, is made inten days, without fatigue, without privations, between agood bed and a good table, and often in very good company;the return is commonly made in five days; so that130New Orleans and St. Louis, separated by so great a distance,are now considered as neighbouring cities, whoseinhabitants are better acquainted and visit each otheroftener than those of Paris and Bordeaux can do.

General Lafayette was not expected at Kaskaskia, andnothing had been prepared for this unforeseen visit. Whilewe were landing some one ran to the village, which standsa quarter of a mile from the shore, and quickly returnedwith a carriage for the general, who, an instant after, wassurrounded by many citizens, who ran before to receivehim. In the escort which formed itself to accompanyhim, we saw neither military apparel nor the splendidtriumphs we had perceived in the rich cities; but theaccents of joy and republican gratitude which broke uponhis ear, was grateful to his heart, since it proved to himthat wherever American liberty had penetrated, there alsothe love and veneration of the people for its founders wereperpetuated.

We followed the general on foot, and arrived almost atthe same time at the house of General Edgar, a venerablesoldier of the revolution, who received him with affectionatewarmth, and ordered all the doors to be kept open, thathis fellow citizens might enjoy, as well as himself, thepleasure of shaking hands with the adopted son of America.After a few minutes had been accorded to the rathertumultuous expression of the sentiments which the presenceof the general inspired, Governor Coles requestedsilence, which was accorded with a readiness and deferencethat proved to me that his authority rested not onlyon the law, but still more on popular affection. Headvanced towards Lafayette, about whom the crowd hadincreased, and addressed him with emotion in a discoursein which he depicted the transports his presence excitedin the population of the state of Illinois, and the happy influencewhich the remembrance of his visit would producehereafter on the youthful witnesses of the enthusiasm oftheir fathers, for one of the most valiant founders of theirliberty.

During an instant of profound silence, I cast a glance atthe assembly, in the midst of which I found myself, andwas struck with astonishment in remarking their variety andfantastic appearance. Beside men whose dignity of countenance,131the patriotic exaltation of expression, readilyindicated them to be Americans, were others whose coarsedresses, vivacity, petulance of movement, and the expansivejoy of their visages, strongly recalled to me thepeasantry of my own country; behind these, near to thedoor, and on the piazza which surrounded the house,stood some immovable, impassable, large, red, half nakedfigures, leaning on a bow or a long rifle: these were theIndians of the neighbourhood.

After a pause of some seconds, the governor resumedhis address, which he concluded by presenting, with greateloquence, a faithful picture of the benefits which Americahad derived from its liberty, and the happy influence whichrepublican institutions would one day exercise on the restof the world. When the orator had finished, a slightmurmur of approbation passed through the assembly, andwas prolonged until it was perceived that General Lafayettewas about to reply, when an attentive silence wasrestored.

After these reciprocal felicitations, another scene not lessinteresting commenced. Some old revolutionary soldiersadvanced from the crowd, and came to shake hands withtheir old general; while he conversed with them, and heardthem, with softened feelings, cite the names of those of theirancient companions in arms, who also fought at Brandywineand Yorktown, but for whom it was not ordained toenjoy the fruits of their toils, nor to unite their voices withthat of their grateful country. The persons whom I had remarkedas having some likeness in dress and manners to ourFrench peasants, went and came with vivacity in all partsof the hall, or sometimes formed little groups, from themidst of which could be heard, in the French language,the most open and animated expressions of joy. Havingbeen introduced to one of these groups by a memberof the committee of Kaskaskia, I was received at firstwith great kindness, and was quickly overwhelmed witha volley of questions, as soon as they found I was aFrenchman, and accompanied general Lafayette. “What!are you also come from France? Give us then some newsfrom that fine, that dear country. Are people happy there?Are they free as they are here? Ah! what pleasure to seeour good Frenchmen from grand France!” and the questions132followed with such rapidity, that I knew not which tounderstand. I was not long in perceiving that these goodmen were as ignorant of the things which concerned theirmother country, as they were enthusiastic. They are acquaintedwith France only by tradition from the reign ofLouis XIV. and they have no idea of the convulsions which,during the last forty years, have torn the country of theirfathers. “Have you not had,” said one of them to me,who had just asked me many questions about General Lafayette,which would not have been asked by an Americanchild ten years of age, “have you not had another famousgeneral, called Napoleon, who has made many gloriouswars?” I think if Napoleon had heard such a questionasked, his vanity would have been somewhat shocked byit. He, who believed he filled the universe with his name,because he had overturned some old thrones of Europe,and destroyed the liberty of France, was yet hardly knownon the banks of the Mississippi; not more than two thousandleagues from the theatre of his glory, his name is pronouncedwith an expression of doubt! Indeed, there is inthis something to damp the most ardent passion for celebrity:I did my best to reply to the question of my Canadian,to make him comprehend, as well as those who surroundedhim, who was this famous General Napoleon. At the recitalof his exploits, they at first clapped their hands, andassumed an air of superiority, in saying, “These are ourbrave Frenchmen. It is only among them that men likethese are to be found!” But when I came to tell them howthis famous general caused himself to be made consul; howhe made himself emperor; how he had successively destroyedour liberty, and paralyzed the exercise of our rights;how, finally, he had himself fallen, leaving us, after twentyyears of war, nearly at the same point whence we hadstarted at the commencement of our revolution, they allbecame sad as if about to weep, and exclaimed: “And youhave suffered all that! How, in beautiful France, andgrand France, are they not free as in the state of Illinois?Good heavens! is it possible? What, can you not writewhatever you please? Cannot you go every where withoutpassports? Is it not you who nominate the mayors of yourtowns and villages? Is it not you who choose your governors,or your prefects of departments or provinces? Have133you not the right to elect your representatives to the nationalassembly? Are none of you called to the election ofthe chief of the government, although you pay the whole ofsuch heavy taxes? Alas! our good Frenchmen of grandFrance are then more to be pitied than the negro slaves ofLouisiana, who are, indeed, miserable enough! for if theseexercise none of the rights which we all exercise here, theyat least pay no money, and have masters that support them.”During these exclamations, I did not know what to say.The colour mounted to my cheeks, and I confess that mynational vanity suffered singularly to hear ignorant Canadiansexpress sentiments of pity for my countrymen, anddraw a parallel to their disadvantage between them andmiserable slaves; but these sentiments were too well foundedto admit of my complaining, and I was silent. I onlymade a promise to myself to be more discreet for the future,and not to speak with so much freedom of the politicalsituation of my country before freemen.

While I was occupied with the Canadians, the crowd,influenced by a feeling of delicacy and kind attention, insensiblywithdrew, to leave General Lafayette time to takea few moments’ repose while waiting for the banquet whichthe citizens had hastily prepared. Wishing to profit bythe short time we had to remain at Kaskaskia, Mr. GeorgeLafayette and myself went out to view the environs of thevillage, in company with some of the inhabitants, and leftthe general with our other travelling companions and someold revolutionary soldiers, at Colonel Edgar’s. At thepublic square we found nearly all the citizens walkingabout, and joyously conversing upon the event of the day.We found in their groups the same variety of physiognomythat had struck me in the hall. While Mr. George gatheredfrom an American, the details of the origin and presentsituation of Kaskaskia, I approached a small circle ofIndians, in the centre of which was a man of high statureand singular aspect. His face, without being coppery likethat of the Indians, was still very swarthy. His shortdress, his long belt, to which hung a powder-horn, his longleather leggings, extending above his knees, and all hisequipage, announced a hunter of the forest. He was leaningon a long rifle, and appeared to inspire by his discoursea lively interest in his hearers. When he observed me, he134came to me without forwardness, but with marked kindness.He extended his hand, and I gave him mine, whichhe shook cordially. I had a moment’s hesitation in addressinghim, not knowing whether he understood English orFrench; but he spoke to me first in French, and I soonfound myself quite at ease with him. He informed me thathe was of mixed blood, that his mother was of the Kickapoostribe, and that his father was a Canadian. He livesamong the Indians of the neighbourhood, who have a greatfriendship and respect for him, because, notwithstandingfifty years and fatigue have begun to whiten his head, heyet equals them in hunting and all the exercises of thebody, and because he often serves them as a mediator betweenthem and the whites, whose language he perfectlyunderstands, although his common language is Indian.Those who surrounded him were not all similarly clothed,nor similarly painted. It was easy to distinguish some differencesin their features and manners. I concluded thatthey were not all of the same tribe. The hunter confirmedme in this opinion by telling me that at this moment, therewere about Kaskaskia three or four camps of Indians,come to sell the furs obtained by their great hunting duringthe winter. He named the different tribes who occupiedthe camps; but their names were so barbarous, or so badlypronounced, that I could not comprehend them; I understooddistinctly only that of Miami, which, repeated threeor four times, roused from his apathy a little man, whountil then stood motionless before me, wrapped in a blanket;his face, bloated by intemperance, was painted red,blue, and yellow. At the name of Miami, he raised hishead, assumed an air of ridiculous dignity, and said, “Ishould be the chief of the Miami nation. My grandfatherwas chief, my father was chief; but the Miami have unjustlydecided that I should not succeed my father, andnow, instead of having a great quantity of furs to sell, Ihave none; I shall quit Kaskaskia without being able tobuy arms, powder, or tobacco.” While he thus spoke, aman painted in the same way, but of a very lofty statureand athletic form, regarded him with a disdainful air, andsaid, after tapping him on the shoulder, “Dare you to complainof the justice of the Miami? Thy grandfather wasour chief, sayest thou? thy father was also? But hast thou135then forgotten that thy grandfather was the bravest of ourwarriors, and that the wisdom of thy father was heard inour councils as the voice of the Great Spirit? But, bywhat title wouldst thou command among men? Feebleas an old woman, thou hast not even the courage to huntto satisfy thy wants, and thou wouldst sell us to the whitesfor a bottle of whiskey.” A contemptuous gesture terminatedthis rude apostrophe, which was translated intoFrench for me at the time by the stout hunter; and the fallenprince, sadly leaning on a small bow, similar to thosewith which the Indian boys exercise, kept silence. Hisfate seemed to me truly deserving of pity; I could not,however, avoid feeling a sentiment of esteem for the Miamination, who do not believe that legitimacy in a prince cansupply the place of all the virtues.

I was still among the Indians, questioning the hunter asto the situation and force of their tribes, which civilizationis rapidly diminishing, when I saw the secretary of thegovernor of Louisiana, Mr. Caire, approach, who came topropose that I should go with him to visit an Indian encampment,at a very short distance from the village. Iconsented, and we set off immediately, in order to returnby the dinner hour. Leaving Kaskaskia, we crossed ariver of the same name, on a wooden bridge solidly builtand firmly connected. We then marched about twentyminutes on the plain, to the entrance of a forest, which wepenetrated by a straight path traced along a rivulet. Aswe advanced, the ground suddenly elevated itself to theright and left, and we quickly found ourselves in a kind ofpass, formed by a succession of small hills, covered withthickets. After about a quarter of an hour’s walk, wearrived at a fence, which we climbed, and behind whichtwo horses attracted our attention by the noise of the bellshung round their necks. A little further on, the passenlarging, formed a delightful little valley, in the middle ofwhich some huts of bark were raised in a half circle; thiswas the Indian camp we sought. The openings of thesehuts were all towards the centre of the circle, and theplanks elevated about three feet from the ground, wereslightly inclined, like the cover of a field bed. With theexception of a very old woman cooking at a fire in theopen air, we found no person in the camp. Either from136spite, or because she neither comprehended French norEnglish, this woman would reply to none of our questions,and saw us with the greatest indifference, look at, and evenhandle, all the objects which attracted our curiosity in thehuts. All was arranged with sufficient order, and it waseasy to recognize the places occupied by the women, bythe little utensils of the toilet, such as looking-glasses, pins,bags of paint, &c. which we remarked there. After a minuteexamination of this little camp, we were about toleave it, when I was arrested on the border of the streamletwhich ran through it, by the sight of a small mill-wheel,which appeared to have been thrown on the bank by therapidity of the current. I took it up and placed it whereI thought it had originally been put by the children, on twostones elevated a little above the water; and the currentstriking the wings, made it turn rapidly. This puerility,(which probably would have passed from my memory, if,on the same evening, it had not placed me before the Indians,in a situation sufficiently extraordinary,) greatlyexcited the attention of the old woman, who, by her gestures,expressed to us a lively satisfaction.

On returning to Kaskaskia, we found Mr. de Syon, anamiable young Frenchman of much intelligence, who, onthe invitation of General Lafayette, left Washington citywith us to visit the southern and western states. Like ushe had just made an excursion into the neighbourhood, andappeared quite joyous at the discovery he had made; hehad met, in the midst of the forest, at the head of a troopof Indians, a pretty young woman, who spoke French verywell, and expressed herself with a grace at which heappeared as much astonished as we were. She had askedhim if it was true, that Lafayette was at Kaskaskia, and onhis replying affirmatively, she manifested a great desire tosee him. “I always carry with me,” said she to Mr. deSyon, “a relique, that is very dear to me; I would wish toshow it to him; it will prove to him that his name is notless venerated in the midst of our tribes, than among thewhite Americans, for whom he fought.” And in speakingthus, she drew from her bosom a little pouch which encloseda letter carefully wrapped in several pieces of paper. “Itis from Lafayette,” said she, “he wrote it to my father along time since, and my father, when he died, left it to me137as the most precious thing he possessed.” At the sight ofthis letter, Mr. de Syon proposed to the Indian girl to gowith him to Kaskaskia, assuring her that General Lafayettewould be very much pleased to see her; but this propositionseemed to embarrass her, and under various pretexts,she refused to come. “However,” she added, “if you haveany thing to say to me this evening, you will find me in mycamp, which is close by the village; any one can directyou the way, for I am well known at Kaskaskia. My nameis Mary.”

This recital of Mr. de Syon excited my curiosity keenly,and I would have willingly returned with him immediatelyto search for Mary; but, at this moment, a member ofthe committee of Kaskaskia came to inform me that theywere about to sit down to dinner, and we saw General Lafayettegoing out of Colonel Edgar’s, escorted by many citizensand crossing to Colonel Sweet’s house where we wereto dine. We joined the procession and took our places attable, where the general was seated under a canopy offlowers prepared by the ladies of Kaskaskia, with muchskill and taste; and which produced, by the blending ofthe richest and most lively colours, the effect of a rainbow.

I spoke to General Lafayette of the meeting with theyoung Indian girl; and from the desire he manifested tosee her, I left the table with Mr. de Syon, at the momentwhen the company began to exchange patriotic toasts, andwe sought a guide to Mary’s camp. Chance assisted uswonderfully, in directing us to an Indian of the same tribethat we wished to visit. Conducted by him, we crossed thebridge of Kaskaskia, and notwithstanding the darkness,soon recognized the path and rivulet I had seen in themorning with Mr. Caire. When we were about to enterthe enclosure, we were arrested by the fierce barking oftwo stout dogs which sprang at, and would probably havebitten us, but for the timely interference of our guide. Wearrived at the middle of the camp, which was lighted by alarge fire, around which a dozen Indians were squatted,preparing their supper; they received us with cordiality,and, as soon as they were informed of the object of ourvisit, one of them conducted us to Mary’s hut, whom wefound sleeping on a bison skin. At the voice of Mr. de Syon,138which she recognized, she arose, and listened attentively tothe invitation from General Lafayette to come to Kaskaskia;she seemed quite flattered by it, but said before decidingto accompany us she wished to mention it to herhusband. While she was consulting with him, I heard apiercing cry; and turning round I saw near me the oldwoman I had found alone in the camp in the morning: shehad just recognized me by the light of the fire, and designatedme to her companions, who, quitting immediately theiroccupations, rushed round me in a circle, and began todance with demonstrations of great joy and gratitude.Their tawny and nearly naked bodies, their faces fantasticallypainted, their expressive gesticulations, the reflectionof the fire, which gave a red tinge to all the surroundingobjects, every thing gave to this scene something of an infernalaspect, and I fancied myself for an instant in themidst of demons. Mary, witnessing my embarrassment,put an end to it, by ordering the dance to cease, and thenexplained to me the honours which they had just renderedme. “When we wish to know if an enterprize we meditatewill be happy, we place in a rivulet a small wheelslightly supported on two stones; if the wheel turns duringthree suns, without being thrown down, the augury is favourable:but if the current carry it away, and throws it uponthe bank, it is a certain proof that our project is not approvedby the Great Spirit, unless however a strangercomes to replace the little wheel before the end of thethird day. You are this stranger who have restored ourmanitou and our hopes, and this is your title to be thuscelebrated among us.” In pronouncing these last words,an ironical smile played on her lips, which caused me todoubt her faith in the manitou. “You do not appear to bevery much convinced,” said I to her, “of the efficacy of theservice which I have rendered you in raising the manitou?”She silently shook her head; then raising her eyes, “I havebeen taught,” said she, “to place my confidence higher;—allmy hopes are in the God I have been taught to believein; the God of the Christians.”

I had at first been much astonished to hear an Indianwoman speak French so well, and I was not less so in learningthat she was a Christian; Mary perceived it, and to putan end to my surprise, she related to me her history, while139her husband, and those who were to accompany her toKaskaskia, hastily took their supper, of maize cooked inmilk. She informed me that her father, who was a chiefof one of the nations who inhabited the shores of the greatlakes of the north, had formerly fought with a hundred ofhis followers under the orders of Lafayette, when the lattercommanded an army on the frontiers. That he had acquiredmuch glory, and gained the friendship of the Americans.A long time after, that is, about twenty years ago,he left the shores of the great lakes with some of his warriors,his wife and daughter; and after having marched along time, he established himself on the shores of the riverIllinois. “I was very young, then, but have not yet, however,forgotten the horrible sufferings we endured duringthis long journey, made in a rigorous winter, across a countrypeopled by nations with whom we were unacquainted;they were such, that my poor mother, who nearly alwayscarried me on her shoulders, already well loaded with baggage,died under them some days after our arrival; my fatherplaced me under the care of another woman, who alsoemigrated with us, and occupied himself in securing thetranquil possession of the lands on which we had come toestablish ourselves, by forming alliances with our newneighbours. The Kickapoos were those who received usbest, and we soon considered ourselves as forming a part oftheir nation. The year following my father was chosen bythem, with some from among themselves, to go and regulatesome affairs of the nation with the agent of the UnitedStates, residing here at Kaskaskia; he wished that I shouldbe of the company; for, although the Kickapoos had shownthemselves very generous and hospitable towards him, hefeared that some war might break out in his absence, as hewell knew the intrigues of the English to excite the Indiansagainst the Americans. This same apprehension inducedhim to accede to the request made by the American agent,to leave me in his family, to be educated with his infantdaughter. My father had much esteem for the whites ofthat great nation for whom he had formerly fought; henever had cause to complain of them, and he who offeredto take charge of me inspired him with great confidence bythe frankness of his manners, and above all, by the fidelitywith which he treated the affairs of the Indians; he, therefore,140left me, promising to return to see me every year afterthe great winter’s hunt; he came, in fact, several times afterwards;and I, notwithstanding the disagreeableness of asedentary life, grew up, answering the expectations of mycareful benefactor and his wife. I became attached to theirdaughter, who grew up with me, and the truths of theChristian religion easily supplanted in my mind the superstitionof my fathers, whom I had scarcely known; yet, Iconfess to you, notwithstanding the influence of religionand civilization on my youthful heart, the impressions ofinfancy were not entirely effaced. If the pleasure of wanderingconducted me into the shady forest, I breathed morefreely, and it was with reluctance that I returned home;when, in the cool of the evening, seated in the door of myadopted father’s habitation, I heard in the distance, throughthe silence of the night, the piercing voice of the Indians,rallying to return to camp, I started with a thrill of joy, andmy feeble voice imitated the voice of the savage with a facilitythat affrighted my young companion; and when occasionallysome warriors came to consult my benefactor inregard to their treaties, or hunters to offer him a part of theproduce of their chase, I was always the first to run tomeet and welcome them; I testified my joy to them byevery imaginable means, and I could not avoid admiringand wishing for their simple ornaments, which appeared tome far preferable to the brilliant decorations of the whites.

“In the meanwhile, for five years my father had not appearedat the period of the return from the winter’s hunting;but a warrior, whom I had often seen with him, cameand found me one evening at the entrance of the forest, andsaid to me: ‘Mary, thy father is old and feeble, he hasbeen unable to follow us here; but he wishes to see theeonce more before he dies, and he has charged me to conductthee to him.’ In saying these words he forcibly tookmy hand, and dragged me with him. I had not even timeto reply to him, nor even to take any resolution, before wewere at a great distance, and I saw well that there wasno part left for me, but to follow him. We marchednearly all night, and at the dawn of day, we arrived at a barkhut, built in the middle of a little valley. Here I saw myfather, his eyes turned towards the just rising sun. His facewas painted as for battle. His tomahawk ornamented with141many scalps, was beside him; he was calm and silent as anIndian who awaited death. As soon as he saw me he drewout of a pouch a paper wrapped with care in a very dryskin, and gave it me, requesting that I should preserve it asa most precious thing. ‘I wished to see thee once morebefore dying,’ said he, ‘and to give thee this paper, whichis the most powerful charm (manitou) which thou canstemploy with the whites to interest them in thy favour; forall those to whom I have shown it have manifested towardsme a particular attachment. I received it from a greatFrench warrior, whom the English dreaded as muchas the Americans loved, and with whom I fought in myyouth.’ After these words my father was silent, next morninghe expired. Sciakape, the name of the warrior whocame for me, covered the body of my father with the branchesof trees, and took me back to my guardian.”

Here Mary suspended her narrative, and presented to mea letter a little darkened by time, but in good preservation.“Stay,” said she to me, smiling, “you see that I have faithfullycomplied with the charge of my father; I have takengreat care of his manitou.” I opened the letter and recognizedthe signature and handwriting of General Lafayette.It was dated at head quarters, Albany, June, 1778, afterthe northern campaign, and addressed to Panisciowa, anIndian chief of one of the Six Nations, to thank him for thecourageous manner in which he had served the Americancause.

“Well,” said Mary, “now that you know me wellenough to introduce me to General Lafayette, shall we goto him that I may also greet him whom my father reveredas the courageous warrior and the friend of our nations?”“Willingly,” I replied, “but it seems to me that you havepromised to inform us in what manner, after having tastedfor some time the sweets of civilization, you came to returnto the rude and savage life of the Indians?” At this question,Mary looked downwards and seemed troubled.However, after a slight hesitation, she resumed in a lowertone: “After the death of my father, Sciakape oftenreturned to see me. We soon became attached to eachother; he did not find it difficult to determine me to followhim into the forest, where I became his wife. This resolutionat first very much afflicted my benefactors; but142when they saw that I found myself happy, they pardonedme; and each year, during all the time that our encampmentis established near Kaskaskia, I rarely pass a daywithout going to see them; if you wish, we can visit them,for their house is close by our way, and you will see bythe reception they will give me, that they retain theiresteem and friendship.” Mary pronounced these lastwords with a degree of pride, which proved to us that shefeared that we might have formed a bad opinion of her, onaccount of her flight from the home of her benefactorswith Sciakape. We accepted her proposition, and shegave the signal for departure. At her call, her husbandand eight warriors presented themselves to escort us. M.de Syon offered her his arm, and we began our march.We were all very well received by the family of Mr. Mesnard;but Mary above all received the most tendermarks of affection from the persons of the household.Mr. Mesnard, Mary’s adopted father, was at Kaskaskia, asone of the committee charged with the reception of Lafayette,and Mrs. Mesnard asked us if we would undertaketo conduct her daughter to the ball which she herself wasprevented from attending by indisposition. We assentedwith pleasure; and, while Mary assisted Miss Mesnard tocomplete her toilet, we seated ourselves round a great firein the kitchen. Scarcely were we seated, when I sawmoving in the corner, a black mass, of which I had at firsta difficulty in recognising the nature and form; but, afteran attentive examination, I found it was an old negrodoubled by age. His face was so much wrinkled anddeformed by time, that it was impossible to distinguish init a single feature, and I guessed the place of his mouth bythe little cloud of tobacco-smoke which escaped thence,from time to time. This man appeared to give greatattention to the conversation which took place betweenus and a young man of Mr. Mesnard’s family; when heunderstood that we travelled with General Lafayette, andthat we came from St. Louis, he asked if we had foundmany Frenchmen there. I replied that we had seen some,and, among others, Mr. Choteau, the founder of the town.“What!” cried he with a loud voice, which seemed not tobelong to so decrepid a body—“What! you found thelittle Choteau? Oh! I know him well, so I do, that little143Choteau; we have travelled a great deal together on theMississippi, and that at a time when very few of the whiteshad come this far.” “But do you know,” said I, “that hewhom you call the little Choteau is very old, that he iscertainly more than ninety years of age?” “Oh! I believethat well! but what of that? that does not preventthat I should know him well, when a child.” “Of whatage are you, then?” “Of that I know nothing, as theynever taught me to count. All that I know is, that I leftNew Orleans with my master, who made part of the expeditionsent by the Navigation Company of the Mississippi,under the orders of the young Choteau, to go and build afort high up the river. Young Choteau was hardly seventeen,but he was commander of the expedition, because hisfather was, they said, one of the richest proprietors of thecompany. After having rowed a long time against thecurrent and suffered great fatigue, we arrived at last notfar from here, where we set about building Fort Chartres.It seems as if I was now there; I see from here the greatstones which bore the great arches we built. Every oneof us said, ‘Here is a fort will last longer than us all, andlonger than our children.’ I also believed it well, and yetI have seen the last of it; for it is now in ruins, and I amyet living. Do you know, sir, how many years it is sincewe built Fort Chartres?” “At least eighty years, if I amnot deceived.” “Well, count, and you will know verynearly my age. I was then at least thirty years old, forthe little Choteau appeared to me a child; I have alreadyserved three masters, and I have suffered a great deal.”“According to that account, you are a hundred and tenyears old, Daddy Francis.” “Yes, indeed, I believe Iam at the least that, for it is a long time that I havelaboured and suffered.” “How!” said the young manwho was seated near him, “do you suffer now, Francis?”“Oh! pardon me, sir, I speak not of the time I have livedin this house. Since I belonged to Mr. Mesnard it is verydifferent; I am now happy. Instead of serving others,they all serve me. Mr. Mesnard will not even allow meto go and bring in a little wood for the fire; he says I amtoo old for that. But I must tell the truth, Mr. Mesnardis not a master to me; he is a man—he is a friend.”

This homage of the old slave, rendered to the humanity144of his master, gave us a high idea of the character of Mr.Mesnard. While we were yet listening to old Francis,Mary and Miss Mesnard came to inform us that they wereready, and asked us if we would be on our way, as it beganto grow late. We took leave of Mrs. Mesnard, and foundour Indian escort who had waited patiently for us at thedoor, and who resumed their position near us at some distancein front, to guide and protect our march, as if wehad been crossing an enemy’s country. The night wasquite dark, but the temperature was mild, and the fire-fliesilluminated the atmosphere around us. M. de Syon conductedMiss Mesnard, and I gave my arm to Mary, who,notwithstanding the darkness, walked with a confidenceand lightness which only a forest life could produce. Thefire-flies attracted and interested me much; for, althoughthis was not the first time I had observed them, I had neverbefore seen them in such numbers. I asked Mary if theseinsects, which from their appearance seem so likely toastonish the imagination, had never given place among theIndians to popular beliefs or tales. “Not among thenations of these countries, where every year we are familiarisedwith their great numbers,” said she to me, “but Ihave heard that among the tribes of the north, they commonlybelieve that they are the souls of departed friends,who return to console them or demand the performance ofsome promise. I even know several ballads on this subject.One of them appears to have been made a longtime since, in a nation which lives farther north and nolonger exists. It is by songs that great events and populartraditions are ordinarily preserved among us, and this ballad,which I have often heard sung by the young girls ofour tribe, leaves no doubt as to the belief of some Indiansconcerning the fire-fly.” I asked her to sing me this song,which she did with much grace. Although I did not comprehendthe words, which were Indian, I observed a greatharmony in their arrangement, and, in the very simplemusic in which they were sung, an expression of deepmelancholy.

When she had finished the ballad, I asked her if shecould not translate it for me into French, so that I mightcomprehend the sense. “With difficulty,” she said, “forI have always found great obstacles to translating exactly145the expressions of our Indians into French, when I haveserved them as interpreter with the whites; but I will try.”And she translated nearly as follows:

“The rude season of the chase was over. Antakaya,the handsomest, the most skilful, and bravest of the Cherokeewarriors, came to the banks of the Avolachy, where hewas expected by Manahella, the young virgin promised tohis love and bravery.

“The first day of the moon of flowers was to witnesstheir union. Already had the two families, assembled roundthe same fire, given their assent; already had the youngmen and women prepared and ornamented the new cabin,which was to receive the happy couple, when, at the risingof the sun, a terrible cry, the cry of war, sent forth by thescout who always watches at the summit of the hill, calledthe old men to the council, and the warriors to arms.

“The whites appeared on the frontier. Murder androbbery accompanied them. The star of fertility had notreached its noontide height, and already Antakaya had departedat the head of his warriors to repel robbery, murder,and the whites.

“Go, said Manahella to him, endeavouring to stifle hergrief, go fight the cruel whites, and I will pray to the GreatSpirit to wrap thee with a cloud, proof against their blows.I will pray him to bring thee back to the banks of theAvolachy, there to be loved by Manahella.

“I will return to thee, replied Antakaya, I will return tothee. My arrows have never disappointed my aim, mytomahawk shall be bathed in the blood of the whites; Iwill bring back their scalps to ornament the door of thycabin; then I shall be worthy of Manahella; then shall welove in peace, then shall we be happy.

“The first day of the moon of flowers had brightly dawned,and many more had passed away, and none had heardfrom Antakaya and his warriors. Stooping on the shores ofthe Avolachy, the mournful Manahella every evening raisedto the evil spirits little pyramids of polished pebbles, toappease their anger and avert their resistance to her well beloved;but the evil spirits were inflexible, and their violentblasts overthrew the little pyramids.

“One evening of the last moon of flowers, Manahella meton the banks of the river a pale and bloody warrior. ‘Die,146poor ivy,’ said he to Manahella; ‘die! the noblest oak of theforest, that proud oak under whose shade thou hoped toenjoy repose and happiness, is fallen! It has fallen underthe redoubled strokes of the whites. In its fall it has crushedthose who felled it, but it is fallen! Die, poor ivy, die!for the oak which was to give thee support is fallen!’—Twodays after, Manahella was no more.

“Antakaya, whose courage had been deceived by fate,had fallen covered with wounds into the hands of thewhites, who carried him far away. But he escaped; andafter wandering long through the forest, he returned tomourn his defeat and meditate vengeance with Manahella.When he arrived, she was no more. Agitated bythe most violent despair, he ran in the evening to the banksof the Avolachy, calling Manahella, but the echo alone repliedto the accents of his grief.

“O Manahella! he exclaimed, if my arrows have disappointedmy skill, if my tomahawk has not spilt the blood ofthe whites, if I have not brought thee their scalps to ornamentthe door of thy cabin, forgive me! It is not the faultof my courage, the evil spirits have fought against me.And yet I have suffered no complaint to escape me, not asigh, when the iron of my enemies tore my breast; I havenot abased myself by asking my life! They preserved itagainst my will, and I am only consoled by the hope of oneday avenging myself, and offering thee many of their scalps.O Manahella! come, if but to tell me that thou pardonestme, and that thou permittest me to follow thee into theworld of the Great Spirit.

“At the same instant a vivid light, pure and lambent,appeared to the eyes of the unfortunate Antakaya. He sawin it the soul of his beloved, and followed it through thevalley during all the night, supplicating it to stay and topardon him. At the dawn of the day he found himself onthe border of a great lake; the light had disappeared, andhe believed that it had passed over the water. Immediately,although feeble and fatigued, he made a canoe of thetrunk of a tree which he hollowed, and with a branch hemade a paddle. At the end of the day his work wasachieved. With the darkness the deceptive light returned;and during all the night Antakaya pursued the delusion onthe face of the unsteady waters. But it again disappeared147before the light of the sun, and with it vanished the slightbreath of hope and the life of Antakaya.”

Mary ended her ballad, and I expressed to her my thanksas we arrived at the bridge of Kaskaskia. There, Sciakapecollected his escort, said a few words to his wife, and leftus to enter the village alone. We approached the house ofMr. Morrison, at which the ball was given to General Lafayette.I then felt that Mary trembled; her trouble wasso great that she could not conceal it from me. I asked herthe cause. If you would spare me a great mortification,she said, you will not conduct me among the ladies of Kaskaskia.They are now without doubt in their most brilliantdresses, and the coarseness of my clothes will inspirethem with contempt and pity, two sentiments which willequally affect me. Besides I know that they blame me forhaving renounced the life of the whites, and I feel little atease in their presence. I promised what she desired, andshe became reassured. Arrived at Mr. Morrison’s, I conductedher into a lower chamber, and went to the hall toinform General Lafayette that the young Indian girl awaitedhim below. He hastened down, and several of thecommittee with him. He saw and heard Mary with pleasure,and could not conceal his emotion on recognizing hisletter, and observing with what holy veneration it had beenpreserved during nearly half a century in a savage nation,among whom he had not even supposed his name had everpenetrated. On her part, the daughter of Panisciowa expressedwith vivacity the happiness she enjoyed in seeinghim, along with whom her father had the honour tofight for the good American cause.

After a half hour’s conversation, in which General Lafayettewas pleased to relate the evidences of the fidelityand courageous conduct of some Indian nations towardsthe Americans, during the revolutionary war, Mary manifesteda wish to retire, and I accompanied her to thebridge, where I replaced her under the care of Sciakapeand his escort, and bade them farewell.

At midnight, the general received the farewell of theladies and citizens of Kaskaskia, who were assembled atMr. Morrison’s, and we returned on board our boat, tocontinue immediately our navigation towards the mouthof the Ohio. Governor Coles greatly wished that we148should cross that part of the state of Illinois comprised inthe angle formed by the two great rivers, and meet theboat again at Shawneetown, where we should have beenable to visit the salt mines, which are said to be very fine;but besides that this would have taken more time than hecould devote to this visit, this route did not accord withthe plan of ascending the Cumberland river to Nashville,where the envoys from Tennessee were charged to conducthim. Mr. Coles embarked with us to accompany thegeneral to the state of Tennessee, and we felt a real pleasureon account of it, for he is a man of agreeable conversationand extraordinary merit. All persons agree in sayingthat he fulfils his duties as governor with as much philanthropyas justice. He owes his elevation to the office ofgovernor, to his opinions on the abolition of the slavery ofthe blacks. He was originally a proprietor in Virginia,where, according to the custom of the country, he cultivatedhis lands by negro slaves. After having for a longtime strongly expressed his aversion for this kind of culture,he thought it his duty to put in practice the principleshe had professed, and he decided to give liberty to all hisslaves; but knowing that their emancipation in Virginiawould be more injurious than useful to them, he took themall with him into the state of Illinois, where he not onlygave them their liberty, but also established them at hisown expense, in such a manner that they should be able toprocure for themselves a happy existence by their labour.This act of justice and humanity considerably diminishedhis fortune, but occasioned him no regrets. At this period,some men, led astray by ancient prejudices, endeavoured toamend that article of the constitution of the state of Illinois,which prohibits slavery: Mr. Coles opposed these menwith all the ardour of his philanthropic soul, and with allthe superiority of his enlightened mind. In this honourablestruggle, he was sustained by the people of Illinois; justiceand humanity triumphed, and soon after Mr. Coles waselected governor, by an immense majority. This was anhonourable recompense, and to this there is now joinedanother which must be very grateful to him; his liberatednegroes are perfectly successful, and afford a conclusiveargument against the adversaries of emancipation.

Some hours after our departure from Kaskaskia, we149were at the mouth of the Ohio, which we ascended to themouth of Cumberland river, where we arrived before night.There we awaited the steam-boat Artizan, to take us toNashville. When it was necessary for us to quit theNatchez, and our travelling companions from Louisiana,we experienced an oppression of feeling as if we werequitting our family and home. This feeling will be easilycomprehended, when it is understood that we had passednearly a month and travelled nearly eighteen hundred mileson board this boat, in the midst of a society, amiable, intelligent,and obliging, and of which each individual hadbecome for us an amiable friend. On their side, MessieursMorse, Ducros, Prieur, and Caire, manifested to us regretsnot less sincere. Notwithstanding their long absence fromNew Orleans, they would have voluntarily prolonged theirmission, to pass a longer time with their dear Lafayette;and our excellent Captain Davis warmly expressed his regretsat seeing another vessel than his own about to receivethe nation’s guest; but on the other hand, the envoys fromTennessee were not disposed to cede to others the right ofdoing the honours of their state; and even if they hadchosen to accept the services of Captain Davis, they wereforced to renounce them, because the Natchez was unfit tonavigate the shallow waters of the Cumberland. We were,therefore, obliged to take leave of the Louisianian committee,and that of the state of Mississippi, with great regret,and go on board of the Artizan, where we werereceived and treated in a manner that foretold we wouldsoon experience a renewal of our sorrow in separating fromour new companions.

Cumberland River—Arrival at Nashville—Tennessee Militia—Residenceof General Jackson—Shipwreck on the Ohio—Louisville—Journeyfrom Louisville to Cincinnati by land—State of Kentucky—Anecdote.

On the 2d of May, at 8 o’clock in the evening, we enteredCumberland river, which we ascended all night, notwithstandingthe darkness. This river, which is one of thelargest tributaries of the Ohio, rises to the westward ofCumberland mountains, waters the state of Kentucky byits two branches, and Ohio by its main stream, which formsa great bend; it is navigable for about 400 miles. By daylightwe were able to judge of the richness of the countryit traverses, from the great number of boats, loaded with allkinds of produce, that we passed. As the banks of Cumberlandriver are flat, and sometimes swampy, from itsmouth to the vicinity of Nashville, no town is met with onits shores; all the establishments are situated some distanceback, and, therefore, we were unable to visit them; butmany of the inhabitants came in boats to salute the general,this retarded our progress, as we were obliged to stopevery moment to receive or dismiss the visiters.

Wednesday, May 4th, we remarked that the banks of theriver were considerably elevated above our heads, and presentedagreeable and healthy situations for cities or villages;at 8 o’clock no houses were, as yet, in sight, but we heardin the distance the sound of bells, announcing our vicinityto population, and preparations for some solemnity; a fewmoments afterwards we perceived on the horizon the spiresof buildings, and on a plain at a short distance from us adense crowd of men, women, and children, who appearedto be expecting with great solicitude the arrival of somethingextraordinary, and when our vessel came sufficientlynear to be recognized, a joyful shout arose from the shore,and the air resounded with cries of “Welcome, Lafayette;”this was the salutation of the inhabitants of Nashville to theguest of the nation. This welcome was continued without151interruption until we had arrived beyond the city, at theplace for disembarking, where the general was received bythe illustrious Jackson, who ascended a carriage with himto conduct him to Nashville, several corps of cavalry precededthem, and the procession formed behind them wascomposed of all our fellow travellers, joined by a multitudeof citizens from the neighbourhood; we entered the cityby a wide avenue, lined on each side by militia remarkablefor the brilliancy of their uniforms, and their soldier-likeappearance under arms; it was easy to recognise by theirmartial air, that their ranks contained great numbers ofthose intrepid citizen soldiers, by whom the English wereoverthrown under the walls of New Orleans. In enteringthe city, the procession passed under a triumphal arch, onthe summit of which were these words, also repeated atevery moment by the crowd, “Welcome, Lafayette, thefriend of the United States!” Above this floated the Americanflag, attached to a lance surmounted by a liberty cap.After having traversed the principal streets, we arrived atthe public square, which was decorated with thousands offlags, suspended from the windows; it was also ornamentedby a triumphal arch, under which was an elevated platform,where the governor of the state waited to salute the guestof the nation. His speech was not only touching from thesentiments of affection and gratitude with which it was filled,but it was also remarkable for the truth and fidelitywith which it sketched the actual situation of Tennessee,and the rapidity of its growth under the influence of libertyand wise laws. General Lafayette replied with that heartfeltemotion, and that happy choice of expression, which sooften, during his journey, excited the astonishment and admirationof those who heard him. Forty officers and soldiersof the revolution, the most part enfeebled by age, andsome mutilated in war, notwithstanding which they had assembledfrom all parts of the state to assist at the triumphof their old general, now advanced from the two sides ofthe arch, amidst the acclamations of the people, and showeredupon him marks of affection and patriotic recollections;among them was one, remarkable above all theothers for his great age, and the vivacity with which heexpressed his joy; he threw himself into the general’s arms,weeping and exclaiming, “I have enjoyed two happy days152in my life, that when I landed with you at Charleston in1777, and the present, now that I have seen you once again,I have nothing more to wish for, I have lived long enough.”The emotion of this old man was communicated to thewhole crowd, and there was a profound silence for sometime. Notwithstanding his infirmities he had travelledmore than fifty leagues to procure this moment of happiness.We afterwards learnt that his name was Hagy, that he wasborn in Germany, and that he had come over to Americain the vessel with Lafayette, and had been under his ordersduring the whole war of the revolution. General Lafayette,after devoting a few moments to the affection of hisold companions in arms, re-entered the carriage with thegovernor, and went to the beautiful residence of Dr.M’Nairy, who had prepared accommodations for us, andwho, with his whole family, received us with the mostamiable hospitality. The general was received at the doorby the municipal body and the mayor, who addressed himin the name of the inhabitants of Nashville. After the replyof the general to this speech, the people gave threecheers, and retired in silence, to permit their guest to takea little repose before dinner; but the general profited bythis occasion to visit Mrs. Jackson, whom he understood tobe in the town, and to Mrs. Littlefield, the daughter of hisold fellow soldier and friend, General Greene.

At four o’clock another procession came to conduct usto a public dinner, at which more than two hundred citizenssat down, and which was presided over by GeneralJackson. Among the guests was a venerable old man,named Timothy Demundrune, the first white man who settledin Tennessee. According to the American custom,the repast was terminated by the frank and energetic expressionof each guest’s opinion on the acts of the administration,and the public character of the magistrates, andcandidates for the different offices; among these numeroustoasts I will only cite the three following, which appearedto me as peculiarly well adapted to demonstrate the predominantsentiments of the people of Tennessee.

“The present age—it encourages the reign of liberalprinciples. Kings are forced to unite against liberty, anddespotism to act on the defensive.”

153“France—republican or monarchical, in glory or misfortune,she always has claims on our gratitude.”

“Lafayette—tyrants have oppressed him, but freemenhonour him.”

After this last toast, the general rose, expressed his thanks,and begged permission to give the following: “The Stateof Tennessee, and Nashville, its capital—may our heritageof revolutionary glory be for ever united to the unfadinglaurels of the last war, and thus form a perpetual bond ofunion between all parts of the American confederation.”

The president then gave the signal for departure, and wewent to the masonic lodge, where three hundred brothers,in the most brilliant costume, received us with the mostaffectionate cordiality. We passed a true family eveningwith them. An eloquent orator, Mr. William Hunt, deliveredan excellent discourse, which, in a masonic form,embodied the most noble precepts of patriotism and philanthropy;and the meeting terminated by an elegant collation,at the end of which the general proposed a toast,which was received with the greatest enthusiasm; it wasto the memory of our illustrious brother Riego, the martyrof liberty! In retiring to our quarters at Dr. M‘Nairy’s,we found the town brilliantly illuminated, and a greatnumber of houses decorated with transparencies representingGeneral Lafayette, with a variety of ingeniousemblems.

The next morning, as soon as we rose, we proceededto the southward of the city, where we found allthe militia of the adjoining counties collected in a camp,which they occupied for some days whilst waiting for thearrival of Lafayette; some of the corps we saw under arms,had come, we were told, more than fifty miles, to add bytheir presence to the solemnity of the reception given tothe guest of the nation. The general, after having seenthem manœuvre before him, went through their ranks toexpress his admiration of their discipline, and his gratitudefor the proofs of affection they had shown him. Duringthis time, Mr. George Lafayette and myself conversed withan officer of the staff, who had the goodness to give ussome details as to the organization of the military force ofTennessee.

This officer might perhaps be thought to have been enthusiastic154in his praises, and to have shown much nationalvanity, but I am persuaded he only spoke as he felt. Heextolled the military qualities of his fellow citizens, fromconviction, and as he would have praised, in strangers, anypoints he thought worthy of commendation. I have oftenremarked that the Americans, in general, are little givento the species of hypocrisy we term modesty, and withwhich we think we should always veil ourselves when weare speaking of our own virtues. They believe, and I amof their opinion, that true modesty does not consist in depreciatingourselves, but in not speaking with exaggerationor without cause of our own merits.

A frugal repast, prepared and served by the military,under a tent, terminated this visit to the camp of the Tennesseemilitia, after which we returned to the city, wherewe successively visited an academy of young ladies ofNashville, and Cumberland college. In both these establishments,the general was received as a beloved father,and he left them with the sweet and consoling certainty,that the careful and excellent manner in which they inculcatedlearning and a love of liberty, would greatly augmentthe glory and perpetuate the happiness of his adoptedcountry. The committee of instruction of Cumberlandcollege, presented to him and to General Jackson, a resolutionof the trustees, by which two new chairs, under thenames of Lafayette and Jackson, for teaching the languagesand philosophy, were about to be established by avoluntary subscription of the citizens of Tennessee. Theyboth accepted this honour with great satisfaction, and subscribedtheir names at the bottom of the resolution beforeleaving the establishment, which, although recently formed,already promises the most satisfactory results.

At one o’clock, we embarked with a numerous company,to proceed to dine with General Jackson, whose residenceis a few miles up the river. We there found numbers ofladies and farmers from the neighbourhood, whom Mrs.Jackson had invited to partake of the entertainment shehad prepared for General Lafayette. The first thing thatstruck me on arriving at the general’s, was the simplicityof his house. Still somewhat influenced by my Europeanhabits, I asked myself if this could really be the dwellingof the most popular man in the United States, of him whom155the country proclaimed one of her most illustrious defenders;of him, finally, who by the will of the people was onthe point of becoming her chief magistrate. One of ourfellow passengers, a citizen of Nashville, witnessing myastonishment, asked me, whether in France, our publicmen, that is to say, the servants of the public, lived verydifferently from other citizens? “Certainly,” said I;“thus, for example, the majority of our generals, all ourministers, and even the greater part of our subaltern administrators,would think themselves dishonoured, and wouldnot dare to receive any one at their houses, if they onlypossessed such a residence as this of Jackson’s; and themodest dwellings of your illustrious chiefs of the revolution,Washington, John Adams, Jefferson, &c. would onlyinspire them with contempt and disgust. They must firsthave in the city an immense and vast edifice, called a hotel,in which two large families could live with ease, but whichthey fill with a crowd of servants strangely and ridiculouslydressed, and whose only employment, for the mostpart, is to insult those honest citizens who come on foot tovisit their master. They must also have another large establishmentin the country, which they call a chateau, and inwhich they accumulate all the luxuries of furniture, decorations,entertainments, and dress, in fact, every thing thatcan make them forget the country. Then they must have,to enable them to go from one to the other of these habitations,a great number of carriages, horses, and servants.”“Very well,” interrupted the Tennessean, shaking hishead as if in doubt, “but who provides these public officerswith all the money thus swallowed up in luxury, andhow do the affairs of the people go on?” “If you askthem, they will tell you that it is the king who pays them,although I can assure you that it is the nation, which isborne down by taxes for the purpose; as to business, it isboth well and badly attended to, but generally the latter.”“And why do you submit to such a state of things?” “Becausewe cannot remedy it.” “What! you cannot remedyit? A nation so great, so enlightened as the French,cannot prevent its officers, magistrates, and servants, fromenjoying, at their expense, a scandalous and immoral luxuriousness,and at the same time not attending to theirduties! whilst we, who have just assumed our name among156nations, are enjoying the immense advantage of only havingfor magistrates, men who are plain, honest, laborious,and more jealous of our esteem than solicitous for wealth.Permit me to believe that what you have told isonly pleasantry, and that you wished to amuse yourself fora moment with a poor Tennessean who has never visitedEurope. But rest assured, that however ignorant we maybe of what passes on the other side of the water, it is noteasy to make us credit things which militate so stronglyagainst good sense and the dignity of man.” Do what Icould, I could never make this good citizen of Nashvillebelieve that I was not jesting, and was obliged to leave himin the belief that we were not worse governed in Francethan in the United States.

General Jackson successively showed us his garden andfarm, which appeared to be well cultivated. We everywhere remarked the greatest order, and most perfectneatness; and we might have believed ourselves on theproperty of one of the richest and most skilful of the Germanfarmers, if, at every step, our eyes had not beenafflicted by the sad spectacle of slavery. Every body toldus that General Jackson’s slaves were treated with thegreatest humanity, and several persons assured us, that itwould not surprise them, if, in a short time, their master,who already had so many claims on the gratitude of hisfellow citizens, should attempt to augment it still more, bygiving an example of gradual emancipation to Tennessee,which would be the more easily accomplished, as thereare in this state but 79,000 slaves in a population of423,000, and from the public mind becoming more inclinedthan formerly to the abolition of slavery.

On returning to the house, some friends of General Jackson,who probably had not seen him for some time, beggedhim to show them the arms presented to him in honour ofhis achievements during the last war; he acceded to theirrequest with great politeness, and placed on a table,a sword, a sabre, and a pair of pistols. The sword waspresented to him by congress; the sabre, I believe, by thearmy which fought under his command at New Orleans.These two weapons, of American manufacture, were remarkablefor their finish, and still more so for the honourableinscriptions, with which they were covered. But it157was to the pistols, that General Jackson wished more particularlyto draw our attention; he handed them to GeneralLafayette, and asked him if he recognized them. Thelatter, after examining them attentively for a few minutes,replied that he fully recollected them, to be a pair he hadpresented in 1778 to his paternal friend Washington, andthat he experienced a real satisfaction in finding them inthe hands of one so worthy of possessing them. At thesewords the face of old Hickory was covered with a modestblush, and his eye sparkled as in a day of victory. “Yes!I believe myself worthy of them,” exclaimed he, in pressingthe pistols and Lafayette’s hands to his breast; “if notfrom what I have done, at least for what I wished to do formy country.” All the bystanders applauded this nobleconfidence of the patriot hero, and were convinced thatthe weapons of Washington could not be in better handsthan those of Jackson.

After dinner we took leave of General Jackson’s family,and returned to Nashville to attend a public ball whichwas very brilliant; and afterwards went on board the Artisanto continue our journey. Governor Carroll of Tennesseeand two of his aides-de-camp accompanied us. Werapidly descended the Cumberland, and on the 7th of Mayagain entered the Ohio, otherwise called “la belle rivière,”for it was thus the first French who discovered its shoresdesignated this majestic body of water, which for elevenhundred miles waters the most smiling and fertile countryon the globe. The Ohio is formed by the junctionof the Monongahela and Alleghany at Pittsburgh, and emptiesitself into the Mississippi about the 37° of latitude. Itscurrent is usually about a mile and a half per hour, butwhen the waters are high, it often equals that of the Mississippi,whose ordinary swiftness is four miles per hour.The water of the Ohio is said by the Americans to possessgreat prolific powers, and when you demand on whatground they found this opinion, they proudly point outthe numerous dwellings which are infinitely multiplied onits banks, and the prodigious number of children who issueforth every morning, with a little basket of provision ontheir arms, to spend the day at school, to return in theevening to the paternal roof, singing the benefits of liberty.

158On the 8th at break of day, we arrived opposite Shawneetown,where we landed with Governor Coles and theother members of the committee from the state of Illinois,and who, to our great regret, could not accompany us anyfarther. General Lafayette accepted a dinner providedfor him by the inhabitants of that town. We continuedour voyage, urging the speed of our small vessel with thewhole power of the engine. Notwithstanding the departureof Governor Coles and his companions, we still hada numerous company on board. All the beds in the greatcabin, were occupied by the deputations from Missouri,Tennessee, Kentucky, and by other persons who had askedpermission to accompany General Lafayette to Louisville.The general, his son, Mr. de Syon, and the author of thisjournal, shared in common, what is called the ladies’ cabin,situated in the stern of the vessel, and which could only bereached by descending about a dozen steps.

During the whole of the 8th we worked hard. Thegeneral replied to a great number of letters, which wereaddressed to him every day from all parts of the Union,and dictated to me some directions to the superintendantat La Grange; indicating what changes and improvementshe wished made before his return to France. Being somewhatfatigued by this labour, he retired early to bed, andwas already asleep, when at 10 o’clock, Mr. George Lafayette,coming below from the deck where he had beenwalking, expressed his astonishment that in so dark a night,our captain did not come to, or at least abate the speed ofthe vessel. We fully agreed in the justice of this remark,but being accustomed for some months to permit no difficultyto arrest us, and to travel at all times, we soon beganto speak of other things, and Mr. George Lafayette also laiddown and slept with every feeling of safety. I remainedconversing with Mr. de Syon and correcting some notes.With the exception of the pilot and two men, every bodywas asleep around us, and at 11 o’clock the profound silencethat reigned on board, was only broken by the deepgrating of the engine and the dashing of the water againstthe sides of the vessel. Twelve o’clock struck, and sleepwas beginning to invite us to repose, when our vesselsuddenly received a horrible shock, and stopped short. Atthis extraordinary concussion, the general awoke with a159start, his son sprung from his bed, half dressed, and I ranon deck to learn what was the matter. I there found twoof our fellow passengers, whom anxiety had brought up,but who were returning, saying we had probably struckon a sand bank, and that there was no danger. Not trustingthis opinion, I went into the great cabin; all the passengerswere in a state of great agitation, but still in doubtas to the nature of the accident; some had not even quittedtheir beds. Decided on not going below without positivelyascertaining the real state of things, I seized a light andran forward, the captain arrived there about the same time,we opened the hatches, and ran forward; the hold was alreadyhalf filled with water, which rushed in torrentsthrough a large opening. “A snag! a snag!” cried thecaptain, “hasten Lafayette to my boat! bring Lafayette tomy boat.” This cry of distress had reached the great cabin,and every mouth repeated it with dismay, but it had notbeen heard in our cabin, where I found the general, whohad, by the advice of his son, permitted himself to be partlydressed by his faithful Bastien. “What news?” said he,on seeing me enter. “That we shall go to the bottom, general,if we cannot extricate ourselves, and we have not amoment to spare.” And I immediately began to collect mypapers, which I threw pell-mell into my port-folio; GeorgeLafayette on his part, hastily collected those objects hethought most necessary to his father, and begged him tofollow us, but his toilet not being yet made, he wished usto go first and provide means of escape. “What!” criedhis son, “do you think that in such circ*mstances we willleave you for a moment?” and immediately we each seizeda hand and dragged him towards the door. He followedus, smiling at our haste, and began to ascend with us, buthad scarcely reached the middle of the stairs, when heperceived that he had forgotten his snuff-box, ornamentedwith a picture of Washington, and wished to return for it;I went to the end of the cabin, found it and brought it tohim. At this time the rolling of the vessel was so violentand irregular, and the tumult over our heads augmented tosuch a degree, that I believed we should not have time toescape before she sunk. At last, we reached the deck,where all the passengers were in the greatest confusion,some bringing their trunks, others looking for the boat,160and crying out for Lafayette. He was already in the midstof them, but owing to the darkness of the night, no onerecognised him; the boat heeled so much to starboard, thatit was with difficulty we could keep our footing on deck.The captain assisted by two sailors, had brought his boatto this side, and I heard his sonorous voice crying out, Lafayette!Lafayette! but we could not reach him on accountof the confusion around us. Nevertheless the vessel heeledmore and more, each moment augmented the danger, wefelt that it was time to make a last effort, and pushed intothe middle of the crowd, where I cried, “here is GeneralLafayette!” This exclamation produced the effect I anticipated.The most profound silence succeeded to theconfusion, a free passage was opened for us, and all thosewho were ready to spring into the boat, spontaneouslychecked themselves, not wishing to think of their ownsafety before that of Lafayette was ascertained. The difficultywas now to determine the general himself to departbefore all his fellow passengers, and almost alone, for theboat would only hold a few persons, but he was soonobliged to yield to the will of all, energetically expressed byeach; the irregular concussions of the vessel, and the rockingof the boat which was more than four feet lower than ourdeck, rendered a passage from one to the other extremely difficult,especially in the dark. The most active young manwould not have hazarded a leap, for from the darkness hewould have risked plunging in the water; great precautionswere therefore to be adopted, as regarded the general.I went first into the boat, and whilst the captain kept heras near as possible to the vessel, two persons descendedwith the general, holding him under the shoulders. I receivedhim in my arms, but his weight added to my ownon the side of the boat, nearly capsized it, and losing myequilibrium, I should probably have fallen into the waterwith him, if Mr. Thibeaudot, formerly president of the senateof Louisiana, had not given me his support, and thussaved us both. As soon as we were assured that the generalwas safely on board, we pushed off as rapidly as possible,to prevent the other passengers from overloading ourslight batteau. Although the greatest difficulties wereovercome, all danger was not passed. The land was to bemade; but at what distance was it from us? towards what161shore should we direct our course? This the darkness of thenight prevented us from ascertaining with certainty. Ourcaptain soon made up his mind with decision. Holdingthe rudder with a firm grasp, he directed us to the leftbank, and ordered his two sailors to row gently. In lessthan three minutes we happily reached a bank coveredwith a thick wood.

In landing, our first care was to count and recogniseeach other; we were nine: the captain, two sailors, GeneralLafayette, Mr. Thibeaudot, Doctor Shelly, carrying inhis arms a child of about seven years of age, a daughter ofa presbyterian clergyman, the father of the child and myself.It was then only that the general perceived that hisson was not with him, and immediately his habitual coolnessin the presence of danger abandoned him. He wasfilled with anxiety, and in a state of the most violent agitation.He began to call, George! George! with all hisstrength, but his voice was drowned by the cries whicharose from the vessel, and by the terrible noise made bythe steam escaping from the engine, and received noanswer. In vain, to re-assure him, I represented to himthat his son was a good swimmer, and that he doubtlesshad remained on board voluntarily, and with his coolnesshe would escape all danger. Nothing had any effect; hecontinued to traverse the shore calling on George. I thenthrew myself into the boat with the captain to go to thesuccour of those who so much needed it. The vessel stillfloated, but almost on her beam ends. The captainmounted on board, and I received in his place a dozenpersons, who precipitated themselves into the boat, andwhom I carried to land, without having been able to speakto George, Mr. de Syon, or Bastien. I dared not give anaccount of this first attempt to the general, and thereforemade preparations for another trip, when a horrible crashand cries of despair announced to me that the vessel wassinking. At the same instant, I heard the water agitatedin several directions by the efforts of those who were savingthemselves by swimming. Mr. Thibeaudot, who hadadvanced into the water in order to judge better of whatwas passing, and to afford assistance to those who neededit, perceived a man, exhausted with fatigue, drowning a fewpaces from the shore, in a spot where the water was only162three feet in depth. He drew him out with such ease, thata child might have rendered him the same service, andlaid him on the grass. But the unfortunate man was soagitated by fear, that he continued to make on land all themovements of swimming, and would perhaps have killedhimself by these useless efforts, if Mr. Thibeaudot had notsucceeded in calming him. At every instant, other personsarrived on shore, and among them I always expectedto recognise Mr. George Lafayette; and the generaldemanded news of his son from all, but in vain. I nowmyself began to fear for him. Another arrival of the boatinformed us that the vessel had not entirely sunk; that thestarboard side was under water, but that the larboard andgangway were still above it; and that a great numberof passengers had taken refuge there. Thinking that therewas an urgent necessity for succouring those who remainedin this critical situation, I again entered the boat, and aidedby a sailor approached the vessel. I first arrived at theprow; I called George with all my strength, but there wasno answer. I then dropped along her side to the stern. Inpassing, I heard a voice over head cry out, “Is that you,Mr. Levasseur?” I listened and examined attentively; itwas our poor Bastien, who was holding with difficulty tothe roof of the upper cabin, the pitch of which was verygreat from the oversetting of the vessel. As soon as Icame near him, he slid down and fortunately fell into theboat. When I arrived at the stern, I again called George;he instantly answered me. His voice appeared to be perfectlycalm. “Are you in safety?” said I. “I could notbe better,” replied he gaily. This reply gave me muchrelief, for my fears were really becoming serious. At thesame instant, Mr. Walsh of Missouri, who was near him,gave me every thing that could be saved of our baggage.This was a small portmanteau of Mr. George Lafayette’s,a bag of his father’s, my own port-folio, which I hadthrown on the deck when I was aiding the general todescend, and about sixty out of the two hundred letterswe had prepared for the post, on the preceding days; allthe others were lost. I now returned to land with Bastienand two other persons I had received in the boat, and hastenedto assure the general of the safety of his son.

As I had satisfied myself that the vessel, having found163support, could not sink any deeper, and consequently thatthere was no farther danger to those on board, I thoughtthat I might dispense with making other voyages, andoccupy myself a little with the general, for whom we establisheda good bivouac around a large fire of dry branches.In the midst of this occupation, Mr. George and Mr. deSyon, with the remainder of the passengers, arrived. Wethen learnt that at the moment of the wreck, Mr. George,seeing that I was in the boat to watch over his father, hadreturned to the cabin, into which the water had alreadypenetrated, and had made Bastien and Mr. de Syon, whowere imprudently endeavouring to save their effects, leaveit. Then, only yielding ground as the water forced him,he had indefatigably occupied himself with the care ofthose around him. At one moment, the water reached tothe middle of his body. But his coolness and presenceof mind reassured some persons, who, without him, wouldperhaps have been dismayed and exposed to the greatestdanger. Finally, we were told, he would not leave thevessel, until he was satisfied, that all who remained onboard belonged to her and could dispense with his assistance.“Mr. George Lafayette must often have beenshipwrecked,” said the captain, “for he has behaved tonightas if he was accustomed to such adventures.”

From other accounts, it appears that almost immediatelyafter the departure of the general, the water entered ourcabin with a violence which would not have permitted usto leave it, if we had remained there a few minuteslonger.

When we were well assured that no person had perished,we lighted several large fires as well for the purpose ofdrying ourselves, as to discover our situation. The generalslept for some moments on a mattrass which had beenfound floating, and was nearly dry on one side. The restwaited impatiently for day, and occupied ourselves incutting wood to keep up the fires. A tolerably heavy rainadded to our troubles, but fortunately it was not of longcontinuance.

At day break, they recommenced their trips to the vessel,to endeavour to save some of the baggage and to procurefood. The captain, Governor Carrol of Tennessee,and a young Virginian, Mr. Crawford, directed these researches164with great activity. It was a singular and touchingevent, to see a governor of a state, that is to say, a firstmagistrate of a republic, without shoes, stockings or hat,doing the duty of a boatman as if it had been his real occupation,and that much more for the benefit of others thanfor himself, for he had very little on board to lose by theshipwreck. Those different searches obtained us a trunkbelonging to the general, in which were his most valuablepapers, and a small part of the passengers’ baggage. Theyalso brought a leg of smoked venison, some biscuits, a caseof claret and a keg of Madeira. With these provisions,about fifty men, for such was our number, repaired theirstrength, exhausted by a night of labour and anxiety.

The day, on its return, shone on an interesting picture.The shore was covered with wrecks of all kinds, in themidst of which each eagerly searched for their own property;some mournfully recounted the extent of their losses,others could not avoid laughing at the nakedness orcostume in which they found themselves; this gaietysoon became prevalent, and pleasantries circulatedaround the fires of our bivouac, and at last smoothedthe visages of the most sorrowful, and almost transformedour shipwreck into a party of pleasure.

At nine o’clock we induced the general to cross theriver, and go to a house we perceived on the other bank,to shelter himself from the storm which threatened us.Mr. Thibeaudot and Bastien accompanied him. He hadscarcely left us, when one of the party, who was on thelook out on the shore, pointed out to us a steam-boat descendingthe river, and immediately afterwards another.This double news filled us with joy and hope. Soon thesetwo vessels arrived opposite to us and stopped. One ofthem, a vessel of large size and remarkable beauty, wasthe Paragon; she came from Louisville and was going toNew Orleans, with a heavy cargo of whiskey and tobacco.By a very lucky circ*mstance for us, one of our companionsin misfortune, Mr. Neilson, was one of the owners ofthis vessel, and hastened to put it at the disposal of theTennessee committee to transport General Lafayette,generously taking on himself all the chances of anothermisfortune and the loss of insurance. Immediately ourwhole party, abandoning our bivouac, repaired on board165of the Paragon. Before leaving the captain of the Artisan,who remained with his vessel to endeavour to save something,we offered him our services, which he peremptorilyrefused, assuring us that he had hands enough for this work.But the poor man was very much depressed, not from theloss of the vessel, nor that of 1200 dollars he had on board,or even from any fear of not finding employment; hisgrief arose from having shipwrecked the guest of the nation.“Never,” said he, “will my fellow citizens pardonme for the perils to which Lafayette was exposed lastnight.” To endeavour to calm him, we drew up andall signed a declaration, in which we attested that the lossof the Artisan could not be attributed either to the unskilfulnessor imprudence of Captain Hall, whose courage anddisinterestedness had been experienced by us all duringthe accident. This declaration, which was sincere on thepart of all the signers, appeared to give him great pleasure,but did not entirely console him. As soon as theParagon got under way, I went with Mr. George Lafayettein search of his father. After half an hour’s rowing, we re-joinedour new vessel, which in two days, and withoutaccident, conducted us to Louisville, where we remainedtwenty-four hours. It was about 125 miles from thatplace, near the mouth of Deer Creek, that we met with ourmisfortune.

The entertainments given to General Lafayette at Louisvillewere marred by the stormy weather; but the expressionof public feeling was not the less pleasing to him. Theidea of the danger he had incurred, excited in all breasts atender solicitude, which every one testified with thatsimplicity and truth of expression only appertaining tofreemen. In the midst of the joy occasioned by the arrivalof Lafayette, the citizens of Louisville did not forgetthe noble disinterestedness of Mr. Neilson, to whom theypresented the strongest proofs of gratitude. His name wascoupled with that of the general, in the toasts they gaveat the public dinner. The insurance company declaredthat the Paragon should remain insured without an additionalcharge, and the city presented him a magnificentpiece of plate, on which was engraved the thanks of theTennesseans and Kentuckians for the generous manner inwhich he had risked the greater part of his fortune that the166national guest should receive no delay nor inconveniencein his journey.

The day after our arrival, notwithstanding the badness ofthe weather, the general crossed the Ohio to accept the invitationthat was sent him by the citizens of Jeffersonvillein the state of Indiana. He remained there some hours,and returned in the evening to Louisville to attend a dinner,ball, and various spectacles that had been prepared for him.On Friday morning, the 12th of May, after having presenteda standard to a corps of volunteer cavalry that had beenexpressly formed some days previous, to escort him on hisarrival, he began his journey by land to Cincinnati, passingthrough the state of Kentucky, as he wished to visit itsprincipal towns, Frankfort, Lexington, &c. GovernorCarrol, who, after having fulfilled his mission, in placingthe guest of the nation under the care of the Kentuckycommittee, wished to return home, with his staff, yieldedto the pressing invitations which were given him by thecommittee to accompany General Lafayette yet farther.On the day of our departure, all the militia were underarms. We found, by their excellent discipline, armament anduniforms, that they strongly resembled those of Tennessee,with whom they are united in brotherly feeling, to whichthe events of the last war gave a new force.

At the end of our first day’s journey, we arrived at Shelbyville,a large and flourishing village, situated in the midstof a most fertile and diversified country; the next day, atfour o’clock in the afternoon, the general made his entranceinto Frankfort, the seat of government of Kentucky.The entertainments given on this occasion by the inhabitantsof the town, to which were joined those of theneighbouring counties, were very brilliant, and stronglyimpressed with that ardent and patriotic character whichdistinguishes all the states of the Union, but which, amongthe Kentuckians, is more manifest, and expressed withall the energy of a young people, enthusiastic in the causeof liberty.

After having traversed the principal streets of Frankfort,we arrived in the centre of the town, where we stopped infront of a triumphal arch, under which the governor waitedfor the guest of the nation; the sound of a cannon, dischargedfrom a neighbouring hill which overlooked all the neighbourhood,167arrested the acclamations of the people, whenthe governor advanced in the midst of a profoundly silentand attentive crowd, and delivered an eloquent and appropriateaddress. This discourse was loudly applaudedby the multitude, and I heard it asserted every wherearound me that it was impossible to express the sentimentsof the people of Kentucky with greater exactness.

After passing several hours in receiving visits and marksof friendship from the whole population, the general wentto a dinner that had been prepared for him in the publicsquare. The table was of a semi-circular form, and containedplaces for eight hundred persons, in order that allthe detachments of militia that had escorted GeneralLafayette from Louisville might be accommodated, aswell as a great number of officers from Tennessee andKentucky, who had particularly distinguished themselvesduring the last war, as General Adair, Colonel M‘Affee, &c.

Notwithstanding his desire to avoid transgressing any ofthe established customs of the United States, the generalwas obliged to travel on Sunday, for his timewas rigorously appropriated until his arrival at Boston,where he was obliged to be on the 17th of June. Wetherefore set out on Saturday, the 14th of May, from Frankfort,and travelling almost without stopping, till we reachedLexington, which we entered on Monday, about themiddle of the day. On the way, we visited the pretty littletown of Versailles, where we remained some hours, to attenda public dinner, given by the citizens of the town andthe surrounding country; and we slept on Sunday nightabout three miles from Lexington, where, on Mondaymorning, a large body of militia cavalry, conducted by adeputation from Lafayette county, arrived to escort thegeneral. The procession was formed on an eminence fromwhence we could discover Louisville in the distance, withthe fertile fields that surrounded it. We took up the lineof march about eight o’clock. The rain fell in torrents,and the sky covered with thick clouds, presaged a bad day;but at the moment we began to enter the town, a dischargeof artillery from a neighbouring hill announced the arrivalof the procession; and at this signal the rain ceased, as if byenchantment, the clouds dispersed, and the returning sundiscovered to us the neighbouring country, covered with168crowds of people anxiously expecting the arrival of thenational guest. This almost magic scene added still moreto the enthusiasm of the multitude, and their joyful acclamationswere mingled with the continued roar of artillerywhich surrounded us. The entertainments at Lexingtonwere extremely brilliant; but of the proofs of publicfelicity, that which most attracted the general’s attention,was the developement and rapid progress of instructionamong all classes of people. In fact, is it not an admirableand astonishing circ*mstance, to find in a country, whichnot forty years ago was covered with immense forests, inhabitedby savages, a handsome town of six thousand inhabitants,and containing two establishments for publicinstruction, which, by the number of their pupils, and thevariety and nature of the branches taught, may rival themost celebrated colleges and universities in the principaltowns of Europe? We first visited the college for youngmen, superintended by President Holly, who received thegeneral at the door of the establishment, and addressedhim in an eloquent speech, in which, after having describedwhat Lafayette had accomplished in his youth, for the liberationof North America, he expressed a regret that hisefforts had not been equally successful in the regenerationof France. Then reverting to a more consoling topic, herapidly sketched a picture of American prosperity and thehappy influence his visit would produce on the rising generation.

The general replied to the various points of PresidentHolly’s speech with his accustomed felicity of expression,and afterwards took his place, in a large hall, prepared forthe exercises of the young men; where, in the presence ofthe public, he was addressed in Latin, English and French,by three of the pupils, whose compositions, as eloquentlywritten as well delivered, merited the plaudits of theauditors. He replied to each of the young orators in amanner that proved that the three languages they had usedwere equally familiar to him, and that his heart was deeplymoved by the expression of their youthful patriotism. Hewas not less pleased with his visit to the academy of youngladies, directed by Mrs. Dunham, and instituted under thename of the Lafayette academy; one hundred and fiftypupils received him with the harmonious sound of a patriotic169song composed by Mrs. Holly, and accompanied onthe piano by Miss Hammond; several young ladies afterwardscomplimented him; some in prose, and others inverse, of their own composition. The discourse of MissM’Intosh and the beautiful ode of Miss Nephew, produceda great effect on the audience, and drew tears from eyeslittle accustomed to such emotions.

From so many and touching proofs of esteem and venerationfor his character, General Lafayette experiencedfeelings it was impossible for him adequately to express.Surrounded and caressed by these tender and innocentcreatures, he abandoned himself to those sweet emotions,to which, in spite of age, his heart has not become insensible;and he could not avoid repeating how much he felt hishappiness in having combated during his youth, for a peoplewhose descendants testified such affection for him; andthe profound knowledge, even the youngest of the childrenappeared to possess of every action of his life, penetratedhim with the liveliest gratitude. At last, he tore himselffrom a scene of emotion, too violent to be supported forany length of time, assuring the directress of the academy,that he was proud of the honour of seeing his name attachedto an establishment so beneficial in its aim, and happyin its results.

In the midst of entertainments of all kinds, the descriptionof which would be impossible, General Lafayette didnot forget what he owed to the memory and former friendshipof his old companions; having ascertained that thewidow of General Scott lived at Lexington, he went to herhouse to pay his respects. This visit was highly gratifying,not only to Mrs. Scott and her family, but also to allwho had known General Scott, whose noble character andpatriotic conduct during the revolutionary war will alwaysbe cited with pride by his fellow-citizens.

General Lafayette did not overlook another friendship,which, although more recent, was not less sincere. Afterthis visit he went a mile from Lexington, to Ashland, thecharming seat of Mr. Clay; the honourable secretary ofstate was absent, but Mrs. Clay and her children performedall the honours of the house with the most amiable cordiality.This step of the general’s was very pleasing to thecitizens of Lexington, which was a proof to me, that the170popularity of Mr. Clay, which rests on his talents and services,has not been diminished among his fellow citizensby the gross and perhaps unwarrantable attacks made onhim by some party journals at the time of the presidentialelection.

After forty-eight hours of uninterrupted entertainments,we left Lexington, where we parted with Governor Carroland almost all our companions from Tennessee, Louisiana,Frankfort, &c. and only accompanied by a detachmentof volunteer cavalry from Georgetown, we turnedsuddenly to the left, and in thirty-six hours arrived at thatpoint in the Ohio, on which is situated the handsome cityof Cincinnati, in which General Lafayette was expectedwith the greatest impatience. This journey, from Louisvilleto Cincinnati, gave us the advantage of seeing theprodigies of art effected by liberty, in a country whichcivilization has scarcely snatched from savage nature.

In 1775, Kentucky was only known from the reports ofsome bold hunters, who had dared to establish themselvesamong the ferocious tribes who inhabited that country.Its name alone, formed of the Indian word Kentucke, signifyingriver of blood, always recalled to the dismayedwhites the numerous murders committed on the first amongthem who had attempted to enter it, and appeared as if itwould deter them from ever establishing themselves there;but the courage, activity, and perseverance of a Carolinian,named Boon, succeeded, after many unsuccessful attempts,in forming a settlement of sufficient size to resist the reiteratedattacks of the Indians. Soon after, the revolutionarywar, which gave liberty and independence to the Englishcolonies, having terminated, the activity of the inhabitantsof the northern states, urging them perpetually tonew enterprises, the tide of emigration flowed towardsKentucky, and in the year 1790, the population of thiscountry already amounted to near 74,000. Until this timeKentucky had always been looked upon as a part of Virginia,but then, by consent of that state, it was separated,and formed into a distinct state, which was admitted intothe Union in 1782; its population is now 560,000. TheIndians, either destroyed, or driven back to distant parts,by civilization, have left the field open to the industry ofthe whites; in the place of the ancient forests that served171them for an asylum, are now found populous cities, abundantharvests, and active and prosperous manufactures;finally, Kentucky, in spite of its ominous name, has becomea hospitable land, and is now one of the most brilliant starsin the new constellation of the west. The courage displayedby the inhabitants of Kentucky during the last waris well known, and in what manner they expressed theirpatriotic sentiments in the presence of Lafayette. Nevertheless,I will relate the following anecdote, which proveshow deeply the hatred of despotism is imparted in thebreasts of every class among these happy people.

During a pleasant day of our journey, I ascended a steephill on foot, on the summit of which I stopped near anisolated cabin, in order to wait for the carriages, whichslowly followed me, and were still far in the rear, for I hadwalked rapidly. A man, who was smoking his segar at thedoor of the house, asked me to walk in and rest myself. Iaccepted, with gratitude, this polite invitation. The difficultywith which I expressed my thanks in English markedme for a stranger, and induced a number of questions, asto the place whence I came, where I was going, andthe motives of my journey. As these questions appearedto be dictated rather from a feeling of kindness, than fromindiscreet curiosity, I hastened to answer with all possiblepoliteness. “Well!” exclaimed my host in a joyful tone,“since you have the happiness of living with Lafayette,you will not refuse to drink a glass of whiskey with me tohis health,” and segars and whiskey were immediatelypresented to me, and we began to converse on what appearedmost to interest my Kentucky entertainer, the guestof the nation. After exhausting this subject, he spoke ofmy country, and the extraordinary man who had bestowedupon it fifteen years of glory and despotism. He seemedenthusiastic on the military exploits of Napoleon, anddeeply afflicted at his unhappy end. “Why,” said he,“had he the folly to give himself up, in his misfortunes, tohis most cruel enemy, to the English government, whoseperfidy he had so often experienced? why did he not ratherseek an asylum on our hospitable shores? Here he wouldhave found admirers, and what is better, sincere friends, inthe midst of whom, freed from all inquietude, he might havepeacefully enjoyed the recollection of his great actions.”172“I suspect,” answered I, “that you know little of Napoleon’scharacter; his soul was not formed for the mild enjoymentsof peace; he constantly required new food for theprodigious activity of his genius; and who knows, that ifseduced by new dreams of ambition, at the view of the resourcesof a new country, he would not have attempted tosubstitute, as he did with us, his own will for your wiseinstitutions?” “We should have considered such an attemptas an act of madness,” replied my host with a smileof disdain, “but if, against all probabilities, we had submittedfor a moment to his tyrannous ascendency, his successwould have been fatal to him. Look at that rifle,” addedhe, pointing to one in a corner of the room, “with that Inever miss a pheasant in our woods at a hundred yards; atyrant is larger than a pheasant, and there is not a Kentuckianwho is not as patriotic and skilful as myself.”

CHAPTER XI.

Arrival at Cincinnati—Entertainments given by that city—Swiss ofVevay—State of Ohio—The Vinton family—Journey from Wheelingto Uniontown—Speech of Mr. Gallatin—New Geneva—Bradock’sfield—General Washington’s first feat of arms—Pittsburgh.

On the 19th of May, at 10 o’clock in the morning, wearrived on the left bank of the Ohio. The first object thatattracted my view on the side, and almost opposite to us,was the handsome city of Cincinnati, majestically coveringa large amphitheatre, at the foot of which, the river, upwardsof half a mile in width, flows peaceably. Severalboats, carrying a deputation from the city of Cincinnati, andsome officers of the staff, had been waiting since morningfor the arrival of General Lafayette. We entered, with ourfellow travellers from Frankfort, into the handsomest ofthese boats, and rapidly crossed the river. We landed undera salute of thirteen guns, and cries of “Welcome, Lafayette,”repeated by thousands of voices in honour of theguest of America. In presence of the people assembled on173the banks of the river, and of several regiments of militiaformed in line, Governor Morrow received him in the nameof the state, and having placed him by his side in a calash,conducted him to the hotel in the midst of enthusiastic testimonieswhich it would be impossible to describe.

It was General Harrison, whose name is so gloriouslyassociated with the principal events of the last war, whor*ceived General Lafayette at his quarters, and addressedhim in the name of the state of Ohio. In a discourse,filled with sentiments of tenderness and gratitudetowards Lafayette, General Harrison drew a picture ofthe prodigious increase and prosperity, of which the stateof Ohio and city of Cincinnati offered a most admirableexample.

When the address was concluded, the crowd, which filledthe apartments, pressed with ardour around General Lafayette,each anxious to be personally introduced to him.Many revolutionary soldiers were present, who were not theleast zealous in claiming the right to shake hands with theirancient comrade. There was also a citizen of Cincinnati,whose name and aspect excited the most tender emotionsin the general’s heart. This was Mr. Morgan Neville, sonof Major Neville, his former aide-de-camp and friend, andmaternal grandson of the celebrated Morgan, who, by histalents and bravery, at the head of his corps of partizans,during the war of independence, gained great reputation.After some moments devoted to official introductions, andreciprocal felicitations, the general returned his thanks toGeneral Harrison, and we proceeded with a numeroustrain of free masons to the masonic hall, where many lodgeshad met to receive the nation’s guest, and offer fraternalcongratulations upon his arrival in the state of Ohio.

A public dinner and display of fire-works from the highestpart of the town, terminated the day, which was onlythe prelude to entertainments on the morrow, more splendidthan had ever before been witnessed in Ohio.

The first honours which the general received at sunrise,were from the boys and girls belonging to the publicschools. Assembled to the number of six hundred, underthe superintendance of their teachers, these children wereranged in the principal street, where they made the airecho with Welcome, Lafayette. When the general appeared174before them, their young hands scattered flowers under hisfeet, and Dr. Ruter advancing, delivered him an addressin their name, the sentiments of which sensibly affected thegeneral, who wished to express his acknowledgements tothe doctor, but, at the moment, was surrounded by thechildren, who in a most lively manner stretched out theirlittle hands to him, and filled the air with their cries of joy.He received their caresses and embraces with the tendernessof a parent who returns to his family after a longabsence, and then replied to Dr. Ruter’s address.

Whilst this ceremony was going on, the militia werecalled to arms, and at eleven o’clock appeared, formed inline of battle, upon the public square. In front appearedthe fine companies commanded by Captains Harrison, Emerson,and Avery. The general passed them in review.Immediately afterwards came the mechanics, forming along procession, in the midst of which floated the flagsrepresenting their various trades. The barge in which Lafayettehad the preceding evening crossed the Ohio, followed,mounted upon four wheels, with its oars trimmedand flag floating in the air. A detachment of revolutionarysoldiers marched around her. We were desired to placeourselves in the middle of this procession, with which wemade various turns through the town on our way to a largesquare near the court-house. There the general mountedan elegant platform, decorated with verdure. The peoplepressed around him, and the harmony of a fine band ofmusic having gained the attention of the multitude, Mr.Lee sung, to the air of the Marseillaise, a martial ode, ofwhich the last words of each stanza were enthusiasticallyrepeated by the spectators. A discourse upon the solemnityof the day, succeeded these patriotic songs. The oratorwho was to pronounce it arose, advanced towards the expectingmultitude, before whom he remained some momentssilent, his countenance depressed, his hand placed uponhis breast, as if overcome by the greatness of the subjecthe was to treat. At length his sonorous voice, althoughslightly tremulous, was heard, and the whole assembly soonbecame fascinated by his eloquence. The benefits and advantagesof freedom, the generous efforts made for its establishmentin the two hemispheres by Lafayette, the pictureof the present and future prosperity of the United States,175furnished the topics of Mr. Benham’s address. He tooksuch possession of the imagination of his auditors, thateven after he had ceased speaking, the attentive crowd remainedsome time silent as though they still heard his voice.

Popular eloquence is one of the distinctive characteristicsof the Americans of the United States. The faculty ofspeaking well in public is acquired by all the citizens fromthe universality and excellence of their education, and isdeveloped in a higher degree by the nature of their institutions,which call upon each citizen for the exercise of thatpower in the discussion of public affairs. In each town, inevery village, the number of persons capable of speakingbefore a numerous assembly, is truly surprising; and it isnot uncommon to meet among them men, who, althoughborn in obscurity, have justly acquired great reputation foreloquence. At the head of such speakers, we may mentionthe names of Messrs. Clay and Webster, whose parentswere, I think, farmers, and who, at the present day, mightappear with advantage in comparison with our most distinguishedEuropean orators.

After the address of Mr. Benham, the people dispersed,and the ceremonies were suspended until the hour for thepublic dinner, to allow the general some repose. We hadhardly returned to Mr. Febiger’s, in whose hospitablehouse we lodged, when we saw thirty or forty personsarrive, who entered the drawing room, and requested permissionto speak to Lafayette. “We are citizens of Vevay,”said an old man at their head, who spoke to me in French,and for whom all the rest seemed to possess great deference.“We were induced to hope that the friend of Americaand of liberty, would come and visit our little town, andthat we should have the pleasure of showing him our vineyards,and inducing him to taste the wines of our vintage;but his passage through Kentucky deprived us of this happiness.Nevertheless, we could not miss seeing the manwhose name was dear to us even before we left our country,and we resolved upon coming here to salute him.”

I communicated this to the general, who, being unableto come down at the moment, sent his son to request thevisiters to wait for him a short time. They received Mr.George Lafayette with great tenderness, and after havingrepeated to him nearly what they had said to me, they176informed us that they were all Swiss, for the most partfrom the canton of Vaud; that the persecutions of thelocal authorities, the desire of ameliorating their condition,and love of liberty, had determined them to leave theircountry and come to settle in the New World; that theyhad founded in the state of Indiana, on the banks of theOhio, about one hundred and fifty miles from Cincinnati, atown to which they had given the name of Vevay; and thatabout one hundred and fifty-six families lived there, principallyby the produce of their vines, the culture of whichthey had succeeded in introducing into this portion of theUnited States. Whilst we were listening to these details,the general arrived, and immediately the Swiss of Vevayhaving formed a semicircle to receive him, the most agedamong them, whom I had heard called Father Dufour,advanced and welcomed him by an address full of feeling.When he had finished speaking, all these inhabitants ofVevay threw themselves into the arms of the general andtenderly embraced him. They had brought with themsome wine of their vintage, which they presented us, andwe joined them in drinking to the prosperity of their newand the regeneration of their old country.

It must be confessed that the wine of Vevay is by nomeans exquisite. Nevertheless, it is quite a pleasantdrink, and, according to my taste, the best of the winesmade in the United States.[15] Although the vine grows naturallyin the forests of North America, it neverthelesssubmits to cultivation with difficulty, and, to the presenttime, it is only by the greatest care that it can be renderedproductive. The sudden changes of temperature cause itto be affected with diseases which show themselves by theappearance of numerous little black spots on the leaves;and the cold nights of autumn often prevent the fruit from177arriving at perfect maturity. The vine-dressers of Vevayhave however succeeded tolerably well in acclimatingsome of the plants of Europe, which promise an abundantproduce. On our way to the dinner, as we crossed thepublic square, we saw the gunners stationed at their parkof artillery. Their elegant and martial uniform, was thatof the French artillery. We were informed that this wasthe Vevay Artillery Company. It was, in fact, composedalmost entirely of Swiss, among whom a great number hadserved in the artillery of the French army. Their manœuvresappeared to be executed with a precision andrapidity altogether remarkable.

In the ball which succeeded the banquet, the citizens ofCincinnati displayed the good taste and elegance whichcharacterize a rich city, fruitful in resources and longpolished by civilization. But that which charmed thegeneral most, was the delicate attentions offered him on allsides. More than five hundred persons animated thispatriotic party, at which Messrs. Morrow, governor ofOhio; Desha, governor of Kentucky; Duval, governor ofFlorida; Scott, major-general of the United States army;with many other personages of distinguished rank andcharacter, were present.

At midnight, at a signal given by the Vevay artillery, wetook our leave of the citizens of Cincinnati, and embarkedin the Herald to continue our journey. The general couldhardly force himself away from the circle of his friends,nor could he cease from expressing his admiration at theprosperity of Cincinnati, and the state of Ohio, which hedenominated the eighth wonder of the world. One cannot,in fact, avoid being struck with astonishment at thesight of such prodigious creations of liberty and industry,of which this state offers so many examples. The simpleprogress of its population borders on the marvellous. In1790, there were in it only 3,000, whilst at present thereare nearly 800,000. In 1820, the town of Cincinnati containedonly 9,642 inhabitants, now it has 18,000. Ohio isboth an agricultural and manufacturing state. Its fertilesoil produces abundance of grain and a variety of fruits.In the southern part they raise a little cotton, whilst thenorthern section is celebrated for its rich pasturage.Agriculture is said to occupy 112,000 individuals, while178only about 19,000 are annually engaged in manufacturing.Last year the manufactures of wool, cotton, and thread;of leather, iron, nails, and maple sugar, amounted to nearlytwo millions of dollars. All these products, along withthose of agriculture, have a prospect of increasing considerablyevery year, and the excess over the internal consumptionalways finds an easy market, the state of Ohiobeing admirably situated as to facilities of exportation.For more than four hundred miles, the beautiful riverwhich waters its south and south-east limits is navigablefor large vessels. Its northern frontiers are for seventy-fivemiles washed by the waters of Lake Erie, and a canalrunning across the whole state joins these two points, sothat Ohio stands upon the great line of internal navigationwhich connects New York with New Orleans, passingbeyond the Alleghany mountains.

To all these natural sources of prosperity, Ohio unites anotheradvantage, which she owes to the happy constructionof her constitution; namely, the abolition of slavery andinvoluntary servitude. A slave becomes free as soon ashe touches the happy soil of Ohio; and if he does not enjoythe right of suffrage, and some other political privileges, heought not to ascribe it to the partiality of legislators, butto the melancholy state of ignorance in which his unfortunaterace still exist.

It was on the 22d of May at midnight, when we embarkedon board the Herald, which was to carry us to Wheeling,a small town in Virginia, situated on the banks of theOhio, almost on the frontiers of Pennsylvania. Althoughwe had to run more than three hundred miles, we neverthelesslanded there on the 24th before night. It is true,that, during our passage, we did not stop except to take inthe necessary supplies of wood, and visit some establishmentswhich we found on the banks of the river, such asPortsmouth, Galliopolis, Marietta, &c. which, for the mostpart, were founded by the French, but the population isnow altogether American, at least with very few exceptions.It was in one of these small towns, Galliopolis, Ibelieve, that we visited the family of Mr. Vinton, one ofthe Ohio representatives to congress, who was of the smallminority that voted against the national recompense givento Lafayette. Mr. Vinton had not yet returned from179Washington city, but his family received the general in hisbehalf, with every mark of tenderness and veneration; andMrs. Vinton did not leave him until he returned on boardthe Herald, whither she wished to accompany him on footwith all her relatives. This civility in the Vinton family,sensibly touched the heart of the general, and affordedhim a proof, that the members of the small opposition whohad voted against the proposition of the 20th of December,were not the less his sincere friends; and that, if they hadhazarded their popularity among their constituents in sucha case, it was, as I have before said, only from motives ofpublic order, and a steady resolution to oppose every extraordinarymeasure of finance.

From Wheeling we again entered the state of Pennsylvania,by Washington, Brownsville, Uniontown, &c. Inall this route, the general found the Virginia and Pennsylvaniapopulation in the same dispositions as in the precedingyear; that is to say, the people every where crowdinghis way, and conferring upon him the greatest honours.The little town of Washington, the seat of justice for thecounty of the same name, distinguished itself by the brilliancyof its festivals. At Brownsville we crossed theMonongahela in a batteau, bearing twenty-four young girlsdressed in white, who came to receive the general, andwho crowned him with flowers the moment he came withinthe limits of the town. At Uniontown, the seat of justicefor the county of Lafayette, he was received with asimplicity and cordiality calculated to recall the characterof the founders of Pennsylvania. For the purpose of addressingtheir national guest, the inhabitants of Uniontownemployed, as their organ of communication, one of hisoldest and best friends, Mr. Gallatin, known in Europefrom his diplomatic labours, and whom the Americanleaders have always reckoned among the number of theirmost able defenders.

Placed upon a stage raised in the centre of the town,Mr. Gallatin received General Lafayette, and addressedhim in the name of the surrounding people, who listenedin silence.

Mr. Gallatin is not of the number, unfortunately toogreat, of those foreigners, who, from ignorance or envy,incessantly confound the cause of legitimacy, and the180happy results of the French revolution, with the horribleand sanguinary excesses afterwards perpetrated bythose wretches, who were only the instruments of theservile partizans of privilege, and who, for the purposeof checking liberty in its noble career, thought tobring it into disrepute by the crimes committed in itsname. The justice Mr. Gallatin rendered to the courageand wisdom of the French patriots of 1789,deeply affected General Lafayette, who expressed to himhis gratitude, in a reply distinguished by its eloquence andthe elevation of its sentiments.

After twenty-four hours passed, I will not say amidst entertainments,but rather in the reception of the most tenderand affectionate testimonials of attachment from the inhabitantsof Uniontown, the general accepted the invitationof Mr. Gallatin, to repose himself a short time in the bosomof his family; and we accordingly set out with him forNew Geneva, a charming residence, situated on the highand rocky banks of the Monongahela, at some miles distancefrom Uniontown. A detachment of militia fromthe county of Lafayette, in whose ranks was a son of Mr.Gallatin, escorted us; and through the whole route we metgroups of the inhabitants, who, in their joyous acclamations,blended the name of Lafayette with that of Gallatin, towhich were associated the remembrance of innumerableservices rendered to this part of Pennsylvania. We foundat New Geneva all that could contribute to the pleasure ofa visit. To the advantages of a situation happily chosen,are added the charms of an amiable and intelligent society.But the general was very far from finding there the solitudewhich his friend had promised him. During twenty-fourhours which we remained at this delightful place, the doorsremained open, to give free access to the good people ofthe neighbourhood, who came in crowds to salute their wellbeloved guest.

On the 28th of May Mr. Gallatin reconducted us toUniontown, when we took leave of him to go to Elizabethtown,a little village situated on the banks of the Monongahela.We arrived there about twelve o’clock; when aboat, propelled by four oars, received us on board, and wedescended the river to the famous Braddock’s Field, whichwe reached some time after sunset. We were favoured181with delightful weather during our sail, which was renderedhighly interesting by the conversation of our companions,the members of the committee from Uniontown. We surveyedthe shores, which in times past echoed with thecries of victory from the adventurous sons of France, andwhich were also the witnesses of disasters which the faultsof a government as presumptuous as imbecile drew uponthem. The recital of the events of that period, chainedour attention until the moment of our landing. It was nineo’clock when we arrived at Braddock’s field, where theEnglish troops, under the command of a general of thatname, were completely defeated in the month of July, 1755,by the French and Indians united. The principal circ*mstancesof that memorable event are too familiar to all thosewhose attention has been directed to American history, forme to relate them here. I will content myself by only repeating,that, it was on that day, so fatal to British arms,that the man who has since established the glory and independenceof his country, gave the first proofs of his militarytalents, and calm intrepidity in battle. If General Braddockhad not scorned the advice of his young aide-de-camp, Washington,he would not have fought upon ground where everything was in favour of the enemy, and thus have sacrificedhis army, his fame, and his life. Although his advice wasrejected, the young Washington did not fight the less heroically;and it was owing to his courage and coolness thatthe wreck of the conquered army was saved.

Upon the field of battle, where, even at this day, theplough could not trace a furrow without turning up boneswhitened by time, and fragments of arms corroded by rust,is situated the large and elegant mansion of Mr. Wallace,by whom we, as well as our companions, were receivedwith the most touching and amiable hospitality. We therefound already assembled a numerous deputation sent by thecity of Pittsburg, to meet the general, and the next morningat daylight, detachments of volunteer cavalry arrived toserve as an escort on our route to that city.

The road which led from Braddock’s field to Pittsburg,although many miles long, was soon covered by a considerablecrowd, in the midst of which the cavalcade advancedslowly towards the city. On the road we visitedthe United States arsenal, which was about half way. The182discharge of twenty-four guns announced the entrance ofGeneral Lafayette into that establishment, when MajorChurchill, and the officers under his command, invited himto breakfast. After having examined the armoury andworkshops, in which we remarked great regularity, order,and activity, we continued our route towards Pittsburg,where the general was received, on his entrance into thecity, by the magistrates, at the head of the people, and themilitia in order of battle.

I have had to describe so many triumphal entries intogreat and rich cities, whilst narrating General Lafayette’sincomparable journey through the twenty-four states ofthe American Union, that, to avoid repetition, I am obligedto pass over in silence a great number of receptions whoseprincipal features were alike. It is for this reason I omitthe account of his reception at the national hotel at Pittsburg;although that city yielded to no other in the UnitedStates in the splendour of her festivals, and in the expressionof her sentiments of patriotic gratitude. But I have yetbefore me so long a route to survey, and so many things torelate, that I am forced to imitate Lafayette, who wasobliged to shorten the delicious moments that friendshiphad every where prepared for him on his journey, that hemight be present at the celebration at Bunker’s Hill. Iwill not, however, quit Pittsburg without paying my tributeof admiration to the eloquence of Mr. Shaler, who addressedthe general in the name of the citizens, and that of Mr.Gazzam, charged with the presentation of the children ofthe public schools. These two orators, so remarkable forelevation of thought, and elegance of expression, obtainedthe approbation of their auditors, and excited in the heartof him whom they addressed the most profound sentimentsof gratitude.

Among the persons or corporations officially presentedto General Lafayette, was a group of old men, who, bytheir enthusiasm in speaking of old times, were easily recognizedfor soldiers of 1776. One of them addressing hisold general, asked him if he still remembered the youngsoldier who first offered to carry him on a litter, when hewas wounded at the battle of Brandywine? Lafayette,after having attentively surveyed him, threw himself intohis arms, crying, “No, I have not forgotten Wilson, and it183is a great happiness to be permitted to embrace him to-day!”Wilson himself, who asked the question, was much affected,and the incident penetrated the spectators in the mosttouching manner.

General Lafayette recognized one of his old companionsin arms during the revolution, in the person of the ReverendJoseph Patterson, who came to visit him with theministers of different denominations in the city and neighbouringcounties. Joseph Patterson, although a clergyman,had shouldered his musket, and fought for the independenceof his country through two terrible campaigns ofthe revolution, and had assisted at the battle of Germantown.

After having devoted the day of his arrival at Pittsburgto public ceremonies, the general wished to employ a partof the next day in visiting some of the ingenious establishmentswhich constitute the glory and prosperity of thatmanufacturing city, which, for the variety and excellenceof its products, deserves to be compared to our Saint-Etienne,or to Manchester in England. He was struck bythe excellence and perfection of the processes employed inthe various workshops which he examined; but that whichinterested him above all was the manufacture of glass,some patterns of which were presented to him, that, fortheir clearness and transparency, might have been admiredeven by the side of the glass of Baccarat.

Pittsburg is situated on the point where the rivers Alleghanyand Monongahela mingle their waters, forming themajestic river Ohio, which, flowing towards the westernand southern states, and even to the Atlantic, afford aneasy outlet for the products of its industry. These, withthe population, increase each year with wonderful rapidity.Pittsburg now contains eight thousand inhabitants, and agreat many workmen, strangers, who are drawn hither bythe prosperity of the manufactories, coming every year tocommunicate to them secret processes and improvements,brought to light by the activity of the European manufacturers.

Route from Pittsburg to Erie—Commodore Perry’s Victory—NightScene at Fredonia—The Indian Chief at Buffalo—Falls of Niagara—Visitto Fort Niagara—Appearance of Lockport—Passage from Lockportto Rochester—Aqueduct over the Genessee River—Route byland from Rochester to Syracuse—Passage from Syracuse to Schenectady,Rome, and Utica—Grand Canal.

On leaving Pittsburg, the general was obliged to partfrom his old friends of the state of Ohio, represented byGovernor Morrow, who had accompanied him with hisstaff. Conducted by a committee of the city of Pittsburg,and escorted by a company of militia, we took the route byway of Franklin, Meadville, Waterford, and Erie, to gainthe shores of the great lake which bears this name. Allthis western portion of Pennsylvania, watered by FrenchCreek, is remarkable for the beauty and variety of itsscenery. In each of the villages through which we passed,the general was detained several hours in receiving thehonours which had been prepared for him by the citizensand public officers.

The trophies suspended over our heads, the name ofPerry and the view of lake Erie, necessarily directed thethoughts of the guests to the events of the last war; and ina short time the gallant deeds of the American navy becamethe subject of general conversation. As it was perceivedthat Lafayette took great pleasure in hearing anarration of the glory of the descendants of his former companionsin arms, all the details of that memorable daywere given him, in which, after a combat of three hours,an American squadron entirely captured a British fleet farsuperior in the number of guns.

In hearing the recital of those noble actions, Lafayettecast his eyes alternately on the numerous English flags thatfloated over his head, on the lake, the theatre of such gloriousevents, and on the seamen who surrounded him; andhis heart was filled with pride, on perceiving that the Americansof 1813 had shown themselves worthy sons of his185old fellow soldiers, the immortal heroes of the revolutionof 1776.

On leaving the table, the general took leave of the inhabitantsof Erie, and departed from this town at three o’clockin the afternoon, with the committee of Chatauque county,who had come to announce to him that a steam-boat waswaiting at Dunkirk to take him to Buffalo. Before sunset,we left the territory of Pennsylvania and entered on thatof New York. As we had fifty miles to accomplish, andas the general did not wish to detain the vessel too long,we travelled until daybreak without stopping. In thisrapid journey, we passed through many large villages, thepopulation of which, assembled in the public places aroundlarge fires, waited patiently for the arrival of the nationalguest to salute him with patriotic acclamations. Thesenocturnal scenes have left a strong impression on my mind.I shall never forget the magical effect that was produced atFredonia. On leaving Portland, yielding to the fatigue ofthe preceding days, we were sleeping in the carriage notwithstandingthe violent jolting occasioned by the trunksof the trees forming the road over which we were rapidlypassing; on a sudden the startling explosion of a piece ofartillery awoke us, and our eyes were immediately dazzledby the glare of a thousand lights, suspended to the housesand trees that surrounded us. We were solicited to alight,and we found ourselves in the middle of an avenue, formedon one side by men and boys, and on the other by younggirls and women holding their infants in their arms. Atthe sight of Lafayette, the air resounded with joyful cries,all arms were stretched out towards him, the mothers presentedtheir infants to him and begged his benediction onthem, and warlike music uniting its sound to the din of artilleryand bells gladdened all hearts. Struck by so touchinga reception, the general was unable for some time to subduehis emotions; at last, he advanced slowly through thecrowd, at every step shaking affectionately the hands thatwere stretched out to him, and replying with tenderness tothe sweet salutation of the children who accompanied hisprogress with cries of “Welcome, Lafayette.”

On a stage built in the centre of a large place, lighted bybarrels of burning rosin, an orator was waiting to addresshim in the name of the people of Fredonia, who afterwards186defiled before him in order to salute him once more. Notwithstandingthe striking character of this scene, the generalfelt himself obliged to abridge it, that he might notexpose to the cold, for a longer time, the women and younggirls, who, slightly clad, had passed all the night in theopen air, waiting for him. It was three o’clock in themorning, when, after having partaken of a collation, weleft Fredonia. The sun already began to gild the summitsof the forests we left to the right, when we arrived at Dunkirk,a small port on Lake Erie, when the boat that was toconvey us to Buffalo, was waiting for us. A committeefrom that town, and a great number of ladies, had come tomeet the general, and received him on board to the soundof music, the delightful harmony of which accorded deliciouslywith the beauty of the morning, and the romanticaspect of the bay in which we were.

At twelve o’clock we were within sight of the shores ofBuffalo; but retarded in our progress by violent and contrarywind, we were unable to enter the port for two hours.Although the town of Buffalo was almost entirely destroyedby the English, who burnt it during the last war, wewere nevertheless struck with its air of prosperity, and thebustle in its port. We landed near one of the extremitiesof that grand canal, whose other extremity we had visitedfive hundred miles from this, near Albany, and which servesas a link between Lake Erie and the Atlantic. After thefirst ceremonies of the reception of the national guest bythe magistrates and citizens of Buffalo, we went to snatcha few moments of repose at the Eagle tavern, where ourlodgings had been prepared. There, the general received agreat number of persons who desired to be particularlypresented to him; among them we had the pleasure of seeingan old Indian chief of the Senecas, who had acquireda great reputation for courage and eloquence, not onlyamong his own people, but also among the whites, whocall him Red Jacket. This extraordinary man, althoughmuch broken by time and intemperance, still preserved, toa surprising degree, the exercise of all his faculties; he immediatelyrecognised General Lafayette, and recalled tohis recollection that they had been together in 1784 atFort Schuyler, where a great council had been held, inwhich the interests of all the Indian nations, whether187friendly or otherwise, who could have any relation to theUnited States, were settled. The general replied to himthat he had not forgotten this circ*mstance, and demandedof him if he knew what had become of the young Indianwho had so eloquently opposed “the burying of the tomahawk.”“He is before you,” replied the son of the forest,with all the brevity of his expressive language. “Time hasmuch changed us,” said the general to him, “for then wewere young and active.” “Ah,” exclaimed Red Jacket,“time has been less severe on you than on me; he has leftyou a fresh countenance, and a head well covered withhair; whilst as for me—look!” and untying the handkerchiefthat covered his head, he showed us, with a melancholyair, that his head was entirely bald. The bystanderscould not help smiling at the simplicity of the Indian, whoappeared to be ignorant of the means of repairing the injuriesof time; but were cautious not to explain his error; andperhaps did right, for he might have confounded a wig witha scalp, and wished to have regarnished his head at the expenseof that of one of his neighbours. Like all the Indians,who have preserved their primitive haughtiness, Red Jacketobstinately adheres to his native language, and entertainsa great contempt for all others. Although it was easy tosee that he understood English perfectly, he neverthelessrefused to reply to the questions of General Lafayette, beforethey were translated into Seneca by his interpreter.The general, having remembered a few Indian wordswhich he had learned during his youth, pronounced thembefore him; he appeared sensible of this politeness, whichsingularly augmented the high opinion he already entertainedof Lafayette.

The Seneca tribe is one of the six nations known formerlyby the name of Iroquois, and now inhabiting the northernpart of the state of New York, under the protectionof the government of that state. These six nations arethe Tuscaroras, Onondagas, Oneidas, Cayugas, Mohawks,and Senecas. I wished much to have visited a large villageinhabited by the latter, a short distance from Buffalo,but the little time we spent at that place, was so completelyand agreeably taken up by entertainments prepared by theinhabitants for their guest, that it was impossible for me tospare the time.

188We passed the night at Buffalo, and the next day, at anearly hour, we set out in a carriage for the Falls of Niagara:on our way we breakfasted with the family of GeneralPorter, at Black Rock, a small but handsome port whichrivals that of Buffalo in bustle; and a few hours afterwards,a hollow rambling which seemed to shake the earth, and athick column of vapour which we saw at a distance risingtowards the clouds, announced to us, that we were aboutto enjoy the sight of one of the greatest wonders of nature.

At two o’clock we arrived with our fellow passengersfrom Buffalo and Black Rock at Manchester, a small villagesituated on the right bank of the Niagara, near the falls,where the general was received and complimented by alarge deputation from the county of Niagara. Full of animpatience that may readily be conceived, we abridged asmuch as possible, the duration of a public dinner, of whichwe were obliged to partake on arriving, and at half pastthree we went over to the island that divides the Niagara intotwo unequal parts, at the point where the waters form thecataracts and precipitate themselves in a gulf of 150 feet indepth. The sight of the bridge which leads to this island, calledGoat Island, admirably prepares the mind for the contemplationof the imposing scene that presents itself, and gives anigh idea of the boldness and skill of those who constructed it.Built on a bed of rocks, whose numerous points are elevatedabove the water, and by opposing the current onlyincrease its violence, its wooden pillars are agitated by acontinued vibration, which seems to announce that themoment approaches when it will give way and be precipitatedin the abyss; some minutes after having passed thebridge we found ourselves in presence of the great fall. Itis a sublime spectacle, but it must not be expected I shouldattempt to describe the sensations that I experienced atthe sight of the gigantic phenomena; they were of a naturethat cannot be expressed: I therefore willingly relinquishthe trial, in which, in my opinion, the most skilful writershave greatly failed. We remained near half an hour onthe edge of the gulf, silently contemplating the rapid fallof the water, and almost stunned by the noise of its terribleroaring. We should, in all probability, have remainedplunged in a reverie much longer, had we not been roused189by the voice of one of our companions, doubtless more familiarthan us with this fearful sport of nature, anxiousto give us some details, interesting perhaps, but which wecertainly should never have demanded.

Mr. A. Porter, the brother of General Porter, with whomwe had breakfasted at Black Rock, is the owner of GoatIsland; he had the kindness to conduct the general to allthe most picturesque points of this singular property, whichis, as it were, suspended above the abyss. From the upperextremity of the island, we saw a spectacle less terriblethan from the lower point, but which is nevertheless notwithout majesty. Our view, extending to a great distance,agreeably reposed on the beautiful river Niagara, whichrolls its waters as smooth as a mirror, over a large bed unincumberedwith obstacles, and between low and fertilebanks: it is only in approaching the superior point of theisland, that the rapidity of the course is accelerated and itprepares for the terrible fall, whose noise, during the stillnessof the night, is heard, it is said, for more than twentymiles around. Woe to the animal or man that has the imprudenceto enter this irresistible current, no human powercan save him from the insatiable avidity of the gulf. It isonly a few years since a young Indian furnished a lamentableexample. He was sleeping in the bottom of his canoewhich he had fastened to the shore near the small town ofChippewa, when a young girl who had replied to his love,but whom he had deserted for another, passed and saw him.At the sight of him the furies of jealousy kindled in herbosom the desire for revenge. She approached, unfastenedthe canoe, and gently pushed it from the shore, the currentsoon acted on it, and carried it down the stream withgreat rapidity. The noise of the waves soon woke theyoung Indian, who, on opening his eyes, saw the imminentdanger to which he was exposed; his first movement, inspiredby a desire of preservation, was to seize his paddleto strive against the current; but he soon perceived the inutilityof his efforts, which were derided by his wicked mistressby cries of cruel joy: then having nothing to opposeto his fate but a courageous resignation, he enveloped himselfin his blanket, seated himself in the middle of the canoe,and coolly fixed his looks on the gates of eternity soon to190be opened to him, and in a few seconds disappeared in theprofound abyss.

The name of Chippewa, pronounced in the recital ofthe fate of the young Indian, awoke our recollection of theglorious deeds of the American troops, during the last war,on the frontiers of Canada, from which we were only separatedat this time by an arm of the Niagara. With thisrecollection were naturally mingled the names of Brown,Van Ransellaer, Ripley, Scott, Porter, Harrison, Pike,Jessup, Miller, and many others who rendered themselvesillustrious in these spots, by their talents, their courage,and their ardent love of country.

After two hours of delightful excursion, we left Goat Island,and cast a farewell look on it from the bridge whichunites it to the main land. From this it appeared to uslike a garden in the air, supported by the clouds, and surroundedby thunder. The general could not tear himselffrom this imposing scene, and I believe that when he learntthat Goat Island and its charming dependencies were forsale for 1000 dollars, he strongly regretted that the distancefrom France would not permit him to purchase it.It would be, in fact, a delicious habitation; the surface ofthe soil, of about seventy-five acres, is covered with a vigorousvegetation, whose verdure constantly kept up by thefreshness of the pure and light vapour that arises from thecataract, presents an agreeable shelter from the heat ofsummer. The current of water which surrounds it offersan incalculable power which may be applied to mills of allkinds. I do not think that Mr. Porter will wait long beforehe disposes of a property which offers so many advantages.

On leaving Manchester and the Falls of Niagara, wewent to Lewistown to sleep: this is a pretty village situateda few miles below the falls; and the next day, at fiveo’clock in the morning, we rode to Fort Niagara, whereGeneral Lafayette had been invited to breakfast by MajorThomson, the commandant of the garrison. We found themajor at the head of his officers, a short distance in advanceof the fort, waiting to receive the general, who wassaluted by twenty-four guns as soon as he entered theworks. Some ladies, wives of the officers of the garrison,assisted their husbands in doing the honours of the entertainment,191and contributed not a little by their politeness,in making the time we passed at Niagara appearvery short.

This fort is built precisely at the point where the riverenters into Lake Ontario, on which Commodore Chaunceyreaped laurels, like those gathered by Perry on LakeErie. Almost opposite, on the other bank, is fort George,occupied by the English. Hostilities were frequent betweenthese two posts in the campaigns of 1813 and 1814,but the fortifications of both have since been repaired, andit would now be difficult to trace the ravages of war.

The general shortened his visit to Fort Niagara, in orderto arrive early at Lockport, where we were to embark onthe grand canal, to descend to Albany. On a height nearLockport we met a troop of from seventy to eighty citizenson horseback, and under this escort entered the village,where the general was saluted by an extraordinary kind ofartillery. Hundreds of small blasts, charged with powderby the workmen engaged in quarrying the bed of the rockto form the canal, exploded almost at the same moment,and hurled fragments of rock into the air, which fell amidstthe acclamations of the crowd. The appearance of Lockportfilled us with astonishment and admiration. No wherehave I ever seen the activity and industry of man conqueringnature so completely as in this growing village. Inevery part may be heard the sound of the hatchet andhammer. Here, trees are felled, fashioned under the handsof the carpenter, and raised on the same spot in the formof a house; there, on a large public square, which existsas yet only in project, an immense hotel already opens itsdoors to new settlers, who have not any other habitation.Scarcely is there to be found in the whole town a sufficiencyof the necessaries of life, and yet, by the side of a school,in which the children are instructed whilst their fathers arebuilding the houses that are to shelter them, is to be seena printing press, which every morning issues a journal,teaching the labourers, in their hours of repose, how themagistrates of the people fulfil the confidence reposed inthem. In streets traced through the forest, and yet encumberedwith trunks of trees and scattered branches, luxuryalready appears in the light wagons drawn by splendidhorses; finally, in the midst of these encroachments of192civilization on savage nature, there is going on, with a rapiditythat appears miraculous, that gigantic work, that grandcanal, which, in tightening the bonds of the AmericanUnion, spreads comfort and abundance in the wildsthrough which it passes.

Our carriages stopped opposite to an arch of greenbranches, and General Lafayette was conducted to a platform,where he had the satisfaction of being welcomed byone of his old fellow soldiers, the venerable Stephen VanRensellaer, now president of the board of canal commissioners.After having been officially presented to the deputationfrom Monroe county, as well as to a great numberof citizens, we sat down to a public dinner, presided overby Colonel Asher Saxton, at the end of which the general,induced by the feelings awakened in him by the sight of somany wonders, gave the following toast: “To Lockportand the county of Niagara—they contain the greatest wondersof art and nature, prodigies only to be surpassed bythose of liberty and equal rights.”

The free masons of Lockport, not wishing to permit thegeneral to depart without rendering him the honours dueto his high masonic rank, begged him to keep in remembranceof their lodge, the rich ornaments with which hehad been adorned when he entered the temple. They afterwardsaccompanied us to the basin, where the boat waswaiting to convey us to Rochester. Before we embarked,we had great pleasure in viewing the handsome locks, cutout of the solid rock, to the depth of twenty-five feet.The moment the general stepped on board the barge, amultitude of small blasts, dug in the rock, exploded aboveour heads, and their deafening detonations added to thesolemnity of the farewells of the citizens of Lockport. Beforeleaving the basin, we received from Dr. —— a boxcontaining specimens of the different species of rocksthrough which the canal passed; we accepted this interestingcollection with gratitude. Although navigation bysteam is not applicable to a canal, whose banks are not ofstone, yet, as the horses and the tow-path were, excellent,we travelled rapidly and comfortably; for the boat (theRochester) that carried us, was much more convenient andbetter provided with the comforts of life than could havebeen supposed.

193We left Lockport at 7 o’clock in the evening, and traversedduring the night the sixty-five miles that separatethat village from Rochester, where we arrived at an earlyhour in the morning. We had not yet quitted our cabin,when suddenly the name of Lafayette, pronounced amidstviolent acclamations, induced the general to ascend ondeck; we followed him, and what was our astonishmentand admiration at the scene that presented itself! We wereapparently suspended in the air, in the centre of an immensecrowd which lined both sides of the canal; severalcataracts fell rumbling around us, the river Genessee rolledbelow our feet at a distance of fifty feet; we were somemoments without comprehending our situation, which appearedthe effect of magic: at last we found, that the partof the canal on which we were, was carried with an inconceivableboldness across the Genessee river, by means ofan aqueduct of upwards of four hundred yards in length,supported by arches of hewn stone. Our fellow passengers,witnesses of our astonishment, informed us that, in its longcourse, the canal passed several times, in a similar manner,over wide and deep rivers; that above Irondiguot, for example,it pursued an aerial route for more than a quarter ofa mile, at an elevation of 70 feet. This kind of constructionappears familiar to the Americans. The bridges are usuallyof an elegance and boldness of execution that is inconceivable.Not far from Rochester may be seen the ruins of abridge that had been thrown over the river Genessee in asingle arch of 320 feet span, and 180 feet elevation abovethe water; it gave way a few years since whilst two childrenwere crossing it. It was said to have been a masterpieceof art, but the want of size and strength in the timbersprevented its lasting long.

The general left the canal at Rochester, passed a fewhours with the inhabitants of that town, who gave him areception, which, in affection and elegance, fully equalledany that I have hitherto witnessed, and continued his journeyby land, passing through the villages of Canandaigua,Geneva, Auburn, Skeneateles, Marcellus, &c. and re-joinedthe canal at Syracuse. This journey confirmed us in theopinion, that no part of America, or, perhaps, of the wholeworld, contains so many wonders of nature as the state ofNew York. The lakes of Canandaigua, Seneca and Cayuga,194appeared delightful to us from the purity of theirwaters, the form of their basins, and the richness of theirbanks. The sight of all these beauties, and still more thekindness and urbanity of the population through which wetravelled, often made General Lafayette regret the rapiditywith which he travelled. During this journey of upwardsof one hundred and thirty miles by land, we travelled nightand day, only stopping for a few moments at each village,to enjoy the entertainments, prepared by the inhabitants inhonour of their beloved guest, who, said they, by the simplicity,the amenity and uniformity of his manners, towardsall classes of citizens, completed the conquest of allhearts, already devoted to him from his adherence to thecause of America in particular, and that of liberty in general.

From Rochester to Syracuse, we were constantly struckwith the marked beauty of the horses that formed our relays;and learned that they had been gratuitously furnishedby individuals, whose patriotic disinterestedness was fullyappreciated by the different committees charged with thecare of the general’s journey, and who returned thempublic thanks. Among these generous citizens, I heardparticularly cited, Mr. de Zeng, of Geneva, and Mr. Sherwood,proprietor of the stage-coaches at Auburn.

On arriving at Syracuse at six o’clock in the morning,by the fading light of the illuminations, and the crowd thatfilled the streets, we learned that the people of the villagehad expected the national guest all night. The splendidsupper that had been prepared for the evening before,made us an excellent breakfast, and the general passedthree hours amidst the kind congratulations of the citizens,who eagerly pressed around him. At nine o’clock he tookleave of his friends at Syracuse, and embarked on boardthe canal-boat, amid the thunder of artillery, and loudwishes for the happy termination of his voyage.

We resumed this mode of travelling with the more pleasure,as we had lately suffered much from the heat anddust on our last day’s journey by land. Always incited bya wish to fulfil the promise he had given to the citizens ofBoston, the general determined to travel day and night aslong as he was on the canal, and only to halt in the townson his route a sufficient time to return his thanks to the195inhabitants, all of whom had made preparations for hisreception. We often regretted this necessary haste, especiallyon seeing the handsome towns of Rome, Utica, Schenectady,&c. and hearing the patriotic acclamations of theirinhabitants. At Rome, which we passed through in thenight by the light of an illumination, we met with the deputationfrom Utica, at the head of which the generalhad the satisfaction of recognising one of his fellow soldiers,Colonel Lansing, who fought by his side at Yorktown.

Twenty discharges of artillery announced his arrival inUtica, and at this signal all the population gathered roundhim to hear the eloquent discourse addressed to him byJudge Williams, in the name of the people. His astonishmentwas extreme, when the orator informed him that thepart of the country he had traversed in so rapid and commodiousa manner, was that through which he had passedwith so much difficulty and danger during the war of therevolution, to save the garrison of Fort Stanwix from thetomahawks of the Indian allies of Great Britain. He couldscarcely believe in so great a change, and was unable toexpress the happiness he felt. We only spent four hoursat Utica; but that time would not suffice to detail all themarks of attachment that were heaped upon him. Obligedto divide his time between his old fellow soldiers and thechildren of the different schools; between the magistratesand the ladies; and, finally, between strangers and Indians,collected from several miles around to pay their respectsto him, he still found means to reply to the enthusiasm ofall, and every one that approached him returned satisfiedand persuaded that he was an object of particular attention.Three chiefs of Oneidas, Taniatakaya, Sangouxyonta, andDoxtator, asked for a private interview, and recalled to hisrecollection some circ*mstances of the campaigns of 1777and 1778, in which they had rendered him some services.He recognized them again, but was greatly astonished tofind, that two of them already advanced in years at thetime of which they spoke, were still living; notwithstandingtheir great age, their features still preserved anenergetic expression; they spoke with warmth of thesituation of their tribe. “The chase is no longer productive,”said they; “it does not supply our wants, and we196are obliged to provide for our subsistence by agriculture,which renders us very unhappy; but it is not owing to ourwhite brothers of the state of New York; they act generouslytowards us; they permit us to live in peace near thebones of our fathers, which they have not obliged us totransport to a strange land; and the government oftensuccours us when our harvests fail; hence we sincerelylove our white brothers, the Americans. We formerlyfought for them against the English, and we are still readyto raise the tomahawk in their favour, whenever occasionrequires it.” The general praised them for the sentimentsthey expressed; he told them he had not forgotten theirformer valuable services; and begged them always to regardthe Americans as good brothers; he then made themsome presents of money, and they returned well satisfied.A deputation from the county of Oneida, waited on thegeneral to beg him to assist in laying the first stone of amonument, which the citizens of that county were abouterecting to the memory of Baron de Steuben, whose remainshad reposed since 1795, at Steubenville, without anymark of distinction. But the time fixed for this ceremony,not according with the public engagements entered into bythe general with the citizens of Boston, he was under thenecessity of refusing this invitation. “If I could associatewith you,” replied he to the deputation, “in rendering tothe memory of my fellow soldier and friend Baron deSteuben, those honours you intend bestowing and ofwhich no one is more worthy, without my missing the celebrationat Bunker’s Hill, it would not be the fatigues of along and rapid journey that would deter me, you may befully persuaded; but a single day of delay may occasionmy breaking a sacred promise; you must be aware of this,be good enough therefore to be the bearers of my regretsto the citizens of Steubenville, and assure them that myheart will be with them at this melancholy ceremony,which I am obliged to forego attending in spite of mywishes.”

The regrets of General Lafayette were the more acuteand sincere, as he could, better perhaps than any other,appreciate the rare qualities and noble character of Baronde Steuben, who had shared with him the toils and dangersof the Virginia campaign.

197Frederic William Steuben was born in Prussia, in 1735.Destined for a career of arms, his education was entirelymilitary, and he early entered the service. His knowledge,his well tried courage, and his zeal in the performance ofhis duties, did not escape the penetration of Frederic theGreat, who promoted him rapidly, and attached him particularlyto his own person. The young Steuben did notfail to profit by the lessons of his illustrious master, and obtaineda brilliant reputation among the best generals of theage. But neither the glory he had acquired, nor the favoursof the greatest king of the time, could counterbalance hislove for liberty. As soon as he learned that the Americancolonies, shaking off the despotism of England, were readyto maintain their independence by an appeal to arms, hecrossed the ocean and offered them his services, declaringthat he was ambitious of no other honour than that of actingas a volunteer in a good cause, and that he wouldaccept neither rank nor pay before he had given proofs ofhis valour. This noble disinterestedness, and the serviceshe rendered the American army, merited him the friendshipof Washington, and the confidence of congress, whoelevated him to the rank of major-general. His candourand moderation equalled his skill and bravery. After thepeace, wishing to enjoy the fruits of that liberty to whichhe had contributed so gloriously, he retired to Oneidacounty, to lands given him by congress, and there, cultivatingin solitude his mind and his fields, he philosophicallywaited for death; which suddenly made him its prey in1795. He was then about sixty years of age. Accordingto his wish, expressed in his last will, he was wrapped inhis cloak, placed in a simple wooden coffin, and committedto the earth without a stone or an inscription to mark theplace of his sepulchre. He laid for a long time in a thickwood near his house, when his remains were menaced withprofanation by the opening of a public road through hisproperty. Colonel Walker, his former friend, hastened tocollect them, and the inhabitants of Steubenville, and ofthe county of Oneida, resolved to enclose them in a durablemonument, as an expression of their gratitude and esteemfor the German warrior.

A cannon, the signal of the departure of the guest of thenation, had already been heard twenty-four times. The198boat that was to take him to Schenectady was ready, andthe people assembled on the quays and the bridges thatcross the canal, waited in silence for his departure. Whenhe embarked, and our light vessel, drawn by superb whitehorses, had begun to glide through the water, three cheersexpressed to him the last farewell of the inhabitants ofUtica, whilst children placed on the bridges, showereddown flowers upon him as the boat passed beneath.Standing on the prow of the vessel with his head uncovered,General Lafayette replied by signs of gratitude to those testimoniesof popular esteem. His son and myself, witnessesof this touching scene, remained near him, partaking bothof the enthusiasm of the people, and the happiness of himthat was the object of it, when our attention was suddenlyattracted by the cries of a man who followed the boat, byrunning along the bank, and making signs to us to stop.His copper colour, half naked body, and grotesque ornaments,marked him for an Indian. Although his intentionto board us was manifest, our captain, Major Swartwout,did not think it advisable to stop. The Indian, therefore,exerting all his strength, hastened his pace so much, as topass us considerably, and at last waited on the last bridgenear the town. At the moment he passed beneath it, hesprung on the deck, and fell on his feet in the midstof us, admirably erect. “Where is Kayewla? I wishto see Kayewla,” cried he with agitation. The generalwas pointed out to him. His countenance expressed thegreatest satisfaction “I am the son of Wekchekaeta,”said he, stretching out his hand; “of him who loved youso well, that he followed you to your country when youreturned there after the great war; my father has oftenspoken to me of you, and I am happy to see you.” Thegeneral had already learned that Wekchekaeta had diedsome years since, and was glad to meet with his son, whoappeared to be about twenty-four years of age. He madehim sit down, and conversed several minutes with him, andrendered him happy by presenting him with several dollars,when he left us. The young Indian was as littleembarrassed to find a mode of leaving the boat as he hadbeen to enter it. We were separated from the bank ofthe canal by about ten feet; he sprung over this spacewith the lightness of a deer, and disappeared in an instant.199This singular visit greatly excited the curiosity of our fellowpassengers, and the general hastened to satisfy it byrelating the history of Wekchekaeta, whom he carried toEurope with him in 1778, and who, soon disgusted withcivilization, joyfully returned to his native wilds.

To describe our voyage from Utica to Schenectady, adistance of about eighty miles, would be to repeat whathas already been said when speaking of that in the upperpart of the canal. We arrived in the latter town nextday, 11th June, about dinner time. We remained thereonly a few hours, which the inhabitants rendered verypleasant to the general, and in the evening set out in carriagesfor Albany, which is about sixteen miles distant fromit. We lost much, we were told, in not continuing ourroute by the canal, which, during the whole of that route,runs along the river Mohawk, over which it twice passesby aqueducts of 1800 feet in length, but pressed for time,we were obliged to choose the shortest road; besides, wehad travelled, since leaving Lockport, for near three hundredmiles on the canal, and we had been able to judge ofthe beauty and utility of this great channel of communication,executed in eight years by the state of New Yorkalone, unassisted by any foreign aid. There are still somefew parts to be finished, before the navigation will be openthe whole length of the canal; but these will be accomplishedin a few months, when the boats passing from LakeErie to Albany will traverse a length of three hundred andsixty miles, and descend a height of five hundred and fiftyfeet, by means of eighty-three locks built of hewn stone,and whose basin of thirty feet long by fifteen broad, willadmit boats of upwards of one hundred tons burthen. Thetotal expenses for the construction of this canal are estimatedat ten millions of dollars. This sum appears enormousat first view, but nevertheless it is trifling, when theimmense advantages that will accrue to the state of New Yorkare taken into consideration. The tolls demandedfor the right of navigation, although very low, have alreadyproduced, during the year 1824, the sum of 350,761 dollars;and it is believed that the receipts will amount thisyear to 500,000 dollars, and that in the nine succeedingyears it will increase at the rate of 75,000 dollars perannum, so that at the end of ten years, the debt incurred200in the accomplishment of this great work will be liquidated,and also, after deducting 100,000 dollars annually forrepairs, &c., the state of New York will receive from itscanal, a nett revenue of a million of dollars, which is fourtimes more than the expenses of its government.[16]

The state of New York will then present the newspectacle of a community of more than two millions ofmen, not only supporting its government without taxes,but also having money arising from its own property.The citizens of that state will always, it is true, have topay the duties the general government thinks right to imposeon the importation of foreign products; but theindependent farmer, who produces on his farm all thenecessaries of life, may live without paying any tax eitherdirect or indirect, to the state or the general government.

I present this picture of the public prosperity of the stateof New York, for the consideration of our European politiciansand economists.

CHAPTER XIII.

Return to Boston—Reception of Lafayette by the Legislature of Massachusetts—Celebrationof the anniversary of Bunker’s Hill—Historyof the Revolution familiar to the Americans—Departure from Boston.

We arrived at Albany before sunrise, on the 12th ofJune, and some hours afterwards we had already crossedthe Hudson, and advanced rapidly towards Massachusetts,whose western border is traced parallel to that river atabout twenty-five miles from the left bank; we had still totravel one hundred and fifty miles before reaching Boston,but the excellence of the roads insured us a rapid journey,and hence General Lafayette was certain of arriving intime to fulfil his engagements. Nevertheless, he determinedto stop only for such time as was absolutely necessaryfor repose. We therefore entered Boston on the 15that a little before noon. In publishing this happy arrival,201the newspapers caused much astonishment and joy,throughout the Union. Few persons believed in the possibilityof his return for the anniversary of Bunker’s hill,and every one considered the journey he had performedas almost magical. In fact, had he not travelled, in lessthan four months, a distance of upwards of five thousandmiles, traversed seas near the equator, and lakes near thepolar circle, ascended rapid rivers to the verge of civilizationin the new world, and received the homage of sixteenrepublics! And our astonishment is increased, when it isrecollected that this extraordinary journey was performedby a man of 67 years of age! The plan of this journeyhad been, it is true, ably and skilfully planned by Mr.M’Lean, the postmaster-general, General Bernard, andMr. George Lafayette; and had been followed with a precisionand exactness, that could only have resulted fromthe unanimity of feeling which animated both the peopleand the magistrates of the different states; but, during solong a journey, amidst so many dangers, it would havebeen impossible to foresee accidents, one of which, by delayingus only a few days, would have deranged all ourcalculations, and yet our good luck was such that we neverlost a moment of the time so exactly portioned out, andarrived on the precise day fixed upon.

In returning to the city of Boston, where so many oldand firm friends expected him, General Lafayette wouldhave experienced unalloyed satisfaction, if he had notbeen obliged to deplore the loss of two sincere friends,whom death had snatched away during his short absence,the ex-governor Brooks and Governor Eustis, who departedthis life, in possession of the esteem and regret of all whoknew them, and had experienced their sage administration.This was the commencement of the accomplishment ofthe prophetic words of Lafayette’s companions in arms,who all, in shaking him by the hand, had exclaimed, “Wehave again seen our old general—we have lived longenough!”

The day after our arrival, in accordance with an invitationthat had been given him, the general went to the Capitol,where the new governor, Mr. Lincoln, the senate,house of representatives, and civil authorities of Boston, hadunited to receive and compliment him. After we had202taken our places in this assembly, the governor rose, andin the name of the state of Massachusetts, congratulatedthe guest of the nation on the happy termination of his longjourney.

As soon as the general had made his reply, the membersof the two houses left their places, and crowded roundhim to offer him an individual expression of their feelings,and sincere congratulations were showered upon him fromthe galleries, which were filled by a great number of ladiesanxious to see him once again. Among the strangers ofdistinction who were present at this scene, we recognizedwith much pleasure, Mr. Barbour, appointed secretary ofwar since Mr. Adams had entered on his functions as president;Colonel M‘Lane of the state of Delaware, ColonelDwight, Drs. Mitchill and Fisk, General Courtland andColonel Stone of New York, who had all arrived within afew days to be present at the ceremonies of the 17th ofJune.

On leaving the capitol, the general was reconducted bya numerous escort of friends to the house of Senator Lloyd,where we found our accommodations prepared the precedingevening, through the hospitable attentions of hisamiable family.

The sun of the fiftieth anniversary of the battle of Bunker’shill arose in full radiance, and thousands of voicesuniting with the joyous sounds of the bells and reports of artillerysaluted it with patriotic acclamations. At seveno’clock in the morning, passing through a crowd, agitatedby glorious recollections of the 17th of June 1775, GeneralLafayette went to the grand lodge of Massachusetts, wheredeputations from the grand lodges of Maine, New Hampshire,Rhode Island, Connecticut, Vermont, and New Jersey,had joined the officers of the chapter and knights of thetemple, to receive and compliment him.

At ten o’clock, two thousand free masons, sixteen companiesof volunteer infantry and a corps of cavalry, thedifferent corporation and the civil and military authorities,assembled at the capitol, where the procession was formedunder the command of General Lyman, whilst the grandmaster, and deputies of the masonic order, went for GeneralLafayette to Mr. Lloyd’s, where he had retired on leavingthe temple.

203At half after ten, the procession took up the line ofmarch. It was composed of about seven thousand persons.Two hundred officers and soldiers of the revolution marchedat the head; forty veterans, the honourable remains ofthe heroes of Bunker’s hill, followed in eight open carriages;they were decorated with a large riband on which wasthis inscription: June 17th, 1775. Some wore the cartouchboxes they had emptied on that remarkable day, andone who had been a drummer, still carried the instrumentwhose sound had so often rallied the American battalions,broken by the English columns; behind them marched along array of numerous subscribers to the monument,formed in ranks of six, and followed by two thousand masons,covered with rich ornaments and symbols of the order;afterwards came General Lafayette in a superb calashdrawn by six white horses. Following him were a longfile of carriages, in which were his son, his secretary, thegovernor of Massachusetts and staff, and a great numberof persons of distinction, both natives and foreigners.This column advanced to the sound of music and bells, inthe midst of two hundred thousand citizens, collected fromall the states in the Union, whilst discharges of artilleryand general acclamations saluted it at short intervals. Itarrived at Bunker’s hill at half after twelve; and in a shorttime every one was arranged in regular order on the hillon which the monument was to be elevated, as a mark ofnational gratitude to the first heroes of the revolution.

The modest pyramid formerly raised over the remainsof Warren and his companions, and which we had seen onour first visit to Bunker’s hill, had disappeared. From itsprincipal piece of timber, a cane had been formed, on thegold head of which was an inscription, alluding to its origin,and mentioning that it was presented by the masons ofCharlestown to General Lafayette, who accepted it as oneof the most precious relics of the American revolution; anda large excavation indicated the spot on which the newmonument was to be placed.

A short time after we had taken our places around thisexcavation, and silence was established throughout the innumerablecrowd, who waited in religious meditation forthe commencement of the ceremony, the grand master ofthe grand lodge of Massachusetts, accompanied by the204principal dignitaries of the order, brother Lafayette, Mr.Webster and the principal architect, proceeded to lay thefirst stone, with the forms prescribed by masonic regulations;in an iron box were placed medals, pieces of money, a plateof silver on which was engraved an account of the foundationof the monument; over this box was laid a stone onwhich the grand master poured corn, wine and oil, whilstthe Rev. Mr. Allen, the chaplain of the day, pronouncedthe benediction. The masonic order to finish the monument,was then given, and a discharge of artillery proclaimedthat the first part of the ceremony was accomplished.

The procession then marched to a vast amphitheatreconstructed on the north-east side of the hill, in the centreof which rose a platform, from which the orator of the daycould make his voice heard by the fifteen thousand auditorsplaced in the amphitheatre; all the officers and soldiers ofthe revolution, some of whom had arrived from distantplaces to assist at this solemnity, were seated in front of theplatform; the survivors of Bunker’s hill forming a smallgroup before them. At the head of these, in a chair, wasthe only surviving general of the revolution, General Lafayette;and immediately behind, two thousand ladies, inbrilliant dresses, appeared to form a guard of honour to thevenerable men, and to defend them against the tumultuousapproaches of the crowd; behind the ladies, were morethan ten thousand persons seated on the numerous benchesplaced in a semi-circular form on the side of the hill, thesummit of which was crowded by more than thirty-thousandspectators, who, although beyond the reach of the orator’svoice, maintained the most perfect silence. After the agitationthat inevitably accompanies the movement of so largea concourse had subsided, the melodious voices of a greatnumber of musicians were heard; these, placed behind thespeaker’s stand, chaunted a patriotic and religious ode, whosesweet and simple harmony prepared all minds for the deepimpressions of eloquence. To this chaunt, succeeded aprayer by Dr. Dexter. When that venerable pastor, whohad the honour of combating at Bunker’s hill, appearedbefore the assembly, with his white locks falling over hisshoulders, when he lifted upwards his hands withered bytime, and in a voice which was still strong, implored thebenediction of the Eternal on the labours of the day, all205the bystanders were penetrated with inexpressible emotions.At last, the orator of the day, Mr. Webster, presented himself;his lofty stature, his athletic form, noble expression offace, and the fire of his looks, were in perfect harmony withthe grandeur of the scene around. Already celebrated forhis eloquence, Mr. Webster was received by the assemblywith strong marks of satisfaction; the flattering murmurwith which he was saluted, rose from the base to the summitof the hill, and prevented him from commencing hisdiscourse for some moments. During his speech, the oratorwas sometimes interrupted by bursts of applause fromhis auditory, who could not restrain the expression of theirsympathetic feelings, when Mr. Webster addressed himselfto the revolutionary veterans and General Lafayette, andthey, uncovering their venerable heads, arose to receive thethanks he bestowed upon them in the name of the people.A hymn chaunted in chorus by the whole assembly succeededthe discourse, and terminated the second part of theceremony.

At a signal gun, the procession was again formed, ascendedthe hill, and seated themselves at a banquet, spread onthe summit; there, under an immense wooden building,four thousand persons were accommodated at table withoutconfusion or discomfort; the tables were disposed withso much art, that the voice of the president and of thosewho gave the toasts or delivered addresses was easily heard,not only by the guests, but likewise by a great number ofthe spectators around; the names of Warren, of the oratorof the day, and of the guest of the nation, were successivelyproclaimed during the repast. Before leaving the table,General Lafayette rose to return his thanks to the membersof the association for erecting the monument on Bunker’shill; and concluded by offering the following toast:“Bunker’s hill, and that holy resistance to oppression,which has already disenthralled the American hemisphere.The anniversary toast at the jubilee of the next half centurywill be, to Europe freed.”

This toast was enthusiastically received, and immediatelyafterwards the guests left the table in order to return totheir homes.

The brilliance and heat of a clear summer’s day wassucceeded by a delicious evening, cooled by a gentle sea206breeze; to enjoy it the better, Mr. George Lafayette proposedto me to return to Boston on foot. I accepted hisinvitation, and we mingled with the crowds that were slowlydescending the hill and discussing the ceremonies of theday; these discussions were always mingled with a mentionof the guest of the nation, and a recital of the principal actionsthat had entitled him to the gratitude of the Americanpeople. Here, as in all other assemblies of the people,that I had an opportunity of observing, during our journey,I was struck with a remarkable peculiarity; the perfectknowledge of the events of the revolution that is disseminatedthrough all classes of community, not even exceptingthe children; I have often heard boys of from eightto ten years of age, talking to each other of the events ofthe revolutionary war with astonishing precision; they relatedto each other what they had read or learnt, how, forexample, Lafayette arrived in the United States, his receivinga wound at Brandywine, what he had done atRhode Island and Monmouth; that, whilst he was commanderin chief in Virginia, he had, after a campaign of fivemonths, forced Cornwallis to take refuge in Yorktown,where the French fleet under Count de Grasse, andWashington at the head of Rochambeau’s division andthat of Lincoln, had joined him and laid siege to that town,and forced the English and their Hanoverian auxiliaries tocapitulate. I am aware that the arrival of Lafayette inthe different towns, gave rise to a recollection of thosefacts; I also had constant proofs, that the other events ofthe revolution were equally familiar to all classes of society,from the veterans, with whom they were a never failingtopic of conversation, to school children, who were proudof the deeds of their ancestors, and of the republicanliberty, they had the happiness to enjoy. Another veryremarkable trait in the American character, is, that thepeople are not only free and happy, but that they appreciatethis happiness and liberty; and what English travellershave termed vanity, is only the firm conviction of thesuperiority of the institutions and civil dignity maintainedby the Americans, as a man in perfect health returns thanksto heaven for the blessings he enjoys; this is so true, thatAmerican patriotism (we may say the same of French liberalism,but not of English patriotism) is entirely free from207a jealousy of other nations, whose liberty and prosperityare cordially hailed by the people of the United States.

Yielding to the wishes of the inhabitants of Boston,General Lafayette remained several days in their city afterthe ceremonies at Bunker’s hill, and divided his timeamidst the society of his private friends and the public,who, till the last moment, bestowed on him testimonies oftheir attachment. On the 20th he accepted a dinner givenhim by the Mechanics’ Society, where he met all the publicfunctionaries, and the most distinguished personages ofthe state, who had accepted the invitation with equalwarmth, so great is the deference paid by every one in theUnited States to the useful classes of society.

During his visit to Boston, General Lafayette receivedand accepted invitations from the states of Maine, NewHampshire, and Vermont, where his presence was impatientlylooked for by the people, and one from the city ofNew York, who ardently desired that he would celebratethe 4th of July, the anniversary of American independence,with them. To fulfil all these engagements in so short atime, appeared difficult, but still the general did not despairof accomplishing it, for he knew by experience how muchboth the magistrates and the people strove to render hisjourneys agreeable and rapid. On the 20th he went totake leave of his old friend, John Adams; and employed allthe day of the 21st to receiving farewell visits in the city;on the 22d he set out, accompanied by the committee ofarrangement and a corps of volunteer cavalry.

Rapid and hasty visit to the states of New Hampshire, Maine, and Vermont—Returnto New York—Celebration of the Anniversary ofAmerican Independence—American vessels of war—Patriotism anddisinterestedness of the Seamen of New York.

In commencing this journal, I had determined to recordeach day, all the events of this extraordinary journey, buttheir multiplicity, and above all, the rapidity of our movements,often obliged me to forego the rigorous fulfilmentof this plan; and it was in traversing the states of Maine,New Hampshire, and Vermont, more especially, that I feltthe utter impossibility of noting all the interesting occurrences,all the honourable and interesting circ*mstancesthat characterised the visit of General Lafayette to thatpart of the Union. We travelled through these states at aspeed of eleven miles per hour. We often passed throughso many villages and towns on the same day, that mymemory could not retain their names. I could not thereforefind the necessary time to record all the historic orstatistical details, which I had amply gleaned in a majorityof the other states, and shall only be able, in this chapter,to retrace some of the entertainments given by the GreenMountain boys, and their neighbours, to the guest of thenation.

I have said that General Lafayette left Boston on the22d May, early in the morning. A few hours after hisdeparture, he arrived at Pembroke on the borders of NewHampshire, where he was received by a deputation fromthat state at the head of which was Mr. Webster, brotherto the orator of Bunker’s hill, who complimented him inthe name of his fellow citizens. From Pembroke to Concord,the capital of the state, his triumphal progress wasattended by a large escort of citizens collected even fromdistant places. On arriving in that town, he was immediately209conducted to the capitol, where the house of representativesand the senate, presided over by the governor of thestate, were assembled to receive him. The address deliveredby Governor Morrill, was remarkable for the vivid expressionof the feelings of gratitude and attachment entertainedtowards him by the people of New Hampshire. He repliedto this speech with great emotion.

After this reception the general was led into anotherroom in the capitol, where General Pierce was in attendance,and who presented to him a great number of his oldfellow soldiers, who, notwithstanding age and fatigue, hadnot hesitated to leave their distant fire-sides to shakehands and recall with him for a moment, scenes long passed.They, as well as the senators and members of the house ofrepresentatives, were individually introduced to him; thepeople joyfully prepared a dinner in the public square for sixhundred guests, to which we were invited on leaving thecapitol. The general had the pleasure of finding himself seatedin the midst of two hundred officers and soldiers of therevolution, who could scarcely restrain their joy at the presenceof their old friend.

Before leaving the table, several expressed in their toaststheir feelings of philanthropic liberty. One drank “to theholy alliance between Lafayette and liberty—may it overthrowall plots against the rights of man.” Another gave“North America as she is, France as she ought to be.”The general replied to these wishes by the following toast:“The state of New Hampshire and its representatives, andthis town, the residence of the constituted authorities of thestate. May the citizens of New Hampshire always enjoycivil and religious liberty, benefits which the elevated soulsof their ancestors led them to seek in a distant land, andwhich their fathers have founded on the solid basis of thesovereignty of the people, and the rights of men.” A dischargeof artillery, and the unanimous plaudits of the crowdthat surrounded the tables, attended this toast, and we leftthe table to proceed to the capitol square, where the militiawere drawn up, waiting until the general reviewed them.

Our evening was divided between the musical society,who performed an excellent oratorio, and a party at GovernorMorrill’s, at which were crowds of ladies, wishingto take leave of the national guest, who the next day left210Concord with an escort of a corps of cavalry, and took theroad to Dover, where he arrived before evening, and wasreceived with an enthusiasm I shall not pretend to describe.

After having quitted Dover, we arrived on the frontiersof Maine, where General Lafayette was received by a deputation,with which we directed our course to Portland,the seat of government of that state. On the way we visitedKennebunk, a small town of about 2,500 inhabitants,remarkable for the commercial activity of its port. Thesound of bells and artillery announced to the general withwhat pleasure he was expected by the people, with whomhe resolved to spend some hours. When he entered thetown-house, where the authorities of the state waited forhim, he was received by Dr. Emmerson, who addressedhim in the name of his fellow citizens.

Although the general had but a short time to devote tothe citizens of Kennebunk, he yet accepted the public dinnerthey had prepared for him, and took his seat on a chairelegantly decorated with flowers by the ladies of the town:at the end of the repast each citizen expressed the feelingshe experienced at this patriotic reunion, and Dr. Emmersongave the following toast: “Our national guest, GeneralLafayette—he left Europe to give liberty to America; hereturned to teach his country the manner of achieving happiness.To-day he comes among us to enjoy the result ofhis glorious deeds.”

The general replied to this toast by the following: “Thevillage of Kennebunk, on the site of which the first treewas felled on the day in which the first gun was fired atLexington, the signal of American and universal liberty!May that glorious date always be a pledge of the republicanprosperity and increasing happiness of Kennebunk.”

On leaving the table, and before departing from the town,the general repaired to the house of one of the principalcitizens, Mr. Storer, where all the ladies were assembled tobe introduced to him. He thanked them affectionately forthe delicate attentions which they had paid him during hisstay at Kennebunk, and at 4 o’clock, P. M. he commencedhis journey to Saco, where he slept.

On the 25th we arrived at Portland, a pretty town on thesea-shore, between the rivers Saco and Penobscot. It hadbeen for a long time the seat of government of Maine, and211its population, almost entirely commercial, is about ninethousand souls. The citizens of Portland and their magistrateshad prepared a reception worthy of their love forLafayette, and it may be said not to have yielded in magnificenceto that accorded him by the largest cities of theUnion; the militia, assembled from every part of the state,presented an imposing body in front of the town. Thechildren of the different schools occupied the streetsthrough which the general was to pass, and strewed flowersupon his path. The triumphal arches under which hepassed, were remarkable for their good taste, and the delicacyof the inscriptions with which they were decorated.Upon one of them was a small model of a ship, underwhich was written, “I will purchase and equip a vessel atmy own expense!” Words which Lafayette addressed, as isknown, to the American commissioners at Paris, in 1777,when the latter acknowledged the inability of their countryto provide the means of transporting him to the UnitedStates. Upon others were the names of the battles inwhich the young companion in arms of Washington hadfought. Having slowly traversed the town amidst the acclamationsof the crowd, the general arrived at the statehouse, where Governor Parris received and addressed himon behalf of the citizens of Maine, and in the presence ofthe representatives and magistrates of the people. Thegovernor, in his address, recalled with enthusiasm the gloriousepoch which commenced the reputation of Lafayette,and offered a merited tribute of eulogy and admiration tothe soldiers of the revolution.

Replete with a vivid emotion in which all his auditorsparticipated, General Lafayette briefly replied, but withthat aptness and vigour, for which he was uniformly conspicuous.

From the senate chamber the general went to the houseof Mr. Daniel Cobb, which had been prepared for him.He was there waited upon by a great number of deputations,who offered him the greetings of the neighbouringtowns and villages. The grand officers of the masoniclodge of Portland were also there, and the president of theacademy, who, in presence of the professors and students,conferred upon him the title of LL.D. As soon as hecould disengage himself for a moment from the crowd, he212visited Mrs. Thatcher, the daughter of his illustrious companionin arms, James Knox, with whom he remained untilhe was informed that the public authorities waited to accompanyhim to the dinner prepared by the citizens.

From Portland, the general would have been well pleasedto continue his route to the extremity of the state of Maine,but time was wanting; he therefore retraced his steps towardsBurlington, passing through Windsor, Woodstock,Montpelier, &c. Although Vermont is very mountainous,which rendered the road more difficult, we travelled withextreme rapidity, advancing almost all the time more thannine miles an hour, relays of horses having been well disposedby the inhabitants, in order that the general mightnot be retarded in his progress to New York. On themorning of the 28th, we arrived at Burlington, the beautifulsituation of which, on the delightful shores of LakeChamplain, excited our admiration. Whilst we were viewing,with pleasure and astonishment, the beauties of naturespread before us, we heard the thunder of artillery, and aninstant afterwards saw advancing towards us a body ofmilitia, preceded by a crowd of citizens, who hastened infront of the national hotel. The good order of this bodyof troops, the bold and firm step of the men who composedit, answered perfectly to the reputation for bravery andpatriotism which the inhabitants of Vermont had acquiredin the revolutionary war, and in that of 1814. Every oneknows, that it was the Vermonters who, in 1777, completed,by their presence, the embarrassment of the EnglishGeneral Burgoyne, who, at sight of their intrepidbands, presented his capitulation. Some days before hissurrender, he wrote to the British minister: “The inhabitantsof the New Hampshire[17] grants, a territory uninhabitedand almost unknown during the last war, flock together bythousands, and accumulate upon my left like dense clouds”This letter had not yet been received in England whenalready the thunderbolts which these clouds enveloped hadstruck him. It was also the soldiers of Vermont, to thenumber of 800 only, who, led by General Starke, engaged,213on the same day, two English detachments, took from themseven hundred prisoners, four pieces of artillery, and alltheir camp equipage. Finally, it was these intrepid GreenMountain boys who formed the troops which preservedPlattsburg from pillage by the English, on the 11th of September,1814; and the raw crews, who, with vessels builtin eighteen days, forced an enemy superior in number, tostrike a flag which claimed the absolute empire of the sea.

The governor, who had met the general at Windsor, andwho had travelled with him from that city, introduced himto the citizens and magistrates of Burlington, who receivedhim with the most affectionate addresses. I shall not inserthere, notwithstanding their eloquence, the numerousspeeches addressed to him by the representatives of thedifferent branches of the administration and government,nor his answers, in which he congratulated the state ofVermont on their enjoying so nobly the benefits of the newAmerican social order, so superior to the least vicious institutionsof Europe, and at having replaced Europeantolerance by religious liberty; privilege by right; a shadowof representation and an unequal compromise between thearistocratic families and the people, by a true representationby the principle of the sovereignty of the nation, andits self-government. But I cannot refrain from relatingsome of the patriotic remarks of these veterans, gloriousand living monuments of the revolutionary war, whocrowded around their old chief, the companion of formerdangers, privations, and glory, and repeating with enthusiasmthe names of the battles, in which he had aidedthem in achieving the independence of their country.Formed in column in the public square, to the number ofmore than a hundred, they listened at first in silence to thediscourse addressed to the general by Mr. Griswold, presidentof the council; afterwards they advanced in theirturn, conducted by one of their comrades, David Russel,whom they had chosen to be the organ of their sentiments,and who performed the office with that eloquence of heartwhich is inspired by love of country and of liberty. Whenthe general had answered to the professions of attachmentof his old companions in arms, they all in turn approachedto shake hands with him, reminding him more particularlyof the circ*mstances under which each had known214him, or had fought by his side. One of them, SergeantDay, showed him a sword, saying, “It is nearly half a centurysince I received this from your hands, general.” AndI heard it said in the crowd, that notwithstanding his greatage, Sergeant Day had not found this sword too heavy forhis arm in 1814.

After the public dinner, which was concluded beforenight, the general visited the university, where he was invitedto lay the corner stone of a new building intended tobe added to the establishment, which an incendiary haddestroyed a year before, and which the zeal of the inhabitantsof Vermont for the diffusion of knowledge had entirelyrebuilt in a few months. In the solidity and eleganceof these buildings it was easy to see the hand of the people.The ceremony of laying the corner stone took place inpresence of the pupils of the university, their professors,the magistrates of the city, and a great concourse of citizens,who saw with joy the restoration and enlargement ofan institution destined to render more permanent the supportof their wise institutions, by instructing and enlighteningthe rising generations. Mr. Willard Preston, presidentof the university, thanked General Lafayette for the evidencehe had given of his interest in the education of theyouth of Vermont, and we proceeded to the residenceof Governor Van Ness, whose delightful dwelling andgardens arranged with exquisite taste, were still morecharmingly embellished by an assemblage of ladies andgentlemen, who, during the whole evening, contended forthe pleasure of approaching the nation’s guest, to expresstheir sentiments of affection and gratitude for the serviceshe had rendered to their country and forefathers; for, inthe state of Vermont, as in all the rest of the Union, thefemales are not strangers either to the principles of government,or to the obligations of patriotism; their education,more liberal than in any part of Europe, places themin a condition more worthy the rank of thinking beings, as itis well known that in all the great events which have agitatedthe United States at different periods, the enthusiasmof the women powerfully seconded the energy of the magistrates,and the devotion of the warriors. One of thecirc*mstances which contributed most to augment myattachment to the Americans during my stay among them,215is the profound respect that they pay to females of everyrank, and the tender care with which they protect thissex.

About midnight General Lafayette quitted the town ofBurlington, carrying with him the good wishes and benedictionsof the inhabitants, who accompanied him to theshore, where there were two steam-boats, the Phœnix andCongress, both having awnings, illuminated and ornamentedwith designs and transparencies. He went on board thePhœnix, which saluted him with thirteen guns on his embarkation,when the anchor was quickly weighed, amidstthe loud farewells of the crowd who lined the shores. TheCongress having on board a deputation from Vermont, anda large number of citizens, followed the Phœnix, and duringthe whole night we ploughed the waters, upon which CommodoreM’Donough and his intrepid sailors coveredthemselves with glory on the 11th Sept. 1814. We shouldhave been pleased, before leaving these places, to visitPlattsburg, where on the same day General M’Comb meritedthe gratitude of his country, by repulsing the veterantroops of Britain, with a handful of raw volunteers, who,at the first rumour of the invasion of their territory, hadflocked around him; but the 4th of July was approaching,and rendered it necessary for us to hasten our progress.

The following day, June 30, about noon, we arrived atWhitehall, where General Lafayette disembarked under acanopy formed of two hundred flags of all nations, to thethunder of artillery, and between two lines of girls whoscattered flowers over him as he passed. Whitehall iscelebrated in the history of the revolutionary war. GeneralBurgoyne boasted in parliament, at London, that thosewhom he called the rebels of America, were so incapableof resisting, that with five thousand regular troops he wouldmarch from Canada to Boston, where he would take uphis winter quarters. He embarked in fact with his armyon Lake Champlain, disembarked at Whitehall, and notfar from the latter place, at Saratoga, he was compelledto capitulate, and passed, it is true, the winter at Boston,but as a prisoner of war. At the conclusion of the publicdinner which the citizens of Whitehall gave to General Lafayette,he referred to this remarkable fact, by giving thefollowing toast:—“Whitehall! May this town for ever enjoy216the advantages resulting to her from the manner inwhich the English general’s prophecy was accomplished!”

We could remain but a short time with the inhabitantsof Whitehall, who having furnished good carriages, andexcellent horses, enabled us to pass rapidly over the eightymiles that separated us from Albany, where we were toembark for New York. After sunset we crossed FishCreek, and stopped some minutes at the house of Mr.Schuyler, which is built on the precise spot where GeneralBurgoyne delivered his sword to General Gates. AtWhitehall we were told of the boast of the English general,and we now found ourselves on the field of battle whichhumbled his pride; we should have been exceedinglypleased to visit this theatre of one of the most gloriousevents of the revolution; but the night was too far advanced,and we were compelled to forego this pleasure. To makeamends, as far as he could, Mr. Schuyler had the goodnessto give us a very detailed account of the battle of Saratoga.“The ground,” he told us “has not undergone any change;the entrenchments, though considerably effaced by time,are nevertheless easy to be recognised.” In fact, the oldpatriots of that period can still show their children thepath which the aid of General Gates took, when he carriedthe ultimatum to the English general, and the road bywhich the English army left their entrenchments to laydown their arms before rebels, who, almost without arms,and destitute of equipments, commenced so gloriously theacquisition of their independence. But these traces willone day disappear. Why not erect in the midst of them,a more durable monument, which shall remind futuregenerations of the courage and patriotism of this gloriousgeneration, which time will soon render extinct?

After a short time passed with the family of Mr. Schuyler,we left them, to sleep at a neighbouring town, and thenext morning we continued our journey by a road whichwinds along the Hudson, sometimes to the right, at otherson the left of the northern canal, which latter is constructedparallel to the river, and a short distance from itsright shore; in crossing Fish Creek we re-entered thestate of New York. We crossed the Hudson at Waterford;this spot is rendered remarkable by the junction of thenorthern with the western or great canal, which is just at the217confluence of the rivers Mohawk and Hudson. On the 2dof July, we visited Lansinburgh, and returned to Troy, butwithout stopping any time. A steam-boat had been preparedfor us at Albany; on board of which we went thatevening, and at daylight we arrived at New York, wherewe disembarked almost unexpectedly.

Nevertheless, there was a great bustle, and a great numberof strangers were observed in the streets; everymoment vessels and carriages were arriving, followed byothers which seemed to come from a greater distance.Detachments of militia from the neighbouring towns, inhabitantsof the surrounding country, were constantly swellingthe population of New York. Night did not interruptthese movements, the precursors of a great event. Accordinglyat midnight, a discharge of artillery announcedthe commencement of a day ever glorious in the recordsof the history of the New World, and some hours afterwardsthe sun of the Fourth of July rose radiantly to illuminethe 49th anniversary of the declaration of independenceof a republic, whose great lessons will not be lostto the human race.

In the morning the militia were under arms, the streets,the public places, and the entrances to the churches, werethronged with people, and the air resounded with thanksgiving.At eight o’clock the officers and magistrates ofNew York and Brooklyn, with a number of citizens, visitedGeneral Lafayette, and invited him to lay the corner stoneof a building for a mechanics’ library at Brooklyn. Thegeneral acceded with pleasure to the wishes of the magistrates,and proceeded to Brooklyn, where, assisted by somefree masons of Long Island, he laid the corner stone of theedifice, in presence of a great concourse of citizens, arrangedin front of whom the young mechanics loudlyexpressed their joy and gratitude; finally, he returned toNew York, followed by companies of journeymen tailors,shoemakers, bakers, stone-masons, cutlers, coopers, riggers,&c., who, preceded by their banners, accompanied him tochurch, where he attended divine worship. The sermon,the subject of which was the solemnity of the day, was followedby the reading of the declaration of independence,which was listened to with profound attention. This declaration,a monument of fearlessness and wisdom, whose218magic influence saved the colonies at a moment when,without money, munitions of war, or arms, they engagedin a formidable contest with the colossal power of GreatBritain, affected the Americans even at the present day,after half a century, as if it were the moment when itwas first proclaimed. Not only is it read every year onthe fourth of July, in public, but also in many families. Itis not uncommon to find the houses of the Americans ornamentedwith the declaration of independence, beautifullyengraved with facsimiles of the signatures of the immortalsigners attached to it, and splendidly framed. Evenchildren know it by heart; it is commonly the first objectupon which the youthful memory is exercised; it is theirpleasing task to translate it into the different languageswhich they study; and when they recite it in the midst ofa circle of their relations or friends, it is easy to perceivethat they are penetrated, as were their fathers, with theincontestible truth of the principle, that “when a longtrain of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably thesame object, evinces a design to reduce them under absolutedespotism, it is their right, it is their duty, to throw offsuch government, and to provide new guards for theirfuture security.”

I have often heard children of from ten to twelve yearsof age recite this extract in English and French, and itwas never without deep emotion that they enumerated theoppressions and vexations exercised towards the Americancolonies by the mother country. It was easy to perceivethat patriotism and liberty had taken deep roots in theiryoung hearts, when they pronounced the pledge whichterminates the concluding paragraph.

“We, therefore, the representatives of the UnitedStates of America, in general congress assembled, appealingto the Supreme Judge of the world, for the rectitudeof our intentions, do, in the name and by the authority ofthe good people of these colonies, solemnly publish anddeclare, that these united colonies are, and of right oughtto be, free and independent states; that they are absolvedfrom all allegiance to the British crown, and that all politicalconnection between them and the state of GreatBritain is, and ought to be, totally dissolved; and that, asfree and independent states, they have full power to levy219war, conclude peace, contract alliances, establish commerce,and to do all other acts and things which independentstates may of right do. And for the support of thisdeclaration, with a firm reliance on the protection of DivineProvidence, we mutually pledge to each other our lives,our fortunes, and our sacred honour.”

After leaving church, General Lafayette went to thePark, where all the militia and firemen were assembled,who manœuvred and defiled before him with great precision.One of these companies had a splendid flag, on whichwas represented an equestrian portrait of the nation’s guest.After this review he entered the city hall, where the governorpresented him to the senate; by whom he wasreceived with honours never before bestowed upon anyone. On his entrance the members arose and uncoveredthemselves; the president of the senate advanced towardshim, and felicitated him on his return, and expressedto him the gratification of the citizens of New York, at hisuniting with them in the celebration of the anniversary ofthe glorious fourth of July.

From the council chamber we passed into that of thegovernor, where the general was attended by the membersof the society of Cincinnatus, the European consuls, and agreat number of distinguished persons, whom the municipalbody had invited to a banquet, the arrangement of whichhad been given to a committee, who performed the duty inexcellent taste. Memorials of glory, of patriotism, and ofliberty, were assembled in astonishing numbers in the superbsaloon of the city hall, where the tables were arranged.The busts of Washington and Lafayette, the portraits ofBolivar and of De Witt Clinton, were arranged in themidst of trophies, above which always floated united theAmerican and French flags. The arm chair used by Washingtonwhen president, was placed in the centre, and coveredwith branches of laurel and evergreens.

The company having seated themselves at table, we observed,amidst the happy soldiers of 1776, proscribedpersons from almost every country of Europe, to whomplaces had been assigned by the republican hospitalityof the new world. Among these exiles were membersof the Spanish cortes, driven from their country bydespotism; some learned Germans flying from punishments220as singular, as atrocious and unjust;[18] French officers,[19]compelled to seek, in a foreign land, a repose which theyhave had so often sacrificed for their native country, andall, notwithstanding the miseries they had suffered, appearedconsoled, and their spirits revived by the prospect of thehappiness enjoyed by the freemen among whom they reside.

According to the American custom, after dinner a numberof appropriate toasts were drank. The general, after havingreceived the felicitations and good wishes of all the company,went to the Park theatre, where the audience salutedhim on his entrance and his departure with three cheers.

After the exertions of such a day, the general requiredrest, and the citizens, always attentive to his wishes, allowedhim, during some days, freely to enjoy the calmer andnot less pleasant attentions of his private friends. It waswith delight that he consecrated this period to the societyof his old companions in arms, among whom were ColonelPlatt, Colonel Willett, Colonel Varick, General Van Cortland,and many others, whose names, though they dwell inthe memory of the general, have escaped mine.

He did not again leave the sweets of private life exceptto cross the river to New Jersey, to pass a short time withhis friend, Col. Varick, who had invited him to dine withsome of the principal citizens of New York. The corporationof boatmen claimed the honour of conveying himacross the Hudson in a boat whose name was rendered popularby a recent occurrence, which still occupied publicattention.

The captain of the English frigate Hussar, which arrivedat New York in December, 1824, had a gig of remarkablylight construction, with which he had won several races indifferent European ports, especially in England. Proudof his success, and full of confidence in the speed of his gig,221he challenged the boatmen of New York, and proposed a racefor $1000; this was accepted, the money made up on theirside by subscription, and a beautiful new boat called theAmerican Star, chosen for the contest. The day, hour, andplace were fixed. The English captain selected four ofthe most expert oarsmen of his crew, and acted as co*ckswainhimself. The Whitehallers took four of their numberwithout much choice, and a youth of fifteen for co*ckswain.The distance to be rowed was about three miles, betweenCastle Garden and the point of Long Island. The Englishsailors, stooping violently to their thwarts, and bendingtheir oars at every stroke, launched forward with impetuosity,leaving in their wake large whirls of sparkling foam.The Whitehallers, seated perpendicularly on their thwarts,with motionless bodies, and their arms also nearly fixed,scarce skimmed the waves with their slight oars, but pressingand multiplying their pulls, were under way as soon astheir adversaries, scarce disturbing the transparent wateraround them. A few minutes decided the victory, sometimesso long uncertain. Though started at the same time,the two boats were soon separated. The Englishmen,quickly exhausted by their violent exertions, could notequal the rapid flight of their rivals, whose prompt arrivalat the goal was announced by the joyful acclamations ofthe spectators, whom curiosity had drawn from all pointsof the city and vicinity to the shores. Astonished at hisdefeat, but unable to contest its completeness, the Englishcaptain eagerly acknowledged the superiority of the Americanboat to his own, and offered to purchase her for$3,000. But the Whitehallers refused to sell her. “Wewish to keep her,” said they, “as a monument of the victorywe have had the honour of gaining over you; but tolessen the regrets caused by our refusal, we will run youanother race, for double the stake, in which you shall manour boat against us, and we will man yours.” But, howeverthe English captain was surprised, fearing a new defeat,or the loss of his money, he declined the proposal. Inthe evening, the victorious boat was drawn on a triumphalcar through the city, and carried to the theatre, where itwas crowned, along with its four oarsmen and young co*ckswain.The next day it was placed as a monument on thewharf, with the names of the crew inscribed on the thwarts,222and this legend on her gunwale: American Star, Victorious,4th December, 1824.

It was in this boat, and with the same oarsmen who hadgained the victory, that the Whitehallers wished to conveyGeneral Lafayette to Sandy Hook, on the other side of theNorth river. In this passage we could judge of their dexterityand skill; the numerous boats which carried the otherguests were compelled to follow at a distance. On his return,as soon as the general had disembarked, the boatmenin a body, under the flag of their association, and led by thevictors, presented themselves, to thank him for the serviceswhich he had formerly rendered their country, and the testimoniesof esteem accorded them. Then, after brieflyrelating the history of the boat in which he had crossed theriver, they begged him to accept, and take it with him toLa Grange, that it might continually recall to him the remembranceof his New York friends, the perfection of themechanic arts in America, and the great motto of Americanseamen: “Free trade and sailors’ rights.”[20]

The nature of the present and the delicacy with whichit was offered, did not permit the general to refuse it.

Meanwhile the period which was to separate us from thecitizens of New York arrived, and our hearts were oppressedwith sadness. On the 14th of July we left thatcity, to which we should not return previous to quittingAmerica. The magistrates and the people attended thenation’s guest. A deep melancholy was evinced in everycountenance; and although the wharves were covered withan immense multitude, a solemn silence was observedduring our embarkation, interrupted only by the last farewell.

Letter of Mr. Keratry on the anniversary of Bunker’s hill—Fair MountWater Works at Philadelphia—Germantown—Mr. Watson’s HistoricalBox—Field of the Battle of Brandywine—Invocation of the Rev.William Latta—Clergy of Lancaster—Return to Baltimore, lightedby a fire.

Whilst the citizens of the United States were exhaustingevery means to prove their grateful recollections of the ancientfriend of their fathers, of their country, and of their institutions,France was not indifferent to the honours rendered toone of her sons on a distant shore. By means of her writers,her poets and her orators, she united her voice to that ofrepublican America, to celebrate the principal circ*mstancesof this triumph, honourable alike to the two nations.It was by means of one of the public journals,[21] printed atParis and transmitted to the United States, that Mr. Keratry,inspired by the solemnity of Bunker’s hill, expressed theaspirations and sentiments of every friend of liberty inFrance:—

“Nations acquit themselves of a sacred debt in honouringthe memories of their great citizens; but even by thatthey perform also an act of personal preservation, sincenothing can better excite a generous patriotic devotionthan the certainty secured to its author, of escaping oblivion.

“There is in fact, in the acclamations of public gratitude,something inspiring and almost contagious, which snatchesman from himself, and the interests of daily life. We sacrificethis life to assure ourselves of another more brilliantand enduring. If told that these plaudits should be decreedto frigid ashes, one would feel himself revived to participatein this futurity of glory; and by a miracle of patriotism, the224general safety of a country results from all the sacrifices ofindividuals.

“Nations capable of these sacrifices, even while endeavouringto throw off a yoke of oppression, the inevitabletendency of which is to degrade our species, wherever it issubmitted to, were never without virtue. We are entirely convinced,that as God judges men individually, by their earthlyconduct, in a future state, he pronounces also collectivelyon nations here below according to their sum of merit, andthis is the providential justice of the present economy.According as he weighs them, they prosper or they perish*thus have colonies become empires—thus have empiresbeen swept away.

“Inhabitants of North America! citizens of an enfranchisedworld! behold what has permitted you to becomeembodied and constitute a nation; see what has guaranteedto you a perpetuity of ennobled existence!Your nobility is produced by your habits of laboriousexertion, and by your domestic virtues. These virtuesexist amongst you: where women are chaste, men arebrave; where religion is the free and spontaneous motionof the creature toward the Creator, and is not transformedinto a political lever of worldly interests, salutaryfaith presides over social order, and nerves the soul. Youhave had a Franklin, a Washington, a Samuel Adams, aJefferson: if needed, you will find others. The treeabounds in sap, why then shall it not produce new fruits?Your prosperity no longer excites my astonishment; it isin the nature of things both human and divine.

“You do well, however, in enhancing the renown ofthese supporters of your liberty; and in raising monumentsworthy of those who died in insuring it. The great citizen,who in 1765 was one of the founders of the nobleconspiracy in Boston, so influential on your destinies; hewho was on two memorable occasions commissioned bythat city, to console, by his eloquence, the shades of yourillustrious compatriots, massacred the 2d of March, 1770;he who in 1775 assisted you to win the brilliant auguriesof the battle of Lexington, and who fell by a mortalblow at Breed’s Hill, in the second engagement ofyour struggle for independence, Dr. Warren, merited225from yourselves and from your children, a peculiar distinction.

“It was perhaps sufficient for the glory of this gallantpatriot, whose virtue was attested by the sorrow of hismost decided enemies, and to whose courage the entrenchedearth yet bears witness, which received with hisblood his last drawn sigh: it was sufficient I say, that hiscollected remains should have found an honourable sepulturein the bosom of that city whose liberty he was sodesirous to behold accomplished. You have decreedmore than this for his heroic companions in arms. Menof North America, I congratulate you that the services ofthe brave remain vivid in your memories: for it were theextreme of rashness, to expect aught for the future of nationsthat forget the past, by which they were establishedand by which they exist. There are in you the elementsof vigour, and you well know how to cherish them. Youhave desired that the hand of one of the earliest defendersof your liberty might assist you to complete the pious duty.Already have our imaginations and our eyes followed to thetomb of Washington, this aged soldier celebrated in the annalsof two nations; nor can I believe that the sun evershone on a more noble spectacle on this earth. Let usaccompany, him yet farther, when on the 17th of the nextmonth, he united with you in founding the monument builtby the citizens of Boston to the memory of the brave ofBunker’s hill: fully worthy, indeed, to solemnize withyou this great obligation, his views no doubt were directedtoward his own country, whilst assisting you in the dischargeof your country’s debt. He shall intercede by hisprayers for us, and perhaps without envying the happysituation you owe to the civil and military talents of yourcitizens, he will humbly ask of Providence why thosehappy days seem to have been withdrawn from France,the dawn of which she once beheld. No! in his griefhe will be silent, lest the tombstone, and the sacred boneswhich it protects, should render him a reply too severefor us, inhabitants of ancient Europe, where, pretensionsto liberty are made without sacrifices, and to happinesswithout virtue!

“Happy nation! in thy calendars are found no victoriesbut those which established thy independence. Nor dost226thou desire others, unless a noble sentiment should dictateto thee to be interested in the cause of men oppressed byone of the hemispheres; for thou hast been oppressed,and has received succour.

“Permit no one of thy citizens to become great with agreatness which would be too personal to him, or whichwould disparage his compeers: for a nation should notbecome a pedestal.

“Grant no distinctions to the living which they havenot merited by their achievements; nor to the dead, suchas would retard the excellence about to arise in competitionwith the past; for the transmission of hereditary gloryis the act of an unwise people, who alienate their posterityto the advantage of strangers.

“Simple citizens of another state! I feel encouraged tosend you this address across the sea, whose waves separateus; but my spirit has wished to commune with yours,and I have believed that the counsel of a native son ofFrance who rejoices in your fortunes, would not find ahaughty and disdainful reception, even at the momentwhen one of his own countrymen is receiving the honoursof your gratitude. That man to whom is accorded theprivilege of beholding himself honoured as posterity willhonour similarly great men, is preparing for a return to hisnative shore: you know his heart went in search of thegreat and the happy of the age, but that to him the causeof the just will ever be the good cause, whether in triumphor defeat. Blow auspicious, then, ye winds. Laden withgifts as in ancient days, crowned with flowers gathered bythe hands of your beauteous virgins and of their virtuousmothers, may he speedily regain his fire-side! Soon mayhe be restored to expectant, welcome embrace! Detainno longer the noble visitant on your shores! You arerich enough in citizens. I shall not assent that they yetenrol themselves amongst us, for it is permitted to no oneto speak evil of his country; but when the weak feel theirown weaknesses and fears, the presence of the strong isthe more important.”

Governed by the feeling of his duties as a citizen, andby his affections as the head of a numerous family,General Lafayette required not the expression of theseemanations of friendship to insure his speedy return to227France: nevertheless it was not without the kindest emotionsthat they penetrated his bosom. This demonstrationof his countrymen’s continued affection contributed tomitigate the sacrifice he felt himself bound in duty to make,in rejecting the entreaties of the citizens of the UnitedStates, who universally and simultaneously begged hewould fix his residence amongst them.

The intention of the general was, to re-embark previous tothe return of the inclement season, but before quittingthe American soil, he wished to fulfil some engagementswhich he had made in different places; to pass some timeat the seat of the general government of the Union, and tomake a final visit to the ex-presidents, in their retirementin Virginia. We were now in the middle of July, and thereremained less than two months for the execution of thesedesigns, and he hastened immediately to reach Pennsylvania.He passed rapidly through New Jersey, surroundedby the customary demonstrations of the veneration of thepeople. I shall not speak of the entertainments offeredhim by the inhabitants of the towns he passed through, norof his second visit to Joseph Bonaparte, on his journey toBordentown, where we had the pleasure of meeting again,Colonel Achille Murat, who had just returned from an interviewwith his brother, recently arrived from Spain.But we shall pause an instant longer in Philadelphia, tovisit the Water Works, and attend the celebration festivalwith which the citizens particularly engaged in theseworks desired to honour the nation’s guest.

We had visited, during our first stay in Philadelphia, thefine machinery established on the Schuylkill, for the supplyingof water to a population of one hundred and twentythousand persons, and we had been struck with the simplicityof its mechanism, its admirable force, the eleganceand good taste of the building prepared for its protection;however, being then pressed with other engagements, webut slightly glanced at its general aspect, without enteringinto the examination of details, and it was to supply thisdefect of our information that we returned hither a secondtime with the committee entrusted with the superintendenceof the expenses of the establishment.

The tide in the Delaware extending far above Philadelphia,it followed that its inhabitants could not employ the228water of that stream for culinary purposes, and heretoforethey had no supply of potable water but that which wasfurnished by some cisterns, which became exhausted duringthe great dryness of the summer, or furnishing but an unwholesomebeverage, a great number of diseases ensued.The rapid growth of the population soon rendered indispensablethe supply of water of a better quality, and inlarger quantity. One pump wrought by steam power wasestablished on the border of the Schuylkill. The expenseof maintaining this pump in operation was very great, andits power insufficient, being the only resource for the supplyof a population of more than eighty thousand souls at theend of the year 1818, at which time the watering committee,composed of citizens distinguished for their skilland their zeal in the public service, began to devise meansfor substituting, in place of the old machinery, other worksat once more suited to the increasing demands of thecity, more economical in their structure and in the costof continuing them in operation. Fair Mount, on the leftbank of the Schuylkill, seemed the point most favourablefor the execution of the views of the committee. TheSchuylkill Navigation Company having permitted thedamming of the river to obtain a fall of water, on conditionthat a canal with locks should be constructed at theexpense of the city, on the right bank of the river, in orderthat the navigation should not be interrupted; and Messrs.White and Gillingham having consented to yield, for onehundred and fifty thousand dollars, their rights in the watercourses, the committee, freed from every obstacle, submittedtheir plans to the city councils, who approved them,and voted the sum of three hundred and fifty thousand dollarsfor the commencement of their execution.

The labour was commenced the 19th of April, 1819,under the direction of Ariel Cooley, engineer, and wascompleted in four years. At the sight of the canals it wasfound necessary to open, the immense piers and embankmentsthat had to be raised, the reservoirs which mustbe excavated to a great depth in the solid rocks, it is almostinconceivable that so many things could be achieved in soshort a time. Money, it is true, was not withheld, butmoney is not always sufficient, we well know amongst us,for the accomplishment of great affairs; to act well and229promptly, we must have agents of promptness and ability,and at the same time animated with honest zeal for thepublic welfare: such was Cooley, who unfortunately forfeitedhis life in consequence of his activity in the accomplishmentof his duties. Incessantly exposed either to theheat of the sun or to the freshness of the nights, he contracteda fatal disease, which did not permit him to enjoythe fruits of his labour. Philadelphia, to this day, regretsin him a good citizen, an accomplished and disinterestedartist.

As we have now seen them, the Water works at Fairmountcan abundantly supply the demands of the city, andafford to the friends of the useful arts a monument worthyof their attention. The building that encloses the machinery,is constructed of stone of a brilliant whiteness. Itis two hundred feet in length and fifty in breadth, andbuilt in the Doric order of architecture. The interior sectionis divided into twelve solid vaulted apartments, designedfor the reception of eight forcing pumps, to be put inoperation by wheels of fourteen feet in diameter, and fourteenfeet in length. Each extremity of the building is terminatedby a pavilion of the same order of architecture,the one serving for the meetings of the watering committee,the other appropriated to the superintendent of the establishment.Of the eight pumps there are yet but three inoperation, and by these alone there are carried into thereservoir of distribution, which is more than a hundredfeet above the level of the river, nearly five millions ofgallons of water in twenty-four hours. Each wheel performsthirteen revolutions per minute; they are formedwith buckets perpendicular to the circumference, andrevolve with surprising regularity. Their construction isdue to the talents of Mr. Drury Bromley, who in this circ*mstancehas forfeited no part of his reputation as an ablemechanician.

The pumps are from the establishment of Messrs. Rushand Muhlenburg; they are castings of sixteen inches diameter,and are placed horizontally after the plan of Mr. Graff.Their play is so simple and so easy, that when they are inmotion neither the smallest noise nor friction can be observed.Throughout all the parts of this admirable monumentof American industry have been executed with the230same care, and it is impossible to visit it without a strongexcitement of admiration for all the individuals who havecontributed to its design and completion. Mr. John Moore,mason, and Mr. Frederick Erdman, carpenter, have anequal share of honour with their collaborators; nor does anyone omit a just tribute of praise to the precision in thecalculations of Mr. Thomas Oaks, respecting the estimateand the application of the forces requisite to obtain, withthe least possible expense, the most advantageous results.The total sum of expenditure, made in the construction ofthis establishment, amounts to four hundred and twenty-sixthousand three hundred and thirty dollars, the interestof which at five per cent, is twenty-one thousand threehundred and sixteen dollars. The annual expense forsalaries of workmen, repairs of machinery, fuel, oil, &c.is only fifteen hundred dollars, which added to the interestmakes a total sum of only twenty-two thousand eight hundredand sixteen dollars, for distributing in the city of Philadelphia,almost five millions of gallons of water everytwenty-four hours. The original steam engine could notsupply more than one million six hundred thousand gallonsof water, in twenty-four hours, and cost annually thirty-thousandeight hundred and fifty-eight dollars: and in order toobtain, by steam power, a daily supply of five millions ofgallons, it would have required an annual expense of atleast sixty-one thousand seven hundred and sixteen dollars.Thence there has been secured, by the introduction of thenew machinery, an annual saving of thirty-eight thousandnine hundred dollars. To this great improvement mustlikewise be added many other equally important advantages,such as the healthfulness of the city, its great securityagainst the ravages of fire, the embellishment of publicplaces by abundant fountains, the opportunity afforded toevery inhabitant of supplying his residence with water, atthe moderate price of five dollars a year, and the facilityof establishing in the city various factories, &c. by the aid ofwater power.

All these details were received with a lively interest byGeneral Lafayette, who expressed his satisfaction andadmiration, saying that the water works at Fair Mountappeared to him the perfect representation of the Americangovernment, in which were combined simplicity, power and231economy. Just as we were leaving this interesting spot,Mr. Lewis, as president, and in behalf of the committee,presented the general a mode of the machinery, and a verticalsection of the building perfectly executed in mahogany.He received it thankfully, and assured Mr. Lewisthat he would have sincere pleasure in exhibiting tohis friends in Europe, this evidence of the perfection ofmechanic arts in the United States.

Although, during the whole period of our second visit toPhiladelphia, the heat was excessive, so that Fahrenheit’sthermometer was generally at the 98th degree, and rosesometimes to 104°, General Lafayette was not the lessassiduous in employing every day either in uniting withhis friends in the festivities to which he was invited, or invisiting the environs of the city, nor did his health sustainone moment’s unfavourable impression.

It was the 20th of June that we went to visit the fieldof battle at Germantown and the mansion of Mr. Chew, onthe walls of which may yet be discovered traces of thecannon and musket balls, proving the prominence of itssituation in the battle that raged around it. After havingbreakfasted with Mr. Benjamin Chew, the proprietor ofthis historic mansion, the general continued his route toChesnut Hill, in sight of Barren Hill, where on the 20th ofMay, 1778, he effected so happily and so successfully thefamous retreat which laid the foundation of his fame inmilitary tactics: thence he returned to Germantown, topass a short time with the inhabitants, who anxiously requestedhe would visit their academy, at which he was receivedby the students with enthusiasm. We found amongst themthe young Fernando Bolivar, adopted son of the Liberator.General Lafayette spoke to him with pleasure of the hopeswhich the friends of liberty and humanity repose in thecharacter of his uncle, who, until the present moment, hadadvanced with a firm pace in the career pursued by Washington;the young man seemed penetrated with gratefulemotions, and expressed himself in such a manner as toexcite a hope, that his having been sent to the UnitedStates to study her political institutions would not be withoutpermanent benefit.

As we were leaving Germantown, Mr. John F. Watson offeredfor the acceptance of the general a present of great232value, on account of the recollections it awakened. It wasa box formed of many pieces of different kinds of wood,the origin and history of which he thus recited:

“The body of the box is made of a piece of black walnut,an ancient son of the forest, that once occupied thespot where Philadelphia now stands. Cotemporary withthe trees which lent their shade to William Penn and hiscompanions, it continued till 1818, spreading its noblebranches in view of the hall in which our declaration ofindependence was ratified.

“The cover is composed of four different pieces.

“The first is of a branch of a forest tree, the last survivingof those which were removed in order to dig the firstfoundations of Philadelphia.

“The vigour that yet animates the vegetation of this ancienttree, is an evidence of the rapid growth of the city,which has risen and become great whilst the tree is stillflourishing.

“The second is a piece of oak, broken off the first bridgebuilt in 1683, over the little river Canard. This piece wasfound in 1823 at about six feet below the surface of theearth.

“The third is a piece of the famous elm under whichPenn’s first treaty with Shackamaxum was made. It fellfrom old age in 1810, but a branch from it is now growing,and in a flourishing state, in the garden of the hospital, andour fellow citizens delight to recount the story of its originwhilst protected by its shade.

“The fourth awakens recollections of yet more oldentime. It is a fragment of the first house raised by Europeanhands upon the American shores! It is a piece of mahoganyof the habitation constructed and occupied in 1496, by theimmortal Columbus. Honour to the Haytien government,which still watches with care for the preservation of thisprecious monument.

“I offer you these reliques with confidence,” continuedMr. Watson, “persuaded, as I am, that it is with interestyou receive every thing connected with the remembranceof the first movements of a nation that has received somany proofs of your friendship.”

General Lafayette was, indeed, highly flattered by Mr.Watson’s present. He received it with gratitude, and233a pledge that it should find a place amongst the most preciousmemorials of his tour. To this first present Mr.Watson added also another not less valuable; a piece ofthe American frigate “Alliance,” in which Lafayette hadtwice crossed the ocean during the revolutionary war.

On the 21st, we went to spend the day in the state ofSchuylkill. But before speaking of the honours conferredthere on the voyager, a few words of explanation of this“state,” will be requisite. “In 1731 some citizens of Philadelphiaunited themselves into an association having bothpleasure and beneficence for its design. They purchaseda large tract of land near the falls of the Schuylkill, built ahouse for the accommodation of their meetings, elected agovernor, council, secretary of state, treasurer, and judge,established a seal, and constituted themselves the ‘Colony ofthe Schuylkill.’ More than half a century passed awaywithout the slightest circ*mstance transpiring to give occasionof trouble to the colony: every day was marked by itsbenefactions, and delight and mutual confidence presided atall the periodical festivals, at which the members were assembledat a common table. But subject to the destiny ofstates, all of which have their vicissitudes, the colony ofSchuylkill was also to experience a revolution. In 1783,at the conclusion of a dinner of more than fifty covers, thecolony rose and declared independence: resolved to revisetheir constitution, and the Colony of the Schuylkill became,in the course of a few hours, the ‘republic of the State ofSchuylkill,’ and no attempt was made on the part of the mothercountry to oppose it. Since that time the new republichas gone on advancing in strength and riches; its pleasuresand its acts of benevolence followed at an equal rate. Possessednow of an enlarged estate acquired by a treaty witha farmer, she has transferred her seat of government, that is,her nets, her kitchen and cellar, three miles farther downthe stream, under the cool shades on the banks of the river.”

Here it was that General Lafayette was received by thecitizens and magistrates, who in the costume of fishermen,awaited his arrival on the frontier of their state. In a shortand eloquent address, the secretary of state recounted tohim the history of the republic, from its establishment tothe present time, and concluded by announcing to him thatthe title and all the rights of citizen had been granted234to him by a unanimous vote. As soon as the general hadexpressed his acceptance of the honour and his gratitude,he was invested with the national costume, and, his headbeing protected with the large straw hat, he entered intothe occupations of the community. Mr. George Lafayette,Mr. de Syon, and myself, were also admittedto partake of the duties of the day; people and magistrates,all with one accord, assisted without distinctionin the work. We embarked in the batteaux belongingto the republic, and obtained an abundant supplyof fish, and in four hours we were seated at the banquetprepared by our own hands. Never was a repast attendedwith greater gaiety, nor cheered by better wine, and longshall we have the pleasure of remembering the delight andgood cheer we found in the state of Schuylkill.

The week we had just spent in Philadelphia, as it werein his own family, had entirely composed the fatigue of thegeneral; and although the heat continued excessive, he undertook,on the 25th, his journey to Wilmington, where agreat number of Pennsylvanians and Virginians were inwaiting to conduct him to the field of the battle of Brandywine.This field was not rendered illustrious by a victory,as has been said, but its remembrance is not less dearto Americans, who gratefully recollect the blood spilledthere by their fathers, and by young Lafayette, in the defenceof their rights, and to secure their independence.Happy that country in which events are appreciated moreby their influence on its destinies than by the eclat of themoment! The men who took the first steps in procuringthe liberties of the United States in the battles ofBunker’s hill and on the banks of the Brandywine, are atthis day not less honoured in the eyes of the nation thanthose who sealed it last, at the battle of Yorktown.

In the beginning of September, 1777, General Howe, atthe head of eighteen thousand men of the British army,embarked on board the fleet commanded by his brother,and left New York without the possibility of the Americansascertaining precisely the object of his expedition.A few days after it was ascertained that he had enteredthe Chesapeake, and had landed at the Head ofElk, for the purpose of marching to attack Philadelphia,Washington immediately marched through this city, where235the congress were then in session, and advanced to meetthe enemy, annoying him with several attacks between thepoint of his debarkation and a small stream, the Brandywine,behind which the American army, greatly inferior innumber, and composed almost wholly of militia, had justtaken their position. Chads-Ford was in front of their encampment,where it was contemplated to give them battle,but General Howe leaving a body of troops on the oppositeside of the stream, in order to cover his manœuvre,marched forward to pass another ford on the right ofthe Americans. This movement was so much the moredifficult to reconnoitre, as the banks of the stream weredensely grown with wood, and, by a singular fatality, thetwo parallel roads leading to the two fords were called bythe same name, so that the reports received by Washingtonfrom his scouts, though apparently contradictory, werenevertheless true. This confusion of names threw theAmerican general into a most painful anxiety; he hesitatedtoo long on the course he was to pursue, and lost a mostprecious moment which might have given him the victory.Had he been able to procure definite intelligence of themovements of the enemy, he would have passed the fordbefore him, and most certainly would have defeated theBritish division which remained at Chads-Ford, commandedby Knyphauzen, and then falling suddenly on the bodyunder General Howe, surprising him by an attack inflank, would almost inevitably have succeeded in a completedefeat of the English army; but the occasion passedrapidly, and the firing of muskets on his right soon apprizedWashington of the danger of his situation. Happily he hadestablished a position behind the second ford, of three brigades,commanded by Sullivan and Sterling. These threebrigades sustained the attack with vigour, and for a shorttime arrested the British by a deadly fire: but their linebeing attacked both right and left, by superior forces, thewings gave way. The centre continued its position firmly,in defiance of the shower of broken brass that was pouredin upon them. But this centre itself at last began to yield,and was about to beat a retreat, when young Lafayette,notwithstanding his rank of brevet-major, was yet servingas a simple volunteer near the commander-in-chief, dismountedfrom his horse, and went, sword in hand, to place236himself at the head of a company of grenadiers, who, reanimatedby this noble effort, maintained themselves firmlyfor a few moments. Soon, however, Lafayette receiveda shot below the knee, and was obliged to retire withhis grenadiers; but he had already reaped the reward ofhis devotedness, for he had procured the opportunity forWashington to join the division of General Greene, andof recommencing the action in a second line. Here thefight raged on either side with obstinate perseverance,and the astonishing spectacle was exhibited of militia rallyingafter a first check, and fronting with firm step anenemy superior in numbers and in discipline. The eventof this second contest was yet doubtful, when suddenlyWashington learned that the pass of Chads-Ford wasforced, and that Knyphauzen was about to fall on his leftflank; he immediately resolved to secure a retreat toChester, where he arrived with his army the same evening.

The battle was lost, but the British had paid dear fortheir victory, and the moral force of the Americans wasaugmented even by their defeat. In this day’s engagementLafayette had sealed with his blood his alliance with theprinciples for which he had crossed the ocean, and foreversecured to himself the gratitude of a nation amongst whomgenerous and noble sentiments outlive the ravages of time.

It was once more to evince their gratitude for their longtried friend, that the revolutionary soldiers of Pennsylvaniaand Virginia had now assembled with their sons to conductLafayette to the field of the battle of Brandywine. We leftChester on the 26th of July, with a retinue, at the head ofwhich appeared the two oldest revolutionary officers of theneighbouring counties, Colonel M’Lean and Captain Anderson.Numerous bodies of militia had preceded us, andwere already gone to take their position at the ancient encampmentof the American army, where may yet be discoveredtraces of one of the redoubts. It was about noonwhen we arrived on the borders of the Brandywine, alongwhich we were to travel to the point at which, as we hadbeen informed, the army had passed. But on approachingthe stream, General Lafayette cast a glance on the surroundingcountry and said, “It cannot be here that we passedin 1777, it must be a little higher up the stream.” It was237in fact ascertained that the passage had been effected justabove the spot we occupied. This accuracy of observationand vivid recollection excited in a high degree theadmiration of the numerous witnesses.

At Chads-Ford the general learned that one of his companionsin arms, Gideon Gilpin, under whose roof he hadpassed the night before the battle, was now confined to bedby age and infirmity, and despaired of being able to joinhis fellow citizens in their testimony of respect to thegeneral: he went to visit the aged soldier, whom he foundsurrounded by his family. Gideon Gilpin, notwithstandinghis extreme weakness, recognized him on his entrance, andproved by tears of grateful and tender recollection howmuch this visit tended to the comfort and soothing of hislast moments.

On arriving at the field of battle, General Lafayette recognisedsuccessively, and pointed out to us himself, all theprincipal points on which the two armies had manœuvredand fought on the 11th of September 1777; nor did his recollectionwander a single moment. Being arrived at thespot where the first attack was made, and where he hadbeen wounded, he paused a moment; his ancient companionspressed around his carriage, and the militia passedbefore him, amid the loudest acclamations and the cry athousand times re-echoed, “long live Lafayette.” During thewhole of this scene, of profound emotion on his part, andwhich his modesty induced him frequently to attempt toabridge, he spoke to those around him of nothing but thepresence of mind evinced by Washington on the fatal dayof the 11th September, and of the courage manifested bythe officers and soldiers in supporting him. But in vainhe recalled the names of the most illustrious chiefs, andattributed to them all the glory of having saved the army:the reply he received was by pointing him to the soil onwhich he had spilled his blood, and the sight of this indestructiblemonument exalted to the highest degree thegratitude of the crowd of spectators who accompanied him.In prolonging our excursion along the route by which theBritish had conducted their first attack, we arrived at thehouse of Mr. Samuel Jones. It had been for a short timeoccupied by General Howe during the battle, and yet retainstraces of the well directed fire of the American artillery.238After the elegant collation with which we wereentertained by Mrs. Jones, we had presented to us variousimplements and remains of arms found on the field of battle;and we returned with these precious reliques to WestChester, where we concluded the day in the enjoyment offestivities prepared by the inhabitants.

In the multiplied recitals I have made of the public rejoicingsat which I assisted, during my stay in the UnitedStates, it was impossible not to be struck with the constantassociation of religious ideas and patriotic sentimentswhich so strongly characterise the citizens of this republic:but what is not less remarkable is, that their religion, free ofpractical minutiæ, seems as much an uniform sentiment astheir love of liberty resembles an uniform faith. With thema political orator never terminates a prepared address withoutan invocation, or grateful recognition of divine power;and a minister of the gospel on taking the pulpit commences,by recalling to the notice of his auditors their duties ascitizens, and their peculiar privileges in living under thewise institutions of their country. It may also be remarked,that this union of political morals and theology influencesall the actions of the Americans with a gravity and deepconviction, the charm and tendency of which are wholly inexpressible.How could any one listen to these simple andtouching invocations without being deeply affected, andwithout uniting in their humble and pious acknowledgements?We were about being seated at the hospitableboard prepared by the citizens of West Chester at the NationalHotel, when the president of the day remarked thata minister of the church was in the company, and invitedhim to ask a blessing on the assemblage, which wasdone in the most affecting manner by the Rev. WilliamLatta.

A committee of the citizens of Lancaster having beendeputed to escort General Lafayette from West Chester,he committed himself to their care on the 27th, after takingleave of a great number of the soldiers of 1776, whocould not receive the last adieu of the aged general withouttestifying their emotion with tears.

I have already, I believe, mentioned the remarkablefact, that at the south, as at the north, and from the eastto the west of the United States, we had met with men of239different manners and languages, submitting for the generalgood to the same democratic government; living inharmony, in the enjoyment of domestic happiness and ofpublic prosperity, under the shield of the same institutions.Having made this observation, we naturally concludedthat neither great wealth nor diverse habits of the peopleof this country, are obstacles to the establishment and theadministration of republican government, which is foundedon an equal appreciation of the interests and rights of all.Nothing perhaps more strongly confirmed General Lafayettein this opinion, than a view of the city and county ofLancaster, where are found men from all parts of Americaand Europe, and of almost every diversity of religiousfaith, yet all attached to the wise and excellent institutionsby which they are governed.

I shall not describe the festivities with which the citizensof Lancaster entertained the man, who, whilst they receivedhim as a guest, they most warmly claimed as theirfriend, though they were not inferior either in elegance orcordiality to those of the largest cities of the Union. Ishall not, however, pass over in silence, events which bytheir nature serve to explain the unity of sentiments andprinciples which characterise all classes of the Americanpeople. I shall, therefore, relate the proceedings of theclergy of every denomination in the city and vicinity, who,at the intelligence of the arrival of the general, spontaneouslycollected to unite their patriotic felicitations withthose of the other citizens. Their congratulations wereconveyed by the dean on their behalf, without distinctionof sect. If the address were to be given at length, it wouldgive additional weight to the opinion I have already advancedrespecting the American clergy: but it will suffice,I trust, to relate a portion of the general’s reply, in whichthis opinion is expressed with a strength and precisionwhich leave no doubt of his convictions.

“I accept,” replied he, “with sincere gratitude theproofs of kindness and regard which the clergy of this cityand vicinity have voluntarily accorded to me, and which you,sir, have expressed in so impressive a manner. In myhappy sojourn in this country, I have often had occasionto remark the veneration which the clergy of every denominationinspire, whose individual members, apostles of240the rights of man, are the immediate functionaries of a religionfounded on the principles of liberty and equality,and on the principle of elections by the people of evangelicalministers.”

On quitting Lancaster, we travelled to Port Deposit, onthe shore of the Susquehanna, where we were met by adeputation from Baltimore, with whom we embarked, destinedfor this latter city. On our way we visited Havre-de-Grace,a small town situated on the Susquehanna, at itsentrance into the Chesapeake. Here we remained severalhours, and then continued our voyage favoured byfine weather, our way being beguiled also by the pleasureswe enjoyed on board. From the deck of our vessel, webeheld expanded to our view the delightful vallies and therich hills of Maryland: the companions of our voyage,pressing around Lafayette, and designating to him thefields in which, during their struggle for liberty, he hadfought to obtain it: and at short distances on the shores,groups of the inhabitants attracted by the sounds of nationalairs which echoed from our deck, testified, by incessantacclamations, the delight occasioned by the presenceof the adopted son and benefactor of their country.

The sun had left the horizon some time ere we arrivedat the mouth of the Patapsco, and it was not till midnightthat we touched the wharf at Baltimore. Though atthat advanced and unseasonable hour, a large number ofpersons were in waiting for the appearance of our vessel,and on disembarking General Lafayette found himself surroundedby a crowd of friends. At the moment of placinghis foot on shore, an immense burst of light suddenly illuminatedthe port, and looking to the southern quarter ofthe city we saw volumes of flame rising almost to theclouds. Instantly the hollow cry of “fire, fire,” resoundedin every street. Anxious to offer the first assistance, weleft the general in care of two members of the committee,who conducted him directly to the hotel provided for him,and we ran at our utmost speed toward the scene of conflagration,but we discovered that we had been outstrippedby four engines, which on our arrival were already in fulloperation. Other engines arrived from all quarters, directedby young men, volunteers in this patriotic employment,and commenced their operations with such promptness241and activity, that, although the fire had originated in aframe building occupied as a store, the flames were verysoon subdued, and indeed wholly extinguished. We foundourselves involuntarily amidst the inactive crowd of spectators,and returned to our lodgings at two o’clock in themorning, filled with admiration of the spontaneous exertionsas well as the zeal and ability of the young firemenof Baltimore.

CHAPTER XVI.

Return to Washington—Character of the new President—Visit to theex-president, become a farmer and justice of peace—Governmentoffers Lafayette a ship of war to return in to France—Presents madeto Bolivar through Lafayette—New homage from the city of NewYork—Farewell of the President to the Nation’s Guest—Departurefrom Washington city—Embarkation in the Brandywine—Voyage—Testimoniesof attachment and regret of the crew of the Brandywineto Lafayette—Reception at Havre—Some hours at Rouen—Receptionof Lafayette at La Grange by the inhabitants of his vicinity.

After resting two days at Baltimore we set out forWashington city. General Lafayette wished to departprivately, and the citizens, always solicitous to satisfy hisdesires, contented themselves with calling in the eveningto take leave and express their regrets. This circ*mstanceemployed several hours, and left in our hearts impressionsof profound melancholy. We commenced our journeyon the 1st of August, accompanied by two members ofthe Baltimore committee. A few miles from Washingtonwe were met by an elegant carriage, which drew up nearus, from which a young gentleman alighted and inquiredfor General Lafayette. This was the eldest son of thenew president Mr. Adams, who was sent by his father tothe nation’s guest, to inform him that he had solicited andobtained from the citizens of the metropolis, permissionto offer him the use of the president’s house. Thegeneral accepted the invitation for himself and travellingcompanions, entered Mr. Adams’s carriage, and we continued242on our route. Our two members of the Baltimore committeehad not anticipated such an occurrence, whichthrew them into considerable embarrassment. They hadbeen zealous “Jackson men,” and had declared themselvesstrongly against Mr. Adams, during the election; of thisMr. Adams was not ignorant, and on this occasion it appeareddifficult to them to present themselves under theauspices of General Lafayette, without exposing themselvesto the chance of being thought willing to make the amendehonorable. They determined to separate from our party,on entering the city, and took lodgings in a hotel.

During the canvass of the presidential election, I hadfrequently heard the adversaries of Mr. Adams accuse himof aristocratic habits, contracted, as they said, in the foreigncourts at which he had passed many years. This accusationappeared to me much opposed to what I had seen andhave related of his conduct in the steam-boat going fromFrenchtown to Baltimore; but, at length, in consequenceof hearing the charge frequently repeated, I began to fear,that, with the exercise of power, he might fall into whatwe call in Europe the manners of a prince; my surprisewas therefore the more agreeable, to find, on reachingWashington, that the president was not changed. It istrue, we found Mr. Adams in the place of Mr. Monroe;but the public man was still the same. The plainness ofthe domestics, and facility of access to the house, appearednot to have undergone the least alteration, and in Mr.Adams’s reception of us we experienced all the cordialityof his predecessor. He soon ascertained why our companionshad not remained with us, and hastened to send theman invitation to dinner, which they accepted without embarrassmentor hesitation, as men who understood thepoliteness intended them, but who did not consider themselvesas being in any way pledged by accepting it.

The lodgings prepared for us in his own house by thepresident were plain, but commodious and in good taste.Anxious to enable General Lafayette to enjoy the reposehe thought him to need after so many and such long voyages,and after numerous and profound emotions, he secludedhimself with us in entire privacy. Aided by Mrs. Adams,her two sons, and two nieces, he made us taste, if I mayso express myself, the sweets of domestic life. During243the early portion of our stay, there rarely set down to tableor around the hearth more than two or three persons atonce, and usually these were some public officers who,after being occupied all day with the president in business,were detained by him to dinner and the familiar conversationof the evening. It was during this period which glidedaway so swiftly, that I could appreciate the character ofMr. Adams, whom I had previously known only by theeulogies of his friends or the attacks of opponents. I discoveredthat the first had but done him justice, and thelast been misled by party spirit. It is difficult to find amore upright and better cultivated intellect than is possessedby the successor of Mr. Monroe. The beautifulreliefs of the capitol, to which he is not a stranger; histreatise on weights and measures, and the numerous diplomaticmissions he has discharged with distinction, bearwitness to his good taste in the arts, the correctness of hisscientific judgment, and his skill in politics. As to the accusationof aristocracy, which some have preferred againsthim, it is sufficiently refuted by his manners, which remainunaltered by his elevation to the chief magistracy of therepublic.

Notwithstanding that General Lafayette was daily preparingto return to Europe, before quitting the Americansoil, he wished once more to see some of his old Virginiafriends, and especially desired again to embrace and thankhim, who, as head of the government, had first welcomedhim to its capital, and who, at present returned to privatelife, continued to give his fellow citizens an example of allthe virtues, in cultivating his modest patrimony. The generalmentioned the subject to Mr. Adams, who offered toaccompany him on this visit, saying, “that he would gladlytake this occasion to go and present to his predecessor histribute of veneration and attachment.” The 6th of Augustwas the day fixed upon for this visit, and we set out forOak Hill, the seat of Mr. Monroe, which is thirty-seven milesfrom Washington, unaccompanied by any escort. Mr.Adams took the general and Mr. George Lafayette, withone of his friends, in his carriage; I rode in a tilbury withthe president’s son. At the Potomac bridge we stopped topay the toll, and the gate-keeper, after counting the companyand horses, received the money from the president,244and allowed us to pass on; but we had gone a very shortdistance, when we heard some one bawling after us, “Mr.President! Mr. President! you have given eleven-pencetoo little!” Presently the gate-keeper arrived out of breath,holding out the change he had received, and explaining themistake made. The president heard him attentively, re-examinedthe money, and agreed that he was right, andought to have another eleven-pence. Just as the presidentwas taking out his purse, the gate-keeper recognized GeneralLafayette in the carriage, and wished to return histoll, declaring that all gates and bridges were free to thenation’s guest. Mr. Adams told him, that on this occasionGeneral Lafayette travelled altogether privately, and not asthe nation’s guest, but simply as a friend of the president,and, therefore, was entitled to no exemption. With thisreasoning, our gate-keeper was satisfied, and received themoney. Thus, during his course of his voyages in theUnited States, the general was but once subjected to thecommon rule of paying, and it was exactly upon the dayin which he travelled with the chief magistrate; a circ*mstancewhich, probably in every other country, would haveconferred the privilege of passing free.

We did not reach Oak Hill until the morning after weleft Washington. We found the ex-president of the UnitedStates, now a farmer, pleasantly settled with all his family,in a handsome house near his farm. He was engaged insuperintending his agricultural affairs, and endeavouring toimprove his property, which had long been neglected forpublic business. Some of Mr. Monroe’s friends had collectedto assist him in entertaining Lafayette. We passedthree days in their company, and then the inhabitants ofLeesburg, a small adjacent village, came in company withthe Loudon county militia, to invite the presence of the nation’sguest at an entertainment prepared for him. Thepresident, ex-president, and chief justice of the UnitedStates, accompanied him, and received their share of popularattention; but it was easy to perceive that this homagewas inspired by the veneration of their virtues, rather thanby any titles which they possessed.

After the Leesburg and Loudon county festivals we tookleave of Mr. Monroe to return to Washington. Wishing tomake the journey in a single day, we set out very early, but245soon had cause to repent of this arrangement; about twoo’clock the heat became so oppressive, that one of Mr.Adams’s horses was struck down by apoplexy. The driverin vain attempted to save its life by copious blood-letting,and in a few minutes the animal expired in the ditch whereit had fallen. As soon as the accident happened, we allalighted to help the horse, but finding him dead, we tookseats on the grass until a waiter went to the nearest villagefor another horse. Travellers were passing us continually,and cast inquisitive glances upon our group, without oncesuspecting the presence of the first magistrate of the republic,or that of the adopted son of a great nation. Havingprocured another horse, we resumed our journey, butthe delay caused by this accident prevented our arrival atWashington until long after sunset, which prevented usvisiting the falls of Potomac, near to where we crossed theriver. Although these falls are of slight elevation, their effectis said to be very fine.

A few days afterwards we again left the capital to makea last tour in Virginia. On this occasion we visited Albemarle,Culpepper, Fauquier, Warrenton and Buckland.Although in all these towns the progress of Lafayette wasmarked by popular festivals, he could not avoid feelingpained by the recollection that in a few days he was aboutto leave, perhaps for ever, a country which contained somany objects of his affection. At Albemarle we were re-joinedby Mr. Monroe, whom we now found invested witha new public character. Faithful to the doctrine that acitizen should always be entirely at the service of his country,he did not think that his title of late president of therepublic withheld him from being useful to his countrymen;and he had therefore accepted the office of justice of thepeace, to which he had been elected by the confidence andsuffrages of the people of his county. Mr. Madison hadalso left his retreat and re-joined us on the road to Monticello,whither the general went to take leave of his oldfriend Jefferson, whose enfeebled health kept him at presentin a state of painful inaction. The meeting at Monticello,of three men, who, by their successive elevation tothe supreme magistracy of the state, had given to theircountry twenty-four years of prosperity and glory, and whostill offered it the example of private virtues, was a sufficiently246strong inducement to make us wish to stay there alonger time; but indispensable duties recalled GeneralLafayette to Washington, and he was obliged to take leaveof his friends. I shall not attempt to depict the sadnesswhich prevailed at this cruel separation, which had noneof the alleviation which is usually left by youth, for in thisinstance, the individuals who bade farewell, had all passedthrough a long career, and the immensity of the oceanwould still add to the difficulties of a reunion.

One of Mr. Adams’s first cares on attaining the head ofthe administration had been to decide General Lafayette toaccept the use of a public ship for his return to France.This vessel, built in Washington navy yard, was launchedabout the end of June, and was to be ready for sea by thebeginning of September, the time fixed upon by GeneralLafayette for his departure. “It is customary,” Mr. Adamswrote to him, “to designate our frigates by the names ofrivers of the United States; to conform to this custom, andmake it accord with the desire we have to perpetuate aname that recalls that glorious event of our revolutionarywar, in which you sealed with your blood your devotion toour principles, we have given the name of Brandywine tothe new frigate, to which we confide the honourable missionof returning you to the wishes of your country andfamily. The command of the Brandywine will be entrustedto one of the most distinguished officers of our navy,Captain Charles Morris, who has orders to land youunder the protection of our flag, in whatever European portyou please to designate.”

This invitation was too honourable, and made with toomuch delicacy, to be for an instant refused by General Lafayette;therefore he hastened to return to Washington toexpress his gratitude to the president, and concert withCaptain Morris the day of sailing, which was settled for the7th of September. When this determination became known,a great number of persons thronged from the neighbouringcities to take a last farewell of the nation’s guest; and allthe constituted authorities of the capital determined to takea solemn leave of him. From this time to the day of ourembarkation the general devoted his whole time to the dutiesof friendship, and in answering to the invitations of247various cities, which, for want of time and on account oftheir distance, he had been unable to visit.

The fame of Bolivar’s exploits in combating for theliberty and independence of the South American republics,at this time resounded through the United States, whosecitizens applauded with transport his republican patriotism,which then was free from all suspicion. Mr. Custis,the adopted son of Washington, whose ardent spirit is everready to sympathise with all that is great and generous,conceived the thought of presenting to the Liberator, as atestimonial of his admiration, a fine portrait of GeneralWashington, and a medal of pure gold, which had been decreedto the great citizen by the American nation, at thefestival of independence. He thought that these presents,although sufficiently precious on account of their origin,would acquire a still greater value by passing through thehands of the veteran of liberty in the two worlds, andGeneral Lafayette consented with pleasure to the requestmade him to be the organ of communication. On the 2dof September these presents were placed in the hands ofM. Villenilla, member of the Colombian Legation, with aletter for Bolivar, from Lafayette.

On the 6th of September, the anniversary of Lafayette’sbirth, the president gave a grand dinner, to which all thepublic officers, and numerous distinguished persons then inWashington, were invited. The company had already assembledand were about to sit down to table, when thearrival of a deputation from the city of New York was announced,which came to present to General Lafayette, onbehalf of the city council, a book containing an account ofall the transactions and events occurring during his stay inthat city. This magnificent volume, removed from its case,and exhibited to the company, excited general admiration.It is in fact a masterpiece that may be compared with themost beautiful and rich of those manuscripts which formedthe glory and reputation of libraries before the discoveryof printing. It contained fifty pages, each ornamented withvignettes designed and painted with the greatest skill;views and portraits perfectly executed, completed thiswork, of which the writing was done by Mr. Bragg, andthe paintings by Messrs. Burton, Inman, and Cummings.The view of the Capitol at Washington, of the City Hall of248New York, and the portraits of Washington, Lafayette, andHamilton, left nothing to be desired; and in order that thisbeautiful work should be altogether national, it was uponAmerican paper, and bound by Mr. Foster of New Yorkwith admirable richness and elegance.

General Lafayette gratefully accepted this fine present,to which the president and his cabinet gave additional valueby placing their signatures in it. Although a large companypartook of this dinner, and it was intended to celebrateLafayette’s birth-day, it was very serious, I may say,almost sad. We were all too much pre-occupied by theapproaching journey to be joyous: we already felt, by anticipation,the sorrowfulness of separation. Towards theconclusion of the repast, the president, contrary to diplomaticcustom, which forbids toasts at his table, arose andproposed the following: “To the 22d of February and 6thof September, birthdays of Washington and Lafayette.”Profoundly affected to find his name thus associated withWashington, the general expressed his thanks to the president,and gave this toast, “To the fourth of July, the birth-dayof liberty in both hemispheres.”

At last the day which we ardently wished for, andwhose approach, however, filled us with profound sadness,the day which would begin to convey us towards ourcountry, but must, at the same time, separate us from a nationwhich had so many claims to our admiration and affection,the day of our departure, the 7th of September, dawnedradiantly. The workshops were deserted, the storeswere left unopened, and the people crowded around thepresident’s mansion, while the militia were drawn up ina line on the road the nation’s guest was to move to theshore. The municipality collected about the general tooffer him the last homage and regrets of their fellow citizens.

At eleven o’clock he left his apartment, slowly passedthrough the crowd which silently pressed after him, andentered the principal vestibule of the presidential dwelling,where the president, surrounded by his cabinet, variouspublic officers, and principal citizens, had waited for hima few minutes. He took his place in the centre of thecircle which was formed on his approach; the doors wereopen, in order that the people who were assembled without249might observe what took place, and the slight murmurof regrets which were heard at first among the crowd, wassucceeded by a solemn and profound silence; the president,then visibly agitated by emotion, addressed him as follows,in the name of the American nation and government:—

“General Lafayette—It has been the good fortune ofmany of my distinguished fellow-citizens, during the course ofthe year now elapsed, upon your arrival at their respectiveplaces of abode, to greet you with the welcome of the nation.The less pleasing task now devolves upon me, on bidding you,in the name of the nation, adieu.

“It were no longer seasonable, and would be superfluous, torecapitulate the remarkable incidents of your early life—incidentswhich associated your name, fortunes and reputation, inimperishable connection with the independence and history ofthe North American Union.

“The part which you performed at that important juncture wasmarked with characters so peculiar, that, realizing the fairestfable of antiquity, its parallel could scarcely be found in theauthentic records of human history.

“You deliberately and perseveringly preferred toil, danger, theendurance of every hardship, and the privation of every comfort,in defence of a holy cause, to inglorious ease, and the allurementsof rank, affluence, and unrestrained youth, at the mostsplendid and fascinating court of Europe.

“That this choice was not less wise than magnanimous,the sanction of half a century, and the gratulations of unnumberedvoices, all unable to express the gratitude of the heartwith which your visit to this hemisphere has been welcomed,afford ample demonstration.

“When the contest of freedom, to which you had repaired asa voluntary champion, had closed, by the complete triumph ofher cause in this country of your adoption, you returned to fulfilthe duties of the philanthropist and patriot in the land of yournativity. There, in a consistent and undeviating career of fortyyears, you have maintained, through every vicissitude of alternatesuccess and disappointment, the same glorious cause towhich the first years of your active life had been devoted, theimprovement of the moral and political condition of man.

“Throughout that long succession of time, the people of theUnited States, for whom, and with whom you had fought thebattles of liberty, have been living in the full possession of itsfruits; one of the happiest among the family of nations. Spreading250in population; enlarging in territory; acting and sufferingaccording to the condition of their nature; and laying the foundationsof the greatest, and, we humbly hope, the most beneficentpower that ever regulated the concerns of man upon earth.

“In that lapse of forty years, the generation of men with whomyou co-operated in the conflict of arms, has nearly passed away.Of the general officers of the American army in that war, youalone survive. Of the sages who guided our councils; of thewarriors who met the foe in the field or upon the wave, withthe exception of a few, to whom unusual length of days has beenallotted by heaven, all now sleep with their fathers. A succeeding,and even a third generation, have arisen to take theirplaces; and their children’s children, while rising up to callthem blessed, have been taught by them, as well as admonishedby their own constant enjoyment of freedom, to include in everybenison upon their fathers, the name of him who came fromafar, with them and in their cause to conquer or to fall.

“The universal prevalence of these sentiments was signallymanifested by a resolution of congress, representing the wholepeople, and all the states of this Union, requesting the presidentof the United States to communicate to you the assurances ofgrateful and affectionate attachment of this government andpeople, and desiring that a national ship might be employed, atyour convenience, for your passage to the borders of your country.

“The invitation was transmitted to you by my venerable predecessor;himself bound to you by the strongest ties of personalfriendship, himself one of those whom the highest honours of hiscountry had rewarded for blood early shed in her cause, andfor a long life of devotion to her welfare. By him the servicesof a national ship were placed at your disposal. Your delicacypreferred a more private conveyance, and a full year has elapsedsince you landed upon our shores. It were scarcely an exaggerationto say, that it has been, to the people of the Union, ayear of uninterrupted festivity and enjoyment, inspired by yourpresence. You have traversed the twenty-four states of thisgreat confederacy: You have been received with rapture bythe survivors of your earliest companions in arms: You havebeen hailed as a long absent parent by their children, the menand women of the present age: And a rising generation, thehope of future time, in numbers surpassing the whole populationof that day when you fought at the head and by the side of theirforefathers, have vied with the scanty remnants of that hour oftrial, in acclamations of joy at beholding the face of him whomthey feel to be the common benefactor of all. You have heard251the mingled voices of the past, the present, and the future age,joining in one universal chorus of delight at your approach;and the shouts of unbidden thousands, which greeted your landingon the soil of freedom, have followed every step of yourway, and still resound, like the rushing of many waters, fromevery corner of our land.

“You are now about to return to the country of your birth, ofyour ancestors, of your posterity. The executive governmentof the Union, stimulated by the same feeling which had promptedthe congress to the designation of a national ship for your accommodationin coming hither, has destined the first service ofa frigate, recently launched at this metropolis, to the less welcome,but equally distinguished trust, of conveying you home.The name of the ship has added one more memorial to distantregions and to future ages, of a stream already memorable, atonce in the story of your sufferings and of our independence.

“The ship is now prepared for your reception, and equipped forsea. From the moment of her departure, the prayers of millionswill ascend to heaven that her passage may be prosperous,and your return to the bosom of your family as propitious toyour happiness, as your visit to this scene of your youthful gloryhas been to that of the American people.

“Go, then, our beloved friend—return to the land of brilliantgenius, of generous sentiment, of heroic valour; to that beautifulFrance, the nursing mother of the twelfth Louis, and thefourth Henry; to the native soil of Bayard and Coligni, of Turenneand Catinat, of Fenelon and D’Aguesseau. In thatillustrious catalogue of names which she claims as of her children,and with honest pride holds up to the admiration of othernations, the name of Lafayette has already for centuries beenenrolled. And it shall henceforth burnish into brighter fame;for if, in after days, a Frenchman shall be called to indicatethe character of his nation by that of one individual, during theage in which we live, the blood of lofty patriotism shall mantlein his cheek, the fire of conscious virtue shall sparkle in his eye,and he shall pronounce the name of Lafayette. Yet we, too,and our children, in life and after death, shall claim you for ourown. You are ours by that more than patriotic self-devotionwith which you flew to the aid of our fathers at the crisis of theirfate. Ours by that long series of years in which you havecherished us in your regard. Ours by that unshaken sentimentof gratitude for your services which is a precious portion of ourinheritance. Ours by that tie of love, stronger than death,252which has linked your name, for the endless ages of time, withthe name of Washington.

“At the painful moment of parting from you, we take comfortin the thought, that wherever you may be, to the last pulsationof your heart, our country will be ever present to your affections;and a cheering consolation assures us, that we are not called tosorrow most of all, that we shall see your face no more. Weshall indulge the pleasing anticipation of beholding our friendagain. In the mean time, speaking in the name of the wholepeople of the United States, and at a loss only for language togive utterance to that feeling of attachment with which theheart of the nation beats, as the heart of one man—I bid you areluctant and affectionate farewell.”

An approving murmur drowned the last words of Mr.Adams, and proved how deeply the auditors sympathisedwith the noble sentiments he had expressed in favour ofFrance, and her children whose whole life and recent triumphwould add still more to his glory and exaltation.General Lafayette, deeply affected with what he heard,was obliged to pause a few moments before he was ableto reply. At last, however, after having made an effort toregain his voice, he thus expressed himself:

“Amidst all my obligations to the general government, andparticularly to you, sir, its respected chief magistrate, I havemost thankfully to acknowledge the opportunity given me, at thissolemn and painful moment, to present the people of the UnitedStates with a parting tribute of profound, inexpressible gratitude.

“To have been, in the infant and critical days of these states,adopted by them as a favourite son, to have participated in thetoils and perils of our unspotted struggle for independence,freedom and equal rights, and in the foundation of the Americanera of a new social order, which has already pervaded this, andmust, for the dignity and happiness of mankind, successivelypervade every part of the other hemisphere, to have received atevery stage of the revolution, and during forty years after thatperiod, from the people of the United States, and their representativesat home and abroad, continual marks of their confidenceand kindness, has been the pride, the encouragement, thesupport of a long and eventful life.

“But how could I find words to acknowledge that series ofwelcomes, those unbounded and universal displays of public253affection, which have marked each step, each hour, of a twelve-months’progress through the twenty-four states, and which,while they overwhelm my heart with grateful delight, have mostsatisfactorily evinced the concurrence of the people in the kindtestimonies, in the immense favours bestowed on me by theseveral branches of their representatives, in every part and atthe central seat of the confederacy?

“Yet, gratifications still higher await me; in the wonders ofcreation and improvement that have met my enchanted eye, inthe unparalleled and self-felt happiness of the people, in theirrapid prosperity and insured security, public and private, in apractice of good order, the appendage of true freedom, and anational good sense, the final arbiter of all difficulties, I havehad proudly to recognise a result of the republican principles forwhich we have fought, and a glorious demonstration to the mosttimid and prejudiced minds, of the superiority, over degradingaristocracy or despotism, of popular institutions founded on theplain rights of man, and where the local rights of every sectionare preserved under a constitutional bond of union. The cherishingof that union between the states, as it has been the farewellentreaty of our great paternal Washington, and will everhave the dying prayer of every American patriot, so it has becomethe sacred pledge of the emancipation of the world, anobject in which I am happy to observe that the American people,while they give the animating example of successful freeinstitutions, in return for an evil entailed upon them by Europe,and of which a liberal and enlightened sense is every wheremore and more generally felt, show themselves every day moreanxiously interested.

“And now, sir, how can I do justice to my deep and livelyfeelings for the assurances, most peculiarly valued, of your esteemand friendship, for your so very kind references to old times, tomy beloved associates, to the vicissitudes of my life, for youraffecting picture of the blessings poured by the several generationsof the American people on the remaining days of a delightedveteran, for your affectionate remarks on this sad hourof separation, on the country of my birth, full, I can say, ofAmerican sympathies, on the hope so necessary to me of myseeing again the country that has designed, near a half centuryago, to call me hers? I shall content myself, refraining fromsuperfluous repetitions, at once, before you, sir, and this respectedcircle, to proclaim my cordial confirmation of every oneof the sentiments which I have had daily opportunities publiclyto utter, from the time when your venerable predecessor, my254old brother in arms and friend, transmitted to me the honourableinvitation of congress, to this day, when you, my dear sir, whosefriendly connection with me dates from your earliest youth, aregoing to consign me to the protection, across the Atlantic, ofthe heroic national flag, on board the splendid ship, the name ofwhich has been not the least flattering and kind among the numberlessfavours conferred upon me.

“God bless you, sir, and all who surround us. God blessthe American people, each of their states, and the federal government.Accept this patriotic farewell of an overflowingheart; such will be its last throb when it ceases to beat.”

In pronouncing these last words, General Lafayette felthis emotion to be rapidly increasing, and threw himselfinto the arms of the president, who mingled his tears withthose of the national guest, in repeating those heart-rendingwords, Adieu! Adieu! The spectators, overcome bythe same feelings, also shed tears and surrounded theirfriend, once more to take him by the hand. To abridgethis scene, which could not be suffered much longer, thegeneral retired for a short time into his own apartment,where Mrs. Adams surrounded by her daughters andnieces came to express their wishes and regrets. On theevening before, this lady, whose cultivated mind andamenity of character had greatly contributed to the pleasureof our visit to the president’s house, had presentedhim with a fine bust of her husband, and had added to thispresent a copy of verses in French, whose charm andelegance proved that this was not the first occasion inwhich her muse had spoken in our language.

Detained as if by a magic spell, General Lafayette couldnot make up his mind to leave his friends; a thousand pretextsseemed to retard the definitive moment of separation,but at last the first of the twenty-four guns, which announcedhis departure, having been heard, he again threwhimself into Mr. Adams’s arms, expressed to him his lastgood wishes for the American nation, and retired to hiscarriage. The president repeated the signal of adieu fromthe top of the steps, and at this sign the colours of thetroops which were drawn up before the president’s housewere bowed to the earth.

Accompanied by the secretaries of state, treasury, andnavy, the general proceeded to the banks of the Potomac,255where the steam-boat Mount Vernon was waiting for him.On a level above the river, were all the militia of Alexandria,Georgetown, and Washington, drawn up in solidcolumns, waiting to defile before the general. In advanceof the troops were the magistrates of the three cities, at thehead of their fellow citizens, to whom numbers of strangershad joined themselves. When the general arrivedat a point from whence he could embrace this scene at aglance, the family of General Washington and the principalofficers of government, ranged themselves around him,when all the different masses of men who had hithertobeen so motionless, moved on to the sound of artillery,and advanced melancholy and silent to receive his lastadieu. When the different corps had passed, the generaltook leave of all the friends that surrounded him, and wenton board of the Mount Vernon, with the secretary of thenavy and those officers of government who were to accompanyhim on board of the Brandywine.

During this time, the innumerable crowd which linedthe shores of the Potomac for a great distance, governed bya painful feeling of sorrow produced by his departure, remainedin the most profound silence; but when the steam-boathad pushed off with the object of their affections, theygave vent to a mournful cry, which, repeated from echo toecho, was finally mingled with the deep sound of the artilleryof fort Washington. A few moments afterwards wepassed Alexandria, and the general received the same marksof regret from the population of that city. But it was whenhe came in view of Mount Vernon, that he felt most deeplyaffected, and experienced the great sacrifice he made tohis country in leaving the American soil, that hospitable,land, where every step he made was accompanied withheartfelt recollections.

In a few hours we reached the Brandywine, which wasanchored at the mouth of the Potomac, where she onlyawaited our arrival to set sail. The general was receivedon board with the greatest honours, the yards were manned,the gunners at their posts, and the marines drawn up ondeck. Of the whole company that had attended us fromWashington, the secretary of the navy, Mr. Southard, alonewent on board the Brandywine with the general, to presentand recommend him to the care of Commodore Morris in256the name of the American nation and its government. Wehad experienced so many marks of kindness from Mr.Southard, that it was with real grief that we took leave ofhim. As soon as he had received our last farewells, hereturned on board the Mount Vernon, and our commandergave orders to weigh anchor; but at this moment anothersteam-boat appeared in sight, which apparently wished tospeak to us; we soon recognised her as the Constitution, whichhad arrived from Baltimore, carrying a great number of theinhabitants of that city, who desired once more to see GeneralLafayette, and to express to him the good wishes oftheir fellow-citizens, as well as their own. We experiencedgreat pleasure in observing among them a majority of thosewith whom we were most intimate in our different visitsto Baltimore. Their presence, at this time, in recalling toour minds the happy time we spent with them, made usforget, for a moment, that we had already left the Americansoil, perhaps for ever, and our illusion was prolonged untilthe evening gun announced that all communication betweenus must cease.

The night was now too far advanced to get under sail,and Commodore Morris waited till next day to weigh anchor.It was the 8th of December we entered the Chesapeakeunder full sail, traversing the centre of a brilliantrainbow, one of whose limbs appeared to rest on the Marylandshore, and the other on that of Virginia. Thus thesame sign that appeared in the heavens on the day on whichLafayette landed on the American soil, also appearedwhen he left it, as if nature had reserved to herselfthe erection of the first and the last of the numeroustriumphal arches dedicated to him during his extraordinaryjourney.[22]

The wind blowing brisk and favourable, we soon passedthe capes of Virginia, and were in a short time out at sea.It was then only that our captain, disengaged from the care257a difficult navigation, near the shore always induces, madeus more particularly acquainted with his officers and ournew abode. From the character of the former and commodiousarrangement of the latter, it was readily perceivedthat the American government had neglected nothing thatcould contribute to the safety or comfort of Lafayette’s returnto his own country. The captain announced to thegeneral, that the last instructions he had received from thepresident, was to put himself entirely at the general’s disposal,and to conduct him to any part of Europe that hemight designate, and to land him under the protection ofthe American flag; hence, that he must from that momentconsider himself as absolute master, and to be assured thathis orders would be executed with the greatest readiness.The general was deeply affected but not surprised at thisfresh instance of kindness in the American government, anddeclared to the captain, that the only use he should makeof these honourable prerogatives would be a passage toHavre. Two motives, added he, make me desirous of reenteringFrance by that city; my family will be there toreceive me, and my heart feels a strong desire to presentmyself, in the first instance, to those who received my farewellwith such kindness, when I last year left my country.

The wind blew so violently, that in forty-eight hours fromour leaving Chesapeake bay, we were in the Gulf stream,whose waves, opposed by the wind, made us experience allthe agonies of rolling and pitching horribly combined.Added to the sea-sickness which attacked nearly all of us,another source of anxiety arose. The frigate leaked withoutit being discovered at what place; the pumps, in spiteof their constant employment, could not keep the vesselclear, and some persons already regretted we were so farfrom the land, but our captain and his crew were not to beintimidated so easily. After a close examination of oursituation, Captain Morris was of opinion that the vessel wastoo deep in the water, and should be lighted; he thereforehad 32,000 weight of iron, part of his ballast, thrown overboard.This operation which was performed in a fewhours, remedied every inconvenience. The frigate beinglighter was in better trim, and in rising some inches moreabove the surface of the water, discovered the leak, whichwas just under the water-mark: from this moment the danger,258which had never been serious, entirely disappeared,and our voyage was accomplished without the slightestanxiety.

As the president had told the general, in offering him theuse of the Brandywine to carry him to France, we had forcommander one of the most distinguished officers in the Americannavy. During his youth, Captain Morris had distinguishedhimself in several engagements before Algiers, underthe command of Commodore Rogers. At a later period,during the last war with Great Britain, he had added to hisreputation, from his skill in manœuvring his vessel, in thepresence of an overwhelming force; and his comrades generallyattributed to him a great part of the glory of thevictory of the Constitution over the Guerriere, who, proudof her formidable artillery and the experience of her numerouscrew, had sent a challenge to any American vessel,that had the courage to meet her, and seemed to wait withimpatience for some one to accept her defiance, when theConstitution appeared and soon made her repent of herpresumption.

The officers who served under the orders of CaptainMorris, on board of the Brandywine, had also distinguishedthemselves in the last war, and each could boast of havingadded to the glory of the American navy, by his own gallantdeeds. I regret that I cannot record all their names, andsome of the actions by which they merited the gratitude oftheir country, and the esteem of their fellow-citizens; butsuch details would lead me far beyond all due bounds, andI hope that my silence will be taken rather as a proof ofmy incapacity to act as their historian, than as a proof ofmy indifference to men, whose society was so delightful tous, during a voyage which would have appeared very short,if we had not been returning to our own country.

The government of the United States has no theoreticalschool for her marine officers, but each national vessel,when going on service, receives on board a certain numberof midshipmen, and thus forms a practical school at littleexpense as to money, and attended with the happiest results.When it was rumoured, that the Brandywine was destinedto conduct Lafayette back to France, all those parentswho intended their children for the navy, were ambitiousto obtain them a birth on board of this frigate, and the259president found himself beset with petitions from all partsof the Union. Not being able to satisfy all, but at the sametime wishing to amalgamate, as much as possible, privateinterests with public good, he decided that each stateshould be represented by a midshipman, and hence theBrandywine had on board twenty-four, instead of eight orten, as is usual in vessels of her size. It was gratifying tothe general, thus to find himself surrounded by these youngrepresentatives of the republics he had visited with so muchpleasure, not only as their presence recalled spots he loved,but also as some of them, being sons of old revolutionarysoldiers, gave him an opportunity of speaking of his formercompanions in arms; and the young men, on theirpart, proud of the mission they were engaged in, endeavouredto render themselves worthy of it, by strict attention tostudy, and the performance of their duties. The paternalfriendship testified towards them by the general, during thevoyage, so completely gained their affection, that they couldnot separate from him without shedding tears. They beggedthat he would permit them, to offer him a durable markof their filial attachment, that would also recall to his mindthe days passed with them on board the Brandywine.[23]

The wind continued strong during the whole passage,but was very variable, thus rendering our voyage unpleasant.Nevertheless, in spite of their inconstancy, CaptainMorris found means to make us advance rapidly; and onthe 3d of October we arrived in sight of the coast of Havre,in twenty-four days after leaving the Chesapeake. Thispassage ought to be considered as very short, particularlywhen it is considered that it was our vessel’s first voyage,and consequently that she required to be studied withgreater care by those who navigated her.

260I will not speak of the feelings that agitated us at thesight of our country. There are few who have not experiencedthem on again seeing their native land, even aftera short absence; and to those who have never known thetorments of absence, or the sweet emotions of a return, Ifear that my words would appear exaggerated or ridiculous.

As there was a great swell, and the wind variable, thecaptain would not hazard the frigate by approaching toonear land in the night; he therefore sent one of his officersto Havre for a pilot, and stood off and on until his return.About midnight, a fishing boat boarded us, and brought letters,by which we learnt, that a great part of General Lafayette’sfamily, and numbers of his friends, among whomwas my father, had waited for us at Havre for several days,and would join us in a few hours.

It may be readily supposed, that such news kept usawake all night, expecting with impatience the return ofday, to restore us to our friends, our families, and our country.At six o’clock, the pilot being on board, he cautiouslyguided the vessel towards Havre, which we saw graduallybecoming more visible on the horizon. At three o’clockwe anchored, from the impossibility of approaching nearerwithout danger in a vessel the size of our frigate. CaptainMorris then fired a salute of twenty-four guns, which wasanswered from the fort a few moments afterwards. At 11o’clock, a steam-boat having boarded us, we experiencedthe happiness of seeing our friends.

We also received on board some citizens of Havre,among whom was M. de Laroche, who begged the generalto accept of lodgings in his house, as long as he should remainin the city. Mr. Beasley, American consul at Havre,was also among our visiters. Our captain and his officersreceived them with distinction, and showed them everypart of the frigate, whose beautiful proportions and admirableorder excited their admiration.

But the time rapidly passed, and the moment of separationfrom our fellow passengers arrived. It would be difficultto portray the expression of grief and regret that wasobservable on the faces of all on board, when they advancedfor the last time to bid farewell to him whom they hadso proudly conducted across the ocean. The officers surroundedhim for a long time, not being able to permit him261to depart. Their first lieutenant, Mr. Gregory, who hadbeen commissioned by them to express their sentiments,experienced so much emotion, that his voice faltered inpronouncing the first words; but, as if suddenly inspired,the young seaman sprung towards the national flag whichfloated at the stern of the vessel, rapidly detached it, andpresented it to the general, exclaiming, “We cannot confideit to more glorious keeping! Take it, dear general,may it for ever recall to you your alliance with the Americannation; may it also sometimes recall to your recollectionthose who will never forget the happiness they enjoyedof passing twenty-four days with you on board of theBrandywine; and in being displayed twice a year on thetowers of your hospitable dwelling, may it recall to yourneighbours the anniversary of two great epochs, whose influenceon the whole world is incalculable,—the birth ofWashington and the declaration of the independence ofour country.”

“I accept it with gratitude,” replied the general, “andI hope that, displayed from the most prominent part of myhouse at La Grange, it will always testify to all who maysee it, the kindness of the American nation towards itsadopted and devoted son. And I also hope, that whenyou or your fellow countrymen visit me, it will tell you,that at La Grange you are not on a foreign soil.”

At this moment, the noise of cannon and the huzzas ofthe sailors on the yards, prevented any further adieus, andwe went on board the steam-boat, whence we saw theBrandywine spread her sails, and leave us with the majestyof a floating fortress.

Captain Morris, who was to accompany the general toParis; Captain Reed, a distinguished officer of the Americannavy, charged with a scientific mission to Europe byhis government; and Mr. Somerville, envoy from theUnited States to the court of Sweden, left the Brandywinewith us; and this vessel, under the command of LieutenantGregory, sailed for the Mediterranean, to reinforce thesquadron there.

On his landing, General Lafayette perceived that thesentiments expressed towards him by the citizens of Havre,at his departure, had not changed, and he was much affectedat their warmth. As to the administration, it was what it262ought to have been the preceding year, that is, it permitteda free expression of public opinion, so that in his passagefrom the quay to Mr. de Laroche’s, the general had not thegrief of seeing his friends menaced by the sabres of thegens d’armes, or humiliated by the presence of foreigntroops.

General Lafayette ardently desired to see such of hischildren as could not come to meet him, and waited for himat La Grange, and he therefore decided on leaving Havrethe day after his arrival. His son embarked on the Seinewith his family and friends, to proceed to Rouen, where hewould wait for him, whilst, accompanied by Captain Morrisand the author of this journal, he went by land. Onleaving the suburb, his carriage was surrounded by alarge cavalcade of young men, who asked permission toaccompany him to some distance. After an hour’s march,the general stopped to thank his escort, who did not separatefrom him until they had expressed the most flatteringsentiments, through their young leader, Mr. Etesse, towhom his fellow citizens bad also this day given a proof oftheir esteem and friendship in placing themselves underhis orders.

On arriving at Rouen, we stopped at M. Cabanon’s, aworthy merchant, who has always been charged with theinterests of his department in the chamber of deputies,whenever his fellow citizens have been unshackled in theirchoice. As an old friend and colleague of the general, hehad insisted on his right of receiving at his table the guestof America, and had prepared him the pleasure of oncemore being seated with his family and a great number ofthe most distinguished citizens of the ancient capital ofNormandy. Towards the end of the dinner, some onecame to announce to the general that a crowd of personsin the street, accompanied by a band of musicians, wishedto salute him. He eagerly went out on the balcony to replyto this mark of esteem from the population of Rouen,but scarcely were the first acclamations heard, when detachmentsof the royal guard and gens d’armes appearedfrom the extremities of the street, who, without any previousnotice, began to disperse the crowd. The moderationwith which the royal guard executed the orders theyhad received from an imprudent and blind administration,263proved how repugnant they were to them, but the gensd’armerie, anxious to prove themselves the worthy instrumentsof the power that employed them, bravely chargedon the unarmed citizens, and were not to be checked bythe cries of the women and children overthrown by thehorses. A manufacturer of Bolbec, an elderly man ofRouen, and several other persons, were severely wounded.Many others were illegally and brutally arrested. Afterthese glorious exploits, the gens d’armes, being conquerors,waited for the appearance of General Lafayette, and, sabrein hand, accompanied the carriage to the hotel where wewere to spend the night. But here their success waschecked; young men stationed at the door forbid all entranceinto this asylum, where many of those who wereobliged to fly had taken refuge, and where General Lafayettecould receive, in peace, the feeling and honourablecongratulations of those citizens who wished, in spite ofthe interdict of those in authority, to testify the satisfactionthey felt at the return of a man, who by the triumphs decreedto him by a free nation had so much added to theglory of the French name.

This atrocious conduct of the magistrates and their servileinstruments afflicted us the more, from having a fewdays previous enjoyed the free expression of the feelingsand enthusiasm of the American people, and which in spiteof ourselves forced a comparison that was far from beingfavourable to our own country. The presence of CaptainMorris and some of his countrymen who had accompaniedhim to Paris, added still more to our sorrow and embarrassment.We seemed to read in their stern expression,the feelings they experienced in seeing a people once soenergetic in the cause of liberty, now timidly submitting tothe despotism of bayonets. As soon as I found an opportunityof speaking to them for a moment, I hastened to tellthem that they must not confound prudence and moderationwith weakness, which was here only so in appearance.That, in this instance, the citizens could not have supposedthat the local authorities would have been foolish enoughto oppose the expression of sentiments so inoffensive andnatural, and consequently no one had thought of makingpreparations for a resistance, whose necessity had not beenforeseen. Some young men who were near us overhearing264this conversation, added with warmth, “we hope our moderationwill not be misinterpreted by those who know us, andthat they will understand that we only submitted to be thusdriven back by some gens d’armes, because we wished to spareour friend General Lafayette the chagrin of being thecause of a greater disturbance.” The American officersapplauded the courage and delicacy of this feeling, andcomprehended that under other circ*mstances, the triumphof the police and its gens d’armes over the citizens of Rouenwould not be so easy.

The next morning, October 8th, the court of the hotelwas filled by young men on horseback, intended as an escortto the general as far as the first post-house. Their countenances,and some words I overheard, proved to me thatthey were full of the scene of the evening before, and werefirmly resolved that it should not be renewed with impunity.The posts of the infantry and gens d’armerie had been doubledduring the night, as if the day was to be productive of greatevents; but the magistracy confined itself to those ridiculousdemonstrations, and General Lafayette left the city inpeace, receiving on his way numerous testimonials of thegood wishes of the citizens.

At the end of the suburb, the escort was augmented bymore young horsem*n, who accompanied him to the firstrelay of horses, where they took leave of him, after havingpresented him with a crown of “Immortelles,” which waslaid in his carriage on the sword given him by the NewYork militia.

That evening we slept at St. Germain-en-Laye, and thenext day, October 9th, we arrived at La Grange, where,for the three last days, the neighbouring districts had beenoccupied in preparations for a fete on the arrival of one solong and ardently looked for.

At a certain distance from the house, the carriage stopped;and the general on descending from it, found himselfin the midst of a crowd, whose transports and joy wouldhave deceived a stranger, and led him to suppose that theywere all his children. The house was filled until evening,by the crowd, who only retired after having conducted thegeneral, by the light of illuminations and to the sound ofmusic, under a triumphal arch, bearing an inscription, inwhich they had dedicated to him the title of “friend of the265people.” There he again received the expressions of joyand happiness induced by his return.

The next day, the general was occupied in receiving theyoung girls who brought him flowers and chaunted coupletsin his honour, the company of the national guard of CourtPalais, and a deputation from the town of Rosay. Theinhabitants of the commune in offering a box of flowers totheir friend, congratulated him on his arrival through theirleader M. Fricotelle.

The following Sunday, the inhabitants of Rosay and itsenvirons gave the general a brilliant fete, the expenses ofwhich were defrayed by common subscription. The preparationswhich had required several days’ labour, were thework of the citizens, who did not wish to be aided by anymercenary hands. At five o’clock in the evening, morethan four thousand persons, many of whom had arrivedfrom a distance of some leagues, filled the apartments andcourts of La Grange, to salute him, whom all voices hailedas the friend of the people. At seven o’clock, a troop ofyoung girls marching at the head of the population of Rosay,presented a basket of flowers to the general, and chauntedsome simple and touching couplets; after which Mr. Vignepronounced in the name of the canton a discourse filledwith noble sentiments. After the general’s reply, whichwas received with transports of joy, he was conducted intriumph to the meadow, where an elegant tent had beenerected for him and his family. Illuminations artfully disposed,fire-works prepared by Ruggieri, animated dances,a great number of booths of all kinds, and a population ofupwards of six thousand persons, all contributed to recall toLafayette some of the brilliant scenes of his American triumph;and with the more truth, since he found so muchconformity in the feelings which dictated both.

The dancing lasted all night; the cries of “long live thepeople’s friend” were to be heard until the next day, whenLafayette, once more in the bosom of his family, enjoyedthat happiness and calm which only result from the recollectionof a well spent life.

1. Since our return to France, the general has received a similar boilerfrom Mr. Morris of Baltimore, which is now in use at La Grange.

2. This animal was a common seal, phoca vitulina, vulgarly called sea-dog.The sea-lion is another species of seal.—T.

4. This is a common but inaccurate saying; an oblique shot will certainlyglance from the skin of the alligator, but one striking perpendicularto the surface will as certainly penetrate, if within a proper distance.—T.

5. This is another very common and ancient error, which has beenrepeated from the days of Herodotus, who said it of the Egyptian crocodile,to the present. The deceptive appearance is produced by themanner in which the lower jaw is articulated; the joint being situatedvery far back, when the mouth is opened, casual observers easily mistakethe part actually moved. See the article Alligator, in the latelypublished Encyclopædia Americana.—T.

6. See the fable of the ass disguised in the lion’s skin, as related byÆsop, Phædrus, or Lafontaine, in explanation of this allusion. T.

7. See the excellent work of Captain Hugh M‘Call, published in 1811,entitled “The History of Georgia.”

8. In speaking of the morals of New Orleans, it is but just to discriminatebetween its permanent and fluctuating population. Being theonly mart to a vast extent of country, and the most frequented port onthe Gulf of Mexico, it always contains a large number of individuals ofthe rudest and most licentious class, who can scarcely be said to belongto any country, are certainly of no religion, and are of every shade ofcolour. It is therefore by no means surprising, that gamblers, brawlers,and stabbers, should be numerous where such a class abounds, moreespecially, as New Orleans tolerates, by license granted, numerous establishmentsopenly devoted to gambling and all its consequences.—T.

9. Since the establishment of steam navigation, boatmen rarely returnby land. They pay a trifle for a deck passage; find their own provisions,and aid the crew to bring wood, &c. on board, at the stoppingplaces.—T.

10. These geese, together with the Mexican hoccos presented by Mr.Duplantier; wild turkeys presented by Mr. Thousand, of Baltimore; Devonshirecows, given by Mr. Patterson; American partridges, presentedby Mr. Skinner, etc. at present ornament the farm of La Grange, whereGeneral Lafayette exerts himself to multiply their numbers.

12. The grizzly bear is unquestionably a ferocious and sanguinary animal,and is so much dreaded by the Indians and traders, that it is notsurprising they should give currency to endless fables and exaggerationsconcerning it. But we cannot avoid a feeling of surprise, mingled withsome mortification, to find respectable and intelligent travellers repeating,as actually true, statements of the habits of our animals, which avery slight effort of reason would show to be utterly absurd. Here wehave A BEAR, the largest species known, coursing after men in packs, andyelping like hounds! when we have not on record, evidence, perhaps,of more than thirty of these animals having been seen since the existenceof the species was discovered; nor the slightest evidence that anybear ever uttered any other sound than a low harsh growl!—T.

13. Since his return from America, General Lafayette has received ayoung grizzly bear from the Missouri, sent him by Governor Clark. Hehas presented it to the proprietors of the Jardin du Roi, who haveplaced it in the menagerie, where it may now be seen.

14. Another still more laborious mode of going up stream, was by extendinga long line from the bow, by which the crew, walking along themargin of the river, dragged the boat along. This is what is called cordelling,and when it is recollected how rugged and irregular the shoresof the western rivers are, and the necessity of carrying the cord clear oftrees, rocks, &c., a more painful and exhausting kind of labour canscarcely be imagined.—T.

15. Vevay wine is a perfect nondescript; in colour it slightly approachesthin claret; its taste is altogether peculiar; something like itmight be made by sweetening vin de grave with brown sugar. Nothingbut a strong effort of courtesy, however, can induce any one seriouslyto call it wine, unless the fact of its being made from grapes be sufficientto secure it this title. As to its being “the best of the winesmade in the United States,” we apprehend the author’s experience wasscarcely sufficient to make his opinion decisive. It is certainly farinferior to the best of our cider, in all the requisites of a pleasant beverage.—T.

16. The canal has been completed since this journal was written, andfully equals all anticipations.—T.

17. The territory of Vermont was at first part of the state of NewHampshire, from which it was separated in 1764, to be annexed to thatof New York. It was not until 1791, that Vermont was admitted intothe confederation as an independent state.

18. Professor List was condemned to ten years of hard literary labour,for having consented to be the organ of his fellow citizens to the king ofWirtemberg.

19. Among these was General Lallemand, who is too well known forme to eulogise him, and my two friends, my companions in arms, thebrothers Peregnet, who for a long time followed in Europe by honourablepersecutions, finally obtained in New York a safe asylum, where Americanhospitality has enabled them to obtain the means of living independently.The military academy which they have established upon themost extensive and liberal scale, already enjoys popular favour.

20. The wish of the Whitehallers is accomplished. The American Staris now at La Grange, placed with its oars and rudder under an elegantbuilding which the general has had built expressly to shelter it, worthyof the recollections it represents.

21. Courrier Français.

22. The day of our arrival at Staten Island, whilst the general was receivingthe congratulations of the people, from the balcony of the vicepresident’s house, a rainbow, one of whose limbs enveloped and tingedfort Lafayette with a thousand colours, appeared; the multitude, struckwith the beauty and opportuneness of this circ*mstance, exclaimed,“that heaven was in unison with America in celebrating the happy arrivalof the friend of the country.”

23. This present, which was received by General Lafayette a short timeafter his arrival at Paris, is a silver urn, of an antique form and beautifullyengraved. It rests on a base of the same metal, three of the facesof which are ornamented with exquisite sculptures, representing the capitolat Washington; the visit of Lafayette to the tomb of Washington,and the arrival of the Brandywine at Havre. On the fourth face isinscribed, in relief, the offering of the young midshipmen to their paternalfriend. This magnificent work was executed at Paris, under thedirection of Mr. Barnet, the American consul, who replied to the confidenceof the young seamen, with that zeal which he always displays, inevery thing relating to the glory of his country, or the interests of hisfellow-citizens.